I worked at a high-end custom mobile audio/ video retailer for 8 years, and I gotta say for it's build quality and purpose this is an awesome deal. Routered channels & dowel pins aren't usually found on inexpensive pre-fab boxes and often a $50-$80 enclosure won't be constructed of 3/4 MDF (). Obviously specific subs are made to operate in specific enclosure airspace, but one thing I know... I mean I KNOW... is that certain brands of subwoofers are much more forgiving in terms of performance in a pre-fab (JL Audio, you can't go wrong. NEW (not the older) Alpine Type-R subs too. I've sold JL 12" W3's, W6's, W7's, even W1's & 0's in *all* types of boxes- $2500 absolute show-quality digitally tuned and gel-coated enclosures that look like they belong in a museum, all the way down to some kid buying a pair of 12W1's for his sloppy homemade plywood "box"- They can generate sharp, clean bass in almost any environment.
On the other hand, a lot of ultra-expensive & power-hungry subs will sound like shit unless the airspace is dead-on. If you plan on spending $1000 per-sub, you had better be ready to pay someone ( me ) a lot of money to build you a proper custom enclosure. But dude, this is a great pre-fab for 30 damn dollars. Seriously.
-If any subwoofer is damaged by not being in the correct airspace, it is either: A.) A shitty product -or- B.) An expensive, ultra-specific design that shouldn't be in a pre-fab
-Here's a kickass tip for achieving great sound from a pre-fab like this one: OK, hopefully you did a smart thing & bought a quality VERSATILE & power-efficient sub (JL is the best example I know of), used some quality thick gauge speaker wire and gold connectors, and you're running it all with a decent (not Jensen) amplifier that is well-suited powerwise for your sub. Having done all this, BREAK IN THE SUB. Just like you would a new engine. You can even buy CD's made specifically to break in a new sub- each track plays a different frequency for 5-10 minutes, covering the whole spectrum of bass freq.'s. Otherwise just burn a mix CD with a bunch of songs, all with different styles & depths of bass.
-When you break in a sub, you DO NOT CRANK IT. Being a jackass and blasting "Boys N the Hood" full volume on your brand new sub will make it permanently sound like 99% of people's subwoofers- Distorted ghetto bass. Play your break-in CD at low volume for approx. 3hrs (collective, doesn't have to be all at once). After that, do not go above medium volume until your subs have logged in about 6 total hours. Gradually increase the volume each time you drive until patience and good judgement have brought you to the point where your stereo's bassing the fuck out. If it begins to distort, it's either too loud for your sub, your amp/ deck are not properly tuned, or your childish impatience caused you to say "fuck it" and you cranked your sub to full volume right away, even though you read this, and now you'll never experience the full capability of your brand new system which will probably sound like shit forever.
-Another common mistake: You should NEVER use the "extra bass" functions on your deck.
-The gain control on your amp should be turned up until the sub is performing nicely with your deck's bass control set at zero. Turn the amp's crossover frequency (in English) to a low enough setting (typically a bit below the half mark) until NO vocals/instruments/higher frequencies are audible from the sub.
-Also: (Unless you have a downfiring enclosure) The sub box should face backward in your trunk. This allows more distance for the soundwaves to travel- Bass actually becomes more audible when there's a little distance between the listener and the source. And bass is non-directional, so facing it away will never detract from it's power and in fact will sound much better for the reasons stated above. If you're having a custom box built, I usually recommend a down-firing (subs face down) and sealed enclosure. I like sealed boxes for their sharp, percussive characteristics and their ability to produce a wider range of bass pitch. And a down-firing box really sends a violent force through the chassis that'll let you FEEL the power of a good system.
