The Ultimate Engine Oil Guide for E36 M3... First stop for any information/questions

[GFG]

So many oils, really dont know what i have to pick. Its almost a candy store.
Right now i have Esso 10w40...but the engine is a bit rough especially on cold starts. You guys think i better can go for something thinner, like 0w40 or 5w30? Its a daily driver and i do alot of short driving (under 7 miles).

[bmwpowere36m3]

So many oils, really dont know what i have to pick. Its almost a candy store.
Right now i have Esso 10w40...but the engine is a bit rough especially on cold starts. You guys think i better can go for something thinner, like 0w40 or 5w30? Its a daily driver and i do alot of short driving (under 7 miles).

Just know, that *all* S50, S52, M50, & M52 motors in E36-Chassis BMW's start a little rough, some more than others. Here in the US, they updated the ECU programming to smoothen out cold starts. From what I've read, the rough start was a way of passing strict Euro emissions, by quickly heating the catalytic converters (Europe had strict emissions on cold-engines, here we normally start them up and run till very warm/efficient).

If it runs a little rough for ~30-60secs on Cold starts, I wouldn't attribute that to oil weight. Having a hard time cranking over the motor cold, would be due to "heavy" cold oil. Look at the temp scales for the oil and determine how cold it gets in Holland in the winter and run the appropriate oil, something: 0W-xx or 5W-xx would be good.

[L3000C]

Just know, that *all* S50, S52, M50, & M52 motors in E36-Chassis BMW's start a little rough, some more than others. Here in the US, they updated the ECU programming to smoothen out cold starts. From what I've read, the rough start was a way of passing strict Euro emissions, by quickly heating the catalytic converters (Europe had strict emissions on cold-engines, here we normally start them up and run till very warm/efficient).

If it runs a little rough for ~30-60secs on Cold starts, I wouldn't attribute that to oil weight. Having a hard time cranking over the motor cold, would be due to "heavy" cold oil. Look at the temp scales for the oil and determine how cold it gets in Holland in the winter and run the appropriate oil, something: 0W-xx or 5W-xx would be good.

+1

in the colder winters, you should stick with a 5w-xx oil, or even a 0w-xx oil if there is snow outside, or around 30 F ever.


make sure to allow your car enough time to properly warm up as well, dont rev a cold car over 3k, should take about 20 minutes before you rev over 4k.

[javamon]

in the colder winters, you should stick with a 5w-xx oil, or even a 0w-xx oil if there is snow outside, or around 30 F ever.

Just a quick note - there is no such thing as a 0w oil - it's marketing fluff. It is essentially still a 5w. But your advice remains solid - stick with 5w on the low end in cool/cold temps.

I posted up in a thread on something else and sorta jacked it, but it seems more appropriate here. A good oil in our car is mobil 1 5w-40 turbo diesel truck. I'm not going through the discussion again (search if you want to find it), but it's a solid oil, esp. for the cold winter months. I suggest people give it a try (and do a blackstone oil analysis - like you should with any oil you try).

[ButtDyno]

make sure to allow your car enough time to properly warm up as well, dont rev a cold car over 3k, should take about 20 minutes before you rev over 4k.

20 minutes? Is this based on actual readings from an oil temp gauge?

I have an oil temp gauge in my WRX, and it takes about 5 minutes in the summer, about 10 in the winter, in order for the oil to hit its normal operating temperature. 20 is a lot.

[bmwpowere36m3]

20 minutes? Is this based on actual readings from an oil temp gauge?

I have an oil temp gauge in my WRX, and it takes about 5 minutes in the summer, about 10 in the winter, in order for the oil to hit its normal operating temperature. 20 is a lot.

I would agree with L3000C as I have a redundant set of oil temp gauges (one in the oil filter housing and the oil pan) and the oil temps don't reach ~160°F or higher in the summer in less than 20 minutes. It'll take ~5 min just to reach 180°F water temperature (~50-90°F ambient temp). In the winter, I'd be lucky if they reach 140°F in anything but an 1+ hour drive... unless its sustained higher rpm's like on the highway.

If you're really going to beat on the engine, then you should really what till oil temp reaches 180+°F.

