Ask the Autogeek! Question & Answer Thread

[Matt@Autogeek]

I'd definitely go ahead and use a Dakota Odor Bomb. Might also want to use a 1Z Klima-Cleaner as well for the A/C system. Both of these will take care of any odors inside the vehicle.

[Substream]

I'd definitely go ahead and use a Dakota Odor Bomb. Might also want to use a 1Z Klima-Cleaner as well for the A/C system. Both of these will take care of any odors inside the vehicle.

OK, thanks. Hope it works!

[jbl91762]

Geek, I stumbled upon my old 6" sander/polisher from craftsman that runs on 2 speed 1400rpm and 1600rpm. I have no experience with using these type of polishers. I have the cheapy 10" random orbit from autozone but that will not work on my 01 black 330i. The owners prior to me always washed it a local hand wash place and had the spray on wax each time. So when I got it I hand polished with turtle wax polish then followed up with a coat of Maguires Carnuba wax. I did not clay it cause the finish is still smooth to the touch all over the car. It looked great until a week later, I hand washed it and now the entire car has Lots of spider webs/swirls. I did not use MF to dry just 100% cotton towels to dry it. Not sure what caused the swirls, but what will work with the polisher mentioned or is it too fast an rpm?? what do you have that might work with the 10" obrital autozone or even hand polish?

[jbl91762]

Autogeeks, you guys on vacation???

[Matt@Autogeek]

Geek, I stumbled upon my old 6" sander/polisher from craftsman that runs on 2 speed 1400rpm and 1600rpm. I have no experience with using these type of polishers. I have the cheapy 10" random orbit from autozone but that will not work on my 01 black 330i. The owners prior to me always washed it a local hand wash place and had the spray on wax each time. So when I got it I hand polished with turtle wax polish then followed up with a coat of Maguires Carnuba wax. I did not clay it cause the finish is still smooth to the touch all over the car. It looked great until a week later, I hand washed it and now the entire car has Lots of spider webs/swirls. I did not use MF to dry just 100% cotton towels to dry it. Not sure what caused the swirls, but what will work with the polisher mentioned or is it too fast an rpm?? what do you have that might work with the 10" obrital autozone or even hand polish?

You're not going to achieve a nice finish with a rotary unless 1) you're experienced with it, 2) are using a proper finishing polish, and 3) are using a good finishing pad that has no cut to it.

What happened is very common. Take your car to any body shop or dealership to get buffed out, and similar results will occur. The oils in the wax hide the defects until they wash off, and you're left with a swirled out vehicle.

This is why DA polishers are so popular. I strongly suggest watching our Porter Cable How-To videos in the Show Car Garage section of our website to get an idea of how to properly correct paint and care for your finish to get rid of swirls for good and keep them from coming back.

http://autogeek.net/showcargarage.html

[tjr980]

Hi I have some light swirl marks in my silver metallic paint from always taking it through a car wash and never detailing it until now (2001).

I was looking around and found Meguiars Swirl X Remover and Wolfgang Swirl Remover 3.0, what one or what other one would be best for a beginner that I wouldn't run the chance of doing more damage then when I started??

I would be using a cheap random orbital buffer, or going by hand, as I am new.

Thanks Matt

[nogirlsatgt]

I have a 1967 Volvo 122s. I bought the car last July. The paint is an old single-stage red, and was quite oxidized and faded when I brought it home. I spent a better part of the first week I owned it freshing up the paint with a wash, cray, Meguiars ScratchX 2.0, Polish, and wax. . . all by hand. It looked pretty dang good for a 43 year old car (before/after) below.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8ipvB_cNrbc/Sn...sidebyside.jpg

Fast-forward a little over a year, and due to the extreme amounts of rain, as well as lack of proper storage, the car pretty much looks as it did when I bought it again. However, my new apartment has a garage, so once I get it looking nice it should stay looking nice. I also have access to a Portar Cable orbital from a friend, which I'm hoping will increase the speed and efficiency with which I am able to work.

I'm looking for some suggestions about a product routine to use with the PC for good results. Any suggestions?

[Matt@Autogeek]

Hi I have some light swirl marks in my silver metallic paint from always taking it through a car wash and never detailing it until now (2001).

I was looking around and found Meguiars Swirl X Remover and Wolfgang Swirl Remover 3.0, what one or what other one would be best for a beginner that I wouldn't run the chance of doing more damage then when I started??

I would be using a cheap random orbital buffer, or going by hand, as I am new.

Thanks Matt

SwirlX will work better by hand since it uses non-diminishing abrasives. But by machine, it's tough to beat Wolfgang polishes. They're super easy to use and get awesome results on just about any finish.