-The cables can make or break the system. Thin/ damaged/ old/ shitty power & ground cables will totally rob a good amp of it's power. Use at LEAST 8 gauge cable for any amplifier. A big & powerful amp needs 4 gauge without a question, and 1 gauge is better (and totally necessary for REALLY powerful amps). The RCA's connecting your deck to the amp: Don't skimp. Even if you're spending $200 just to add a basic sub & amp, DO NOT use Radio Shack RCA's or some random set lying around your house. Go to any car audio retailer and buy some decent car-specific RCA's- and if you're running a more powerful system, buy the more expensive & higher quality set (I like Monster Cable's selection). Yes, they make a big, big difference. Regular shitty RCA's are poorly shielded and will almost certainly pick up engine noise & other interference. The cheap wire inside and the generic steel connectors transmit a poor, weak signal with loss of voltage between the deck & amp. Better RCA's for car audio have multiple layers of shielding, braided copper wires and 24k gold connectors made for prime signal transmission without interference from outside sources. Get 'em.
-This post is mainly focusing on subwoofer applications, but (perhaps more importantly) use the same sensibility in building the front stage (cabin speakers & amps; mids and tweets). Inexpensive can still be impressive.
*Ghetto tip: Some people seem to think that when it comes to speakers, more is always better. As in, more speakers. I had a customer come in to buy a pair of 7" screens for his 1990 Chevy Caprice... This dude, who was just dying to show me his system, had about 8 pairs of various size and brand speakers mounted in the doors, rear deck, some sloppy cutouts... and most notably, at least 12 pairs of tweeters not just on the doors, he had actually mounted some to the floors and the ceiling.
Now I seriously had to know what was in that trunk. Just for storytelling purposes. So he opened it up for me, and there I stood looking at the only swap meet I have ever seen going on in someone's trunk. Kraco amps, Power Acoustik amps, Kenwood amps from the 80's, Jensen amps the size of a DVD case that said "1500 watts"... EQ's, home audio equipment, bundles of wires, I think I saw a Flux-Capacitor ? All this shit sort of stole the show from the subs, which were also a rare treat. This k00k was collecting sub boxes, I'm not kidding- a pair of 15" some-brand-I'd-never-heard-of's in one bandpass box, a single Rockford 10" in a different (plywood?) box, and 2 (two) Bazooka bass tubes!
I'm quoting him, I'll never forget when he said "yeah it's pretty messy but it sounds awesome". Then he went on to explain to me how having different size subs together produces a much broader range of bass frequency! (FYI, and it's perfectly understandable if you didn't know that, but that isn't correct. What matters is that you didn't do it.) You see, the guy explained, it works just like a 3-way speaker: woofer, midrange, and tweeter! ....Except with bass! I didn't want to burst his bubble, seeing how much time and effort he put into it so I gave it the thumbs up. I mean, it was really loud, but not in the good way; more like the 'being raped in the ear-hole' way... The point is, don't do that.
No matter how basic or full-custom and whatever price range you're dealing with, the result should sound good and clean. As with everything else in life, what matters is that you do it the right way.
^that's a quality post right there. Do you have experience with ID8 subs (version 3)? I got a set in some JL stealthboxes and even after some tuning they're really punchy subs. Maybe that's because I'm coming from two 10" type Rs (new ones) and am not used to it.
Unfortunately I don't know those subs too well from personal experience, but from what I've gathered speaking to others they are like you said, more percussion than boom. That's not a bad thing at all- sharp bass is (generally) quick response. Any bass delay in a well-connected, well-amplified system is the subwoofers' shortcoming. It's more likely to happen in a "big boom" sub setup, or lower-quality speakers.
The JL Stealthboxes are awesome, in any car-specific design. They tend to be low-volume air space and tuned specifically for JL (W0/W1/W3) subs, although the Type-R's work really well, being of similar design. Since I don't know much about Image Dynamics, I've got no idea how well they would perform in a Stealthbox. (I swear I'm not a JL rep!) But I do know JL subs would be ideal for that box.
I'm curious what size subs you're using, still two 10's? Or is this a whole new system w/ new size speakers? Moving to smaller subs could account for the more percussive sound...
If they're new, break them in properly!!! If it's too late, honestly (or dishonestly?) I'd try to return them as "defective", or use the warranty- just blow the speaker before you send it back. I'm sure you can figure out how to do this. It's pretty fun too!
