What did you do to your E30 today?

[clarkitect]

Compression tested this afternoon in honor of our presidents.

Not too bad really, thought it’d be worse. One outlier with leaky valves I guess.

[H.J. 1981]

About to do the Inspection II service (2 years or 24.000 miles service) to my 325i.

- All fluids and oils to be replaced (engine, coolant, transmission, differential, brake system and steering system)
- Replace the pan gasket and use new oil pan bolts
- New brake discs and pads all round
- All new filters (air, oil and fuel).

I am dropping the subframe, since i wish to replace the LCABs, access the pan and replace the springs all round and use E90 drop hats.

Since coolant is being replaced, i am replacing the intake manifold gaskets and studs/nuts, since 2 years ago i lost a stud and used a bolt instead, noticed how most of the factory studs had bad threads, so all that is being replaced.

Since the intake is off, i forgot to install a new brake booster gasket to the firewall, and since the brake fluid is being replaced, might as well tackle this.

The steering pump is shot, picked up a used ZF pump with the mounting brackets (Vickers is currently in the car) and got a BMW reseal kit for the ZF pump, system will be flushed and new reservoir going in.

Remove and clean some minor black rubbish in the coolant expansion tank.

Adjust the valve clearance, also new valve cover studs and nuts.

Hopefully after this, the car would need just a regular oil change for the next 2 years/24.000 miles (along with lubricating/adjusting components).

All new front suspension hardware orders (control arm nuts, tie rod nuts, strut nuts etc etc). Lots of work, fingers crossed.

[H.J. 1981]

Lots of work in 1 and a half days.

Yesterday evening, new rear brake discs and pads. Discs are 10mm thick and pads are well above min spec, but i have not touched them since 3 years. Replaced the diff fluid and transmission fluid. Diff fluid came out nice and almost like new, transmission fluid a bit darker but not bad. Also replaced the rear springs.

Today, big work done. The front subframe was removed, chasing a vibration issue at 160kph and needed to replace the LCAB, front springs and oil pan gasket, along with new front discs and pads. I cleaned and checked the subframe for cracks, found none (good news). Replaced the pan gasket, cleaned the pump strainer and torqued everything down correcly. LCAB-ings (synthetic rubber) pushed in, front springs are in. Front brakes are 21.7mm thick, so just 0.3mm above min thickness.

Also replaced the front wheel bearing nut, since i was unsure how much NM was on those nuts. Using a deflector torque wrench, i believe it was about 40-50nm shy of the 290-300nm spec.

Tomorrow wrestling the steering rack in, then flush the coolant system, replace intake manifold studs/nuts and gaskets. Then replace the brake booster gasket, flush the brake system and adjust pedal and bleed.

Two things i absolutely hate about this E30, the stock rubber LCAB are a PITA to press into the control arms, as well as to remove them, never again would i use them.

Steering shaft, removing it is a pig, i was never able to push it low enough to match the groove in the pinion for the pinch bolt. Managed to do it outside of the car.

tried to mount a ZF pump, sadly, a lot of the mounting brackets are incorrect, it maybe had came off a 5 series of the era. So i shall attempt to rebuild the Vickers pump next month (and a new ATF container).

Fingers crossed, i double, tripled and quadrupled checked all torque numbers, especially on the oil pan, that thing always leaked no matter what i did, used a new 1/4" torque wrench to slowly torque everything (hand tight first, then 1/2 torque then final torque).

Tomorrow, the saga continues!

[clarkitect]

Lots of work in 1 and a half days.

Yesterday evening, new rear brake discs and pads. Discs are 10mm thick and pads are well above min spec, but i have not touched them since 3 years. Replaced the diff fluid and transmission fluid. Diff fluid came out nice and almost like new, transmission fluid a bit darker but not bad. Also replaced the rear springs.

Today, big work done. The front subframe was removed, chasing a vibration issue at 160kph and needed to replace the LCAB, front springs and oil pan gasket, along with new front discs and pads. I cleaned and checked the subframe for cracks, found none (good news). Replaced the pan gasket, cleaned the pump strainer and torqued everything down correcly. LCAB-ings (synthetic rubber) pushed in, front springs are in. Front brakes are 21.7mm thick, so just 0.3mm above min thickness.

Also replaced the front wheel bearing nut, since i was unsure how much NM was on those nuts. Using a deflector torque wrench, i believe it was about 40-50nm shy of the 290-300nm spec.

