Ultimate DIY for 18 Button OBC Upgrade from 7 or 11 Button OBC Made Easy w/ Pictures!

[johnf]

1. Your OBC probably isn't getting the vehicle speed that is output by the instrument cluster. Do your windshield wipers still become intermittent when you stop?

2. If you are not lucky enough to install an OBC that's been coded to a car similar enough to yours, you have to change the OBC EINHEIT values to match your car. The BMW-approved approach is to recode the OBC with a BMW service tester/computer. The more hackish approach is to set and try different EINHEIT values using the "hidden E36 OBC menu" until you find a combination that's workable. (Try searching for that string without the quotes with Google for instructions. Also try searching these forums for possible E36 OBC EINHEIT values.)

[3MPowered]

1. Your OBC probably isn't getting the vehicle speed that is output by the instrument cluster. Do your windshield wipers still become intermittent when you stop?

2. If you are not lucky enough to install an OBC that's been coded to a car similar enough to yours, you have to change the OBC EINHEIT values to match your car. The BMW-approved approach is to recode the OBC with a BMW service tester/computer. The more hackish approach is to set and try different EINHEIT values using the "hidden E36 OBC menu" until you find a combination that's workable. (Try searching for that string without the quotes with Google for instructions. Also try searching these forums for possible E36 OBC EINHEIT values.)

Thank you for this information. Just to be safe, it sounds like I should redo all of the connections I have made. I'm sure they're fine, but it can't hurt to be sure. I haven't driven the car with the OBC installed yet, and others have confirmed my suspicions that the CONSUM and SPEED functions should have blank readouts until I've taken it for a long enough drive for something to register.

The OBC is coded to a 1997 US M3, while mine is a 1994 Euro M3. I'm sure fuel consumption data is accurate enough for the time being, but I'm more concerned with the Check Control not responding to the new OBC. *** Is the connection from pin 1 of the X1071 (white plug) to ZKE IV pin 15 a necessary connection to get the Check Control operating again? ***

[johnf]

I wouldn't expect so. The check control subsystem doesn't cover the drive-away protection. An explanation in an old ETM also implies the OBC can't sense if the CODE output line (X1071 pin 1) is shorted or open.

What did you use to make your splices?

[3MPowered]

I wouldn't expect so. The check control subsystem doesn't cover the drive-away protection. An explanation in an old ETM also implies the OBC can't sense if the CODE output line (X1071 pin 1) is shorted or open.

What did you use to make your splices?

That's the thing, I simply spliced and shrink wraped (big no-no, I know). I can't get a soldering iron into my car to do it properly in the meantime. I'm pretty sure the connections are solid, but given that they aren't soldered, I'm open to that being the issue.

That shouldn't be the issue with Check Control though, as all of the connections pertaining to it are on the X1070 plug, which supposedly remains untouched during the entire procedure.

[delmarco]

That's the thing, I simply spliced and shrink wraped (big no-no, I know). I can't get a soldering iron into my car to do it properly in the meantime. I'm pretty sure the connections are solid, but given that they aren't soldered, I'm open to that being the issue.

That shouldn't be the issue with Check Control though, as all of the connections pertaining to it are on the X1070 plug, which supposedly remains untouched during the entire procedure.

There is nothing wrong with splice and and heat shrink.

It worked fine for me. Solder joints tend to not be flexible and can still snap if the joint is kinked (i.e when stuffing the wires back behind the dash).

[3MPowered]

There is nothing wrong with splice and and heat shrink.

It worked fine for me. Solder joints tend to not be flexible and can still snap if the joint is kinked (i.e when stuffing the wires back behind the dash).

Wonderful! Then I won't have to do it all over!

[vas2vas]

As i tried to find the answer whole over the internet, i ended up here.
Last week i upgraded my 7 button obc to 18.
All went well, and i checked with this thread if i forgot something.. but except for the turn signal stalk, i havent forgot anything.

The problem i have is that the obc is stuck on: Prog 1
I can push what ever i want, whenever i want, but it wont react.
When the car starts, i have 2 sec to push 10/1000 then i see: Test -- and then i can play with some buttons, but then it jumps back to Prog 1.

