DIY: Window Regulator (Advanced)

[nathancarter]

This is for my 2002 330i sedan. It is probably applicable to many similar models.

This DIY assumes the following:
1. You already know how to access and remove the window regulators (E46 Window Regulator (http://www.skene.org/bmw/window/index.html))
2. You're pretty mechanically inclined and have a reasonable tool kit
3. You're a cheapskate like me, and don't want to buy a new regulator if the old one is repairable.

When both my front windows died on me, I figured I would open them up, pop on a couple zip ties, and be on my way. However, I found damage beyond what could be repaired in the "usual" manner. Not wanting to shell out $150-200 for two new regulators, I attempted to repair them.

Part 1: The Knob & Cradle (because I don't know what else to call them)
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/01cradleandslide.jpg

The Knob must sit securely in the Cradle. If it's not broken, the Cradle has a plastic tab that holds onto the cable, thereby keeping the Knob in place. However, the cable is always pressing against that tab, and eventually will break it off, allowing the knob to roam free. Note that this is the usual failure mode for these window regulators, and if this is your only problem, it can probably be repaired with just zip ties.

DON'T OVER-TIGHTEN THE ZIP TIES or they will break once you start reassembling and operating the window (ask how I know).

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/02notbroken.jpg

I cleaned the parts thoroughly using brake cleaner. I then used a combination of zip ties and Gorilla Glue to make sure that Knob ain't goin' nowhere:

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/03gluedcradle.jpg

Gorilla Glue requires a bit of water to activate. After it is activated, it will foam up a bit after several minutes. So DON'T USE TOO MUCH! I swabbed out a bit of this with a Q-tip.



http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/04toomuchglue.jpg


Part 2: Broken pulleys
The regulator cable glides along a rounded nylon/plastic "pulley". It's not really a pulley since it doesn't rotate, but it effectively works the same, so I'll call it a pulley until someone corrects me.

The forces of the regulator and springs and motor are always attempting to twist this pulley out of its correct position, and only two flimsy plastic nubs hold it in place. Eventually, they will break. I think this is exacerbated by the Knob coming loose from the Cradle, or perhaps vice-versa.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/05brokenpulleys.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/05brokenpulleys2.jpg

There's no way to repair the plastic. But I used something better: Metal.
I used some wood screws to replace the plastic nubs. But, you can't just screw the wood screws into the plastic pulley, you must drill a pilot hole first.
As previously mentioned, there's a lot of force trying to rotate the pulley. So, I used a vise to hold the pulley in the correct position while I drilled the first pilot hole and screwed in the screw. I could not drill the second pilot hole while it was in the vise, since the vise was in the way of my drill chuck.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/06visedrill.jpg

Screw in the screw, remove from vise, drill second pilot hole, and screw in the second screw. DON'T over-tighten or you'll strip the plastic.

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/07onescrew.jpg

I also chose to reinforce the plastic nubs on the other side of the regulator. They weren't broken YET, but I didn't want to do this again.

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/08secondscrew.jpg

This left an unpleasant problem on the back side of the pulley:

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/09screwtips.jpg

I used a bench grinder to grind them flush with the surface of the pulley:

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/10screwsground.jpg


Done!
Wipe down the rails on which the mechanism slides and re-lubricate with a very thin application of grease, then re-install.

This repair has worked for several weeks on my driver's window, which I now use nearly every day. It's fast and quiet.

Unfortunately, it didn't last long on the front passenger window. I haven't yet disassembled it to find out why, but I'll update this post after I do. (buying a new regulator for passenger side).

After going over my photos, I think the pulley wasn't in the exactly right place when I drilled the pilot hole; if you look at the last photo, the cable doesn't exactly line up with the scuffed line on the paint where the cable SHOULD be. I should have rotated the pulley a bit more before drilling the pilot hole.

[FSUmac]

very interesting writeup! Thanks.

You would think the brilliant engineers would just develop a regulator without these issues.

[Mad Dragon]

A regulator without those issues would either break the glass regularly or impale the occupants during a side collision. :stickoutt

[Tacoman]

Yeah, BMW stealerships would come up with something to get you to buy the sub standard crap that they push onto the owners so they can keep breaking stuff and making money...

[McAwesome]

Thats good to know i just bought my car today and knew this car was infamous for this problem so i tried all the windows.... sure enough one broke so i get to bring my new car back already!!! woohoo!!!

[razorwired]

Damnit, your about 20 hrs late with this post i just did mine after reading every thread on this forum about it and this would have been EXTREMELY helpful, i did not even know what a regulator was i just followed a diy but it lacked in the actual fixing. Good post

[jcorrea]

i shall get started on my car tonight!!!!!!!!!! wish me luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[nathancarter]

As I previously noted, this fix didn't last long on my front passenger side. The cradle was just too badly damaged and the glue didn't hold, and the zip ties couldn't keep the cable from sliding up and down, and were cut apart by the cable.

So, I bought a replacement regulator for the front passenger side and reinforced it with the zip ties and screws as shown above.

My repaired driver's window is still smooth and quiet, though it's a little bit slower than the other three windows.

[vladvm]

The zip tie fix works very well. Had it on my car for 4 months now. No problem.:D

[Critter7r]

A regulator without those issues would either break the glass regularly or impale the occupants during a side collision. :stickoutt


I don't think that metal inserts for the pulleys and a more secure "knob" in the "cradle" would be implaing anyone.