Tomorrow wrestling the steering rack in, then flush the coolant system, replace intake manifold studs/nuts and gaskets. Then replace the brake booster gasket, flush the brake system and adjust pedal and bleed.

Two things i absolutely hate about this E30, the stock rubber LCAB are a PITA to press into the control arms, as well as to remove them, never again would i use them.

Steering shaft, removing it is a pig, i was never able to push it low enough to match the groove in the pinion for the pinch bolt. Managed to do it outside of the car.

tried to mount a ZF pump, sadly, a lot of the mounting brackets are incorrect, it maybe had came off a 5 series of the era. So i shall attempt to rebuild the Vickers pump next month (and a new ATF container).

Fingers crossed, i double, tripled and quadrupled checked all torque numbers, especially on the oil pan, that thing always leaked no matter what i did, used a new 1/4" torque wrench to slowly torque everything (hand tight first, then 1/2 torque then final torque).

Tomorrow, the saga continues!

That steering linkage is a total pain! Nice work, I’m finishing up similar scope of work. Been at it since November though haha, you’re cruising.

[H.J. 1981]

That steering linkage is a total pain! Nice work, I’m finishing up similar scope of work. Been at it since November though haha, you’re cruising.

It truly is, i was not able to wrestle the rack in, was faced with either bending the tabs or dropping the sub frame. Since everything was already bolted, i slowly started to bend the tabs till i managed to get the rack in. I hated doing it, really, but spending another hour lowering the sub-frame was not an option.

I then found all the ball joints, both control arms and tie rods, to be binding. No way able to re-position them by hand and one of the tie rods had really bad threads, so i bite the billet and ordered new TRW tie rods and Lemförder control arms and called it a day.

Car is sitting at the DIY workshop, i paid in advanced, and hopefully will get all the parts on Friday (i am working between Tuesdays and Fridays and have just the weekend free to work on the car). It is the first time in 3 years of ownership, the car will sit for numerous days waiting for parts, it is my only car and my daily (i travel to work via train so its acceptable). I also ordered a new Vickers PS pump reseal kit, hopefully that would fix my weird noise making pump.

Saturday, will continue the saga (coolant, intake, adjust the valves, brake system etc).

[H.J. 1981]

Everything buttoned up, filled her up with coolant, ps fluid, engine oil....messed around with the CPS sensor to make sure i got proper clearance.

Cranked the car with the coil unplugged to build oil pressure, once the light was out i fired up the car.

It idled at maybe 300 rpms, so i wiggled the cps sensor, and now it cranks and does not fire.

We got spark and fuel but no start, since i messed around with the cps and only the cps, i guess i may have destroyed it (i did force a feeler gauge between the sensor and the crank teeth, felt it "push" the sensor a bit).

New sensor ordered, car is still sitting at the DIY workshop, hopefully the part arrives on Thursday (my day off) and can swap it out and fire up the old girl.

Will also check the connections once again, intake was off so there is always a chance a plug is not connected or what have you.

[superj]

i think when my cps was messed up, it would idle really low like that and if i wiggled it, it would change, just like yours does. hopefully that's it

[H.J. 1981]

i think when my cps was messed up, it would idle really low like that and if i wiggled it, it would change, just like yours does. hopefully that's it

New CPS, tested at 530 Ohms and installed, still no start. Checked every tiny connector, sensor etc and no start.

Pulled plugs, 1 to 3 have a light coat of fuel, 4 to 6 are just plain fouled black. Since i installed different injectors, maybe some were just staying open or something. Switched them around and still nothing.

It cranks and one can hear it about to fire, but nothing happens. Almost as if there is a no spark issue. Spark plugs 1-3 (when grounded on the valve cover) spark, then sadly i had to stop there. I am guessing, the first set of injectors fouled plugs 4-6 causing both injector issue and fouling. So Sunday i shall install older plugs and give it ago again, 4-6 are just done for....they are that fouled.

[superj]

Wow

[H.J. 1981]

Wow

Nah, those injectors were new, used for a bit and sat on a shelf for months and months so...probably the cause.

What i am amazed by, is how noob-minded people are. "Oh its an E30, it is easy to fix", they start poking around the most idiotic areas (checking battery leads and oil level for a no start issue) and walk away if their "help" did not help.

