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Figures, the day after I list my E34 for sale the A/C quits. I took it into a shop, where they found the compressor was covered with oil and determined that was the source of the leak. They quoted me $800-$1000 for the repair, which is WAY out of my range. I got to talking with the owner and once he found out I was mechanically inclined he explained to me that the seals probably wore out and would need to be replaced, and suggested I either try that or get a used compressor and install it myself. I went on eBay when I got home and found this, which I purchased:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWN:IT&ih=021
I'm planning on installing it myself, and my dad has what it takes to evac the system, but I'm hoping someone can shed some light on the details (hopefully in a step by step manner). It should be noted, this was converted to r134a using one of the 'kits', which worked excellent for quite some time.
I've ordered the o-rings already. Do I need to fill the unit with oil? If so, how, what kind, etc.? Anything else I need to know?
Don of the E34 Mafia
I'd ask the seller.
They may be a shop and the compressor may include the PAG oil too.
Don't forget to pick up a new dryer
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Ah, thanks for the tip. I didn't know I needed a new dryer
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standard practice whenever you open the system to the outside air to get a new dryer.Originally Posted by Joey Link
Ah, thanks for the tip. I didn't know I needed a new dryer
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Anything else I need to replace?
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If the system is still sealed and has pressure and the drier was recently replaced in the prior conversion, it might still be OK - I'd be on it needing replacement. Since the oil is out of the compressor, you can't measure whats in it and add that much - so probably better to do the drier and add the full amount of oil. Ester oil is better than PAG for retrofits if there is any residue from the R12 operation - you might be OK as this is the second retrofit.
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Changing out the a/c compressor isnt to bad- I did this myself and saved so much money. You dont have to buy a new dryer like HausBimmer stated but I will list what you have to do:
Heres the reference pics:
PICTURE1
PICTURE2
1. You need to first let out all the refridgerent since its still in the system. This can be done by the two nozzles on the a/c pipping in the engine bay (PICTURE1-RED). Take the cap off the one close to you (outer one) and take a capturing device and clamp it on the nozzle and you will hear the refridgerent gas flow outward. Make sure that the gas is no longer flowing out (this will take a couple minutes).
2. Now you can unscrew the screws that are holding the a/c pipping in the compressor (there is one screw to each pipe by the compressor, PICTURE2-BLACK). pull the pipes out of the compressor.
3. Now its time to remove the compressor. Make sure to remove the a/c belt and while under the front of the car the compressor is held-on by I believe three screws that you will have to unscrew (PICTURE2-RED). Once unscrewed the compressor should just fall right out (make sure to put something foamy/ padding or something to catch the compressor since this unit is very heavy).
4. Now that the old compressor is out unscrew the bolts (four) that hold down the medal plate the pipes go into (PICTURE2-GREEN). On the new compressor the plate is there but no holes and thats b/c you take the plating off the old one and place it and bolt it down on the new one. So take the flat plate off the new one and put the old one on the new compressor (if need be depending on what you got).
5. Depending on if the wiring and plug are not there and on the new compressor- you might need to cut the wiring on the old compressor and sawder it to the wiring on the new one.
6. Now place the new compressor back up and screw it back into place (PICTURE2-RED).
7. Place the a/c pipping back into the compressor and screw them in place.
-----The system is now ready for pressure test/ making sure there is no air within the system, oil and refridgerent. This portion was done by my dads work friend whom is a chemical engineer and operates his own a/c company. He basically hooked up some kind of pressure device which eliminated air in the system. This was running for about 30min until it indicated that the system was ok and did not have any leaks or air in the system. He then hooked up a device which held the a/c oil and shot it into the system. Next he hooked up the actual refridgerent and put it into the system (the amount put into the system is 3.42 + or - 0.5lbs, this is stated on a green sticker in the very front of the engine bay). Once this was done I made sure all my a/c fuses where good and turned the a/c on and in a matter of seconds cold air came out and he watched and listened to the compressor and system and stated everything was good.
Heres a picture of my old compressor:
Hope this helps out and if you have any questions just PM me. My a/c runs great and cold and have yet to have any probelms.
Last edited by AZDinanE34; 08-15-2008 at 08:13 PM.
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Not to get all environmental and all but you do realize that this violates your EPA laws? Technically you need to have the refridgerant recovered to a suitable receptacle most commonly by an A/C repair shop. While R134a is not ozone depleting it has been designated as a contributor to greenhouse gasses. It is enough of a problem that Europe will ban it's use in vehicles by 2012 IIRC.
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Sorry, had no idea about this. If it where a problem I know that my dads friend would have mentioned that to me...
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No biggie, after all venting to the air was standard practice for nearly 40 years. I'm just over sensitive to stuff like this living in the environmental capitol of Canada. I have to sort my waste into 6 different recycling containers plus residual garbage.
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HCFCs are much less ozone depleting that CFCs - but still deplete the ozone layer. It is illegal to free vent CFCs and HCFCs, so I wouldn't advise putting your name next to it - just like those people who talk about cutting off their catalytic converters on a public forum.
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procedure changed and is the way it should be done.
Member
If you have a shock that tensions the belt, be extra careful with prying on it. I broke my tensioner by prying on it to install a new belt, so I was driving without A/C for a week until the new tensioner came in.
Vehicles:
(Sold) 95' 525 - ZF320 5-speed swap, 3.46LSD rear, Raceland headers + straight pipe
(Current) 2012 Scion tC 6-spd M/T - slow
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When you replace parts such as drier, and compressor, measure the amount of refrigerant oil that is in each component and add the same amount back into each new components. Since you old compressor leak out some of the oil, do a search on the net for the amount of oil that is normally in the compressor. Use new oil, don't recycle the old stuff.
I would also replace any O-rings that are disturbed when you remove any of the components.
Last edited by upallnight; 08-16-2008 at 12:25 AM.
Member
I started using the cans from that auto parts store to refill and charge systems a while back. They seem to work very well and I recently found a good type of freon you might want to try. When I got my e34 a couple months ago the A/C worked but didn't get as cold as I'd like, my dad had a 94 740i that was exactly the same. I decided to safely remove the existing 134a refrigerant and replace it with some other stuff I had found that claims to run colder. I got it at Autozone and its a synthetic 134a refrigerant. My system had just been checked before I got the car so I knew it was full. After a drain and fill with the new stuff my system runs colder than before no doubt. It was $27 for the big can so not too much more than buying the regular stuff and I'm happy with it.
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The shops diagnosis was based on the compressor being oily?
There are lots of other reasons that could account for the oil, like a fifty cent o-ring or a failed hose crimp or seal ring.
You might get off cheap if you dig a little further.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
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Yep, and judging by where it came out (at the fitting on the compressor) it looks like an o-ring failure is entirely possible. I haven't done any work on the AC system since my first post, so how would you proceed? It'd be nice if I didn't have to replace the compressor and other components but rather just an o-ring. How can I tell if the oil has leaked out and not just the refrigerant?
Member
It's come time that my friends and I need to replace our AC compressor. I'm totally fine purchasing used and shopping online I've found two sites: https://www.carparts.com/ and https://myautostore.com/find-your-pa...y_type_make=or
Has anyone ever ordered from either of these two sites? I'm nervous about purchasing online, but I haven't found anyone in Philadelphia that I would trust.
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