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Thread: Not your usual windshield seal question (with pictures!)

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Thumbs up Not your usual windshield seal question (with pictures!)

    I installed my new front and rear window seals today (with the help of my lovely wife) and everything seemed to go well.

    However, the front bottom corners have a weird TWIST or gap. It looks like a small mouth bass.

    The Upper corners of the front came out nice and the Back is perfect with its square lower corners.

    I did use 3M weatherstripping epoxy all the way around to ensure no leaks- but it also means it will destroy my new headliner if I try to remove. (BTW, putting in a new headliner sucks as well as making all those extra leather pieces for the A and B-pillars....)

    Did everyone else have this or did I do something wrong? Will it straighten out once the windshield is put in?










  2. #2
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    With the glass and trim lock in place this ought to disappear.

  3. #3
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    Also worth mentioning is that sometimes it's easiest to install the seal on the glass and do the rope trick to get the seal to go into place. This is usually how the glass guys do it.

    I did a quick google for a windshield replacement tutorial but couldn't find it quickly. I know one is out there since I followed it to do mine. I'm sure if you spend a few minutes looking one will turn up.

  4. #4
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    Thumbs up

    I read about putting the seal on the glass first but this doesn't seem possible in an E21. Not only does the seal hold the edge of the headliner in (which is why I had to take the glass out) but I had to use a mallet to get the seal between the dash and the front lip.

    I think I can use the "rope trick" easier to get the glass into the seal. Find out next week.

  5. #5
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    I did the rope thing on both my e21 and e28 with success. It doesn't seem like it will work but it did the trick.

  6. #6
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    The windshield was easier than the lock strip. New seals make it hard. Well I broke my windshield trying to put in the lock strip. Stupid special tool.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    I installed front & rear glass w/seals mounted. If you do a search you'll find a couple of post w/detailed info on doing it this way. Same w/locking strip.
    Use plenty of lubricant, take your time, you can do it by yourself.
    Good luck.

  8. #8
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    almost looks like you installed the moulding upsided down? im gonna install my rear glass on monday, what's this rope trick???

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    I did both front and rear with new seals and the
    "rope trick". An "old timer" glass man showed me how. The seal is always on the glass and the seal is rolled over the body edge with the rope/string. I glued the headliner to the body edge clamping it tight with paper binder clips. I had to make a "glass hook" tool which is needed in tough spots. Two people really helps to do the job and sometimes is essential. Ask for help if you need it, before you break the glass. Patience, patience and more patience. Dish soap or Armor-all for lube; I prefer Armor-all because it's kind to seals. And yes. it took me twice as long to get the new lock strip in vs. the glass. About 1 hr for the glass and 2 hr for the strip. Then there's also handing it off to the glass shop???
    ...the difference between ordeal and adventure, is attitude.

  10. #10
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    A local shop told me $300 installed for a new windshield. (I haven't bothered to get one yet) If they break it, they have to put in another one. Sounds like a bargain to me.

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    According to the factory repair manual, seal on glass, then the rope trick to install. I recently had to replace my back glass, I tried it this way and it was fairly easy, I needed more stout cord, however. I also happen to have the whipass factory lock strip tool. 20 minutes to get the strips in. Thats front AND rear.
    --dennis

    My Last e21_____________My e21 Before That
    1995 Land Rover Disco 5 spd, 2002 Disco Kalahari, 2011 Lexus CT200h

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Layne View Post
    A local shop told me $300 installed for a new windshield. (I haven't bothered to get one yet) If they break it, they have to put in another one. Sounds like a bargain to me.
    x10 - I had my windshield replaced with a PPG piece a few years ago and the lockstrip at the same time for under 300. After watching the "pro" sweat and curse I am convinced it was money well spent.

    YMMV

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by myersport View Post
    I also happen to have the whipass factory lock strip tool. 20 minutes to get the strips in.
    --dennis
    Is that the one shown in the Hayne's manual? It should be sort of generic, alot of cars had a similar strip, are they available today?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Layne View Post
    Is that the one shown in the Hayne's manual? It should be sort of generic, alot of cars had a similar strip, are they available today?
    Yep, that's the one. I don't know if it's still available or not, but probably not cheap if it is (from BMW). Mine followed me home from the dealership when I left 8 years go.
    --dennis

    My Last e21_____________My e21 Before That
    1995 Land Rover Disco 5 spd, 2002 Disco Kalahari, 2011 Lexus CT200h

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by myersport View Post
    According to the factory repair manual, seal on glass, then the rope trick to install. I recently had to replace my back glass, I tried it this way and it was fairly easy, I needed more stout cord, however. I also happen to have the whipass factory lock strip tool. 20 minutes to get the strips in. Thats front AND rear.
    --dennis
    In old seals...of course it took you 20 minutes.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by nowloadingrage View Post
    In old seals...of course it took you 20 minutes.
    25 year old sun hardened seals. Not nice, new, soft pliant seals.
    It's all about the right tool for the job.

    --dennis

    My Last e21_____________My e21 Before That
    1995 Land Rover Disco 5 spd, 2002 Disco Kalahari, 2011 Lexus CT200h

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by myersport View Post
    25 year old sun hardened seals. Not nice, new, soft pliant seals.
    It's all about the right tool for the job.

    --dennis
    "sun hardened" don't you mean light bulb since your car has lived in a garage its whole life. "pliant" ahhh I did not see that quality in my new seal.
    Hal ah lu ya to the right tool for the job. I am totally jealous of your tool box. I have dreams about smooth sliding drawers in tool boxes taller than me with lots of shinny tools.

  18. #18
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    UPSIDE DOWN!!!!?????

    I couldn't see a difference. The joint where the seal is joined is to the bottom.

    HAHAHAHAHA

    I measured and the top of the windshield is significantly smaller then the bottom.

  19. #19
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    i just had a newer used front window put in. it was removed from parts car and he threw bad one away. he had a bit of effort to get it done. it only cost me $100 for the job and from the looks of it well worth it. it came with three year guarantee not to leak, and they came to my house.

  20. #20
    Join Date
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    my lock stripes took about 20 mins to put in.. and that was on factory "sun hardened" seals i dunno whats so hard, use lots a lube and a screwdriver, just be careful.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
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    Brisbane Australia
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    e21 323
    Hey guys,

    Does anyone have any preferred suppliers for screen seal in Australia, or is direct through BMW the best option

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