If you haven't tried this already, try dialing down your (sub) crossover a bit. Allowing higher frequencies to pass through a sub (especially in a sealed enclosure, like the Stealthboxes) can impair it's ability to make the wide excursions that produce low bass.
Oh, I have one more tip for everyone with an amplified sound system:
DYNAMAT!
Dynamat the shit out of your car if you can. That stuff is magic. Everything will sound twice as awesome (inside and outside the car) and no rattles or buzzes.
* You should also get a screwdriver and go through the entirety of your car, tightening every screw you can. This is especially important in the trunk area- and the license plate. I Dynamatted behind the plate & used rubber grommets in the screws between the plate, plate frame, and the car body. If you can't afford to Dynamat right away, you can just use thick cardboard or even a folded rag behind the plate to prevent rattle.
I hope this helps!
I found a site that has those Blaupunkt boxes for $19.95. I'm new to this site, am I allowed to post links?
ok cool, I didn't want to disrespect, I own a forum myself (NYC nightlife) so I just wanted to make sure.
Here is the link to a 12 inch Blaupunkt box: http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046
$19.95 plus shipping.
I wish I saw this post a few days ago before I got the Infinity Basslink, I probably would of went this route, was always a fan of Blaupunkt since I started getting into car systems in the 80's.
'06 SMG Coupe, Carbon Black/Cinnamon, Premium, Cold Weather & Nav Packages, Power Sunshade.
Mods: OEM ZCP's, 3M Clear Bra on all leading surfaces, Clear Reflectors, MTec Aluminum Pedals, 3M 35% Tint, Hardwired V1, Focal K2P's, Alpine PDX 5
he joints are routered and have adhesive tape on them so all you have to do is line up the numbers and fold the box together.
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Orlando Carpet cleaning
great writeup might consider doing this
This one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/BLAUPUNKT-GTb-30...9990%26ps%3D54
$25 shipped.
I usually like to build my own sub boxes, but I'm also incredibly lazy. This looks perfect for a cheap setup.
*edit*
I was curious, so I bought one. It arrived a few days later - fully assembled. The Blaupunkt label is different than the one in the first post, it only has single terminals on the side, and the subwoofer cutout is recessed.
Sounds good right? The only problem is that my sub (12" Polk) would not fit into the recess. I might just make a spacer to drop into the recess that would make the sub mount on the surface. It's not ideal, but I think the easiest way to make it work.
Last edited by xr4tic; 05-26-2011 at 07:36 PM.
2001 BMW M5
1991 VW Jetta
1997 Audi A4
[IMG]http://johnbaas.******.org/latest/sig2.jpg[/IMG]
The original box on here is no longer available.
Is there anything similar to this anywhere?
1989 BMW 525i - Automatic
Alpine 9847 Headunit - Alpine Type S Components - Alpine MRP-F250 Amp - Two JL Audio 12w0 - JL Audio e4300 Amp - DDM 55w-6000k HID
Dig it
i have read this post it is all about the car audio it is very interested post and all the audio devices use in the post are really attractive Free Gay Videos
in this era the audio in the car is must for the entertainment while we drive
Last edited by johnpetter97; 10-22-2011 at 08:13 AM.
Interesting thread. I'm learning lots!
that's really is impressive and amazing thanks .
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Cash For Cars in NJ
Brilliant!
Heres another idea for an enclosure. I put this together in about 3 or 4 hours. Holla if you need the specs
All subwoofers should have a box built to their specifications. Some use a port, some are sealed enclosures, it all depends on the actual woofer. A box too big or too small can cause the woofer to either "cook" or just sound bad. Here's a link to enclosures:
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp
sorry if I'm breaking rules by posting a link, I'm a newb. But I used to be a high-end car audio guy a hundred years ago. Luckily the laws of physics don't change... much...
Thanks for your hard work [IMG]http://www.**********.info/7.jpg[/IMG]
Last edited by Struble2010; 02-29-2012 at 09:44 PM.
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