Ask the Autogeek! Question & Answer Thread

[Matt@Autogeek]

A clay bar is exactly what you need. At a bare minimum, I would wash, clay, and use Klasse All In One to remove light oxidation / restore a nice shine.

[cmzwirner]

1. My lights are pitted. Pitted to the point where i am considering buying new lenses. I have tried sanding with 800, 1000, then 200 grit sandpaper(wet sand) followed by polishing compound, but that seemed to make them more smoky. Is there anything that i can do to resurface badly pitted glass headlights?

2. I have a few scratches here and there. They seem to be above the clearcoat. The first one is on my drivers door, and second one is on my spoiler. It looks like something was dragged across the spoiler. How would i go about fixing this, or making it less noticable?

3. My front bumper is torqued from daily driving on the freeway year round. Is there any way to restore it, or will this require a respray?

Thanks!

[cpalella]

I just finished polishing my car to get all the swirl marks out. I chose to use the Menzerna power lock polymer sealant (my car is black) I just put a coat of the sealant on yesterday. How many coats of sealant should I apply and how long should I wait in between coats?

Also can/should I apply a wax after the sealant? I have Mothers pure caranauba wax; would that be okay?

[Matt@Autogeek]

1. My lights are pitted. Pitted to the point where i am considering buying new lenses. I have tried sanding with 800, 1000, then 200 grit sandpaper(wet sand) followed by polishing compound, but that seemed to make them more smoky. Is there anything that i can do to resurface badly pitted glass headlights?

2. I have a few scratches here and there. They seem to be above the clearcoat. The first one is on my drivers door, and second one is on my spoiler. It looks like something was dragged across the spoiler. How would i go about fixing this, or making it less noticable?

3. My front bumper is torqued from daily driving on the freeway year round. Is there any way to restore it, or will this require a respray?

Thanks!

1) What type of compound did you use, and how did you use it?

2) It sounds like the scratches should be wet-sanded. If you've never done it before, it's best left to someone who has. If you have a junk panel you can practice on, that would be great. I would use 2000 grit and follow with Meguiar's #105 and #205, then wax.

3) This will most likely require a respray. There's no way to really repair bug etching / sand blasting / rock chips.

I just finished polishing my car to get all the swirl marks out. I chose to use the Menzerna power lock polymer sealant (my car is black) I just put a coat of the sealant on yesterday. How many coats of sealant should I apply and how long should I wait in between coats?

Also can/should I apply a wax after the sealant? I have Mothers pure caranauba wax; would that be okay?

Wait 12 hours before applying additional layers to allow the sealant to cure. Anything more than 2-3 is a waste of time/product.

You can top with a wax, but it's really not necessary. I'd probably leave Power Lock by itself.

[cnguyen72]

Hi,

I have tried to get out minor swirls using a Porter Cable 7424, first with Menzerna Final Polish II with a white Lake Country pad, then Menzerna Super Intensive Polish PO83 with an orange light cutting pad with no luck.

Should I try a more intensive polish or invest in a rotary at this point? The above does not seem to remove anything but the finest scratches.

Also, what do you recommend for the scratches from your fingernails underneath the door handles?

Thanks.

[Matt@Autogeek]

Either your paint is hard, or your defects are fairly deep. Try using Meguiar's #105 compound with an orange 5.5" cutting pad on speed 6 and you should get much better results. Follow with Final Polish II on a white pad and you should be left with a perfect, or near perfect finish.

Matt

[Substream]

Hi again. One more question for you Autogeeks
I bought some black "325i" letters/badges to replace the chrome ones on the rear of my car. When I go to remove the chrome ones, I'd like to really clean the paint where they were before the new ones go on. My normal full detailing routine goes: 1. Wash, 2. Clay, 3. Cleanse, 4. Polish, 5. Seal. My question is, if I'm going to detail that area of the body while there are no badges on it, at what point in the process should I stop and stick the new badges on? In other words, should they go on before a wax or sealant, or after?
Thanks!

[Shieldze1025]

What's up Matt,

Just wondering what is the best over-the-counter wheel cleaner and wheel protectant/seal/wax that I can just pick up in an auto store? I've seen that P21 and Sonax get great reviews but they're expensive and you have to order online.

My wheels aren't too bad, this would just be for regular cleaning/maintenance. My car's a 2007 so the OEM brake pads are extremely soft and the wheels are covered in brake dust within two days of cleaning them. Just looking for something to make the cleaning easier.

Thanks man.

[Matt@Autogeek]

Hi again. One more question for you Autogeeks
I bought some black "325i" letters/badges to replace the chrome ones on the rear of my car. When I go to remove the chrome ones, I'd like to really clean the paint where they were before the new ones go on. My normal full detailing routine goes: 1. Wash, 2. Clay, 3. Cleanse, 4. Polish, 5. Seal. My question is, if I'm going to detail that area of the body while there are no badges on it, at what point in the process should I stop and stick the new badges on? In other words, should they go on before a wax or sealant, or after?
Thanks!