E30 maybe an easy car to work on, but the amount of idiots in this world with little to no experience is....well they make climbing mount Everest look easy, compared to dealing with them.

[superj]

I use to be a shop supervisor for a helicopter transmission repair shop.

I totally know what you are saying.

[H.J. 1981]

So i pulled everything appart and tested again.

All sensors (CPS, TPS, Blue Coolant Temp, Coil, Injectors etc) are within factory specs.

I pulled the DME plug and tested to compare, everything is bang on.

So i pulled the plugs again, lightly covered in fuel (shows there is no issue with the fuel system) but then i grounded them on the valve cover and cranked over the engine and watch for spark.

Plugs 1,2,4 and 5 are weak, barely making a spark. Plugs 3 and 6 are surprisingly big and very noticeable, hence why i noticed 1,2,4 and 5 being weak. The ignition system is 3 years old, wires are still excellent (all Bosch components). I have the OE coil in the basement somewhere, tried to remove the cap but it is somehow stuck on the rotor and i broke a piece of it off. So i will be getting a new Cap and Rotor (bremi brand this time, OE wires were Bremi surprisingly).

If i find the OE coil, i shall swap that as well, it does seem like an ignition issue when cranking. Weird since i never touched it when doing the oil pan and front end. If that does not fix the issue....i do not know what else it could be.

[superj]

weird that only two are firing brightly. really weird

[H.J. 1981]

weird that only two are firing brightly. really weird

Swapped the coil, removed the cap and rotor, everything is fine.

We called a guy who currently owns 4 E30s (various models) and he came over. I explained everything to him, and he insists that the engine is flooded. He directed me to the exhaust, how it just stinks of fuel, removed the plugs, coated in fuel and how it also just loaded with fuel vapours. We removed the plugs and cleaned them, removed the pump relay and cranked the engine without plugs to "force fuel out", it would not fire up.

So the car has been towed home, plugs removed and some towels to prevent debris from getting in. They told me to leave it for a few days, let the fuel vap away and try again.

If that does not work, it is either the AFM or a defective DME. We definately have fuel and spark, and the engine wants to fire up...something is holding it back.

[H.J. 1981]

Looks like i either have a dying fuel pump, bad DME relay or bad DME.

Jumping the fuel pump relay activates the pump and i get 3 bar both at the fuel rail and right after the pump.

With the ignition on, nothing comes from the pump (no sounds, i removed the rear seat and the pump cover). When cranking, again no noises from the rear. I know i should check for voltage while cranking, but i am in a hurry.

Spark plugs are a bit wet with fuel, we got spark......what do you suspect? I suspect no power to pump when cranking or the pump is weak when cranking.....

[H.J. 1981]

Engine was acting funny the last few days, driving 1.200 kms (around 750 miles) a week is a bit straining on any machine.

Felt like a fueling issue, so i replaced the injectors with a new-old set i have laying around (the new style bosch plastic housing ones), also re-adjusted the throttle plate and tps and engine runs just fine.

Small mis fire, but i do have a vacuum leak from the oil pan gasket, which i am still trying to understand despite being replaced 8 times it is leaking.

[superj]

that's a bunch of miles

[H.J. 1981]

Found a pesky vacuum leak, the long studs for the intake manifold is just spinning and not allowing the nut to get torqued down correctly.I tried a thread chaser, no go, tried a tap and no go.

So, tomorrow i shall be carefully drilling and using a helicoil. Shame....the head is brand new from the PO, amazing how even after 3 years of ownership, i am still finding mistakes and issues made by the PO's shop.

[82eye]

got my head back.
time to clear out the garage and restart the project.

engine is coming together and car is getting booked for body and paint.
looking for on the road next yr.

[H.J. 1981]

Rebuilt the driveshaft completely (well as much as anyone can do in a workshop).

The two factory white dots for both half's were NOT lined up, around 10 degrees off, which would explain the vibrations. I replaced the clutch 3 years ago and never split the driveshaft, this is the handy work of the POs workshop striking again.

The rear u-join is binding ever so slightly, but no play. Maybe in winter when i do the rear sub frame i shall send the shaft out for new u-joints and balancing (i found a BMW specific driveshaft shop inside Munich). Oh and i removed the factory vibration damper on the driveshaft, annoying thing that is.

