Anybody else running this combo?
I'm curious to know your comments or speculations. I'm not about to give up either mod if I have heat issues, I'll just go with an electric fan.
Thanks,
Ron
Last edited by themadhatter; 06-03-2003 at 05:43 PM.
Hey man, I'm a professional!
I have an ert pulley with the fan delete, and if I have heat problems this summer (I didn't last summer, though) I would just put the fan back on, I really didn't notice much gain after taking it off.
Flipmode, you're in Jersey???
ever get stuck on the parkway with this combo in the summer? I think that would be the true test of the system.
The ERT pulley you have is a single or multi-piece kit?
Hey man, I'm a professional!
Yeah I'm in Jersey. I've been in traffic with the fan off for the past year, the needle doesn't even budge. I checked my sparkplugs recently, and they are not white or showing signs of engine being too hot (I don't have good water or oil temp gauges yet). As for the pulley, it's a single piece crank pulley.
Ron,
I have the RE pullies and did the fan delete as well. I did the 80c thermostat and 80/88c switch but didn't add any Water Wetter.
At install time I also added a Spal aux fan so when it's gets hot outside I needn't worry about it running hotter than desired.
Temp runs rock solid in the middle of the guage with the air on in traffic so far. It's going to get hotter but I think it will work great with the extra fan.
All told it seems to be a nice setup and added some HP on the butt-dyno.
Hope this helps,
Evosport pulleys, fan delete, water wetter, 80/88 fan, stock thermostat (haven't gotten around to changing it yet, 80c sitting on the shelf).
No heat issues in 70-75 degree weather and lots of traffic. Butt dyno liked it.
93 325is - total M3 conversion and more - Dinan SC kit - RMS aftercooler and tuning - 395rwhp on 91 octane.
"....She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid. I've made a lot of special modifications myself." -Han Solo
CarDomain page
UUC pulleys, fan delete, no water wetter, 80/88 fan switch, 80c thermostat.
No problems
Mark, can you tell me which model/size Spal fan you're using?Originally posted by U1arunit
At install time I also added a Spal aux fan so when it's gets hot outside I needn't worry about it running hotter than desired.
thanks for everyone's replies.
Hey man, I'm a professional!
Ron,
I will check the part # and re-post tonight after work.
great, thanks buddy.
Hey man, I'm a professional!
uuc pulleys and fan delete *kit* in high 90 to 100 degree weather with no problems. i only threw the engine fan back on last week until i can find out why my ac doesn't blow cold enough, but the temp gauge stayed in the same spot.
M3 cams *UUC stage II lwfw w////M5 clutch *JC cam & lwfw chip *ECIS intake *Bosal cat back *UUC udp's *M3 3.15lsd *M3 shifter *H&R & Bilstein sport *E46 M3 rsm *Z3 rein4c plates *Depo DDE's *Zender lp *M3 spoiler *M3 moldings * M3 mirrors *billetwerks *jbl/mtx sub system
'04 G35 sedan 5AT all stock
Ron,
I used part# 30100385. It's a 14" thin Spal fan with the straight blades. I originally ordered the 30100825 16" HD curved blade model that I have read about others installing but the damn thing was soo thick that it would barely fit and I didn't like the idea of needing to make custom brackets to hold it since it was too heavy to mount using those little nylon zip strips that are normally used to secure it to the rad.
The 14" fan is very light, moves enough air, and suits the need fine. I was worried that it might be a little loud being straight blade type but you need to really listen with the hood closed(outside the car) to hear it running.
I used http://www.jaycorptech.com/ They are quick and have good prices.
Hope this helps,
Where can I buy this 80/88 fan switch cheap?
Contact Chris (Bimmer95) from www.understeer.com
The parts thru him are priced right.
Thanks for the link. You figure the 14" unit is adequate enough to move air? I'm thinking of the 16" slim setup, it'll move more air. I figure that with my C/F hood, I'm not going to have a chance at noise control so there isn't much I can do. I just get a straight bladed fan and let it compete with the engine and the intake.Originally posted by U1arunit
Ron,
I used part# 30100385. It's a 14" thin Spal fan with the straight blades. I originally ordered the 30100825 16" HD curved blade model that I have read about others installing but the damn thing was soo thick that it would barely fit and I didn't like the idea of needing to make custom brackets to hold it since it was too heavy to mount using those little nylon zip strips that are normally used to secure it to the rad.
The 14" fan is very light, moves enough air, and suits the need fine. I was worried that it might be a little loud being straight blade type but you need to really listen with the hood closed(outside the car) to hear it running.
I used http://www.jaycorptech.com/ They are quick and have good prices.
Hope this helps,
These guys are very cheap too, I'm impressed. Maybe I'll buy one for my tahoe too.
-Ron
Hey man, I'm a professional!
I second jaycorptech. They were actually out of the 16" slim curved blade I ordered and sent me one model up (with waterproofed wiring). Shipping was quick.
Hey guys,
I too am interested in this mod with pullies and adding the electric fan. How hard is it to wire the electric fan up? Can any of you who did this provide details. The jaycorptech website doesn't mention that the fans come with the wiring harness. Can anyone shed any light on this.
Thanks,
Pete
uuhh, guys.
Do you know that the BMW temp guage is damped? That means it stays in the center over a wide range of actual temperatures. Just having the needle in the middle doesn't mean you engine is getting vary hot. It just isn';t quite hot enough to move the needle over the dampening.
A good idea with this setup is a real temp guage.
Terry Carraway
'95 Alpine M3 LTW
'00 Dakar M Roadster
'02 Topaz M3 SMG
Ron..
I think you are correct in that the 16" fan would flow more air, most likely more than would ever be needed unless maybe you have a turbo setup or the like. I just didn't want the hassle of the tight fit. It is so tight that even the plastic nut that covers the threads on the WP wouldn't clear. It was just too close on my car for my tastes.
I plan on adding a temp guage to the oem setup soon so I can check this, even if for only testing purposes. Actually I can probably just get my buddies scan tool to see what temp it's actually running as the engine control module must have a sensor to read from. Does anyone know for sure..?
Given the lower temp fan switch and thermo being added, I just feel that they are enough to compensate for the lack of mechanical fan. The aux fan that I added is just for insurance.
If the car is running hot the factory gauge will show it. It's dampened, but not to the point of being numb to significant rises in temp.
I think I would be more concerned if I lived where it got really HOT and I didn't have the aux fan. Does anyone with a REAL guage know what temps their car is actually running in this type of condition?
Regarding the fan connector:
The Spal fans just come with a connector. It's wise to buy the relay and harness setup and install it per the instructions provided. If they are not clear enough for you I can tell you which wires go where if you PM me.
I tapped into the connector for the low side fan speed directly at the front OE aux fan. I merely soldered into the connector there to use that positive output as a relay trigger point.
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