Window not going all the way up, doors not locking, etc

[TR6]

An odd problem started yesterday evening when I drove home from work in my 99 M Coupe. When I got out of the car in the driveway, the drivers side window dipped slightly as it usually does when you open it, but then when I shut the door, the window didn't go up all the way as it normally does. Further, when I clicked the remote/alarm button to lock the doors, the alarm armed but the door locks would not lock. I can manually lock them by turning the key in the door. I can also still unlock them with the remote, but not lock them. So the car currently has the drivers window slightly open as it would if the car door were open. Further, the interior light is staying on (unless I switch it off altogether) as if the car thinks the door is still open.

Not sure if this is related, but about a week or so ago, the rear hatch lock stopped working with the remote and I have to open the rear hatch with the key.

Any thoughts on this?

[TR6]

Additional information: It seems to be somewhat intermittent. I went out to lunch and the window and door locks (and interior light) worked properly when I arrived at the restaurant. Then driving back to my office, it malfuntioned again and would not go all the way up. Then back at work, when I shut the door it worked fine. What could be causing this?

[M Coupen It]

So the window will drop down when the door opens, but when you shut it, the window does not go back up? Maybe the door open switch is getting sticky. It is located by the part that the door latch latches onto. Might explain whe the doors dont lock too.....thinks that the door is open so it doesnt lock. Doesnt explain the hatch deal though.

[CLWN FT]

It sounds like it could possiblly be the switch in door jam that is activated when you close the door to roll the window the rest of the way up. After year of use it can wear down to the point were it won't activate sometimes.

[TR6]

A switch in the door sounds like it makes sense. That fits the symptoms (except the hatch) that I am experiencing. I need to find an exploded diagram of the switch and related mechanism.

I suspect the hatch unlocking issue is unrelated. It started a couple of weeks earlier. It feels like there is some kind of solenoid that is trying to unlatch the hatch, but it is not able to for some reason. When I use the key to unlock/open the hatch, it feels like there is too much resistance when I turn the key in the cylinder.

[ronnie38]

I had a problem with the body electronics module ZKE IV that is above the glove box. I got one at at bone yard and replaced it.

[TR6]

Good news. I fixed it. The problem was the striker latch in the drivers door (mounted to the body). Part number 51-21-8-399-245 . The "barrel" on the striker latch mounted to the body was worn from use and the outer plastic sleeve on the barrel had cracked and come off. Apparently, this gave the door latching mechanism just enough play that it wasn't actuating the switch in the striker latch to tell the car that the door was shut. There is actually a switch on the striker latch that you can push manually with your finger and it will fool the car into thinking the door is shut. The new part was about $70 at the dealer and it took about 30 minutes to install. Problem solved.

Of course, my rear hatch lock problem remains as it was unrelated...