New front bushing, front guibo, middle bearing, front and rear dust shields, new c-clip. new locking nut, washer, bushing and all new bolts/nuts. The front dust shield for the bearing was missing, and the collar nut rubber bushing was just old and hard.

90% of the vibrations are gone, very minor vibrations at 160-180kph (around 100-120mph). After checking the diff, i found no play on the input or output sides. Tested the axles, and found play on both driver and passenger side, specifically at the outer CV joints. So i am ordering new SKF axles, no point in re-greasing the old ones.

Also one or more injectors failed, so new ones will be ordered. Then i shall start some minor interior work and exterior work.

Wanted to drop the rear sub frame and do all the bushings, brake lines etc but i got to watch my budget since i am moving. It will be pushed to a winter project.

[superj]

you would think the previous owner would have noticed the vibrations immediately after doing whatever work that required the driveshaft to come out.

[H.J. 1981]

you would think the previous owner would have noticed the vibrations immediately after doing whatever work that required the driveshaft to come out.

He barely covered 3,000 kms in 5 years of ownership, and all city driving. The vibrations kick in at highway speeds.

I ordered new injectors and new SPIDAN rebuilt driveshafts (no core for some reason). Apparently the cheap GSP driveshafts constantly fall apart, the SKF shafts are problematic with size (too short, incorrect ABS teeth and different differential covers). SPIDAN rebuilds, tests and balanced OE ones, they are guaranteed to fit.

Due to budget, i might not drop the rear sub frame, but work on the rust spots, AC system and body (minor paint repair and dents). Warm weather and sun shine to work on rust/body parts is an opportunity.

If budget allows, i shall install softer shocks (the B4s on the shit roads i drive on with M-Sport suspension are too harsh inkl. beefy front and rear factory sway bars) and drop the sub frame.....we shall see.

[H.J. 1981]

Lots of work done since last week.

Replaced both rear axles with rebuilt ones (no core charge), i searched around in Germany and the original axles are apparently pretty expensive when new. Something to do with current new/rebuilt ones being finicky with fitment and issues, holding onto the originals, i am sure some point in the future i would find a shop to rebuild them.

Re-sealed and upgraded the ac system, i did this 2 years ago and had two small leaks (condenser exit and expansion valve). Got a new expansion valve and fought for 2 hours to get the lines connected properly, due to the angle of the hoses and valve, i was almost always about to cross thread the pipes, so it took me a very long time to get things lined up and installed smoothly. Replaced the condenser, same thing with the lines, took my time and got things fitted without issues. Sadly the old condenser had a rust spot on the lines, so i removed the condenser with the lines attached and on a bench and bench grip had to use some hulk strength to remove them. New receiver/dryer, all new o-rings.

I was shocked to find around 20ml-30ml of oil and UV leak detector in the compressor, i filled it to 180ml 2 years ago and had a shop confirm the oil level. Looks like an open ac system just evaporated the oil. Added a bigger and lighter spal fan, connected it to the resistor, but only one speed comes on, i need to do some research on this, if it is possible to either just bypass the system and make it run on max speed only or if i could get two speeds, but it comes on so im "safe" for now. The system is oil free and sealed, so i will let a shop charge and fill the system (including oil).

Water pump is making noise when cold, so new timing belt, tensioner and pump (and gasket) ordered, already have 20L of coolant in the basement.

I am very unhappy with hose all the wiring behind the dash is, may get some tesla tape and re-do that mess at some point, but i really rather get the car mechanically sorted first. Still need to adjust the brake pedal and clutch pedal (new booster, master cylinder and clutch cylinder and slave) feels like the pedals are way too high.

Replaced the injectors (brand new Bosch), that low rpm vibration is now gone as i suspected.

[superj]

good on the weird vibrations being gone but a bummer about the ac stuff and the fan only working on one setting

- - - Updated - - -

i had mine running on only one speed when i was using it in place of the engine driven fan. i just put a jumper wire at the temp sensor in the radiator and the electric fan went to high

[H.J. 1981]

good on the weird vibrations being gone but a bummer about the ac stuff and the fan only working on one setting

- - - Updated - - -

i had mine running on only one speed when i was using it in place of the engine driven fan. i just put a jumper wire at the temp sensor in the radiator and the electric fan went to high

Some research shows that the SPAL fan is single speed, basically hook it up to run in low or high speed and no factory resistors. I may go back to the OE fan setup instead.