You'll want to wash, clay, cleanse/polish, then use rubbing alcohol to strip the surface before applying the new badges. Apply the badges, then wax the rest of the car. You don't want any wax or oil on the surface when the adhesives are stuck on, otherwise they won't be on there very long.

What's up Matt,

Just wondering what is the best over-the-counter wheel cleaner and wheel protectant/seal/wax that I can just pick up in an auto store? I've seen that P21 and Sonax get great reviews but they're expensive and you have to order online.

My wheels aren't too bad, this would just be for regular cleaning/maintenance. My car's a 2007 so the OEM brake pads are extremely soft and the wheels are covered in brake dust within two days of cleaning them. Just looking for something to make the cleaning easier.

Thanks man.

Not too sure about wheel cleaner...it's been a very long time since I last used an OTC wheel cleaner as often times they can be quite harsh, so I don't recommend using them regularly. Any cleaner should be fine to get them clean initially, but I would throw a coat of DP Poli Coat sealant on so that soap and water will clean them without issue in the future. Topping with a good QD or spray wax after each wash will also work wonders...brake dust will not stick.

[Substream]

You'll want to wash, clay, cleanse/polish, then use rubbing alcohol to strip the surface before applying the new badges. Apply the badges, then wax the rest of the car. You don't want any wax or oil on the surface when the adhesives are stuck on, otherwise they won't be on there very long.

Exactly what I suspected. Thank you!

[BenBMW94]

has anyone tried armor all wheel protectant? Does it work like the video haha? Also is a scotch brite (rough green side of sponge) safe for cleaning off rims? I've heard mixed opinions about it.

[Ed@Autogeek]

has anyone tried armor all wheel protectant? Does it work like the video haha? Also is a scotch brite (rough green side of sponge) safe for cleaning off rims? I've heard mixed opinions about it.

This could scratch your rims. Are your rims just dirty, or do they have baked on brake dust.

[BenBMW94]

Baked on brake dust

[Bobby Autogeek]

If there is still baked on brake dust on the wheels after using a good Wheel Cleaner with a Wheel Brush than I would try using a Clay Bar to remove the baked on brake dust. Once the wheels are cleaned than apply a good protectant like the Poorboy's Wheel Sealant or the DP Wheel Glaze.

[abood//M]

Hi,

Would you use the Steam Cleaner on a car before a full detailing ?

[3Guy]

Not sure where to post this, I started a new thread, but wasn't sure if you would see it, so reposted here.

Matt,

I just completed a paint correction on my 13 year old BMW– while I’m a newbie at this, using the information on the AG site and products from AG, I’m really pleased with the results. Now I’m trying to restore the trim. I’ve used products that I got at the local AutoZone / Wal-Mart, but those results were disappointing.

From reading the information on the AG site, I would expect that I need to undress the trim (DP Cleanse-All Exterior Cleaner?); however, the trim seems very faded, so I would think I may need to restore before protecting. While some of the trim is slightly textured, most of the trim is smooth. Assuming you agree that restoration is needed, what would you recommend I use? Black WOW or some other product? If I restore, would you recommend that I also protect? If so, what do you recommend I use based on the restoration product I use?

Thanks for the help!

[Shadetree930]

I use clay.

[Matt@Autogeek]

Hi,

Would you use the Steam Cleaner on a car before a full detailing ?

Sure? I don't know what part of the car you're referring to, but sure, steam can be used to clean just about anything.

Not sure where to post this, I started a new thread, but wasn't sure if you would see it, so reposted here.

Matt,

I just completed a paint correction on my 13 year old BMW– while I’m a newbie at this, using the information on the AG site and products from AG, I’m really pleased with the results. Now I’m trying to restore the trim. I’ve used products that I got at the local AutoZone / Wal-Mart, but those results were disappointing.

From reading the information on the AG site, I would expect that I need to undress the trim (DP Cleanse-All Exterior Cleaner?); however, the trim seems very faded, so I would think I may need to restore before protecting. While some of the trim is slightly textured, most of the trim is smooth. Assuming you agree that restoration is needed, what would you recommend I use? Black WOW or some other product? If I restore, would you recommend that I also protect? If so, what do you recommend I use based on the restoration product I use?

Thanks for the help!

I would give the trim a thorough cleaning with DP Cleanse-All, and then give it a dye treatment with Forever Black. This will be the most permanent solution out there. Black WOW is a great temporary fix, but Forever Black will actually dye the trim and last way longer.

I use clay.

Clay on black trim?

[LittleBlueBMW]

My new house in San Jose has really nasty hard water issues. The sprinklers turned on and now we need to claybar the cars. Which of your inline filter systems is best for taking care of this problem?

[Matt@Autogeek]

The softener cartridge is what you would want, but if the problem is really bad then you might want to look into a CRSpotless system.

[LittleBlueBMW]

I ordered the GHF deluxe system. I hope it solves the problem.

[HeyItsDave]

//sorry for posting this incorrectly in another area originally!! - When I click Edit, I don't see a delete post option. Can a moderator help me with this?//

I searched the forum threads but can't seem to find answers to a couple of newbie question I'm hoping to get help with:

1) I recently acquired 2003.5 M3 and I'm getting ready to do my first detail on it. I'm thinking of going with Klasse over Zaino, because I want a Carnuba topper simply for higher bird-bomb and environmental protection. Other posts here lead me to believe Zaino lasts longer than Klasse, but I'm more interested in paint protection vice the shine/duration advantage I sense Zaino provides. Is this the right thinking?

