Eagle one Nanowax and Mequires Qucik Detail. The Mequires for much longer time and the EagleOne just recently. I got the same results on my 911 with the Mequries.
I think I was just trying to wipe the dust off withe the MF towel. Then after that I used the spray.
I would suggest spraying the panel first rather than wiping while it's dry. If it's very dusty, use a spray like Poorboys Spray N Wipe Waterless Wash
Poorboys Spray & Wipe
Matt I have a new z4 Black The dealer waxed it before I picked it up . I washed it and put some carnuba wax I purchased pinnacle signiture 11 ,two bucket system ,polishing cloths ,micro fiber towels from auto geek . Im wondering if I should bring the car to somplace like a ziebart to have a diamond gloss finish put on it and then continue to wax it with carnuba wax . Or should I get a sealer and do it myself . I havent purchased an orbital polisher yet . The dealer also didnt do a great job for the first time either there was glue residue on the bottom of the doors from the shipping wrappers . Also there are some minor swirls in the paint in a couple spots . I was thinking that a professional detailer could get the initial finish into top shape and id continue to maintain it What advise can you give me .
I would suggest doing everything yourself. I'm not familiar with ziebart but if it's a paint sealant, go with Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0. You'll find it easy to use and it offers excellent results.
For glue residue, use Meguiars Body Solvent. It's paintwork safe and removes the residue. Minor swirls can be removed by polishing with an orbital or dual action polisher with foam pads and a good swirl remover, followed by a finishing polish, then apply the paint sealant.
Does the diamondite glass cream really fix pitting? I would like to try it on my headlights but I am skeptical. Are there any before and after shots anywhere besides the one on your site for the kit?
Ryan
Would I just use a carnuba wax when needed after this > is there a point where the wax needs to be removed ?
Roy
Are the headlight covers glass? Most late model cars today are actually polycarbonate.
If they are glass, you would need the DIA-4000 Diamondite Glass Repair Kit along with a rotary polisher to resurface the glass and remove the pitting. If they are polycarbonate (plastic), you would need to do wetsnading fist to level the surface and remove the pitting, then follow up by polishing and restore with the DIA-1000 Clear Plastic kit for Headlight Lenses
Yes, you can top the Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 with a paste wax if you like or you can apply multiple layers of the sealant.
Wax and sealant is removed whenever you you a swirl remover or a paint cleaning polish, then you can reapply the sealant or wax.
Last edited by Dwayne@Autogeek; 11-19-2009 at 12:25 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
For my Brand New 2010 335i Alpine White from the factory
The only detailing I've done was on used cars that needed the detailing due to minor swirls and color fading. What is the best way to detail a Brand New Car and when? I want to protect the paint but to also maintain or enhance the 'fresh off the lot' gloss/mirror finish as much as I can, especially on Alpine White.
For a Brand New car would I:
1. Wash
2. Clay
3. Sealant
4. Carnuba Wax
Products I currently own - and please make product suggestions that are easy on the wallet
- Meguiars car wash gel, mitts, and microfiber towels
- Mequiars Smooth Surface clay kit
- Mequiars Deep Crystal system polish
- Meguiars NXT 2.0 TechWax
And since its brand new, should I apply everything by hand?
I don't plan on being a detail professional and start a business, but want to have the best products for the price and quality so any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks in advance!!
- Jeremy -
2006 325I | Arktis Metallic | Premium + Sport | 6MT | 20% Tint | Charcoal Delete
For a Brand New car would I:
1. Wash
2. Clay
3. Sealant
4. Carnuba Wax
This is correct. It's always a good practice to get started right. You never know what was on the paint during the transit from the factory to the dealer and also what the dealer may have applied unless you purchase a car that still has plastic film on it.
Products I currently own - and please make product suggestions that are easy on the wallet
- Meguiars car wash gel, mitts, and microfiber towels
- Mequiars Smooth Surface clay kit
- Mequiars Deep Crystal system polish
- Meguiars NXT 2.0 TechWax
Meguiars makes nice quality, user friendly products. Thee will work fine for you.
And since its brand new, should I apply everything by hand?
In my opinion, an orbital polisher such as the Porter Cable 7424XP allows you to apply wax and sealant more thin and even than doing so by hand.
What product is best to use on chrome trim to protect it or to removal swirls? (trim as like the window trims)
thanks,
- Jeremy -
2006 325I | Arktis Metallic | Premium + Sport | 6MT | 20% Tint | Charcoal Delete
If it is real chrome, use any metal polish such as Menzerna Polishing Cream Metal Polish
If is is plastic that looks like chrome, I like the Duragloss Plastic Polish.
Thanks Dwayne, and several more questions before I make some purchases from you guys:
Do I work the P21S Paintwork Cleanser into the paint like a polish where it almost disappears? Or treat this like a sealant and work it only enough to get a good layer on?
Any recommedations for the best sealant/wax combo for Alpine and Ice Silver paints?
