Matt, any chance you sell the Menzerna products in any smaller sizes? I'm looking to pick up the IP and FPII per recommendations as well as a couple others, but with me being a poor student 32oz seems like overkill as it will probably last longer than I'll be alive plus I could spend a little more money on some other goodies from you guys as well then...
Alpinweiß 1994 325is M-Technic
Dinan Chip, Bilstein/H&R Sports, Supersprint cat-back, UUC suspension bits
We have a few in 16oz, but none that you mentioned unfortunately. (Sealing Wax, Power Gloss, Super Finish, Power Finish).
If you're looking to use IP/FP, I would just go with Power Finish to be honest. It starts with the same amount of cut as IP and finishes down very nicely. Great 1-step product if your paint is in decent shape with minor swirls.
Ohh, interesting, I might have to do that. The only thing is that my paint hasn't been properly polished in who knows how long, I figured I'd give it a good one time polish and maintain it better thereafter. It has a good amount of swirls and holograms in it and has 15 year old paint even though it's only seen the weather of maybe a 7 year old car. I had also thought of going the Meg's 105/205 route since I'm using a random orbital to do the work with.
Alpinweiß 1994 325is M-Technic
Dinan Chip, Bilstein/H&R Sports, Supersprint cat-back, UUC suspension bits
If your paint hasn't been polished in god knows how long, it can probably use a 105/205 treatment. If you post some pics in direct sunlight or under halogens I can give you a more accurate opinion.
I have been reading through threads and have totally confused myself with the variety of products and wealth of knowledge here. I have decided to take the plunge and make an effort to detail my car myself and never have used anything other than elbow grease on my cars. I have watched the detailing videos on your site, what a great resource. I have a carbon black e46 M3 just like the one in the "m3 detailed" thread by cannonb850 (sorry, don't know how to link to it). It is showing light swirls just like that one. I am looking for direction .... I was looking at two porter cable kits on autogeek and want to take advantage of the forum discount before it expires .... wolfgang or menzerra. Which kit do you think will give a beginner the best chance at great results. Also which "clay bar" too ....
Thanks in advance for your thoughts .....
Matt, are you guys doing any special discounts for the holiday weekend?
Yup, we have a huge kit sale going on.
http://www.autogeek.net/kitspecials.html
Yup, I'd go ahead and use M105/orange, and M205/gray.
Last edited by Matt@Autogeek; 07-03-2009 at 10:50 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
any special promotion code for bimmerforums?
clubmember for 10% off. Does not apply to buffers, wash buckets, vacuums, and garage flooring.
I'm picking up this all original (even the paint) 1967 Volvo 122s this weekend. The paint is dull and oxidized, but to my untrained eye appears to be in decent shape otherwise. Any suggestions for how to get started betting some shine and color back into it? Some quick reading seems like one of the Klasse Kits (with All in One and and Super Gloss and applicators) might be a good choice (?)
Last edited by nogirlsatgt; 07-22-2009 at 12:28 PM.
The Klasse All In One is great for removing oxidation and restore the color of the paint. Do 2-3 applications of the All In One to remove all the dead paint and then a few layers of the Sealant Glaze to restore the protection.
Hi Matt,
thanks for all the great info! I have a quick question:
I just purchased an e36 m3/4 that is in need of a
1)complete detail ( I don't beleive the car has ever had a proper detail)
2) some minor paint touch ups
3) respray of rear bumper
4) minor paintless dent removal and align some panels
What order should I have these things done?
Hi Matt,
I'm just about ready to take the plunge and purchase a PC. I have a question about pad quantity though. How many pads will I probably go through when doing one round of polishing for a MCoupe?
My next question is in regards to M205. I've been reading different opinions on whether another final polishing step is needed after M205. What is your take on it?
If I were to follow up w/ another polish product, what would you recommend?
Thanks,
-al
I would wash and clay the vehicle first but do not polish or wax until the paint and body work is done. Once you have everything taken care of, check with the painter to see how long before waxing/sealing the painted areas and then do the complete detail.
It's a good idea to have 2 of each pad that you'll be using in case a pad get's overy saturated, dirty or tears in the middle of the job. If used correctly, the 205 leaves a clear, swirl-free finish that is ready for wax or sealant.
Last edited by Matt@Autogeek; 07-27-2009 at 10:27 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
hey matt, it'll be my first time doing my detail of my own car (keep in mind that I do have a vehicle to practice on) and I had a couple of questions. My car is black and does have visible swirl marks and spider webbing. What would be the best combination of products and the quantity of pads to use and/or buy? I have a 7 inch rotary that I'd be using and would like the cheapest and quickest way to get rid of the swirl marks and spider webs. Please let me know and thank you.
----How well would the xmt 360 work with lake country kompressor white polishing pad? Will this pad fit on my 7 inch rotary? It shows a picture of the car handle with scratches and around my car the scratches aren't that bad. Also will the lake country pads fit onto my rotary that has a velcro kind of attachment. Sorry for all the noob questions but I just want to try to detail my car on my own. Let me know matt thanks.
Last edited by gottabethejays; 07-31-2009 at 04:45 AM.
Rotary polishers are great for removing severe defects, sanding scratches and oxidation but I don't recommend them for finishing work (the type of polishing where you are making the paint look perfect). Even the best rotary work should be followed up with orbital polishing to ensure there are no holograms or buffer swirls. A rotary is even considered overkill if the paint is in otherwise great shape and just needs light to moderate swirl removal. You should consider the Porter Cable 7424XP to polish out the swirls and spider webbing.
If you do use your rotary, I need to know the exact size of the backing plate that is on it in order to suggest the correct pad size. The XMT 360 works great with the Kompressor pads. Actually I found it works great with every polishing pad that I have tested it with.
Last edited by Matt@Autogeek; 08-04-2009 at 10:30 AM.
The backing plate is 7 inches. Sorry for the misunderstanding. I actually decided to go ahead and get the swirl free kit by meguiars. But the orange pads that come with it are made for a da supposedly. Will those pads fit on my rotary? I bought a 4 3/4 backing plate to fit the pads in the kit. Lmk thanks.
Yes, the pads will work fine as long as you're using the right size backing plate (4 3/4" is correct).
yea i just purchased the pc and worked great but i got polish on trim peices how do i get it off around doors and windows
hi,
is there something OTC i can use for a pad conditioner and stuff?
Hey is a foam pad conditioner necessary? Can I use some other kind of product at home, etc? Will quick detailing spray work? Let me know and thanks.
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