Headed to Buttonwillow Aug 15th-16th for the Histrionics 24hours of lemons!
A crack team of us (and by crack team i mean must be on crack as none of us are experienced wheel to wheel racers) are entering an 86 325e for the 24 hours of lemons at thunderhill this December. I can't attach the link yet (only 10 post ...insert sad face here as I can't use smiley's yet either)
We could use some help from the community (and some serious luck) to make this all happen and hopefully finish. I don't think we have a chance of anything over mid pack, but would be happy with the car rolling under its own power by the checker flag.
The car; 1986 325e, dead guibo, coolant leak, broken shifter, oil leak (minor) tranny leak (turned out to be minor). We bought the car for $200 after we haggled this very sweet young lady to death (we may rot in hell for that one) down from $700 asking.
The good; Chassis looks straight, no accidents other than a minor front end fender bender. Great interior (we are allowed to sell whatever we will not need off the car to go toward the $500 budget) Good exterior panels (we will be trading them for people's dented ones + cash), strong motor...lays rubber down pretty well. There was some stuff in the trunk we can sell (new radio - never installed, jumper cables, and a car vac also a jug of water though that went into the radiator and sprayed out shortly before making it home)
What we will need:
People to buy most of our interior parts...they are all in good condition with exception of the dash(cracked in 4 spots), the drivers door pocket on the door panel is mising) and the lower part of the vinyl drivers seat (all seats are pleather). call your dibs and prices you can pay for stuff you need. Oh yeah glovebox is gone...looks like someone tore it off. Be ready to overpay we need every dollar (just kidding but please no low balls).
People to sell us performance stuff REALLY CHEAP.... we need some good used high rate springs, and used shocks with life in them, maybe a sway bar or even suggestions on getting sways. We should have a budget of $250-300 for the suspension after selling everything off. We will be printing everyones name on the left rear corner of the car (most likely side get slammed by other competitors) that contributes by buying a part or selling us something for a rockin deal People exceptionally good to us will get a GOLD STAR next their name!
Your suggestions: good cheap mods to make us fast and reliable...keep ideas coming.
We will be posting updates and pics of all stages of the project. We will hopefully be videotaping in car at the time of the event (if my wife to be will let me risk the life of our video cam).
Thanks all!
Last edited by 2wheelsoff; 07-08-2009 at 03:54 PM. Reason: update
awesome.. build thread pls with plenty of pics!
'91 SpecE30 #523
'12 F30 328i Sport Line
'00 F-350 Dually
BMWCCA #360858 NASA # 128290
https://www.facebook.com/COTABBR
you ought seek out your local kart track and pull a couple of the Sr. Rotax guys in as ringers for driver swaps (kart racers seem to have the edge on wheel to wheel racing, especially those who run road course )
wow this is a crazy idea... i love it...GL!!
save your $$$ - don't buy springs. Make sure you have good shocks/struts, i.e.- not completely blown out, and you'll be fine. Same for the sways.
Make sure the wheel bearings are OK, or change them or at least bring spares, same with the fuel pumps- make sure they're both working, and bring spares if you can find them.
Other than that, spend your time and $$$ on getting the car reliable- it's a long race and a bone stock 325e is as good or better than most of the cars that will be racing- but you've got to be running at the end in order to win.
We ran a 325e at LeMons South in SC this summer and it was a blast. We finished 5th overall, and got the 1st place german car medals. We did not prep the car as well as we could/should have and we still did well. The key is to stay out of trouble, do NOT put yourself in a position where you get black flagged and spend time in the pits- they are very strict about car to car contact and reckless driving. Just take it smooth and steady and have fun!!!
I've got some eibach springs on my DD that I am tired of, there yours cheap can't pull them just yet. I can also fly over and drive if you need another
Subscribed. Some friends and I are considering a build for an event like this next year.
Good luck.
1989 635CSi Alpinewieß
1989 325iC Alpineweiß II
1985 745i Cosmosblau / Pacificblau cloth
1995 525iT S50 / 5 speed Alpineweiß III
1985 635i Cosmosblau
1998.5 M3 Technoviolent
1990 325iC
1999 528i
Rigmaster - Thanks for the suggestion! Our strategy is to let the battles play out in front of us and anyone wanting to pass we'll let by.
Moberg12 - Let us know when you are ready to remove the springs...we would be happy to take them off your hands. We have 5 drivers and 2 extra crew peeps thus far...I will keep you posted if you need an alternate. The down side is we have to get up there christmas day (testing/practice) is the 26th.
Aardy54 - good suggestion, but kart drivers...those dudes are SICK!!!! They drive hard and competitive....we want to make through the whole race incident free (some bumps may be innevitable). Please ingore the gross generalization, as there are exceptions I'm sure.
kishq and Itflint - thanks for the support will be adding pics once my posts are over 15, have started photobucket file for this project.
Here are pics.
