What did you do to your E30 today?

[H.J. 1981]

i guess you might have removed the cover before the engine cooled off and it got heat wrapped

I do believe that the car has been sitting overnight before i touched the valve cover anytime i went to work on it. I do believe it is dry now, it has just been raining a bit and i could not really take a look.

Maybe i used a different torque pattern earlier several times and now that i followed the manual it is slightly warped, but so far as i checked last time it is dry.

[toddlemmon]

Good morning. What I did today was jump start my daughter's project 1992 325ic and get it into the garage to begin replacing the tie rods, control arm bushings and a few other bits. I'm new to this forum (and might be in the wrong section) but am frequently on E46 Fanatics because we also have two 2002 325i's we work on. This is our first E30 job. I was hoping to ask a few questions and get some advice. My first question is, why is the '92 E30 such an odd duck? Almost everything you read seems to indicate that the E30's stopped in 1991. I'm fairly certain ours is an E30 because RealOEM indicates so when I run the VIN. It shows a 10/91 build. I have the Bentley E30 service manual for the 3 Series 1984-1990. I'm wondering if I have the right book. I've watched the excellent videos from Bavarian Autosport with Otto and have bought all the specialty tools. Any other advice on this job? Thanks very much. Todd

[shogun]

depending on model/country version E30 were built 1982 - 1994 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_3_Series_(E30)

[e30topdown]

I’ve owned both a 1993 and 1992 e30 325iC. The sedans and coupes ran through the 1991 model year. The cabrios ran two more model years longer. The last US1993s were made in January or February of 93. The e36 sedans and coupes were being built at the same time as the e30 cabrios for a bit. This can cause problems when shopping for parts for 92 and 93 cabrios at some vendors. I look for either the e30 designation or SOHC/M20 (not DOHC/M5x) on engine designation. Or by using part numbers from realOEM.com. The cabrios are great fun. Just keep the timing belt refreshed every 5 years/60,000 mi. and it’ll run forever. Good luck.

[H.J. 1981]

Good morning. What I did today was jump start my daughter's project 1992 325ic and get it into the garage to begin replacing the tie rods, control arm bushings and a few other bits. I'm new to this forum (and might be in the wrong section) but am frequently on E46 Fanatics because we also have two 2002 325i's we work on. This is our first E30 job. I was hoping to ask a few questions and get some advice. My first question is, why is the '92 E30 such an odd duck? Almost everything you read seems to indicate that the E30's stopped in 1991. I'm fairly certain ours is an E30 because RealOEM indicates so when I run the VIN. It shows a 10/91 build. I have the Bentley E30 service manual for the 3 Series 1984-1990. I'm wondering if I have the right book. I've watched the excellent videos from Bavarian Autosport with Otto and have bought all the specialty tools. Any other advice on this job? Thanks very much. Todd

As Shogun stated it depends on the model. I believe the 4 door stopped at 1990 (some late model 1990 models did continue to be sold as 1991), while the touring (which was never available directly from BMW in the USA to my knowledge) continued in Europe and ROW till late 1993 (some sold under 1994 models) which means the E30 touring was in production as well as the E36.

Regardless, there are no real differences between the late models, you have the correct book.

[toddlemmon]

Thanks everyone. made some progress and got the old PS reservoir and lines out. Have ordered all new parts including new crush washers. I have another noob question. I cannot figure out what this is beneath the PS reservoir. Part of the oil system? When I was underneath the car removing the PS banjos I saw this and it didn't look right at all. What is this? I can't figure it out. Thanks again. Todd

[toddlemmon]

OK. Charcoal canister. Finally found it in Bentleys

[superj]

yup, charcoal cannister

[toddlemmon]

It's amazing how much an engine bay can make you feel like an idiot. Still learning the E46 engine and now I have ti get smart on the E30 M20...

[H.J. 1981]

Struggled to get the throttle plate properly adjusted the last few days, can ran great but the DME would never save the idle settings.

Turned out i was using the feeler gauge and measuring the gap incorrectly and caused the plate to be way too open. So i just drove the stop screw out, placed the feeler gauge inside the TB and adjust the screw till the feeler gauge was able to be pulled out with some drag (it is basically around 1/2 a turn after the stop screw touches the arm).

Also removed the TPS, it is 30 years old. Opened it and cleaned the inside with contact cleaner. Very little oil/dirt came out and everything moves correctly. Installed it, made sure it was set up correctly. Did not start the car, will do later this evening and DME is reset. I was shocked to see an OE Bosch TPS for the 325i costing an insane €130 + shipping, seriously WTF? those things were €80 tops two years ago, almost €60 three years ago.

Also noticed some huge resistance drops in the AFM as i pushed the flap door, pretty much from fully closed (idle) till it reaches the end (fully open/WOT), the resistance keeps dropping and rising. So the track would need to be cleaned and the arm slightly adjusted. Also there is some very minor sticking from the flap, right from the stop/start as on e applies pressure. So that would need to be cleaned and slightly lubricated (surprisingly i have no weird idle/power issues, but there is a very annoying lump during idle from time to time, but i have experienced some rpm surges under very light throttle, which could be related to that flap door slightly binding as the throttle is barely open/flap barely open).

I should replace the oil pan gasket end of this week or early next week, along with new engine and transmission mounts. Those are misaligned and my fault, i kind of forced them in place instead of clocking them correctly according to older threads.

AFM will be cleaned tomorrow, interested to see how the results would be like, it is the original 30 year old unit and never opened before.

