DIY: Sportswagon Glass hatch lock testing and repair.

[dworthy]

Hello fellow wagon owners, so about a week ago, my glass hatch quit opening, the key nor the button on the glass would work. So this led me to believe that I had a problem with the wiring harness where it goes into the body from the hatch. First I checked the fuse to ensure they are intact, Fuse #58 7.5 amp was just fine, so no shorted wire. So I opened the plastic cover to be able to access the wiring harness to confirm that it is a wiring problem. What I found out is that the lock had failed, and the wiring was intact.

Wiring Diagram: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...button/f4A42YJ
So when you are testing the wiring, you will get odd results as it "grounds" what you would think is the power wire #4 Brown/Red strip at the lock when you hit the glass button. The #3 brown is the ground provided to the lock, and you will have two other wires, don't worry about them at this time.

These are the tools I used for the hatch:
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Flat-tipped and cross tipped screwdriver, pick, a 1/4 ratchet with extension for the T-30 and E-6 socket. The Multimeter is used for checking the wire integrity.
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So below is how you can open the glass without damaging the lock or any of the plastic surround.

First you will need to remove the inner carpet, thee will be 3 "tabs" that will have to be released left, center, and right.

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Now remove the lamp, always take it from the red end, for the other end will break the tabs, and be sure to unhook it. I replaced the bulb with a 43mm LED lamp, less power and heat, and it updates the look of the car IMO.
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More in the next post.

[dworthy]

Next you will need to remove the latch cover:

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Now we have to punch the plastic holders out, an awl or similar will work just fine. Remember later that you will need to fish the center pieces out again.

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Next use a pry tool to remove them.

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You will need to remove the latch using a T-30, for you cannot lift the plastic cover over it. The silver piece will get loose, so be sure to catch it.
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Once the latch is remove, now it's time to take out the cross-tipped or Philips head screws which are circled in red. The yellow circle are the plastic pop rivets, that hold the panel in place, you will need to release them after all the screws are out.

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Now we can pull the plastic panel down so we have access to the lock and wiring. CAUTION!!!! Do not pull down too hard, for you will break the panel.
What I did to make it easier to access, for the trunk shocks put it up way too high for me, was to remove one of the shocks and bring the hatch down to make is easier to access. There is a metal clip on the end that locks it on to the stud, just use a flat tip in the slot to make it loose.

Continued in next post.

[dworthy]

I then moved it down to the rubber stop for the hatch. Just as an FYI, if your struts are old, and saggy, you can replace them with the ones from an E-90, they fit perfect and have more spring.
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Now the hatch is at a more manageable height:
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Now we will use the manual release on the glass so we can get the last 2 screws out.

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There is an oval slot where you will need to use a straight pick. After inserting the pick in the slot, move it up towards the glass to get the latch to release:
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Once the glass is open, you have to remove this cover, again using a plastic pry tool:
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Continued in the next post below.

[dworthy]

Now we can access the last 2 screws holding the cover in place:

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Once that cover is away, we can take a look at the wiring. In my case it was the lock itself bad, so I replace it. The bolts are T-30's and no lock tight.
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And of course as the saying goes, do everything in reverse to get it back together. Now for adjusting the latch on the hatch, you will need an E-6:
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Just as an FYI, you will be doing everything backwards, so left is tight, right is loose. Be sure to push in a bit so you know the hatch is contacting the rubber. Even after it is completely tight, be sure to open and close the hatch so you know it is properly adjusted.
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Now for those whom have a good fuse, and it isn't getting power to the latch, this is how you find the relay:

First you will need to remove the glove box. These can be tricky, so be sure to have some needle nose pliers to be able to pull them out the rest of the way.
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Lets remove the plastic pins holding the straps, and then close the box to remove the 4 philips screws holding the box in place on the underside. It will be a black square plastic piece, as the screws are black as well, maybe hard to see/find.

More in the next post.

[dworthy]

Once the box is out of the way, you will have to remove the plastic surround, there will be 6 Philips head screws. Now be sure to exercise caution, for the fuse box is right above and live power.

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Next will be the wiring for the lamp and the hand held light. You can also leave it in place and just set the cover down on the floor instead.
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Now behind that you will see another plastic cover, removing it will just make it easier, again you can leave this in place if you have small hands. If you do remove it, pay close attention as there is a hook on the inner side towards the transmission tunnel, you will need to push the cover back towards the firewall first.

So the relay is located in the electronic rack, just look for the 3 wires:
The brown with red strip is the same to the rear at the #4 in the connector.
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And of course there are two tabs on the side, that you have to compress in to get the relay down. Typically I don't see too many relays going bad, so I didn't replace mine anyway.

So that's it, just install in reverse of removal.