Does anybody have an idea what it might be?

I dont think it is neccesary to buy a new TSS? is it?

probably 3 years too late to help the original problem, but grounding the signal stalk input puts the OBC in Prog1... since that wire was not connected mayby it is grounding itself somewhere? If not one could always unlock OBC and run Test 21 (RESET).

[savannah996]

Wow I thought I was mad scientist! Here is a quandary for you;
I have a working 11 button with dead pixels in my car. I have a 18 button sitting here from a parted car. If I want to just get it in the car and powered up, and display the basic "check my junk" screen, is all I need to do is jump over power and ground from the black connector to the white one? (I believe you have the instructions on your 1st page).

"3. Now Splice the 18 Button White Connector to the remaining wiring going into the car that were on the old 7 or 11 Button MID/OBC’s Black Connector. These are;
a. Formally Pin Slot 17 on old Black Connector now Pin 8 on White Connector (Red/Yellow); This powers the 18 Button OBC.
b. Formally Pin Slot 18 on old Black Connector now Pin 13 on White Connector (Brown); This grounds the 18 Button OBC."

[3MPowered]

Should do the trick. Although my CC doesn't work

[savannah996]

Im working on that now. Its powering up but now a no crank situation. Hope its a fuse.

[jfeino]

Im working on that now. Its powering up but now a no crank situation. Hope its a fuse.

I tried testing out my new OBC by attaching power and ground pins into the white wiring harness, and had no power on new unit. After I changed back wires to the old setup and put the old OBC back in, the Car would no longer start up.

What have I done wrong? I believe that the problem may be related to the fact that the battery was still hooked up when I did the work. What can I do to fix the problem?

PLEASE HELP!

[shannonreilly]

My car has the eleven button obc. But I have the black connector which attaches to my OBC and there is a spare white connector lying behind it not attched to anything. Could it be possible my car is pre wired for 18 button. 1996 323i south africa.

Sent from my BlackBerry 8520 using Tapatalk

[e36UTK]

provably in the past your Inc died and someone replaced it with an 11. I'd double check the wiring though

[Quickstrike]

Im working on that now. Its powering up but now a no crank situation. Hope its a fuse.

I tried testing out my new OBC by attaching power and ground pins into the white wiring harness, and had no power on new unit. After I changed back wires to the old setup and put the old OBC back in, the Car would no longer start up.

What have I done wrong? I believe that the problem may be related to the fact that the battery was still hooked up when I did the work. What can I do to fix the problem?

PLEASE HELP!

Ahh what ended up being the problem?

Sounds like it isn't a good idea to just plug the power and ground into the white connector?!


Thanks.

[silver36]

Thanks to OP for the write up on this DIY. During my process I drew up this wiring diagram which made things go a lot smoother. Hope it can help others out! I went from an 11 button to 18 button on a 1996 328i. Everything works =)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7m968ha7pu...%20diagram.pdf

[brunp]

New M3 to me and did the same upgrade of the OBC 11 to the OBC 18.

End result:
- Moved the power and ground to white connector. I had a small flat head screw driver kit so it made it easy.
- three new wires to odometer (two taps to white connector and one new wire into pin 10 in the blue connector
- one tap into the code function for hte ZKE module. Just wiring that up.

Since I was replacing the dashboard, I found it alot easier to splice/solder and otherwise, route all the wires properly....and tie-wrap everything too.

Here is a picture of what I am working with:

obc_upgrade.jpg

[ClutchOne]

New M3 to me and did the same upgrade of the OBC 11 to the OBC 18.

End result:
- Moved the power and ground to white connector. I had a small flat head screw driver kit so it made it easy.
- three new wires to odometer (two taps to white connector and one new wire into pin 10 in the blue connector
- one tap into the code function for hte ZKE module. Just wiring that up.

Since I was replacing the dashboard, I found it alot easier to splice/solder and otherwise, route all the wires properly....and tie-wrap everything too.