I have a 1967 Volvo 122s. I bought the car last July. The paint is an old single-stage red, and was quite oxidized and faded when I brought it home. I spent a better part of the first week I owned it freshing up the paint with a wash, cray, Meguiars ScratchX 2.0, Polish, and wax. . . all by hand. It looked pretty dang good for a 43 year old car (before/after) below.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8ipvB_cNrbc/Sn...sidebyside.jpg

Fast-forward a little over a year, and due to the extreme amounts of rain, as well as lack of proper storage, the car pretty much looks as it did when I bought it again. However, my new apartment has a garage, so once I get it looking nice it should stay looking nice. I also have access to a Portar Cable orbital from a friend, which I'm hoping will increase the speed and efficiency with which I am able to work.

I'm looking for some suggestions about a product routine to use with the PC for good results. Any suggestions?

I'd go ahead and clay, use your ScratchX 2.0 with an orange pad / speed 5, and follow with SwirlX on a white pad / speed 4. Then, you can apply a wax/sealant of your choice. If you want something that will really protect, Collinite 845 or DP Poli Coat would be a great option for long lasting protection and ease of use. Cool car by the way!

[LinearX]

I am giving XMT 360 a try, some questions though.

Based on the product page http://www.autogeek.net/xmt-360.html I am using a white pad (I don't own any green pads). In one place in the copy it says use a white pad (in the picture caption) then later a green pad is recommended.

The white pad I'm using is a CCS (as recommended) but I just cannot get the product to 'disappear' no matter how long I go at it. I don't have a problem wiping the residual off (only takes a few moments) and the results are good, but this isn't the described results, so I am not sure what I am doing wrong. I may be imagining things but it seems like it may be the CCS pad depositing a little more product as I go.

Are the abrasives in XMT 360 roughly equivalent to XMT 1 polish (in other words, is it fine to go from XMT 3 to XMT 360 rather than XMT 3 to XMT 1 to XMT 360)?

Finally, what can I expect to stay on top of XMT 360? I've never tried putting glaze and paint sealant on after anything but a regular fine polish.

[Matt@Autogeek]

I am giving XMT 360 a try, some questions though.

Based on the product page http://www.autogeek.net/xmt-360.html I am using a white pad (I don't own any green pads). In one place in the copy it says use a white pad (in the picture caption) then later a green pad is recommended.

The white pad I'm using is a CCS (as recommended) but I just cannot get the product to 'disappear' no matter how long I go at it. I don't have a problem wiping the residual off (only takes a few moments) and the results are good, but this isn't the described results, so I am not sure what I am doing wrong. I may be imagining things but it seems like it may be the CCS pad depositing a little more product as I go.

Are the abrasives in XMT 360 roughly equivalent to XMT 1 polish (in other words, is it fine to go from XMT 3 to XMT 360 rather than XMT 3 to XMT 1 to XMT 360)?

Finally, what can I expect to stay on top of XMT 360? I've never tried putting glaze and paint sealant on after anything but a regular fine polish.

You may be using too much product, or your pad may be saturated. Either or both would cause what you're describing. XMT 360, I would say is equivalent in cut to XMT #2 or near it.

[LinearX]

I used a bit less than the "quarter-sized" amount on the front quarter and it makes a big difference - pretty much nothing to clean up. I was probably dispensing it too quickly, which made a quarter-sized mound rather than a flat quarter.

A #2 cut is good. That makes it pretty appropriate for when a friend needs a car polished/sealed before he puts it up for sale. I haven't tested how long 360 sealant lasts yet, but if it lasts reasonably long it seems like it would be great for keeping a secondary car (that's still not a beater) nice. Would an additional paint sealant (I have some Wolfgang Deep Gloss 3.0), given time to cure, stick to 360? That may be an odd question since 360 is advertised as a sealant also, I'm just wondering if it can be layered for longer protection.

[M3D]

Background: The car is a 2005 ford escape (my "everyday beater" when I'm not driving my M3), but I still like to keep it in top condition.
The car had a coat or two of Klasse Sealant Glaze on it within the past 2 months (put on by me)
Paint was in perfect condition no defects

I park under this tree, I have never had any problems with before
It's a cottonwood and it started dropping these green seed pods
Normally the clear liquid imprint wash off pretty easily with soap and leaves no damage.

Little did I realize that this liquid if given too many days (between 1 -2 weeks) will turn to a dark brown and harden almost like an enamel!
So I clay barred the entire car for like 3 hours to get all these spots off one by one.very annoying.
All the car paint that is "over sheet metal" has no damage what so ever.

