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Power windows and sunroof not working
My windows and sunroof wont work....Sunroof is stuck in tilt position and drivers window is stuck halfway down. The intermittent wipers and normal speed wipers also do not function but the "fast" speed wipers work OK.
Does anybody know what the problem here could be? I've checked both fuse boxes and the fuses are ok and there is power at the fuse boxes.
Member
I had the same problem in my 318. Checked all fuses, boxes, etc...
ended up being the switches. The sunroof switch was broken internal.
racecar
fusible link or general module
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Anything a bit more specific than "general module"?Originally Posted by slocar
@ Frylock- so your saying that the switchs if broken broke the whole circuit? I think I'll go check them now! Its pissing rain and the car looks ghetto with a bag over the window
Member
yeah when I replaced the switch the sunroof worked. I ended up taking the old switch apart and when i poped off the cover some of the plastics inside were broken and wedged in places they shouldnt have been probably causing a short. Im not real sure because when I opened the switch it pretty much fell apart.
Southpaw
I have a '92 535I w/ the EXACT same problem. Car was sitting outside-sunroof was not closed all the way- water worked it's way beneath rear driver side seat. Right where the computer modules are. No windows/Sunroof/doorlocks/wipers only work on Hi. This also caused the battery to be drained.
After everything was dried out-and car was moved back into the garage-I got my meter out-checked for power. Others told me I could have blown fuse next to battery that is heatshrinked and not easy to get to. It was ok. After checking continuity and cleaning up ALL the connections to the module/computer/brainbox for the accessories I found when the box was disconnected-the battery drain went away. I'm currently looking for a replacement (supposedly the 735 is the same).
I'm a guessing that’s where you need to look first-under the back seat.
Let us know what you find.
Richard
Member
My money is on the 80amp fusible link.
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Hit the window switch today when I was in work and the windows worked. Everything back to normal...I must have a gremlin somewhere though an intermittent fault is a permanent fault waiting to happen.
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Holy thread ressurection batman
I eventually put down the windows not working due to the amount of standing water I was driving through on the roads. I reckon that the water was making its way up the inside of the arch liner. Basicly I started to make it my buisness to avoid puddles and the problem went away. Just said I'd post it up incase anyone else had the problem.
Member
thread resurrect approved.
Today my e34's windows, locks and the stereo all died at once
I am searching through the threads now to gather info.
I checked the fuses under the hood. All were fine.
Not sure if I have more in the trunk and I don't know anything about general modules. yet.....
-Andrew
Member
searched huh...the thread you ressurrected tells you the problem...
03 mustang gt, 96 Land Rover Discovery, 95 740i, 06 750i
Member
oh god...this must be the dreaded german electrical gremlins my buddies were telling me about. goodluck with your problems. Ill follow these threads closely in case I run into the same issues.
Member
god first damn google result
http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Mainte...sible_link.htm
03 mustang gt, 96 Land Rover Discovery, 95 740i, 06 750i
Wheel whore & a BMW mech
I had the same problem on a few of my 34's, it's just a fuse under the backseat, on the left side (behind the driver). Check the fuses under the black cover and see that you've blown one or two fuses there. It's not a big fuse or anything special, just a regular fuse around 10-30Amps IIRC. That should atleast help you with the power windows and the wipers.
Member
no, I didn't say that I had "searched" I said I was search"ing"
thanks for suggesting the 80 amp link, I'll try that, but this thread actually says that the solution is avoiding puddles.
if you know the answer I am sure it sticks out, but in this thread that was just a random and unacknowledged comment, so it didn't look like the clear answer to me
Dangst thanks for the link, god DAMN IT!
Miche, thanks for the alternate idea, I'll check there too.
Last edited by Dynamic Entry; 08-11-2009 at 11:08 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
-Andrew
Member
After going thru all the posts I could find here, I finally came across the real culprit in my car. I checked every fuse and link, all ok. I changed out the modules and relays which did nothing. Reading water under the carpet could corrode the spliced connections, I cut the harnesses open that were dead ending and green from corrosion. . I pulled the caps off each set of spliced wires one 1 at a time. The first one had corroded apart, I fixed that and still no power windows. I pulled the rubber caps of all the wire splices and a total of three sets of wires had corroded apart. I respliced them, soldered them and now everything is working including the doorlocks that havent worked since I bought it. So if any of you have this issue, don't fear getting into the harness 1 set at a time, but do check the fusable links and fuses first. I had problems with the link on another 525 I own and is the most probable cause in most cases except in my case only the windows, sunroof and door locks didn't work. I still had wipers, radio and blower motor, so I kind of knew it wasn't a fusable link. I just wanted to post this for future reference to others in this situation. See, I could of never figured this out without reading all the other posts that lead me to the problem. Thanks to all the posters I got it done in a few hours. Now I have to find where the water is coming from and I'm suspecting a sunroof drain is clogged, for now I drilled a hole in the floor to keep it drained. Thank you all.
Last edited by boilerman; 09-07-2009 at 05:18 PM.
Member
Where are the wire splices mentioned above? I have similar issues; no power windows, no power locks, no sunroof, wipers on high only.
Replaced both two blown 10 amp fuses under the rear seat. Worked windows worked for a second. Relays for sunroof would click, but no movement. Both fuses blow again!
Replaced with 15 amp fuses (not trying to start a fire). Wipers are good, but still no power windows locks or sunroof. I an betting one of the fuses is blown again. Need to track down the likely shorts, or other issues.
Anbody have a systematic way of running this problem down?
Member
hi
same has boilerman did the same thing ...the water is by the way coming form the roof back drain
i checked cable form t5he gm and rm to the front but nothing
when pushing driver window button i heard a clip once then nothing...for around 1 minute then push again and another clic ...sound like a power surge...i change rm gm and yellow relay and fuse but nothing....no power lock doors ....but when i open lock driver or passenger it s open the lock of the trunk
i have this problem since spring ...the summer was really hot in my black touring bmw
Member
My sunroof n windows stop working at same time. Any ideas of what may be wrong?All fuses are good.
Member
I just bought a 1997 318i the sunroof doesn't move but I can hear the motor trying to move it...not sure what the problem is.
Member
So I saw this post yesterday where a guy bumped up a thread that last had activity in 2009 and thought to myself that it couldnt get any worse.....now another guys asks about an E36 in the E34 forum.
Sigh....
Member
So, you bump it again.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Member
Yes. Was d only logical thing I could think of. Haa
Member
It could need to be re-sync'd but best to check in with the E36 chassis forum.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Member
As Boilerman wrote back in 2009 i have had the same problems with mine, and searched forums and could not find alot about the problem, always the fusable link, GM ( which i by the way have 3 of now that function.. ) and Relay module.. What i found and what boilerman found was the problem was the wires of equal colors under the base that hold the GM and RM and fuses, they connect in a clip that is crimped with some insulator at the end, I think it was a red with white stripe but check those wire schematics you can download in pdf, and that one delivered power to the GM over the RM, at the joint the wires was completely corroded over..
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