Here is a picture of what I am working with:

obc_upgrade.jpg

That Picture Above is So Insane, Good Luck with that... Any Good BMW Shops in So. Cal that can do Electrical ?

[brunp]

That Picture Above is So Insane, Good Luck with that... Any Good BMW Shops in So. Cal that can do Electrical ?

I completed all the work here in one weekend. (5 hours each day) and fortunately, a 3 weeks before our baby was born. Otherwise, the car would still be in this
state and I would not have been able to make it out to any of the driving schools and lapping days this year. Must tell you though, removing and reinstalling
the dashboard takes patience, especially, when the windshield is in the way.

Paul

[flyfishvt]

Great thread. I need to do thus to my m3 project. All I need now is the signal stalk. Looks like a piece of cake. Has anyone used this method and been able to use the CODE function? I don't see a definitive answer on this. Maybe I missed it

[CrashnburnINC]

I'm wondering why it's needed to cut all the wires from the black connector if you're only needing to transfer the power wires over to the white connector?

[brunp]

I'm wondering why it's needed to cut all the wires from the black connector if you're only needing to transfer the power wires over to the white connector?

You actually don't have to cut any wires. I think the black connector is the same for either OBC, but maybe positions are different within the connector itself. So, I just end up removing the pins, and slotting them in the correct spots in the black and wire connector, no cut wires. Then I add all necessary new connectors. It is an easy process, and not as much soldering.

Paul

[jamrobin]

I don't usually like bumping an old thread like this but I went ahead and did this project yesterday and came across a problem not mentioned here... My temperature is showing -35C (it was correct before) and I have checked and re-checked the red/grey connection and I unplugged and re-seated the temperature sensor...

Anyone find their temperature sensor took a while to start showing the right temperature? It's the same symptom as a bad sensor, but I really hate coincidences that happen at the same time I am making a change :-\
I had the battery disconnected overnight because I was taking the steering wheel off to swap for a freshly re-done Euro one as part of the install (easier to pull the gauges with no steering wheel) and never re-connected until an hour ago when I finished and wanted to test everything... could that have anything to do with it?

[flyfishvt]

I've replaced temp sensors and it usually takes 30-60 minutes for the correct temp to display. I've also replaced sensors and reversed the wires. The correct temp never displayed. I haven't done this upgrade but I have everything ready to do it in my m3.

[jamrobin]

I've replaced temp sensors and it usually takes 30-60 minutes for the correct temp to display. I've also replaced sensors and reversed the wires. The correct temp never displayed. I haven't done this upgrade but I have everything ready to do it in my m3.

Thanks. Appreciate the insight.
If you're about to do it you could learn from my pain...
1) Don't cut the black connector off your car. You'll just end up splicing perfectly good wires back together. You can remove the comb from the connector if needed but double and triple check. If you have an 11 button there's probably nothing to do to that connector except maybe vampire tap a couple.
2) For the wire going to the stalk and the wires going to the gauge connectors... same thing, plus I DID have some of them already connected and just tapped them and added a single wire to the blue connector... the rest were vampire taps.
3) START at the gauges and stalk and feed the wires down to the OBC from there... I taped all six together and put a knot in the very end then passed it all down as a bundle really easily.
4) I don't know how small people's hands are but I sure had a devil of a time unplugging the stalk connector and plugging it back in.
5) There are specific spots to zip tie the wires back onto the steering column... use them, but they're still better suited to way smaller hands than mine.
6) For the Code function, use the empty pin 15 on the EWSII module instead. It's the very bottom module so it's easy to reach and has the pin right there and vacant. You can use a blue female butt connector to add the wire... just pull the lower kick panel and pull the EWSII module out without removing the glove box. (it's the white box with a fuchsia connector)

It's nowhere near as difficult or messy as all the photos look... I wish I had read the comments in the Pelican write up... I repeat no need to cut and splice on the black connector. total 6 new wires and a few taps.

Jamie

[zener]

Just did this, everything else works but range isnt. Also the secret menu fuel amount in litres is showing 0. Any help?

EDIT: solved, my own mistake.