Ask the Autogeek! Question & Answer Thread

[98bmw323convert]

What is the best way to clean a convertible's rear plastic window? I have a 98 323ic and can hardly see through it any more. Any suggestions would be truly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

[Nick@Autogeek]

What is the best way to clean a convertible's rear plastic window? I have a 98 323ic and can hardly see through it any more. Any suggestions would be truly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Hello! I've always had great success with the RaggTopp Convertible Top Plastic Window Cleaner & Protectant Kit.

This kit includes a specially designed plastic polish/cleaner that will remove the staining and yellowing along with a specially designed plastic window protectant that will help prevent future yellowing. The kit also includes the necessary applicators to use with each product.

For anything convertible related, you can't go wrong with RaggTopp Convertible Top Care Products.

[86GT635]

Looking for a chemical for raw/polished aluminum to remove imbedded brake dust or really old corrosion. These sat for 15-20 years.






I've been using x-treem metal polish (impregnated cotton), and while it works better than any paste I've tried, it wears my fingers out. This is really some good stuff, leaps and bounds stronger than never dull. Maybe you guys should add it to your arsenal. http://www.xtreemusa.com/metalpolish.html

Here's a example of how well this stuff works. I spend probably 5-10 minutes on each spoke.

[SP4RT4N]

I have an 01 e39 that I have just bought. Previous owner let the car sit out in the sun and now my black paint has some fade. I tried waxing but I can't get that shine to come back I was thinking about paying a detail shop to see if they cn bring my cars paint back to life. What would you recommend I do? Here is a pic of the car sitting out in the sun

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

[Nick@Autogeek]

Looking for a chemical for raw/polished aluminum to remove imbedded brake dust or really old corrosion. These sat for 15-20 years.

I've been using x-treem metal polish (impregnated cotton), and while it works better than any paste I've tried, it wears my fingers out. This is really some good stuff, leaps and bounds stronger than never dull. Maybe you guys should add it to your arsenal. http://www.xtreemusa.com/metalpolish.html

Here's a example of how well this stuff works. I spend probably 5-10 minutes on each spoke.

Thanks for sharing!

I have an 01 e39 that I have just bought. Previous owner let the car sit out in the sun and now my black paint has some fade. I tried waxing but I can't get that shine to come back I was thinking about paying a detail shop to see if they cn bring my cars paint back to life. What would you recommend I do? Here is a pic of the car sitting out in the sun

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

A one-step cleaner wax should be able to bring your paint back to life. Check out this article:

How To: Maximize Time with a Cleaner Wax/AIO

Can you prefer me any best product for removing the scratches effectively and cleanly?

If you can't feel the scratch with your fingernail and don't have a polisher, generally a lot of elbow grease and a quality hand polish will do the trick.

Meguiars SCRATCH X 2.0

[PeterHall]

Hey bought this kit awhile back and love it, but I was wondering what would you recommend getting for the next step up? (pad and polish) Theres a few clearcoat scratchs that simply wont come out.

http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-por...l-remover.html

[Nick@Autogeek]

Hey bought this kit awhile back and love it, but I was wondering what would you recommend getting for the next step up? (pad and polish) Theres a few clearcoat scratchs that simply wont come out.

http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-por...l-remover.html

If you can feel the scratch with your finger nail, you can..

Wet sand it. If you aren't able to remove it completely, you'll at least be able to lessen the appearance. See this guide on scratch removal.

If you cannot feel the scratch with your finger nail, you can..

Use a more aggressive polish/compound. Meguiar's M105 works very well (use with a heavy cut foam pad). Be sure to follow up with Wolfgang Finishing Glaze to refine the surface.

One thing to keep in mind is that your vehicle only has so much clear coat (usually about 3 mils which is as thick as a post-it note) and the more you work at removing a scratch, the more clear coat you lose.

[harleycoach]

I have orange, white, and grey CCS pads and XMT 1,2, and 3 along with the XMT finishing glaze. In working with the orange pad and the number 3 swirl remover, the paint seems to get foggy, or duller then the paint I did not polish. I'm using a PC 7424 XP, tried using speeds 5 and 6 to remove the swirls, taking the small sections suggested. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong. This was my test section after XMT 1 and the white pad didn't work. Look forward to your response.

Thanks,

Scott

[Nick@Autogeek]

I have orange, white, and grey CCS pads and XMT 1,2, and 3 along with the XMT finishing glaze. In working with the orange pad and the number 3 swirl remover, the paint seems to get foggy, or duller then the paint I did not polish. I'm using a PC 7424 XP, tried using speeds 5 and 6 to remove the swirls, taking the small sections suggested. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong. This was my test section after XMT 1 and the white pad didn't work. Look forward to your response.

Thanks,

Scott

Scott,

XMT polishes contain a diminishing abrasive and need to be fully broken down before turning the polisher off and moving to the next section.

Work the polish for 4-5 section passes at speed 6 using moderate (10-15 lbs) of pressure. Perform an additional 3 section passes at speed 4 using light pressure (hardly any).

Follow up with XMT 1 and a white/gray (try both) pad to further refine the finish.