It's simply a matter of economics. BMW bean-counters have figured out that it's cheaper to have these regulators manufactured with plastic pulleys and no reinforcement for the "knob" and to replace the ones that fail under warranty, than it is to just have them all manufactured stronger to begin with.

[4FUTBL]

I think i will use JB Weld instead of gorilla glue..it hardes like steel. have used on cracked blocks...thoughts?

[nathancarter]

JB Weld should work just fine. Whatever it takes to make sure the sliding metal bracket stays attached to the cable.

[4FUTBL]

all fixed...went with the gorilla glue no issues thanks

[druggrepp]

Ja, wir bauen besten Autos auf dem Planeten. so gut, wir etwas brechen müssen daher können wir mehr Geld
translate to english you silly americans,

[ph0ngvu]

great writing op. You may want to put DIY Front window regulator: Advanced instead otherwise it is a bit confusing.

[olibubs09]

What if the window in my BMW 325i is stuck and doesnt want to come down? is there a way i can bring down manually?

[inzambo325]

Thanks for the write-up and the many success stories of fixing the front window of a E46. If window is open 2-4" from the top of the door, you'll be able to slide the glass 1/4" with your hands. I suspect a failure mode may likely be the mechanical interface between the "knob" and "cradle". I'll tackle this project next weekend. Thanks again.

[gweigl07]

This is for my 2002 330i sedan. It is probably applicable to many similar models.

This DIY assumes the following:
1. You already know how to access and remove the window regulators (E46 Window Regulator (http://www.skene.org/bmw/window/index.html))
2. You're pretty mechanically inclined and have a reasonable tool kit
3. You're a cheapskate like me, and don't want to buy a new regulator if the old one is repairable.

When both my front windows died on me, I figured I would open them up, pop on a couple zip ties, and be on my way. However, I found damage beyond what could be repaired in the "usual" manner. Not wanting to shell out $150-200 for two new regulators, I attempted to repair them.

Part 1: The Knob & Cradle (because I don't know what else to call them)
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/01cradleandslide.jpg

The Knob must sit securely in the Cradle. If it's not broken, the Cradle has a plastic tab that holds onto the cable, thereby keeping the Knob in place. However, the cable is always pressing against that tab, and eventually will break it off, allowing the knob to roam free. Note that this is the usual failure mode for these window regulators, and if this is your only problem, it can probably be repaired with just zip ties.

DON'T OVER-TIGHTEN THE ZIP TIES or they will break once you start reassembling and operating the window (ask how I know).

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/02notbroken.jpg

I cleaned the parts thoroughly using brake cleaner. I then used a combination of zip ties and Gorilla Glue to make sure that Knob ain't goin' nowhere:

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/03gluedcradle.jpg

Gorilla Glue requires a bit of water to activate. After it is activated, it will foam up a bit after several minutes. So DON'T USE TOO MUCH! I swabbed out a bit of this with a Q-tip.



http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/04toomuchglue.jpg


Part 2: Broken pulleys
The regulator cable glides along a rounded nylon/plastic "pulley". It's not really a pulley since it doesn't rotate, but it effectively works the same, so I'll call it a pulley until someone corrects me.

The forces of the regulator and springs and motor are always attempting to twist this pulley out of its correct position, and only two flimsy plastic nubs hold it in place. Eventually, they will break. I think this is exacerbated by the Knob coming loose from the Cradle, or perhaps vice-versa.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/05brokenpulleys.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/05brokenpulleys2.jpg

There's no way to repair the plastic. But I used something better: Metal.
I used some wood screws to replace the plastic nubs. But, you can't just screw the wood screws into the plastic pulley, you must drill a pilot hole first.
As previously mentioned, there's a lot of force trying to rotate the pulley. So, I used a vise to hold the pulley in the correct position while I drilled the first pilot hole and screwed in the screw. I could not drill the second pilot hole while it was in the vise, since the vise was in the way of my drill chuck.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/06visedrill.jpg

Screw in the screw, remove from vise, drill second pilot hole, and screw in the second screw. DON'T over-tighten or you'll strip the plastic.

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/07onescrew.jpg

I also chose to reinforce the plastic nubs on the other side of the regulator. They weren't broken YET, but I didn't want to do this again.

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/08secondscrew.jpg

This left an unpleasant problem on the back side of the pulley:

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/09screwtips.jpg

I used a bench grinder to grind them flush with the surface of the pulley:

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee281/megarath2000/BMW/Window/10screwsground.jpg


Done!
Wipe down the rails on which the mechanism slides and re-lubricate with a very thin application of grease, then re-install.

This repair has worked for several weeks on my driver's window, which I now use nearly every day. It's fast and quiet.

Unfortunately, it didn't last long on the front passenger window. I haven't yet disassembled it to find out why, but I'll update this post after I do. (buying a new regulator for passenger side).

After going over my photos, I think the pulley wasn't in the exactly right place when I drilled the pilot hole; if you look at the last photo, the cable doesn't exactly line up with the scuffed line on the paint where the cable SHOULD be. I should have rotated the pulley a bit more before drilling the pilot hole. FYI: my rear driver window regulator went kaput. picked one up at advanced auto for 43 bux.(they matched an online price) manufactured by dorman which is a reputable company from ohio. installed in 45 min.

[LFM]

It seems like it's a lot of work to repair it. This is one part i did not get from the dealer when my driver side one went bad. I got mine from napa for 60 bucks.

Sent from my iPad using BF.com

[joekitch]

time for some biblical necroposting (three+ years later) to check and see if this has worked long term for anyone?
also, are the e39 and e46 window regulators very similar.