go to any sign making shop there are three different standard thicknesses they use for signs. either the second or most thickest is the one you want. can't remember which. i'm getting a sign shop to make my oil pan baffle. was quoted $30 CDN which is a decent price for a make safe go fast part.
There ended up being a Metal Supermarket .4 miles from my house. $96 later, I have this weekend's project.
If your e30 runs bad, switch to Megasquirt first. Then try new spark plugs, cap and rotor, wires, oxygen sensor, crank shaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor, air flow meter, idle control valve, throttle position sensor, digital motor electronics unit, harmonic balancer, fuel injectors, engine harness...
Tested my fuel pressure today, only running on 25psi. Goes to 35 if I pull the vacuum line off the regulator. Goes way up over 95psi if I block off the return line from the regulator so according to the Bentley I need a new regulator. Looking forward to getting it and seeing if things improve after I put the new one on.
I installed LED lights in the side markers. Will get led lights for interior dome and trunk lights today, might put them in the stop/tail/turn today too if I can find them all. I'm curious to see if they trip the 'check' panel.
I bought my e30 with motor sports pinstripes, I love it. I need to get the car repainted after I fix some bad rust, but I'm definitely getting them again. Looks so cool on silver.
Regardless, the new thermostat and housing went in, tomorrow its new belts and coolant and she's back on the road
Last edited by Bairdogg; 05-02-2017 at 09:09 AM.
Just finished replacing the rear diff oil and much needed degreasing/cleaning under the engine. I'm pretty sure I need to replace the oil pan gasket. Anyone have any advice on doing the oil pan? I have the Bentley manual but it pretty much says drop steering rack and loosen all the 10mm bolt heads.
http://www.rtsauto.com/e30-bmw-oil-p...d-replacement/
Searching the internet for your question is the almost always the fastest and easiest way to get your answer. I searched "remove oil pan without removing steering rack e30"
If your e30 runs bad, switch to Megasquirt first. Then try new spark plugs, cap and rotor, wires, oxygen sensor, crank shaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor, air flow meter, idle control valve, throttle position sensor, digital motor electronics unit, harmonic balancer, fuel injectors, engine harness...
Thanks. I've only read the Bentley and the procedure notes on the pelican parts site.
I didn't drop the rack. I lifted the engine just like I did when I replaced motor mounts. Gave me just enough room.
1987 325is Zinneberot 5spd totally stock multiple show winner
1992 325iC M-Technic factory appearance package, Diamantschwarz metallic, black nappa leather, black top, Dinan chip, K&N CAI, Remus exhaust
1997 528i Schwartz II, 5spd stick daily driver
1999 M Roadster, Dakar Yellow II, Dinan Stage 3, Dinan CAI, Dinan throttle body, Redline driveline, LiquiMoly 5w40 engine, BC Racing BR coilovers, Motion Motorsport under panel, S54 radiator and fan delete, BavSound speakers, Kenwood CD/iPod/aux/Bluetooth
2001 Z3 3.0i coupe, Sapphire Black, auto (dang), suede headliner, LeatherZ sunroof screen
2016 228i, Sapphire Black, 6 speed, M Sport Package
1993 325iC, Schwarz II, custom leather, Bilstein HDs, Ansa sport, Royal Purple engine and driveline SOLD
1997 318ti Active, Bostongruen, daily driver SOLD
They're both helpful.
If your e30 runs bad, switch to Megasquirt first. Then try new spark plugs, cap and rotor, wires, oxygen sensor, crank shaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor, air flow meter, idle control valve, throttle position sensor, digital motor electronics unit, harmonic balancer, fuel injectors, engine harness...
I had trouble putting the pan back on without knocking the gasket off no matter whether I gooped it to the engine or to the pan so I stuck it to the engine then used thread to tie it in every second bolt hole, slid the pan in and put the bolts back really loosely on the non thread holes, pulled the threads out and put the rest of the bolts on and tightened it.
That's a great idea, but tying all those little knots would annoy me. Why not a thin smear of black rtv or dirko on the pan, press the gasket on it, let it tack up a bit, and then install it?
If your e30 runs bad, switch to Megasquirt first. Then try new spark plugs, cap and rotor, wires, oxygen sensor, crank shaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor, air flow meter, idle control valve, throttle position sensor, digital motor electronics unit, harmonic balancer, fuel injectors, engine harness...
I haven't done the gasket swap yet, but I've got black rtv at the ready to do as you suggest. It may be a few months before I do this because it will also be the opportunity to change out the ball joints and bushings and sway bar components. I'm considering getting a thicker sway bar and trying to decide on struts. I like the factory ride height but I also want it a bit stiffer. My son will eventually be driving this car and I don't think a rookie driver mixes well with a lowered car. All it takes is one speed bump and the car is dead....
Bilstein HDs and stock springs. Used frequently in the rallycross world for a stiffer ride but no loss of ground clearance. Front sway bar is a great upgrade.
One thing that is great for new drivers, in my opinion, is a louder than stock exhaust. Not obnoxious, mind you, but lout enough that they can instantly hear all RPM changes. They're concentrating on so many new things the subtle drone of a stock exhaust gets completed blurred out and then they forget to shift.
If your e30 runs bad, switch to Megasquirt first. Then try new spark plugs, cap and rotor, wires, oxygen sensor, crank shaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor, air flow meter, idle control valve, throttle position sensor, digital motor electronics unit, harmonic balancer, fuel injectors, engine harness...
