Fikse Help

[n3wbie]

First off, I've decided to tackle down the Fikse FM10's Wheel Disassembly / Preparation / Reassembly.

I've searched the boards and I haven't seen an answer yet.

1. Does Fikse have any certain RTV that they recommended or will the GE II sealant work?
2. Does it matter on the color of Loctite?
3. Anyone know the correct bolt torque specs?
4. Can you powder coat the forged centers?

[n3wbie]

Anybody..?

[randytt]

First off, I've decided to tackle down the Fikse FM10's Wheel Disassembly / Preparation / Reassembly.

I've searched the boards and I haven't seen an answer yet.

1. Does Fikse have any certain RTV that they recommended or will the GE II sealant work?
2. Does it matter on the color of Loctite?
3. Anyone know the correct bolt torque specs?
4. Can you powder coat the forged centers?
not 100% on any of these, but this i wat i've learned from doing a couple sets of 2 and 3 pc bbs's... should be the same for all wheels

1. any wheel sealant should. fiske does not tell u what they use just so u cant copy them... bastids
2. i use blue on the wheels i've done. no problems
3. bbs said 30lbs or something close to there, i did ~40lbs. star pattern, increasing torque in intervals.
4. i am pretty sure u can. i've never done it tho.

good luck!

[n3wbie]

not 100% on any of these, but this i wat i've learned from doing a couple sets of 2 and 3 pc bbs's... should be the same for all wheels

1. any wheel sealant should. fiske does not tell u what they use just so u cant copy them... bastids heard GE Silicone II (clear) works best
2. i use blue on the wheels i've done. no problems I've heard red is fine too?
3. bbs said 30lbs or something close to there, i did ~40lbs. star pattern, increasing torque in intervals. from what i've read, it's 15-20 ft/lbs
4. i am pretty sure u can. i've never done it tho. Hmmm

good luck!

Thanks Randy!

[95RogueM3]

1) I didnt use any sort of silicone when reattaching the centers to the barrel (I didnt take apart the barrels)

2) I used blue loctite. Red is supposed to be permanent.

3) 18 ft/lbs is what I tightened to. Fikse used to give this out, but no longer does. 40 ft/lbs is WAY too high for bolts that tiny.

4) I dont know if you can powdercoat or not. You can have them anodized. The only issue with PC is that it can make the wheels brittle on account of the heat used to cure the PC. Ive seen Kosei K1s crack after being powdercoated (granted they arent forged to begin with).

[n3wbie]

1) I didnt use any sort of silicone when reattaching the centers to the barrel (I didnt take apart the barrels)

2) I used blue loctite. Red is supposed to be permanent.

3) 18 ft/lbs is what I tightened to. Fikse used to give this out, but no longer does. 40 ft/lbs is WAY too high for bolts that tiny.

4) I dont know if you can powdercoat or not. You can have them anodized. The only issue with PC is that it can make the wheels brittle on account of the heat used to cure the PC. Ive seen Kosei K1s crack after being powdercoated (granted they arent forged to begin with).

Rogue you had Fm10's correct? From what i've been reading on the powder coating ordeal, the temp doesn't get hot enough to really do anything. Then again i'm no pro

[95RogueM3]

Rogue you had Fm10's correct? From what i've been reading on the powder coating ordeal, the temp doesn't get hot enough to really do anything. Then again i'm no pro
I still have them on my Avus M3 (still holding air beautifully some 2.5 years after reassembly).

If I could pick between anodization and PC, I would pick PC as its far more durable. I too am no expert and my only reservation is derived from the pics I saw of the PC'd Koseis having cracked badly.

I think the temp is somewhere around 400* for PowderCoat...again, Im not expert on what that would do to the centers.

[n3wbie]

Thanks for your input!

[332 RustBucket]

here is an idea. http://www.fikse.com/ ask them ....

[95RogueM3]

here is an idea. http://www.fikse.com/ ask them ....
They wont give/tell you much. All they were willing to sell me was new center caps. When I asked about getting new hardware, they said they didnt give out the specs or provide replacement hardware but instead would require me to send back my wheel(s) for factory refurbishment.

