Not sure who's interested or not but here goes. This is for i6 cars 01 and newer.
One of the biggest problems plaguing gas mileage with our auto's is of course vacuum leaks. Aside from normal checking of your vac lines for tears and small holes you might want to try the following.
I have been noticing that there were many talking about how the DISA valves on the 01 and newer engines were not sealing as well as the earlier models. I bought a sheet of rubberized gasket paper from Auto Zone a few weeks ago. I then took my disa valve off and measured the area and cut with a Xacto knife two gaskets to fit neatly between the valve and the intake when tightened back down.
After doing that gasket I also removed the throttle body and cut another gasket for that part as well. While having all that down I cleaned the idle control valve and where it goes back into the intake, I wrapped a couple of layers of electrical tape on the part of the idle valve that goes back into the intake for a better seal.
When buttoning everything back up I gave the gaskets and the taped area's a light coating of white lithium grease for a good seal.
I used to hear a slight whooosh when giving the car the gas to pull up in my driveway, that noise is now gone and the car feels to pull much better in the complete rpm range.
I have also noticed better mileage around town driving.
Not sure which part was helped most by the above-but I feel that it did make a difference. The following link will give a complete list of where to find vac leaks on the I6 cars
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...t=vacuum+leaks
Last edited by Poolman; 05-06-2014 at 08:32 AM.
Can you provide pictures of the DISA valves please. This may be the solution I'm looking for. Thank You
Last edited by 530 Sport; 09-14-2008 at 03:18 PM.
I know, I know, but they make me smile!
Same here. Not sure what DISA valves are?
this is very interesting, do you have any pics?
I'm sorry I don't have any pic's but I'll try to discribe the part
The Disa valve is also called the adjuster unit--it looks like a rectangle box located on the top right side of the intake manifold. It's held on by two torx screws--it's function is to redirect air through the intake manifold when rpm's hit 3k--helps in power.
I pulled my DISA valve yesterday, put a small bead of red gasket maker on top of the exisiting "O-ring" type of gasket that was already there, put it all back together and my high pitched whistling sound went away. Not to mention, my car seems to have found some missing low end power. Best 20 minute fix I have done to date.
I know, I know, but they make me smile!
Here is a picture courtesy of Gumbi.
I know, I know, but they make me smile!
Great find, got to love it those easy fixes.
I would advise all with this DISA valve to try either of the two tricks listed above and along with that the electrical tape on the part of the idle control valve that goes back into the intake--that rubber nipple that the icv goes back into can suck air--the tape helps seal that much better---worked for me
If you go the route of putting the small bead of sealent around the base of the DISA Valve--let it set up about 20 min before doing the reinstall and also spray a little WD40 on the mating surface also--makes sure they don't bond together and you can take it all back apart some day.
Defaz--your model DISA valve I belive it has a gasket or 0 ring to prevent any vacuum from escaping--I may be wrong tough--sometimes I am
Thanks Poolman. Great info. I have inserted your find in this post under Vacuum Leak fixes for i6 engines (DIY section). Hope you don't mind
wow i hear the same thing... im def doing this !!
Thanks Doro for the interest--while your bringing more to the DIY section might I suggest the post a few days back where one of our members took pics of how to remove the i6 oil filter and repair the gaskets underneath--was quite a good DIY
write up in my opinioun---wanted to insert it myself but don't know how--it was written by a BMW tech thats a member here.
When removing the DISA valve--remove the upper and lower torx bolts and then pull the unit back away from the engine--it sorta slides out away from the intake when removing it.
Last edited by Poolman; 09-15-2008 at 05:43 PM.
Doru--Check out this DIY --I certainly think it needs to be added to your list--
bet a number of us do---by the way--whats the quick way to get to that link
when first coming on?
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1070662
Sorry for being late with my answer (I am a coach too, and was quite busy yesterday after work - tryouts)
So, this one was added when it was posted a few weeks back. Here is the path:
the VERY best of E39 Links / Page2 /Post #31.
Look in the DIY section, look up Oil: Oil filter housing Seal replacement DIY.
I tried to make it as easy to find as possible. Also, the 10th link in DIY section named: Automotive Repair Library, has an unbelievable amount of excellent info, which can be used on any vehicle.
Thanks for the good work--lots of good info
Hey Jason--yes I have my new OEM Maf on--I'm not sure if it's helped or not as of yet--You won't believe it but I just found a new spot for a vac leak just now and I'm excited about this find--more than whats posted above.
Under the cover on top of the engine hiding the injectors and all--there is a latice
looking part that runs to the top of the intake and goes to each runner--thats the
runners that bring what ever blow by thats coming thru the engine back into the manifold to be consumed by the engine. There are plastic tubes coming from the oil seperator to this part.
Now with the cover off I noticed that there are little tubes coming off of this part going down into the top of the intake manifold--one at each runner. I presume there
is a rubber 0 ring on each part to seal it all from vac leaks. I got the idea to take a straw and fill it with water and let the water drain into each area around where the tubes fit into the intake. With water filling the crevise around each of these little tubes
I cranked the car--on each and every tube the water sat there just as I had filled
the area. On the very back though I noticed that there wasn't any water sitting
on top. I cut off the engine got my straw out again and tried to fill the back part again with water--it wouldn't fill --water just drained down into the intake there.
Thats a vac leak for sure--now I gotta figure out how to seal it.---This also means that that back cylinder is most likely running a little lean at times.
I'm thinking of just using some sensor safe blue Perma tex gasket silicone around that one post thats leaking---hhhhmmmmm
Just figured out why it's leaking there and no where else--the wires and all going to the injectors are anchored there on that last post by a plastic stay clip--it's being pulled on and that tension or torque has put stress there on that lone section and caused the leak.
Last edited by Poolman; 09-18-2008 at 06:36 PM.
I'm going to make a GUESS at this. See the yellow part, circled? The leak would be on the similar item, at the back of the engine. Red arrow points to it.
Photo courtesy Beisan Systems, and borrowed without permission... by a happy customer
Poolman -- was I close?
Last edited by cpatstone; 09-18-2008 at 08:04 PM.
Cpatstone---you have beat me to the pic--if I even knew how---thats the very place that I'm talking about---I have filled that spot with silicone(sensor safe) and now when the car is cold and I crank her--she idles really smooth--will wait till AM
to really see how this helps--have spent the last few hours with the most beautiful
woman(who I'm married to) drinking quite heavely--even she agrees--I'm a gifted guy.
Poolman
It's no brag--just fact
so vacuum leaks give the car that whoosh sound on acceleration? my car sounds like a friggin air plane in low 1st gear!
Vac leaks rob you of gas mileage and power---vac leaks are bad OK
Oh my Poolman! Jest liv'er alone will ya!
Now I have some wrenchin' to do.
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