View Full Version : E34 M30 oil pump "bearing bolt"
bmwpower
02-05-2008, 09:50 AM
Any idea what the bearing bolt/spring thing does on the M30 oil pump? What's it's role?
Part #7, #8, #9, #10 in question....
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD23&mospid=47408&btnr=11_0503&hg=11&fg=30
xatlas0
02-05-2008, 10:22 AM
EDIT: Well, I was completely wrong on that one.
Binjammin
02-05-2008, 10:29 AM
7,8,9,10 is a pressure relief. It there were something wrong with your engine that deadheaded the oil pump but the engine kept running the pressure would need to go somewhere, as you can't compress a liquid. If that weren't there you'd hydraulic your oil pump.
bmwpower
02-05-2008, 01:49 PM
7,8,9,10 is a pressure relief. It there were something wrong with your engine that deadheaded the oil pump but the engine kept running the pressure would need to go somewhere, as you can't compress a liquid. If that weren't there you'd hydraulic your oil pump.
So where does the pressure get released? At the bottom?
Binjammin
02-05-2008, 02:16 PM
I've got pics, I'll post them as soon as photosuckit comes back up.
bmwpower
02-06-2008, 03:29 AM
I've got pics, I'll post them as soon as photosuckit comes back up.
Cool!
Mr Project
02-06-2008, 07:19 AM
Isn't there just a passage that dumps the oil back into the pan if it makes it past the valve?
Binjammin
02-06-2008, 12:22 PM
Ok, photobucket is back from its nap. Here's some pics.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/Bin_jammin/DSCN1104.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/Bin_jammin/DSCN1105.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/Bin_jammin/DSCN1106.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/Bin_jammin/DSCN1107.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/Bin_jammin/DSCN1108.jpg
bmwpower
02-06-2008, 01:01 PM
Great, thanks! Good picts. So it looks like the valve passage is continuous with the pickup and rotor assembly such that is there is a buildup of pressure in the pump, the pressure is dumped out the little hole.
I wonder if this "valve" could possibly leak? I'm having trouble with slow-to-pressurize oil pressure after an oil change and I'm wondering if this valve could be leaky.
If the car's backend is raised higher than the front before initial startup, (ie, on ramps) it pressurizes quicker, but still slower. Bentley mentions something about cracking the lid of the canister if you get no initial oil pressure when first starting after an oil change. When you see oil start to come out, tighten the lid. Supposedly, alleviates a buildup of air in the system. I dunno. I had tried this some time ago and all it did was make a huge mess.
I checked the spray bar banjo bolts several weeks ago and I re-torqued them with threadlocker, so I would hope they wouldn't be loose.
Oil pressure sender is on back of head...and fairly new.
Also, tried another oil canister, but problem still persists.
Thoughts?
bmwpower
02-06-2008, 01:04 PM
One more thing.... is the OUTER rotor piece sit up tight against the housing? Or is there a gap around the perimeter? Plan B would be to consider replacing part of the pump, if possible.
Binjammin
02-06-2008, 01:15 PM
No, the whole pump is tight. I had an oil pressure problem when I swapped engines in my car, the new engine wouldn't build pressure, that's why this pump came out. Turns out I had a couple pieces of RTV that had been stuck in the baffle in the pan that floated out and plugged the pickup. THAT was a fun July 4th. I'd consider putting an oil pressure gauge on the car, that will tell you the truth about your oil pressure before you go chasing ghosts.
bmwpower
02-06-2008, 01:38 PM
No, the whole pump is tight. I had an oil pressure problem when I swapped engines in my car, the new engine wouldn't build pressure, that's why this pump came out. Turns out I had a couple pieces of RTV that had been stuck in the baffle in the pan that floated out and plugged the pickup. THAT was a fun July 4th. I'd consider putting an oil pressure gauge on the car, that will tell you the truth about your oil pressure before you go chasing ghosts.
That's what I'm thinking, too.
I just had my whole pan, etc. off to do the timing chain and the pickup had a couple pieces of oil pan gasket inside the pickup, too. Pickup is clean now, so that shouldn't be the issue unless little pieces of crap got past the pickup and are fouling up things in the pump.
So let's say I see on the gauge that it's slow to build pressure, just like the light is indicating. There's no way to tell if the valve is failing without replacing #7-#10, right?
Binjammin
02-06-2008, 02:05 PM
Well, I wouldn't go throwing parts at it, I'd start by taking the pump apart and inspecting it.
Binjammin
02-06-2008, 02:06 PM
Also, I believe there's a drain back valve in the filter canister, it keeps the oil in the canister from draining back into the sump when the engine stops. I'm pretty sure there's one in there, check realoem again. If there is, I'd say that's probably your best shot.
bmwpower
02-06-2008, 03:03 PM
Also, I believe there's a drain back valve in the filter canister, it keeps the oil in the canister from draining back into the sump when the engine stops. I'm pretty sure there's one in there, check realoem again. If there is, I'd say that's probably your best shot.
Yea, I've already replaced the original canister with a new one. The new canister appears to have fixed the "leakdown over time" problem when you don't drive the car for a day or more, but it did not fix the "start up after oil change" problem. I'm thinking it's gotta be something with the pump, ie not being able to pump up the system quick enough, leakage in the pump, or similar.
I even prefilled the oil canister before starting...still have slow to pressurize problem.
How long does it take your oil light to go out when starting up?
How long does it take your oil light to go out after an oil/filter change?
Binjammin
02-06-2008, 03:26 PM
You may want to start a new thread for that question, but it usually takes me about 3 seconds of cranking to build enough pressure to put the light out. Sometimes less. Haven't done an oil change in a while, I'm overdue so maybe I'll do that soon and get back to you. Normally on most cars it's about 5 seconds of cranking though. Maybe 10 on some bigger engines.
bmwpower
02-06-2008, 03:46 PM
You may want to start a new thread for that question, but it usually takes me about 3 seconds of cranking to build enough pressure to put the light out. Sometimes less. Haven't done an oil change in a while, I'm overdue so maybe I'll do that soon and get back to you. Normally on most cars it's about 5 seconds of cranking though. Maybe 10 on some bigger engines.
Hmmmm. Good idea, I will start a new thread on that question.
xatlas0
02-06-2008, 04:27 PM
When you did the spray bar, did you do the dual-pressure mod to it? It will help save the front cam lobe.
bmwpower
02-06-2008, 05:29 PM
When you did the spray bar, did you do the dual-pressure mod to it? It will help save the front cam lobe.
No, I didn't modify the bar. I just pulled the bolts, which were slightly loose and added threadlocker and retorqued.
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