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Thread: Race Car Defogger/Defroster

  1. #1
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    Race Car Defogger/Defroster

    I'm sure some of you have done this already but I couldn't find any pictures or how-tos so I figured I'd post mine and maybe it'll help someone else.

    When I stripped the car and did the cage last winter, I chose to leave the heater core element (but remove the giant plastic box) and eventually hook up a fan/duct setup for a defogger. Everyone that said the Fog-X stuff was "good enough" lived in Arizona and probably doesnt do as many 30*F Lime Rock mornings as I do. Regardless, I tried it and it definitely does not work well enough.

    Credit goes to Jimmypet since I stole his idea.

    To keep the core and lose the big plastic box, you need to make a bracket for the core to sit on (3/4"-1" above the trans tunnel). Big zip ties hold the core to the bracket.

    Flow to the heater core is controlled by a solenoid on the firewall in the engine bay. It's a simple wiring job. Send power to the solenoid to STOP flow to the core.

    I picked up a square to 3" duct from Pegasus, some ducting, and the in-line fan from Bimmerworld and viola:







    Hard to see but this is the duct from Pegasus on the back of the core:



    Here's the solenoid you're looking for:






    It works great, btw.

    Search words: defog, defogger, defroster, heater core
    Last edited by JClark; 07-28-2008 at 09:13 AM.


  2. #2
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    Cool.

    You can even take a peice of tubing and put it at the base of the windshield, cut holes/vents in it, cap one end, and feed air in from the other. Its a simple way to get air evenly across the window.

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    I had planned to do that or hook it up to the factory ducts but my dash bar runs right underneath the opening so this was easier than cutting new ducts.


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  5. #5
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    Your interior makes me want to gut mine sell it all and buy some sheet aluminum and gauges

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    Jesse

    Ummmmm...I think I am going to keep the stock unit in mine for now......any regrets taking yours out? I am gutting the car now...what fun....THIS IS...the job I was born to do....tear a car apart and not have to put it back together......
    Last edited by BobWright; 07-28-2008 at 08:46 AM. Reason: spell of course
    ..."keep a little love in your heart and a taste of jazz in your soul."

  7. #7
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    If by stock unit, you mean the giant plastic heater box, then no, no regrets in removing it.

    To keep it you also have to keep the body control module in the center console AND the heater control panel. Clutter bugs me so this was an easy fix. The duct fan blows harder and hotter than the stock unit ever did.


  8. #8
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    I've heard of people talking about running tubes from the trans tunnel as well (heat via exhaust). I guess the problem with this would be fumes?
    85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i/5
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    The finished product!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by JGood325 View Post
    I've heard of people talking about running tubes from the trans tunnel as well (heat via exhaust). I guess the problem with this would be fumes?
    I think the solution you're referring to is to run a duct to the passenger side of the tunnel, but it stays in the interior, so exhaust fumes would not be an issue. The problem I would see with this would be that you would have to wait until the floor gets hot from the exhaust under the car. And then I don't know how much effect it would have.

  10. #10
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    JClark,

    Interesting solution. Weren't you able to tie in that ducting to the factory dash defrost vents?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael9218 View Post
    I think the solution you're referring to is to run a duct to the passenger side of the tunnel, but it stays in the interior, so exhaust fumes would not be an issue. The problem I would see with this would be that you would have to wait until the floor gets hot from the exhaust under the car. And then I don't know how much effect it would have.
    That did not work for me at all. It seemed to make things worse actually.

    I now just use shampoo on the inside of my windshield...
    Eric WONGer
    2012 NASA Nationals GTS3 First Loser
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    Now-#121 GTS3 E46 M3

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael9218 View Post
    JClark,

    Interesting solution. Weren't you able to tie in that ducting to the factory dash defrost vents?
    That was the original plan, but my cage's dash bar runs right under the factory vents.


  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by magnetic1 View Post
    That did not work for me at all. It seemed to make things worse actually.

    I now just use shampoo on the inside of my windshield...

    any particular BRAND Bryan....or just go VO5 and save !!......
    ..."keep a little love in your heart and a taste of jazz in your soul."

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobWright View Post
    any particular BRAND Bryan....or just go VO5 and save !!......
    It's Eric!

    Dunno what I use, it's whatever the wife packs me in my travel pack
    Eric WONGer
    2012 NASA Nationals GTS3 First Loser
    EX-#121 IP/GTS3 M3 SOLD
    Now-#121 GTS3 E46 M3

  15. #15
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    Oppps....sorry Eric.....I was skimming and mistook you for Bryan Watts......
    ..."keep a little love in your heart and a taste of jazz in your soul."

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael9218 View Post
    I think the solution you're referring to is to run a duct to the passenger side of the tunnel, but it stays in the interior, so exhaust fumes would not be an issue. The problem I would see with this would be that you would have to wait until the floor gets hot from the exhaust under the car. And then I don't know how much effect it would have.
    This set up has worked well for me. Now, I do have all of the Motec goodies down there pumping out heat on their own too....

    Steve E.

  17. #17
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    I have a rear defrost unit out of an E-30 convertible that is lightweight and also works very well. No need to have the heat exchanger and fluid in the cockpit.

  18. #18
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    Can I ask a few clarification questions please. Could you explain how you sealed the pipework back through the firewall? I am assuming that the solenoid is run off one of the toggle switches on your center panel along with the fan? Thanks for the help as I am in the middle of doing this right now.

  19. #19
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    davesnavy is offline Bimmerworld Transporter BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobWright View Post
    Oppps....sorry Eric.....I was skimming and mistook you for Bryan Watts......
    Yeah, they look a lot alike. Easy to confuse the two.

    '88 325is S50 conversion by Sports and Imports, Chesapeake, VA. Maintained by Bimmerworld.
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  20. #20
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    I know it's not exactly what you're looking for, but has anyone considered buffing dish washing soap into the windshield on the inside?
    It's a diver's trick to prevent fogging in lenses. I actually do that on my eyewear and swim goggles as well...works excellent! /ghettoracing

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by boro92 View Post
    I know it's not exactly what you're looking for, but has anyone considered buffing dish washing soap into the windshield on the inside?
    It's a diver's trick to prevent fogging in lenses. I actually do that on my eyewear and swim goggles as well...works excellent! /ghettoracing
    Dawn is supposed to work yes.

    I made a defroster using some marine fans and the diff cooler as the heater core.
    2000 M Coupe
    [Always in progress !!!]

  22. #22
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    Why not eliminate all of it and just mount a 12V heater to the dash?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenndoggy View Post
    Why not eliminate all of it and just mount a 12V heater to the dash?
    I tried that, just not enough heat or volume to be effective. Shampoo works really well.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenndoggy View Post
    Why not eliminate all of it and just mount a...
    ...heated windscreen: http://www.heatedwindscreen.com/acat...ndscreens.html?

    Granted, they're not cheap by the time you have one installed & working, but pushing a button for a totally clear windscreen is very nice. I really didn't care for the results produced by the OEM heater core/dishsoap arrangement I previously used.

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