2) I read here alot about Leatherique, but since my seats are still in wonderful condition, I'm sensing that it may not be the right product. What should I use to just clean and protect seats already in great shape? Zaino? LeatherMasters?

3) I hear alot in these forums about care for black or rubber trim. My car has trim that is the same color (and texture) as the paint around it. I've learned alot in these forums about caring for the metal-hosted paint on the body and the importance of masking off trim before I polish. But since I have no black trim on the car, should I just hand polish the trim and bumpers using the same products (Klasse AIO + SG) I plan to use on the painted metal body parts? If so, should I still mask off the painted trim? Or should I be using 303 or similar on the bumpers and trim (since they're not metal)?

4) With paint in great shape (Charcoal Grey - I can't see swirls no matter the lighting, angle, etc). I hadn't planned on using a PC to machine it and was going to do both Klasse AIO and SG by hand after claying. Is this the right idea? Or should I just go to SG after clay? Or should one ALWAYS do at least one application of AIO before SG? I just dont want to take off some clearcoat if I dont even see any swirls or anything....

5) I've read references here to BMW paint being "soft". What should that mean to me in how I care for the paint? Is it a general reference to using less cut on pads and polishes?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Dave

[540 guy]

Any tips in mind for this?

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1495944

Thanks in advance

[Matt@Autogeek]

//sorry for posting this incorrectly in another area originally!! - When I click Edit, I don't see a delete post option. Can a moderator help me with this?//

I searched the forum threads but can't seem to find answers to a couple of newbie question I'm hoping to get help with:

1) I recently acquired 2003.5 M3 and I'm getting ready to do my first detail on it. I'm thinking of going with Klasse over Zaino, because I want a Carnuba topper simply for higher bird-bomb and environmental protection. Other posts here lead me to believe Zaino lasts longer than Klasse, but I'm more interested in paint protection vice the shine/duration advantage I sense Zaino provides. Is this the right thinking?

2) I read here alot about Leatherique, but since my seats are still in wonderful condition, I'm sensing that it may not be the right product. What should I use to just clean and protect seats already in great shape? Zaino? LeatherMasters?

3) I hear alot in these forums about care for black or rubber trim. My car has trim that is the same color (and texture) as the paint around it. I've learned alot in these forums about caring for the metal-hosted paint on the body and the importance of masking off trim before I polish. But since I have no black trim on the car, should I just hand polish the trim and bumpers using the same products (Klasse AIO + SG) I plan to use on the painted metal body parts? If so, should I still mask off the painted trim? Or should I be using 303 or similar on the bumpers and trim (since they're not metal)?

4) With paint in great shape (Charcoal Grey - I can't see swirls no matter the lighting, angle, etc). I hadn't planned on using a PC to machine it and was going to do both Klasse AIO and SG by hand after claying. Is this the right idea? Or should I just go to SG after clay? Or should one ALWAYS do at least one application of AIO before SG? I just dont want to take off some clearcoat if I dont even see any swirls or anything....

5) I've read references here to BMW paint being "soft". What should that mean to me in how I care for the paint? Is it a general reference to using less cut on pads and polishes?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Dave

1) You probably won't see a difference in looks between the two. Klasse is more durable IMO with a few layers. It's one of the few products I believe can truly be layered. I've not had personal luck in layering Zaino. If you want straight up durability/protection, stick with a few layers of Klasse SG.

2) Nothing wrong with using Leatherique on seats that are fairly new. Think of it as preventive maintenance. I recommend using it 1-2x a year, and use Pinnacle or 1Z Leather Care once a month.

3) Don't worry about the material that's painted over. Worry about the surface itself - if it's painted like the other areas, treat it exactly the same.

4) You can't remove clearcoat with AIO since it is non abrasive. I always recommend using it before SG for proper bonding and maximum durability/shine. You'll be surprised at how easy it is to use and how nice it leaves the finish.

5) Charcoal grey shouldn't be soft. The only real "soft" color is Jet Black. Metallics tend to be a bit harder, so I wouldn't even worry about it. Especially since you're using non abrasive products by hand.

Any tips in mind for this?

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1495944

Thanks in advance

Polishing process looks good, but I'd use a different wax. Mother's Carnauba won't last very long, but if you don't mind re applying once a month, then you'll be fine with it. Something like Wolfgang sealant or DP Poli Coat will last WAY longer and be even easier to use.

[Substream]

Hey again, Autogeeks. Another question!
My E36 has a distinctive "old car" smell inside. I don't know if it's the old leather or the stuffing inside the seats or any of the other old materials being roasted by the Texas heat every day. It's not really a bad smell, but when I get into the car when it's hot out, it only takes minutes for it to soak into my clothes and I get out smelling like an old car all day. Would either or both the odor eliminating products you recommended earlier in this thread be effective on this smell? Or something else?
Thanks!