The car is straight which rocks, and the interior parts are good too! The stuff in the box is the AC components... they all look good, and when we removed them the seals were solid. The AC did not work, but I think it is the radiator had a leak as it was bent a bit from what looks like a slow front end wedgie inder an suv or semi.
Here is the link to the pic file too!
http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/i...fBMW/E30lemon/
Last edited by 2wheelsoff; 09-05-2008 at 03:10 PM. Reason: links messy..all fixed
i'd make that car look a lot crappier than it does now to pass the BS test
'91 SpecE30 #523
'12 F30 328i Sport Line
'00 F-350 Dually
BMWCCA #360858 NASA # 128290
https://www.facebook.com/COTABBR
Thanks! I hope they will realize it was a true lemon... we have put it about 10 hrs so far and need another 20 or so just to get it to drive.
This is after day 1 of working stuff out. Who the heck makes you remove the fuel rail to get to the thermostat housing?????
I'm still shopping for a car for THill LeMons. Assuming I find a car and cobble together a team, I'll see you there
Any suggestions on Wheel/tires? ... we have 14 inch on the car now, but thinking the option for 14'sis pretty slim. 15 inch wheels are still light, but most tires are limited to 205's. Do 16's get too heavy?
The rules (http://www.24hoursoflemons.com/rules/) allow wheels and tires to be outside the budget, so we are pretty flexible with exception to having to actually pay for everything. Tires HAVE TO BE HIGHER THAN 190 rating!!! so no stickies, or even re-040
We ran some new Falken Azenis' on stock 14" bottlecaps. They worked great and still have some rubber left after 2 days of racing. Highly recommend them.
Don't make a problem where there is none or you'll drive yourself (and the rest of your teammates) crazy, not to mention waste alot of time on stuff that just doesnt' matter. Why do you say the options for 14" tires is limited?????
Limited - 14 inch:
Ventus Rs-2 or Azenis 615's in 195/60-14
15 inch:
RS-2, 615, KDW, PS2 exalto's, all in 205/50-15, RS-2 are also available in 215 or 225
How much is your team's total expected budget for the car+race+registration+gas?
well...there is also safety equipment (rollbar, fuel cell, halon system), then tires and wheels and brakes, then the tow up, and hotel + food for 3 days all not in the $500 budget, so we are estimating $2000-2500, and we are 4 commited drivers. If the car survives the weekend we may turn this into a specE30, so it will offset the cost of the race if it can last a couple seasons.
Most LeMons cars run the RT615s.
If you really plan to run it in spec e30, mention that to the guy who's building your cage and get him a copy of the NASA cage specs. Re-caging a car is a big waste of time and money.
Suggestions:
Remove the engine fan to prevent a radiator or coolant hose from being cut/ruptured.
Consider getting aggressive with some wheel spacers...but only if your bearings are ok.
Bring extra control arms/calipers
Massage your way to as much negative front camber as possible.
Sell your catalytic converter to a scrap yard for $100.
Does it have a black vinyl interior? If so, does the rear seat back have the fold-down arm rest? lol
Oh and sweet project! I hope all goes well.
dibs on them sport seats if they get sold
BMW CCA:405006
Lazz and Mayhem - thanks for the suggestions...for the fan it has already been deleted. We will be wiring the auxilliary fan to run constantly when engine is on. suggestion on best way to masage neg camber? Shiatzu or hot stone? we are going with some M3 bushings as our are cracking, and are trying to source some used one in good shape. Rubber is fine, power flex or delrin is better.
BMWman91 - they are black vinyl in exceptional shape with exception of the lower part of the drivers seat which is torn up from being dried out. Passenger seat is like new. The rear is not the arm rest kind.
n thomas33 - We'll be ripping them out in a few weeks. cool they are yours, but may not be worth it to ship all the way to NJ, car is in CA. all other interior parts in in great shape too. The only thing missing is the glove box and the drivers door pocket on the lower part of the panel.
keep the posts coming , we can use any and all suggestions, donated parts, or just a bunch of good ol trash talk!
Last edited by 2wheelsoff; 09-10-2008 at 03:25 PM. Reason: forgot something
Mayhem - we are allowed to change the exhaust aft of the header/manifold without being in the 500 budget, so we will be scrapping the exhaust. Great suggestion about the catalyst. Do you think we could sell the whole exhaust for more? It is leak free.
I drive with no fan in my spec e30 and run an electric fan when needed with the AC button. The stock wiring will run the aux fan with the AC button. I vaguely recall there being a low and a high setting ... but I think I wired them together. Anyway, having a button to control the fan is nice, and the stock wiring is convenient.
You probably won't need the aux fan anyway. I'd make sure your heat works, heater core doesn't leak, and defroster works. It's gonna be cold
I'd keep the check panel if you haven't already stripped it out. It fits nicely in the hole in the dash where the radio should be.
Will have to check the heater... I am sure it was rearely used here in LA.
The defoger lights up, but not sure if it really works....though we are thinking of taking out the rear window to sell it, and put some plexi for all the rear glass. Haven't thought of fogging.
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