[H.J. 1981]

Old TPS just failed, as i removed it it rattled so that is shot. Placed an aftermarket TPS instead, till i find a good deal on a new Bosch one.

Cleaned the AFM, bent the wiper arm a bit to make contact on fresh track and lubricated the flap door a bit. She runs more crisp, but no real night and day difference, engine feels like it is "breathing" better if that makes sense.

I have a feeling that those Meyle brand wheel bearings/hubs in the front are shot, getting inconsistent vibrations at highway speeds. Wheels balanced, tie rods, LCAs etc all checked and no play, top strut mounts are new and no noises either. Only way to be sure is to replace them i guess, since testing revealed nothing.

[superj]

dang, that sucks

[H.J. 1981]

It is the original 30 year old switch, it was supposed to fail soon ^^

I replaced both front wheel bearings/hubs with an alternative brand for testing those Meyle ones. Drivers side spindle had a light caked on black film, not from overheating but looked rather that some grease got cooked. Passenger side was the interesting one, removing the grease cap showed the outer bearing to be coated with a white creamy grease, instead of the typical black one from factory. The inner bearing was still with black grease, i suspected water got inside, but upon removing the hub, there are no signs of water, rust (not even surface rust) on the rear seal, cap or anything. It appears that, something was not correct with manufacturing that bearing/hub.

Went for a quick test drive at 120kph-130kph and i noticed no vibrations, however it was brief. I am travelling to Munich today and that would be the rear test, but i believe the problem is solved, since the front end feels a lot tighter and more controlled.

[H.J. 1981]

Looks like it was either the passenger side or driver side hub/bearing, those crazy front end vibrations are gone.

Now it seems that the LCAB are failing XD lol i can not win with this machine ^^

[superj]

ha ha ha, I understand. there are still two in my driveway

[EastCoastErik]

IMG_4848.jpgIMG_4819 1.jpgIMG_4828.jpg


I don't know why my photos rotated & I can't figure out how to correct them

[superj]

dang, its really scenic there. very pretty

[H.J. 1981]

Indeed nice pictures!

Replaced those Whiteline brand offset lower control arm bushings with BMW M3 offset ones, it made a huge difference. Instead of crashing over road imperfections, it rides over them very nicely. I do have those stiff Bilstein HD shortened shocks, still a bit rough ride but so much better.

Blasted on the A92 autobahn at 200kph (120mph?), what i felt is there are some minor vibrations at around 130kph (around 80mph) and again at 160-ish (100mph). It is definitely from the front axle, and it feels like a rubber component is not doing its job. As of now, despite 2 year old new parts, i can say it would either be the engine mounts (febi brand), sway bar end links (Meyle HD) or the tires. Hopefully fresh oil, filter and a new pan gasket will go in next week, as well as new engine and transmission mounts. I shall try to get standard Lemförder sway bar end links in and test again, winter tires are going on soon, so that would also be eliminated.

It is funny, how new parts did not last 2 years, yet the original 30 year old parts did, i replaced them for the sake of having "everything new" under the car. Quality of parts today are just rubbish.

[superj]

yup.

its cool you guys have a place to go that fast and not go to jail. at 120, you were just under the fuel cut

[H.J. 1981]

Looks like i know what is the front end vibrations, those darn Sachs upper strut mounts are wobbling.....Will replace all four shock mounts with Lemförder this time around when replacing the oil pan gasket.

[323i E30]

Brought the E30 to the garage for the bi-yearly inspection / MOT and got it back the same day, approved for the next two years without a single remark.
Same story as last time. Awesome.

[H.J. 1981]

Ordered Lemförder upper strut mounts and rear top mounts.

One front upper mount is nice and tight, the other has minor play. Just great, i booked a lift at the DIY for Monday, guess i shall replace the oil pan only and send back the upper mounts.

Thing is, the Sachs one had play, Meyle had play and now Lemförder. Ironically all are "made in China", i guess they are coming off the same production line and just packaged in whatever brand box.

If anyone has a reliable brand of upper strut mounts, let me know. OE and "Premium" brands have failed me too many times.

[micromac]

1986 325 ic eurospec: jumped the car (leaks electricity) and fixed the dash button that deactivates the power windows (none would work). Bought a repair manual online to reset check light (too old for stomp test and different OBD hub than US models so am afraid to do jumper wire reset).

[H.J. 1981]

Febi upper mounts arrived, thankfully they are both nice and tight. Will be replacing the oil pan gasket, oil change w/filter and upper strut mounts on Friday.

[H.J. 1981]

Spent 7 hours and 40 minutes under the car on Friday, i really took my time with the oil pan to be certain that everything was indeed clean and dry.

Applied a generous amount of high temp RTV from Elring, both on the pan and the block. The gasket is by AJUSA brand and it is made from hard paper, it was a fluke since i assumed it was cork. Regardless i waited 5-8 minutes for the RTV to turn tacky and slowly bolted the pan in place. It seems to be holding, no leaks as of yet but i shall check next week.

Also replaced the mounts with new ones, visually nothing indicated that the Febi mounts installed needed to be replaced, but when i took one out, compared it to Corteo brand the Febis were 3mm shorter for some reason, so i replaced both.

Double checked all the torque for the subframe, steering shaft, rack, pan etc and she is idling super smooth now. It is amazing how an oil pan leak, introduces a vacuum leak, and how much of a difference it makes to engine idle, noise and response.

I got a squeaky belt, will adjust all 3 aux belts next week when i replace the strut mounts and rear shock mounts.