[n3wbie]

here is an idea. http://www.fikse.com/ ask them ....

Good Idea, Thank you so much! I hadn't thought of it!

[332 RustBucket]

They wont give/tell you much. All they were willing to sell me was new center caps. When I asked about getting new hardware, they said they didnt give out the specs or provide replacement hardware but instead would require me to send back my wheel(s) for factory refurbishment.

Maybe some people just need to know how to ask properly:lol

Dow 832 - http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=2152EN
15lbs
powder coat at your risk, they have heard of it after they leave the shop but don't support it. They have annodized them tho





Good Idea, Thank you so much! I hadn't thought of it!

WOW WASN'T THAT EASY!!!!:rolleyes

[95RogueM3]

Maybe some people just need to know how to ask properly:lol

Dow 832 - http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=2152EN
15lbs
Youre link doesnt work. That said, I didnt need the torque spec when calling, as I already had the information from a friend. I simply wanted to purchase the hardware and was told I couldnt.


WOW WASN'T THAT EASY!!!!:rolleyes
He was being sarcastic. ;)

[332 RustBucket]

Youre link doesnt work.



Weird, link works for me? :dunno, anyways you can google right big guy?;)


I didnt need the torque spec when calling, as I already had the information from a friend.

I was answering the OP questions, but you even said in your post that they wouldn't give specs.... Unless you mean for the hardware for your wheels which you could measure yourself. Get the highest grade avail. :)


They wont give/tell you much. All they were willing to sell me was new center caps. When I asked about getting new hardware, they said they didnt give out the specs or provide replacement hardware but instead would require me to send back my wheel(s) for factory refurbishment.





Quote:
WOW WASN'T THAT EASY!!!!
He was being sarcastic.


I realize, but it was JUST THAT EASY :)

[95RogueM3]

Weird, link works for me? :dunno, anyways you can google right big guy?;)
A) No need to attempt patronization. It makes you look goofy on the internet.

B) Again, I dont need to search...my wheels have been done for 2.5 years.

[n3wbie]

Maybe some people just need to know how to ask properly:lol

Dow 832 - http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=2152EN
15lbs
powder coat at your risk, they have heard of it after they leave the shop but don't support it. They have annodized them tho

WOW WASN'T THAT EASY!!!!:rolleyes

Did you call and ask or did you just google?

[332 RustBucket]

A) No need to attempt patronization. It makes you look goofy on the internet.

B) Again, I dont need to search...my wheels have been done for 2.5 years.


Goofy on the internet? HaHa, good one. If you didn't need to search why did you click the link?;)

Relax man, just having some fun, sorry if you couldn't see my sarcasm back at him earlier. Honestly, he could have saved a ton of time, both ours and his. It took me all of 2 minutes to find the site and contact them. Got all the info that he was looking for with ZERO issues. :dunno

[332 RustBucket]

Did you call and ask or did you just google?

I called and asked :)

[n3wbie]

I called and asked :)

FM10's? DAMN! I've called a few times and emailed. :( Maybe it's the sound of your voice ;)

[332 RustBucket]

FM10's? DAMN! I've called a few times and emailed. :( Maybe it's the sound of your voice ;)

Yup, literally took everything off your post so I wouldn't get it wrong. :) :dunno Maybe it is cause I am a chick... People do say I should be a sex line operator. :dunno

[n3wbie]

Yup, literally took everything off your post so I wouldn't get it wrong. :) :dunno Maybe it is cause I am a chick... People do say I should be a sex line operator. :dunno

I had no idea! hahahaha well thanks! Saved me the trouble haha ;)

[BSH]

I took apart one of my Dinan/Fikse FM5 wheels and it only had sealant at the junction of the inner and outer barrel (when the wheel is bolted together). There wasn't any loctite on the bolts.

I presume the (stretch) bolts are one-time use only. Is that why you guys are using loctite blue when reassembling your wheels?

[n3wbie]

I took apart one of my Dinan/Fikse FM5 wheels and it only had sealant at the junction of the inner and outer barrel (when the wheel is bolted together). There wasn't any loctite on the bolts.