[harleycoach]

Thanks a bunch. Should have decent weather here in Maryland this weekend and will give it a go.

Scott

[docwells]

Nick,

I have some scratches and swirls on my car that I would like to get rid of. I can not feel them with my fingernail. I tried Meguiar's M105 on an orange lake country pad without any change in the scratches. Should I go to a diffent pad like a yellow pad. just looking for options before I give it over to a detailer. We don't have many in our area who do paint correction.

[Nick@Autogeek]

Nick,

I have some scratches and swirls on my car that I would like to get rid of. I can not feel them with my fingernail. I tried Meguiar's M105 on an orange lake country pad without any change in the scratches. Should I go to a diffent pad like a yellow pad. just looking for options before I give it over to a detailer. We don't have many in our area who do paint correction.

Make sure your technique is spot-on before switching to anything more aggressive.

Ensure the pad is flat and that it's rotating. Practice a SLOW arm movement (faster is not better!) and work the compound for 4-6 section passes.

If that doesn't do the trick, your vehicle may just have really hard paint which means a more aggressive pad (yellow) will be necessary.

[docwells]

Nick,
I will try it again. I am thinking I was moving the polisher too fast. I will try and be slower the next time.
I am using a Flex polisher. What setting should I set it at?
Thanks

[Nick@Autogeek]

Nick,
I will try it again. I am thinking I was moving the polisher too fast. I will try and be slower the next time.
I am using a Flex polisher. What setting should I set it at?
Thanks

Assuming you're using the FLEX XC3401, set the polisher at speed 6 - apply about 15 lbs of pressure and practice a SLOW arm movement.

[RyansBMW]

Im looking to pick up a bottle of the Menzerna FG-400 Fast Gloss. Im going to try it on an orange pad first. If that isnt up to the task, do you recommend a yellow pad or a microfiber cutting pad?

[Nick@Autogeek]

Im looking to pick up a bottle of the Menzerna FG-400 Fast Gloss. Im going to try it on an orange pad first. If that isnt up to the task, do you recommend a yellow pad or a microfiber cutting pad?

A lot of people have had great success using Menzerna FG-400 with a microfiber cutting pad (I'm a big fan of the Lake Country Ultra-Fiber Pads myself). We always recommend using the least aggressive approach first, so start with the orange pad and go from there.

Follow up with Menzerna SF-4000 on a WHITE polishing foam pad to further refine the surface.

[toddmc]

I have water spots etched into the my imperial blue paint, even though the car is only a couple months old. What do you recommend for removing it?

[Nick@Autogeek]

I have water spots etched into the my imperial blue paint, even though the car is only a couple months old. What do you recommend for removing it?

You'll need a heavy cut compound and a dual action polisher.

I would recommend Menzerna FG-400 and a Lake Country Ultra-Fiber Microfiber Pad. This might not completely remove them if they're etched, but it will definitely help make them less obvious.

[toddmc]

Thank you nick.

[NotUrAvgM]

There have been various threads about the best product to keep the treated/protected "leather" in our cars supple to avoid cracking. Most opinions have been simply Lexol or Leatherique because people have tried them and nothing terrible has happened. Doesnt mean it's truly correct though.

A few folks seemingly better versed in the subject have said a water based product like Leather Masters would be best to rehydrate the leather. What say you?

Thanks!

[SWtraveler]

Dye rubs off on cloth when detailing leather seats. I recently bought a car and immediately customized the OEM silver leather seats by having the center seat/back areas replaced with a contrasting blue leather. The installer I used was recommended to me by the dealer. The leather I selected from the installer's sample list was a BMW semi-metalic medium blue. Now, three months later I am detailing the car for the first time and I am getting some blue dye on my cloth when using cleaner or conditioner on this new leather. It is not a lot of color and I can't see any damage to the leather, but color transfer can not be good.

I use Lexol cleaner and Connolly Hyde Food conditioner and have used these for 25 years on leather seats on everything from Maseratis to Hyundais. The installer said that the leather provider only recommends Byrons products but same result with them. I get no transfer when using a water-damped cloth or saddle soap. The installer is now telling me that this is common with BMW semi-metalic and metalic leathers. I'm thinking the leather is defective and the installer is covering his ass.

[Nick@Autogeek]

There have been various threads about the best product to keep the treated/protected "leather" in our cars supple to avoid cracking. Most opinions have been simply Lexol or Leatherique because people have tried them and nothing terrible has happened. Doesnt mean it's truly correct though.

A few folks seemingly better versed in the subject have said a water based product like Leather Masters would be best to rehydrate the leather. What say you?

Thanks!

I'm a big fan of Optimum Leather Protectant for coated leather and Leather Master for everything else.

[Ddub562]

Anyone have any idea what these spots may be from and how to remove them? My car is a '95 but I don't think it could be the clearcoat because they just started appearing over the last month. I'm thinking it may be some type of sap but I had zero luck with clay (pics below are from after the detailing I tried yesterday). Any ideas?

[pippy]

I've always wondered if it is generally considered safe to take my car to a car wash. It worries me that they won't take responsibility for damages that occur in the wash. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cX07B1JkMC4

[antsE39]

I would only run your car through touchless washes