Is the P21S Carnuba Wax a hard bar type wax or a paste? If it's a paste, whats the recommended way to apply to an LC pad?
Would the 303 Aerospace Protectant be safe for Alcantera seats?
And any input on a previous thread would help also: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1351173
This is the setup I'm going with (again for brand new vehicles straight from the factory):
1. P21S Bodywork Conditioning Shampoo and Wheel Gel/Cleaner
2. Meguiars Clay bar kit
3. P21S Gloss Enhancing paintwork Cleanser
4. Klasse SG or Wolfgang Deep Glass Paint Sealant
5. P21S Carnuba Wax
Thanks in advance!!
Last edited by jbnery6465; 11-24-2009 at 04:56 PM.
- Jeremy -
2006 325I | Arktis Metallic | Premium + Sport | 6MT | 20% Tint | Charcoal Delete
Do I work the P21S Paintwork [COLOR=blue ! important][COLOR=blue ! important]Cleanser[/COLOR][/COLOR] into the paint like a polish where it almost disappears? Or treat this like a sealant and work it only enough to get a good layer on? Just wipe on, work in while still wet to benefit from the cleaning and wipe right off before it dries.
Any recommedations for the best sealant/wax combo for Alpine and Ice Silver paints? Klasse and P21S is a great choice for light colors, including white and silver.
Is the P21S Carnuba Wax a hard bar type wax or a paste? If it's a paste, whats the recommended way to apply to an LC pad?
Would the 303 Aerospace Protectant be safe for Alcantera seats?
I checked the Alcantara website for maintenance instructions and did not see that they recommend a protectant http://www.alcantara.com/en_US/exper...rdinaria.shtml
And any input on a previous thread would help also: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1351173
This is the setup I'm going with (again for brand new vehicles str
aight from the factory):
1. P21S Bodywork Conditioning Shampoo and Wheel Gel/Cleaner
2. Meguiars Clay bar kit
3. P21S Gloss Enhancing paintwork Cleanser
4. Klasse SG or Wolfgang Deep Glass Paint Sealant
5. P21S Carnuba Wax
I would substitue Klasse All In One in place of the P21S Paintwork Cleanser. In addition to cleaning the paint, Klasse AIO also has acrylic polymers that set up a base for the High Gloss Sealant Glaze to bond to.
And say after 6 months when it's time to re-apply the Carnauba:
- Best way to strip off existing Carnauba? Clay, CG Citrus Wash, etc?
- Would this strip off any sealant also? What is the best way to strip sealant when I need to do a full detail after a year?
- Jeremy -
2006 325I | Arktis Metallic | Premium + Sport | 6MT | 20% Tint | Charcoal Delete
I was wondering which would go better after applying Poorboy's EX Sealant on a dark colored car, Poorboy's Natty Paste Wax Blue or S100 Carnauba Wax. Thanks for the help.
How do i clean my car with leaving streaky or with spots
Hi, I'm back again with a few more questions about de-badging. I plan on removing the chrome "325i" bade from my car and replacing it with a black badge instead.
My main concern is obviously not damaging the paint. Here are my questions:
1. Will using a heat gun to loosen up the emblems cause any short- or long-term damage to the paint?
2. What product would you spray around the emblems to start to loosen the adhesive? Goo-Gone? WD-40? Some kind of bug and tar remover?
3. What product would you recommend to remove left-behind adhesive from the paint without damaging it? 3M Adhesive Remover?
4. Should the paint be "detailed" after removing the old emblems and before applying the new ones? Specifically, should wax or sealant be applied, or will it interfere with adhesive? It just seems like having the emblems off would be a great time to work on paint that you never get a chance to clean.
Thanks a lot!
1. Will using a [COLOR=blue ! important][COLOR=blue ! important]heat [COLOR=blue ! important]gun[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR]
to loosen up the emblems cause any short- or long-term damage to the paint?
Paint can withstand a lot of heat. Think of how hot darl paint gets in the summer when parked in direct sunlight. Too hot to touch. Just be careful and let common sense prevail when using the heat gun. Take your time and inspect the area as you go.
2. What product would you spray around the emblems to start to loosen the adhesive? Goo-Gone? WD-40? Some kind of bug and tar remover?
I would use Stoner Xenit. It isn't as aggressive as other solvernst and is safe for paint.
3. What product would you recommend to remove left-behind adhesive from the paint without damaging it? [COLOR=blue ! important][COLOR=blue ! important]3M[/COLOR][/COLOR] Adhesive Remover?
I would use the Xenit for this as well.
4. Should the paint be "detailed" after removing the old emblems and before applying the new ones? Specifically, should wax or sealant be applied, or will it interfere with adhesive? It just seems like having the emblems off would be a great time to work on paint that you never get a chance to clean.
I would clean the paint and prep the area where adhesive will be applied with some alcohol to ensure a good bond.
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