[Hova]

20 minutes? Is this based on actual readings from an oil temp gauge?

I have an oil temp gauge in my WRX, and it takes about 5 minutes in the summer, about 10 in the winter, in order for the oil to hit its normal operating temperature. 20 is a lot.

N/A produces less heat, and our M3`s have more oil to heat up.

[ButtDyno]

Cool, good to know. I was genuinely curious since I don't have gauges on this car (yet).

[cosmoscount]

Wal-Mart Super Tech Farm & Fleet 15W-40
$8.48 for a 5 qt jug.

DONE.

[bmwpowere36m3]

Wal-Mart Super Tech Farm & Fleet 15W-40
$8.48 for a 5 qt jug.

DONE.

You bought really cheap oil, great

[Hova]

Wal-Mart Super Tech Farm & Fleet 15W-40
$8.48 for a 5 qt jug.

DONE.

after loctiting my oil pump nut, replacing my oil pan gasket, and valve cover gasket, as well as installing an M50 mani, and headers, i used super tech 5w-40 to flush out any sand/shit metal shavings in the oil pan... after a few laps around my neighborhood (under 5 miles), i changed my oil to my regular rotella-t 5w-40, along with a new filter (call me OCD)

[frost12850]

I just changed my oil... ran Castrol Syntec 5w-30... its what I always put in...

[libravcs]

You bought really cheap oil, great

No, he didnt fall for marketing hype/didnt subsidize the cost of major oil label marketing costs, and probably checked his owners manual to find out the oil specification requirements for his car, then checked the labels on the jug of Super Tech oil and learned that Super Tech's spec EXCEED BMW oil requirements. He most likely also learned that Wal Mart doesnt make oil..and that Super Tech is actually refined by a major refinery, then has quality additives added to reach the proper oil specs.

Actually..he's a smart guy who is spending his money wisely while at the same time, providing excellent protection for his engine.

[bmwpowere36m3]

No, he didnt fall for marketing hype/didnt subsidize the cost of major oil label marketing costs, and probably checked his owners manual to find out the oil specification requirements for his car, then checked the labels on the jug of Super Tech oil and learned that Super Tech's spec EXCEED BMW oil requirements. He most likely also learned that Wal Mart doesnt make oil..and that Super Tech is actually refined by a major refinery, then has quality additives added to reach the proper oil specs.

Actually..he's a smart guy who is spending his money wisely while at the same time, providing excellent protection for his engine.

Wait, your saying he's a smart guy for not spending money on major marketed oil brand... but yet you fill yours up with Shell Rotella! I guess your not so smart then Honestly please leave your opinion out, its not welcome.

I would like to see oil test results of that oil... the only brand that follows your crazy reasoning in my mind is Mobil 1, yet tests prove they make great oil as well. Some oils cost more because of marketing, some because of base stocks and blends.

[libravcs]

Read the thread again. that was another responder that referenced Rotella. I never used Rotella nor have I ever posted I used rotella. :smile:

And if you want to see test results of Super Tech synthetic, just check out the detailed analysis at bobistheoilguy.com

[lagunae34m5]

awesome write-up. I recently bought my E36M3 and the manual is gone. The PO insisted on 20W-50 dino oil every 3k miles. I prefer synthetic for both of my cars: more stable in the garage queen M5 and longer intervals in the DD M3. The 3k miles are up so I bought 10W-30 regular Mobil 1 at Costco but it's not on the list. is it such a bad idea? the only other option was 5W-30. I figured I don't need the 5W in CA and I didn't think the S52US was a 15W-50 engine like the S38, which has loose clearances for high RPM and leaks like a sieve.

thanks,

[98DakarM3]

awesome write-up. I recently bought my E36M3 and the manual is gone. The PO insisted on 20W-50 dino oil every 3k miles. I prefer synthetic for both of my cars: more stable in the garage queen M5 and longer intervals in the DD M3. The 3k miles are up so I bought 10W-30 regular Mobil 1 at Costco but it's not on the list. is it such a bad idea? the only other option was 5W-30. I figured I don't need the 5W in CA and I didn't think the S52US was a 15W-50 engine like the S38, which has loose clearances for high RPM and leaks like a sieve.

thanks,

Mobil 1 5w-30 is not Mobil's best oil. It does not offer enough high temperature protection that a higher performance engine needs.