I presume the (stretch) bolts are one-time use only. Is that why you guys are using loctite blue when reassembling your wheels?

I would get that chick to call again :stickoutt

[Thewiseguy]

noone called me. I just reasembled mine. You guys all have my number I dont have a problem walking you through it.

[Thewiseguy]

FYI it is very very important to use a specific type of sealant. There is also a specific process in which you do this.

[n3wbie]

FYI it is very very important to use a specific type of sealant. There is also a specific process in which you do this.

Well you want to lay the process out for us? :)

[Thewiseguy]

Well you want to lay the process out for us? :)

not really. Just call. Its kindof special info. its like the G spot.

[n3wbie]

not really. Just call. Its kindof special info. its like the G spot.

LMAO :lol ... I would call but i just don't like calling people? haha how about email?

[BSH]

Last time I checked rebuilding a 3pc wasn't rocket science.

Why not just use the CCW procedure as a guide? Click here for wheel repair videos (http://www.ccwheel.com/files/technical.php)

Just torque the wheel bolts to whatever the consensus is here for Fikse wheel bolts and use the recommended RTV sealant in the link above.


Am I missing something here? :dunno

[n3wbie]

Last time I checked rebuilding a 3pc wasn't rocket science.

Why not just use the CCW procedure as a guide? Click here for wheel repair videos (http://www.ccwheel.com/files/technical.php)

Just torque the wheel bolts to whatever the consensus is here for Fikse wheel bolts and use the recommended RTV sealant in the link above.


Am I missing something here? :dunno

I would completely agree with you, but if someone knows the "FIKSE way" then why not do it that way?

[95RogueM3]

I would completely agree with you, but if someone knows the "FIKSE way" then why not do it that way?
I think when it comes to attaching the center, the Fikse way makes sense. However, when attaching the two parts of the barell, I would bet any of the dozens of 3-piece wheel makers offer a similar technique.

PM member "KarlSpackler" as I know he has done this MANY times with his different BBS wheels and Kodiak shells.

[n3wbie]

I think when it comes to attaching the center, the Fikse way makes sense. However, when attaching the two parts of the barell, I would bet any of the dozens of 3-piece wheel makers offer a similar technique.

PM member "KarlSpackler" as I know he has done this MANY times with his different BBS wheels and Kodiak shells.

I was referring the someone to thewiseguy since he knows "the way" :)

[Thewiseguy]

I was referring the someone to thewiseguy since he knows "the way" :)

u gonna call yet?

[n3wbie]

u gonna call yet?

No rush here sir, still cleaning the perrrrrtttty lips :)

[WCM3]

Now i'm asking...wiseguy what's the correct way?

[Daniel325i]

Now i'm asking...wiseguy what's the correct way?

I'd like to know this as well.

[Thewiseguy]

Split them, cut away all of the sealer. I like to use blue loctite and torque to 18ft lbs. Now put the wheel on a balancer. Use painters tape to tape off the area on either side of the groove. Use audi factory sealant. Its super expensive but its the best shit! Be careful it dries fast. BTW if you are planning on splitting them again soon just use clear sealing caulk with a gun. It makes applying this much faster and easier.

Oh and these can be powdercoated, but do not powdercoat the lips or barrels. BTW keep in mind that you can send them back to fikse to have them anodize the wheels.

[WCM3]

Split them, cut away all of the sealer. I like to use blue loctite and torque to 18ft lbs. Now put the wheel on a balancer. Use painters tape to tape off the area on either side of the groove. Use audi factory sealant. Its super expensive but its the best shit! Be careful it dries fast. BTW if you are planning on splitting them again soon just use clear sealing caulk with a gun. It makes applying this much faster and easier.

Oh and these can be powdercoated, but do not powdercoat the lips or barrels. BTW keep in mind that you can send them back to fikse to have them anodize the wheels.

Thanks man! Any details on the audi sealant? I searched on google and didn't come up with anything.

[Thewiseguy]

Thanks man! Any details on the audi sealant? I searched on google and didn't come up with anything.

Its factory sealant, the dealers use it for everything from oil pans to valve covers. Its thick white crap.

