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Thread: Rear shock replacement

  1. #1
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    Rear shock replacement

    I had an indy replace my fronts but could not get the rears out.

    What's the secret?

  2. #2
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    new suspension half installed huh? You should be ok but that's just a guess- be careful on wet roads until you get it all right.

  3. #3
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    What he said...... May we ask why this setup?
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  4. #4
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    i would think you would have a serious rake look .. when are you installing the rear? probable wouldn't drive with the set up for a long time


    1998 540IA Arctic Silver, OEM M-Tech Bumpers, Koni FSD/Eibach Pro Kit, MKII Motorsport 18x8.5 and 18x10, M5 Style Mirrors, ACS Style Trunk and Roof Spoiler, OEM Hella Xenon Headlights 4300k blubs, Slim HID 3K Projector Fogs, Euro Hella Celis Taillights, OEM M5 Kidney Grill, 35% tint, magnaflow 18415

  5. #5
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    Looks like someone doesn't have the right tools or ran out of daylight.

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jLace View Post
    I had an indy replace my fronts but could not get the rears out.

    What's the secret?

    No secret. Your indy sucks moose balls. You have to take out the rear deck and unscrew them. Unscrew the bottom mounts and they should fall right out.

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jLace View Post
    We have a shortage of Moose in Dallas, so I doubt he was doing that instead of doing my rears. He said he looked up the labor in the book and it was 10 hours for rears only. 6 hrs. for the front. He said he did the fronts in 4 and they are fine.

    The car is on it's way to my house now so I'll know more in an hour.

    Good god. We did my whole car in about 3 hours tops!

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  8. #8
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    Thanks Ken, then maybe there's hope. The way it sounded it would have been a 600.00 rear shock install and I'm not prepared for that right now. I can't afford to tear up my car either.

  9. #9
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    no shame in admitting you've been beaten by the e39 rear suspension- it is a bitch if you don't know what you are doing. I can do the rears now after I used the 540i parts car to experiment on. As gumbi said, some interior bits get pulled and other than that it really is pretty simple.

  10. #10
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    Inside:
    Remove rear seat lower and upper
    Remove rear deck
    Remove speakers
    Remove the three shock mount nuts (either 10 or 13mm I forget).

    Outside:
    Disconnect sway bar link
    Loosen lower shock bolt (16 or 18mm I forget)

    Then have someone stand on the hub of the rotor forcing it downwards while another person easily guides the entire shock/spring assembly down and out.

    Repeat on other side.
    "I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
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  11. #11
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    Start looking for a new indy.

  12. #12
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    I got mine replaced front/rear for $300

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimmertam911 View Post
    I got mine replaced front/rear for $300
    +1 but I tipped a bit. Your indy sounds a little suspect.

  14. #14
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    It's not a shock 'bearing' per se. It's an upper strut mount and yes, you probably should replace them. Might I ask what Indy you are using?

  15. #15
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    You should have a BMW specialist/ tech do the work.

    Plus, you should replace all the shock mounts, spring pads, and rubber bump stops.

    Reference BeisanSystems.com/procedures

    Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by jLace View Post
    He said something about a shock bearing. It's something that is only on the front. I don't have a clue what those are but my car "clinks" now and he said that is why.
    probably meant strut mount bearing. about $30 each for the entire mount with new bearings.

    as for the rear struts, i just did that this past weekend. taking apart the interior isn't really a big deal in my opinion, just takes time. the hardest part was trying to get the strut out because the suspension arms are under tension and push up. you HAVE to remove the wheel liner, and you HAVE to loosen the fuel filler and carbon canister in order to make enough clearance. Even then, it's going to be tight and you want to be careful not to hit anything with the studs on the strut mounts. when i did this, we did it the hard way, with me stepping on the suspension and my buddy trying to find a way to pull the strut out. a tip i got later was to use a block of wood wedged between the suspension arms to hold it open; that is probably very good advice. i'm just a DIYer, and rather inexperienced at that... so if I could figure it out, I would question the competency of your professional indy mechanic too.

  17. #17
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    ohhhh !!!!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by bimmerfiver View Post
    Inside:
    Remove rear seat lower and upper
    Remove rear deck
    Remove speakers
    Remove the three shock mount nuts (either 10 or 13mm I forget).

    Outside:
    Disconnect sway bar link
    Loosen lower shock bolt (16 or 18mm I forget)

    Then have someone stand on the hub of the rotor forcing it downwards while another person easily guides the entire shock/spring assembly down and out.

    Repeat on other side.
    got damn thats why i love this forum they get right down to the point !

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by jLace View Post
    It's here. Shock bearings are out, couldn't tell that he said on normal suspension but they will have to be replaced now with the sports. So, in other words, everything that was done today was for nothing and the fronts have to come back out. The car doesn't feel safe or solid or tight. I went backwards.
    Fail. Dude, your life is on the line. Get a good mechanic or do it yourself. I don't know what's going on here, but it's all bad.
    "I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
    ~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread

  19. #19
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    I would say find a new indy. Changing struts on any car is a relatively simple task for a mechanic. If they can't do it on yours, what does that say about them?

    My guy spent an hour and a half on the fronts, and had real trouble with the rears, so they took him 3 hours. He normally takes an hour for that job.
    "All my life, I have searched for a car that feels a certain way....Powerful like a gorilla, yet soft and yielding like a Nerf ball. Now, at last, I have found it." -- Homer Simpson

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  20. #20
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    If you want the depressingly long list of things to do to get shocks on the rear of an E39... go to my previous thread and go down to post #13: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...light=bilstein

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by capn shawn View Post
    If you want the depressingly long list of things to do to get shocks on the rear of an E39... go to my previous thread and go down to post #13: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...light=bilstein
    no specialty tools needed?
    Quote Originally Posted by volodka1985 View Post
    I have a manual I6 e39 and it's a great car but sometimes when i need to accelerate fast and it doesn't( cause it can't) i just wanna slow down, pull over, open the hood and shoot the poor bastard in it's inline 6 heart....

  22. #22
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    Here's the wheel gap on the front with the OE sports on it. Not exactly, tucked and slammed.


  23. #23
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    I just called another indy. $760.00, he said almost 8 hours.

  24. #24
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    that is a bs price. not to mention any good shop can do a bmw suspension change.
    Quote Originally Posted by volodka1985 View Post
    I have a manual I6 e39 and it's a great car but sometimes when i need to accelerate fast and it doesn't( cause it can't) i just wanna slow down, pull over, open the hood and shoot the poor bastard in it's inline 6 heart....

  25. #25
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    Looks right .. do you have the searious rake look with the non sport rears ? when are you doing the rears .. wheels looks great!


    1998 540IA Arctic Silver, OEM M-Tech Bumpers, Koni FSD/Eibach Pro Kit, MKII Motorsport 18x8.5 and 18x10, M5 Style Mirrors, ACS Style Trunk and Roof Spoiler, OEM Hella Xenon Headlights 4300k blubs, Slim HID 3K Projector Fogs, Euro Hella Celis Taillights, OEM M5 Kidney Grill, 35% tint, magnaflow 18415

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