just when you though it's over. another fan delete question

[fast4d]

I removed the fan and replaced the fan swith with an 80/88c.

do I need to replace the oem 88c thermostat with an 80c?

the factory dummy gauge seems to stay put in the middle.

I'm waiting for an aluminum housing so I can install a real gauge.

[BSH]

You should replace the existing thermostat with a 80c.

[badmonkey]

Coolant sensor?

[fast4d]

Originally posted by badmonkey
Coolant sensor?

nice!

what size/pitch tap?

[badmonkey]

1/8 NPT. The top of the t-stat housing is quite thick, maybe 3/16? Engaged all but the last couple of threads.

Pic is of the threaded hole, flash washed out the threads...

[M3Jokster]

I recommend adding a SPAL fan. to this mod.

here u can see more detail here.

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...threadid=71676

[EW///]

Hey M3Jokster, great fan setup. Did you just wire it in parallel with the stock electric fan?

[M3Jokster]

yea....when ever the electric fan kicks in...the spal fan turns on....it runs on it's own relay and fuse.

[EW///]

cool. I just did the FDK too, as well as UUC pullies. that seems like good insurance to keep temps down.

[Erik@EDGE]

M#Jokster..I don't want to rag on your setup, but you have blocked a TON of airflow through that radiator with that bracketry. What are your actual temps that you see?
Also, why not use the electric fan straps that go through the radiator fins. Just curious, let me know!

[M3Jokster]

Actually this is not finished yet...it's the prototype...i will be removing the edges out...when i have time...i just wanted to place it in my car...since it was almost 4 months since i have drove my car.

the reason why i did not want to do the fan strip was bc the spal fan will actually sit on the radiator...and with that, it will only draw air through that one area in the radiator...the setup that i have, the space betweent the radiator and the spal fan is about 1/4" +/- so there will be air coming from all parts of the radiator, that's with the aid of the radiator cover.

also the fan strap to mean seems very flimsly (sp?)

actually my oil temperature through stop and go traffic is around 180-185. the air flow is tremendous once the spal fan kicks in. i can feel the air coming from underneath the car...when i open the door.

[Erik@EDGE]

Gotcha! If you have the fan pushed off the face of the radiator by a bit, that is great. Another suggestion would be to use a stiffer metal for the bracketry (aluminum) and drill that sucker out with a bunch of 1" or 2" holes. This would allow more airflow and look really cool ;->

Don't discount the airflow that happens naturally as the car moves. Most race teams don't use any fans at all in the car. I run the Aux fan setup with my delete mod and the car never really gets hot (though I haven't installed my real temp guage yet.....)

[fourfa]

random notes: today with 100F outside temps, I had water and oil temps of 230F. That's with 80C thermostat, no engine fan, just the stock front aux fan, A/C on.

At this temp there was ZERO movement on the stock water temp gauge.

[M3Jokster]

today, w/ 85F outside temp,

Fan Delete MOD w/ Spal fan.

My stock temp gauge stayed dead center and my oil temp stayed below 190F w/ the A/C crank on max..during traffic (stop and go traffic) w/ 4 people in the car.

[kitwetzler]

erik, actually tests I've done with a should show that the fan actually flows more air through the radiator with a shrould than without. drilling it would hurt. The problem that M3Jokster's setup has is that the fan is too close to the radiator. I tried a similar setup, but you need at least a little bit of funnel to get the air flowing really well.

[Erik@EDGE]

Kit I don't think his setup really qualifies as a shroud. Shrouds generally protrude from the outside rim of the radiator and direct air at a mechanical fan, helping to eliminate "wash". His design basically blocks airflow through a large portion of the radiator. Will be interesting to see how it works