[rossiski]

Thanks for validating Mobil 1 0W-40 Synthetic. It's good for Chicago all year round. Summer oil temps never get above 210 and it's good for the cold in January (reached -20 F three months ago).

[olemiss540]

I am running Mobile1 0-40 and like it just fine. I was thinking of switching to the Amsoil 5W-40 because they are the same price. Any thoughts? For info, I live in Tulsa, OK.

[NHmfree]

Sorry to bring this thread back up once again, but figured it's better than starting a whole new thread. The car has schrick cams among other basic n/a mods, and will only be tracked once or twice at most this summer. What I am most concerned about is that the car has 140k on it and recently it has started to tick when it starts. Thinking of going with 5w40. Will this be alright for a high mileage engine? Would anybody recommend something else?

I'll probably have to change the oil again before the dreadful NH winter, even though the car won't get driven much if at all. I still think I'd run 5w40 but not really concerned with that right now.

TIA

[libravcs]

awesome write-up. I recently bought my E36M3 and the manual is gone. The PO insisted on 20W-50 dino oil every 3k miles. I prefer synthetic for both of my cars: more stable in the garage queen M5 and longer intervals in the DD M3. The 3k miles are up so I bought 10W-30 regular Mobil 1 at Costco but it's not on the list. is it such a bad idea? the only other option was 5W-30. I figured I don't need the 5W in CA and I didn't think the S52US was a 15W-50 engine like the S38, which has loose clearances for high RPM and leaks like a sieve.

thanks,

Just an FYI. If you sent your oil in for analysis, Im almost 100% certain you will find that your 3k mile oil is still fully intact/well within spec, and still fully protecting your engine. The report will probably show that you have at least 6-7k more miles left on the oil before needing replacement.
Of course thats purely factual, technical data that they (Blackstone Labs) will provide. If you feel emotionally better going with the Jiffy Lube recommended interval, then thats purely a personal choice.

[bmwpowere36m3]

Sorry to bring this thread back up once again, but figured it's better than starting a whole new thread. The car has schrick cams among other basic n/a mods, and will only be tracked once or twice at most this summer. What I am most concerned about is that the car has 140k on it and recently it has started to tick when it starts. Thinking of going with 5w40. Will this be alright for a high mileage engine? Would anybody recommend something else?

I'll probably have to change the oil again before the dreadful NH winter, even though the car won't get driven much if at all. I still think I'd run 5w40 but not really concerned with that right now.

TIA

5W-40 is good, I also run it in my 150,xxx mile M3. I run it year-round, CT, including DD and track duties. Some ticking on start-up is normal/okay as long as it goes away. Make sure oil level is FULL. Ticking can be solved by flushing the oil system with thinner oil or ATF or Seafoam added and following the BMW TIS Lifter Tick Procedure. If that doesn't work, double check the oil pressure, and if all that is good then it might be time for new lifters.

To help prevent lifter tick in the future, for track/auto-x, then overfill the oil by ~1 qt (it helps some). The proper fix would be an oil pan baffle or euro/S54 dual sump pan.

[TH3 Shifty]

anyone seen this new oil by Castrol? i saw it yesterday at checker...

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/secti...tentId=7050795

they wanted $8.95 for 1 quart!!! and that was "on sale"

[NHmfree]

5W-40 is good, I also run it in my 150,xxx mile M3. I run it year-round, CT, including DD and track duties. Some ticking on start-up is normal/okay as long as it goes away. Make sure oil level is FULL. Ticking can be solved by flushing the oil system with thinner oil or ATF or Seafoam added and following the BMW TIS Lifter Tick Procedure. If that doesn't work, double check the oil pressure, and if all that is good then it might be time for new lifters.

To help prevent lifter tick in the future, for track/auto-x, then overfill the oil by ~1 qt (it helps some). The proper fix would be an oil pan baffle or euro/S54 dual sump pan.

5w-40 it is. Thanks!

[dawgeatdawg]

My manual says 15-40. my engine is stock, about 90,000 miles on it. should I use this oil?