Did my Oil change Yesterday,ordered some timing belt stuff,clips,rubber,coolant,all water hoses,sender here sender there,thermostat,water pump,detent cable bought just in case,and throttle cable,more clips,resister,and other stufffffff ..................Nice tomorrow should be a good day to do a timing belt cross my fingers....TDC right...
Still waiting on some plastic parts for timing belt cover...hopefully by Friday and it's been 2 weeks now..I'm getting the hebbie gebbies just thinking about this TB and can't wait for this to be done and feel at ease that i won't have to do it in 4 yrs
Hard to get half decent parts around here especially for a 30 year old car,with only 4 auto parts stores,so i buy all my stuff on line.
I want to make sure i have every thing i need
Engine Coolant Hose Stay
Rubber Seal - Timing Cover
Holding Cover - Front of Timing Belt Cover
Holding Clip - Front of Timing Belt Cover
Guide Pin - Timing Belt Tensioner
x2 Cable Guide Clip
Throttle Body Water Housing Gasket
Fuel Injection Throttle Body Coolant Heater Flange
So far i have this stuff....
20170419_173942.jpg
If you have a Carquest or Advance Auto, they should have access to World Pac. Give them a BMW part number and if World Pac has it, you can have it in a couple of hours. At least here we can. Great for when I need something fast. And usually very competitive with online pricing. Usually OEM stuff, too.
1987 325is Zinneberot 5spd totally stock multiple show winner
1992 325iC M-Technic factory appearance package, Diamantschwarz metallic, black nappa leather, black top, Dinan chip, K&N CAI, Remus exhaust
1997 528i Schwartz II, 5spd stick daily driver
1999 M Roadster, Dakar Yellow II, Dinan Stage 3, Dinan CAI, Dinan throttle body, Redline driveline, LiquiMoly 5w40 engine, BC Racing BR coilovers, Motion Motorsport under panel, S54 radiator and fan delete, BavSound speakers, Kenwood CD/iPod/aux/Bluetooth
2001 Z3 3.0i coupe, Sapphire Black, auto (dang), suede headliner, LeatherZ sunroof screen
2016 228i, Sapphire Black, 6 speed, M Sport Package
1993 325iC, Schwarz II, custom leather, Bilstein HDs, Ansa sport, Royal Purple engine and driveline SOLD
1997 318ti Active, Bostongruen, daily driver SOLD
Hi. I'm new here!
My E30 just restored but not fully assembled
BeiBfiZRJJc.jpg
Well this just came in the mail today now i have every thing i need.....plus the rubber seal is suppose to be GENUINE BMW but the logo looks blurry all bought from QE autoparts and claims GENUINE BMW....
OK last question when i change the Crankshaft oil seal and the big orange O-Ring the top one I'm referring too.Is that bolt a 7 mm Torx or 7mm hex looking at the Bentley looks like a Torx head......they say 7mm hex but just want to make sure it's not a typo error. Most of that stuff i might not need but since i'm doing the timing belt may as well change all the plastic parts that are 30 years old....
So they call for rain all week here that right rain till next Thursday but could change..Thank god for the garage and don't dare drive my car in the rain it would be a good time to start the timing belt....It gives me a week to Get-Ur Done....lol
20170526_200308.jpg20170526_200451.jpg20170526_200502.jpg
Last edited by rustneversleeps; 05-26-2017 at 07:53 PM. Reason: words
ok finally jumping in on this thread... so... long post
today - swapped in the Programa OBDC light bar. Piece of cake. Getting to it was like cutting a piece of cake with a socket wrench; some parts of that little dashboard fascia were cracked; other parts crumbled on disassembly. Glued the bits back together, letting it set up overnight.
Also reworked the glove box lock cylinder to work with the car's key. Turns out it's a non-BMW replacement lock assembly; just kind of filed down the tumblers to make it work. Should be easy to pick, but those glove box locks are easier to "pick" with a heavy screwdriver, so, not gonna worry about it.
yesterday - put in CD43 to E30 antenna adapter. Radio works great, stations' content still an issue
last weekend - put up a retractable awning to park under
this spring -
discovered the joy of driving around with the top down, the stereo on, and my sweetie riding shotgun
re-assembled interior
replaced steering wheel (ripped leather) with used E30 wheel (worn but non-ripped)
got shop to find & fix a grounding issue; in the process, they lined up & re-seated dash & cluster better than it was
replaced original tape deck, removed outboard amp, added 3 ohm JBL speakers and all new speaker wire, added a couple Kenwood mini bass boxes to offload low-end work from the CD43's "high power" amp
deep clean & detail all leather, vinyl, carpet, plastic inside with chemical guys stuff
had top replaced by local Convertibles Only shop - they also cleared vents & drains I hadn't found yet
fell out of love with old leaky convertibles
chased down leaks
cleaned out front drain in engine compartment
replaced tail light gaskets
this winter -
replaced driveway & patios, adding a parking pad next to bonus room (fka "garage")(lost the bid to re-convert garage from bonus room to car parking)
chased down leaks
dehumidified & dried out car - repeatedly - a near-daily chore for 2 months
chased down leaks
stripped interior down to metal & wiring harnesses
chased down leaks
temp repairs to tail light gaskets (including 3rd tail light)
chased down leaks
discovered the joy of driving a bimmer with all 4 wheels pointing the same direction
had springs, shocks, bushings, control arms etc replaced with all new BMW-stock parts
chased down leaks
replaced mats, bulbs, lenses etc as needed
chased down leaks
had timing belt, water pump, oil pan gasket, gearbox seal, tires replaced
bought car
discovered how much fun driving an old bimmer is
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