However
The clear coat on the rear bumper, (which may be a softer clearcoat?)
has dime sized marks that have tiny micro scratches "crazing" in them which cannot be removed.
I have used the most aggressive yellow pad, even used 3m rubbing compund (the one that removes 1200 sanding scratches)
They have minimized the damage, but these spots still look hazy (due the microcracking) from an angle (not from the compound)

The damage almost looks like when egg protein drys on the clearcoat and cracks it, but the cracks are so much more smaller

So I guess my question is this:
Has anyone experienced this type of problem with cottonwood trees?
Why did it damage only the rear bumper paint (was not a repaint), yet leave the rest of the car ok?
Do bird droppings and certain saps burn through Klasse SG if left more than a few days? Is it just inevitable?
(Paint was perfect for 5 years!!!)

I'm probably crazy for obsessing over these things, because the car definately has an area or too that is worse that these etch marks.
But I'm obsessed with keeping whatever I can in best shape.

I tried to post on autogeek forums, but figured I do it here.
Thanks in advance (I'm bummed, but probably no one else will notice these marks)

[Bobby Autogeek]

Plastic bumpers can be etched by Bug splatter and falling debris from trees very quickly. The best thing to do is to keep a bottle of quick detailer in your vehicle and wipe down the painted area that has been effected by the falling debris as often as possible. The Klasse High Golss Sealant Glaze is a very durable paint sealant but bugs and debris can still penetrate the sealant if the sun bakes it.

[AndrewBall]

Background: The car is a 2005 ford escape (my "everyday beater" when I'm not driving my M3), but I still like to keep it in top condition.
The car had a coat or two of Klasse Sealant Glaze on it within the past 2 months (put on by me)
Paint was in perfect condition no defects

I park under this tree, I have never had any problems with before
It's a cottonwood and it started dropping these green seed pods
Normally the clear liquid imprint wash off pretty easily with soap and leaves no damage.

Little did I realize that this liquid if given too many days (between 1 -2 weeks) will turn to a dark brown and harden almost like an enamel!
So I clay barred the entire car for like 3 hours to get all these spots off one by one.very annoying.
All the car paint that is "over sheet metal" has no damage what so ever.

However
The clear coat on the rear bumper, (which may be a softer clearcoat?)
has dime sized marks that have tiny micro scratches "crazing" in them which cannot be removed.
I have used the most aggressive yellow pad, even used 3m rubbing compund (the one that removes 1200 sanding scratches)
They have minimized the damage, but these spots still look hazy (due the microcracking) from an angle (not from the compound)

The damage almost looks like when egg protein drys on the clearcoat and cracks it, but the cracks are so much more smaller

So I guess my question is this:
Has anyone experienced this type of problem with cottonwood trees?
Why did it damage only the rear bumper paint (was not a repaint), yet leave the rest of the car ok?
Do bird droppings and certain saps burn through Klasse SG if left more than a few days? Is it just inevitable?
(Paint was perfect for 5 years!!!)

I'm probably crazy for obsessing over these things, because the car definately has an area or too that is worse that these etch marks.
But I'm obsessed with keeping whatever I can in best shape.

I tried to post on autogeek forums, but figured I do it here.
Thanks in advance (I'm bummed, but probably no one else will notice these marks)

Plastic bumpers can be etched by Bug splatter and falling debris from trees very quickly. The best thing to do is to keep a bottle of quick detailer in your vehicle and wipe down the painted area that has been effected by the falling debris as often as possible. The Klasse High Golss Sealant Glaze is a very durable paint sealant but bugs and debris can still penetrate the sealant if the sun bakes it.

Wht bobby said is correct. Primers and Paints adhere to bumpers differently then metal and sometimes arent as durable. And sometimes arent even the same paint (most american cars use different color& paint codes for bumpers and trim) this can lead to the problems you described. using klass HG sealant is a great way to fight off the damage but to correct the damage go get some 2000grit paper and foam sanding pad. wet the area down and gently sand it. but not too much. its better to sand it, buff it and realize you didnt do enough then to sand to far into the color layer.

check out this forum from Autogeek to find out more.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...tting-buffing/

[mbonadio]

Ok, I too must jump on the "so much information I'm overwhelmed" bandwagon...

I have a very nice 2004 Z4 - key points: it's black and I live in Arizona!

I've struggled for the past few months to understand what I need to buy to help with the initial and ongoing care of my gem. I've had it professionally detailed 2x but it still has some light scratches and maybe a handful of moderate ones on the trunk that show in direct sunlight. I suspect it needs a little deeper poloishing than he has done.

So I'd like to get these out and then take proper care to keep them out and stop spending $$ on something I can do myself. My detailer told me not to use a detailing mist and micro-fiber to wipe in between washes. Which I have done, but geez, the dust here is brutal after a few days.

So I'd really like some feedback on products/kits to start with. I know I want to get a DA polisher like the Porter or Griot.. But after that I get lost. What's a good suggestion for the proper pads, polishes, and wax? And what's the safe way to remove dust and debris between washes each week. (or should I continue to wash weekly and not worry about it).