[tEckniks]

hmm i may do this.. my fikse faces are beat

[3ternal]

We use DOW 832 Sealant.

Reassemble to 180 inch (15 ft) lbs

Tape off all contact points of the wheel before powdercoat especially where the rim halves come together otherwise they'll never go back together flush, i don't recommend powdercoating them either way though.

Cheers,
Yuriy @ Fikse

[WCM3]

We use DOW 832 Sealant.

Reassemble to 180 inch (15 ft) lbs

Tape off all contact points of the wheel especially where the rim halves come together otherwise they'll never go back together flush.

Cheers,
Yuriy @ Fikse

You are the man, Yuriy.

[3ternal]

No prob.

Anywhere a rim half sits on the center needs to remain untouched if there will be any refinishing undone. It's a VERY tight fit as it is without any paint on it, so if you powdercoat the area where the center sits you'll spend days trying to squeeze your center in with the rim halves and chances are you'll damage something. Use some type of tape or covering to cover that area off, and you'll be fine.

If anything I recommend people contact us before doing anything like this to avoid ending up needing a new centers. Plus I wouldn't mind seeing the finished product. Btw as you've probably noticed this is off the record as this is my personal account lol. My email is yz@fikse.com

[NikosX]

Hmmm... This information has been VERY helpful for these:

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r216/NikosxM5/Wheels/PB220001.jpg

[WCM3]

No prob.

Anywhere a rim half sits on the center needs to remain untouched if there will be any refinishing undone. It's a VERY tight fit as it is without any paint on it, so if you powdercoat the area where the center sits you'll spend days trying to squeeze your center in with the rim halves and chances are you'll damage something. Use some type of tape or covering to cover that area off, and you'll be fine.

If anything I recommend people contact us before doing anything like this to avoid ending up needing a new centers. Plus I wouldn't mind seeing the finished product. Btw as you've probably noticed this is off the record as this is my personal account lol. My email is yz@fikse.com

Thanks again. I must have totally missed the "powdercoating" part of that line because I was so lost. When I read it again, I understood that you meant tape it up so the coat doesn't get on it. The only idea I had was to take the wheels apart and spray the barrel with a black paint. This will make it not look as raggedy years ahead. I figured I would polish the lip and clean up the face of the wheel while I was at it.

Any reason that you can't buy replacement hardware? We are safe to use old bolts, with some blue loctite?

[NikosX]

Its factory sealant, the dealers use it for everything from oil pans to valve covers. Its thick white crap.

Could I bring mine to you? lol

[3ternal]

Due to potentially improper reassembly we can't be condoning the disassembly/reassembly of our wheels. We typically only sell hardware to race teams. If you insist on doing it yourself though ask for me and I'll see what I can do.

If you need wheels reassembled just hit me up, at $125 a wheel it's not that bad considering you get full diag, reseal, and new fasteners done correctly.

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r216/NikosxM5/Wheels/PB220001.jpg

Dinan Fikse 5's, Old school lol.

[NikosX]

What's your name?

[3ternal]

Cheers,
Yuriy @ Fikse

:)

[NikosX]

Oh! Lol weve spoken on the phone. I called you about two weeks ago.

[3ternal]

Ha, yeah if you call chances are I'll pick up. I'm always around to help out fellow Bimmer owners ;)

[NikosX]

I need to have two of them straightened, because I cant swing your guy's cost of new parts.

How do I work this out that i have them straightened and then sent to you for re assembly?

[WCM3]

I need to have two of them straightened, because I cant swing your guy's cost of new parts.

How do I work this out that i have them straightened and then sent to you for re assembly?

Don't disassemble. Send to http://www.wheelcollision.com/ for repair. Then send them to fikse if you want..

[TyKBlue82]

Don't disassemble. Send to http://www.wheelcollision.com/ for repair. Then send them to fikse if you want..

WOWZA! The chick in that link has nice tatas! :drool:

[n3wbie]

Hey thewiseguy, you think Audi has good sealant, you need to get your hands on a container of Toyota seal (worldpac carries it). now THAT shit is badass