What he said...... May we ask why this setup?
The Harder I work, the better I live!
i would think you would have a serious rake look .. when are you installing the rear? probable wouldn't drive with the set up for a long time
1998 540IA Arctic Silver, OEM M-Tech Bumpers, Koni FSD/Eibach Pro Kit, MKII Motorsport 18x8.5 and 18x10, M5 Style Mirrors, ACS Style Trunk and Roof Spoiler, OEM Hella Xenon Headlights 4300k blubs, Slim HID 3K Projector Fogs, Euro Hella Celis Taillights, OEM M5 Kidney Grill, 35% tint, magnaflow 18415
Looks like someone doesn't have the right tools or ran out of daylight.
Another FP5241 Creation
Parting out M54 Engine. Intake and all. Cats avail as well. PM ME!
Inside:
Remove rear seat lower and upper
Remove rear deck
Remove speakers
Remove the three shock mount nuts (either 10 or 13mm I forget).
Outside:
Disconnect sway bar link
Loosen lower shock bolt (16 or 18mm I forget)
Then have someone stand on the hub of the rotor forcing it downwards while another person easily guides the entire shock/spring assembly down and out.
Repeat on other side.
"I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread
Start looking for a new indy.
I got mine replaced front/rear for $300
03 Titanium Grey SportKoni FSD
You should have a BMW specialist/ tech do the work.
Plus, you should replace all the shock mounts, spring pads, and rubber bump stops.
Reference BeisanSystems.com/procedures
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
probably meant strut mount bearing. about $30 each for the entire mount with new bearings.
as for the rear struts, i just did that this past weekend. taking apart the interior isn't really a big deal in my opinion, just takes time. the hardest part was trying to get the strut out because the suspension arms are under tension and push up. you HAVE to remove the wheel liner, and you HAVE to loosen the fuel filler and carbon canister in order to make enough clearance. Even then, it's going to be tight and you want to be careful not to hit anything with the studs on the strut mounts. when i did this, we did it the hard way, with me stepping on the suspension and my buddy trying to find a way to pull the strut out. a tip i got later was to use a block of wood wedged between the suspension arms to hold it open; that is probably very good advice. i'm just a DIYer, and rather inexperienced at that... so if I could figure it out, I would question the competency of your professional indy mechanic too.
I would say find a new indy. Changing struts on any car is a relatively simple task for a mechanic. If they can't do it on yours, what does that say about them?
My guy spent an hour and a half on the fronts, and had real trouble with the rears, so they took him 3 hours. He normally takes an hour for that job.
"All my life, I have searched for a car that feels a certain way....Powerful like a gorilla, yet soft and yielding like a Nerf ball. Now, at last, I have found it." -- Homer Simpson
"Gulp! How much is this monstrosity? Eighty thousand dollars?!? I'm ruined!" -- Herb Powell, former President and CEO, Powell Motors Corp.
If you want the depressingly long list of things to do to get shocks on the rear of an E39... go to my previous thread and go down to post #13: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...light=bilstein
Looks right .. do you have the searious rake look with the non sport rears ? when are you doing the rears .. wheels looks great!
1998 540IA Arctic Silver, OEM M-Tech Bumpers, Koni FSD/Eibach Pro Kit, MKII Motorsport 18x8.5 and 18x10, M5 Style Mirrors, ACS Style Trunk and Roof Spoiler, OEM Hella Xenon Headlights 4300k blubs, Slim HID 3K Projector Fogs, Euro Hella Celis Taillights, OEM M5 Kidney Grill, 35% tint, magnaflow 18415
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