Thanks much!

[Bobby Autogeek]

Ok, I too must jump on the "so much information I'm overwhelmed" bandwagon...

I have a very nice 2004 Z4 - key points: it's black and I live in Arizona!

I've struggled for the past few months to understand what I need to buy to help with the initial and ongoing care of my gem. I've had it professionally detailed 2x but it still has some light scratches and maybe a handful of moderate ones on the trunk that show in direct sunlight. I suspect it needs a little deeper poloishing than he has done.

So I'd like to get these out and then take proper care to keep them out and stop spending $$ on something I can do myself. My detailer told me not to use a detailing mist and micro-fiber to wipe in between washes. Which I have done, but geez, the dust here is brutal after a few days.

So I'd really like some feedback on products/kits to start with. I know I want to get a DA polisher like the Porter or Griot.. But after that I get lost. What's a good suggestion for the proper pads, polishes, and wax? And what's the safe way to remove dust and debris between washes each week. (or should I continue to wash weekly and not worry about it).

Thanks much!

Since you have moderate scratches in your Z4 I would use the Meguiars 105 & 205 with a Porter Cable 7424xp to correct the paint surface. Once the paint surface has been corrected I would apply a thin coat of the Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant. Since your Z4 is Black I would apply a thin coat of the Wolfgang Fuzion Estate Wax once the sealant fully cures. The Wax will add more depth to the Black paint. To keep the Z4 clean in between car washes I would use the DP Waterless Auto Wash with a clean Cobra Supreme 530 Microfiber Towel.

http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-meguiars-kit.html
http://www.autogeek.net/wg5500.html
http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-fuzion-wax-sample.html
http://www.autogeek.net/waterless-auto-wash.html
http://www.autogeek.net/supreme-buff...ber-towel.html

[Tlnway]

In order to reduce swirls onto gray and black paints, will be good makita 9227 + megs 105?what kind of pads and rotary speed to use?..(i will start on test panel before)..thanks!

[BMW0890]

Hello.

I have '99 328is with dove gray interior. I have been struggling to remove the black marks on the back of front seats. What method or product would you recommend me to remove those marks?

Thanks.

[Bobby Autogeek]

In order to reduce swirls onto gray and black paints, will be good makita 9227 + megs 105?what kind of pads and rotary speed to use?..(i will start on test panel before)..thanks!

The PC 7424XP or the Flex XC 3401 VRG would be a much safer polisher to use than the Makita. The Meguiars #105 & #205 is a great combo for paint correction. I would use the Lake Country cutting pads and polishing pads. Any questions call me at 1-800-869-3011

Hello.

I have '99 328is with dove gray interior. I have been struggling to remove the black marks on the back of front seats. What method or product would you recommend me to remove those marks?

Thanks.

What caused the Black marks? The Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil and the Prestine Clean are great products for cleaning and protecting BMW leather. If the Black marks are caused by Ink than you can try the Leather Master Care Interior Ink Away.

[drv4show]

What is the best method for cleaning windows? I keep getting small little sparkles on my windows---even with high quality micro-fiber towels. Thanks.

[Bobby Autogeek]

What is the best method for cleaning windows? I keep getting small little sparkles on my windows---even with high quality micro-fiber towels. Thanks.

Small little sparkles? Sounds like fine pitting in the front windshield. If it is pitting you would need to go to a glass repair shop and they can fill them in. The best way to clean the glass is with a good Glass Cleaner (Diamondite Perfect Vision Glass Cleaner) and a Microfiber Glass Towel (Cobra Waffle Weave Glass Towel) If you have any etching in the glass caused by water spots than I would recommend using the Diamondite Glass Repair System Kit with a Rotary Polisher. Any questions call me at 1-800-869-3011

[Jimmy322CF]

How much would it cost to repaint a '96 750iL? its currently white and i wanted to go black. any pricing options or thoughts?

[Bobby Autogeek]

How much would it cost to repaint a '96 750iL? its currently white and i wanted to go black. any pricing options or thoughts?

Autogeek does not paint cars. I would recommend contacting a really good body shop and ask what they charge. Most good body shops start around $3000.00

[stateinspector]

I bought my car used, but the seats looked brand new. But within a few months of my owning it, they've begun to get dirty, and it seems the dye in my jeans is staining the leather. What's the best way to clean this? Also, any way to prevent this in the future?

[John in VA]

Hello.
I have '99 328is with dove gray interior. I have been struggling to remove the black marks on the back of front seats. What method or product would you recommend me to remove those marks?
Thanks.

If you mean you have black marks on the plastic parts, possibly from shoes hitting the trim, I'm interested in hearing how to remove the marks as well!