Go for the gusto!
04M3 TiAg 69k slick-top 3 pedal
99M3 Cosmos 61k S50B32 euro 6Spd
88M3 AW 43k miles Project FS
WTB: 3.5" Eurosport/Conforti CAI
Did the driver side door lock rebuild kit (51219061343) assembly and installation. Nice I had my notes from the last time I had to do this (September 2010).
On Christ the solid Rock I stand, all other ground is sinking sand. (Edward Mote 1797-1874)
New motor mounts and finally legal plates amd stickers
Spent two hours a few days ago washing, claying and waxing the car.
Loads of scratches, but id rather have a decontaminated paint that is protected than exposed. It is not that bad, in terms of scratches. I am not looking for perfection, it is a daily and parked outside exposed to all the elements, but a nice compounding would not hurt.
I doubled checked the oil pan gasket i replaced 3 months ago, tiny tiny wet area in the passenger side corner again, this time all the bolts were pretty loose. So i hand tightened them all, cleaned the area and i hope next inspection it is bone dry.
I ordered another pan gasket to be safe, this time it is an AJUSA brand, surprisingly it is a paper gasket for the M20B25 NOT cork which is a huge deal for me.
The long stud for the intake manifold has messed up threads in the head, probably causing a small leak. New gaskets arrived today, along with thread repair/helicoil kit and some Curil T to be on the safe side.
I need to do the driver's side lock rebuild and finally fix the central locking system, then replace the SI batteries and figure out why the recirculation flaps are not working.
Then move on to repairing the dents, small paint here and there, finally finish with a good compounding and be done with the car being actually restored to very good condition and everything working.
Last edited by H.J. 1981; 04-18-2020 at 09:49 AM.
Fixed a fuel leak in 5 minutes that I've procrastinated fixing and drove her after sitting for over a year. Fired right up.
1989 325is 5MT 200k miles
Removed the front and rear bumpers (late model) Removed the trim pieces and will deep clean everything and refinish the black parts.
we took the cat back straight pipe off and put a borla in place of where the original muffler would have been. works great and sounds great
No e30s again.
Replaced the rubber fuel hose that connects the top of the fuel pump to the hard fuel line, it kept leaking fuel the last few days. new hose clamp did not fix it, also snipping a piece of with a new clamp did not fix it, so i just replaced that whole hose with a new one, seems to fix the leak.
Replaced both digital clock (9 button) bulbs, it is nice and bright now.
Tomorrow, will attempt to check the a/c recirculation, why it is not working and replace the SI batteries.
Had an independent garage replace the steering rack, and I finished the job by replacing the fluid reservoir. It helps to undo the 10mm bolt securing the reservoir bracket to the strut tower as well as unclip and push the top half of the airbox out of the way. Then you're able to push the old reservoir inward enough for easy access to the hose clamps.
On Christ the solid Rock I stand, all other ground is sinking sand. (Edward Mote 1797-1874)
Maybe not today exactly but this week, I swapped out the blue door cards for black and reupholstered the back seats with Lseat leather. Waiting on hog rings so I can do the front seats. Today I put her up on jack stands so I can check out the cause of why a slight shudder on acceleration has turned into a thunk, thunk, thunk... I’ve got a new flex ring and driveline center support bearing that should be here tomorrow, if that’s not the problem, I’m sure they could use replacement anyways.
A smooth sea never made a skillful sailor.
IG @Echo_3zero
that will fix your problem. its the guibo and csb that cause that issue
No e30s again.
Valves re-adjusted yesterday, intake valves on 5 cylinders were way too tight, feeler gauge would not slide in.
Re-adjusted the TB stop screw and TPS, she idles absolutely great now, engine feels more "eager" to get going.
Replaced the fuel pump rubber hose (the short hose that leads to the hardline), it just kept leaking over and over, so i just replaced that small line with a good quality hose i had laying around, no more leaks.
Sadly there is a small AC leak from the expansion valve, i replaced those o-rings twice now (OE BMW seals once i converted to R134a and a second time due to it leaking again), i may try an aftermarket AC o-ring kit instead, not sure why it is leaking there constantly.
The micro switch metal plat for the central locking finally arrived, so a new door lock and MS plate will go in soon.
try r290 instead of r134. molecules are larger so they don't leak out of the barrier hoses and O-rings like r134.
I use it but I don't buy it using the r number designation. I buy it in the camping section at the local store in the green little cannisters for camping stoves. propane
my son's 86 325 ac system blows at a hair over 46 degrees. my truck and my other son's jeep both blow at about 50 degrees at the vent
No e30s again.
Finally fixed the central locking. Sadly it was a bit of a "hassel" since my E30 does not have the door openings or holes from the factory to access the microswitch/lock assembly. So the glass came out, as well as the regulator (really 3 bolts and 2 nuts and lift off).
Rebuilt the lock cylinder, the arm was shattered, which explains why i can unlock but not lock the door. I also replaced the metal plate/piece on the microswitch, the original was fine but since i had a new one, may as well replace it.
Sadly, this did not fix the CL issue, i did check everything else before. But then i noticed smoke and a small fire coming from inside the door. Apparently the window regulator was "pressing down" on the door harness, which in time, caused a kink and eventually wires to touch causing the fire. Which also indicates that someone before me was in there, since there is no way that harness would be leaving the factory touching the regulator.
I cut the damaged wires, the white and brown one FYI, and just attached them together to test the CL, and everything was working again. Driver's door and trunk was locking and unlock everything, finally.
Everything went back in and now enjoying a fresh cylinder lock and a working CLS, which i am NOT accustomed to lol. Inside of the door was rust free and no signs of repairs, maybe someone removed all the cables and items, then gave up? unsure how that would work.
Now i can move to testing components for the fresh air flap(s) which are not working, and replace the expansion valve seals (it is always leaking for some reason).
nice /\
well, that its working, not so much all the stuff you had to do
No e30s again.
We drove 240 miles to pick up a 5 speed, eat some BBQ, and then 240 home so my son can drive his car again.
It was a long day
No e30s again.
it was a long day on the highway. my son and his friend were asleep in the back seat of the truck, as was my wife in the front. my only problem with the drive is I wish my truck got better gas mileage. 17 when the wind was behind us and 14 when it was in front and I have a midsize crew cab Nissan frontier. oh well, its a good truck though
No e30s again.
No go on the five speed. The clutch kit came in so my son tried to bolt it up and the bell housing doesn't line up. We ran the part number and it's an m30 five speed for a 535, 635, 735 with m30.
So we have to make the 240ish mile trip again to take it back. The guy said he will swap is back cash for the trans
No e30s again.
Drove to Austin and back to return the transmission to the guy we got it from.
No e30s again.
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