DIY: E46 Idle Control Valve (ICV)

[GWEEDOspeedo]

The following will be a description on how to get to the Idle Control Valve in at least a 2001 E46 Coupe w/5-speed transmission. I set out to find it because of my rough idle rpms ranging from what seems to be 300 to 1000 in a bouncing fashion occasionally dipping too low and stalling the car.

Tools you'll need:
6mm Socket
10mm Socket
T-40 Torx
Long flat-head screw-driver
**Non-Residue-Leaving cleaner if your ICV is filthy
Tray to hold screws, bolts, loose pieces.

1. Take a deep breath, find your dedication since you won't be able to operate your car until everything has been re-installed, and have at least two hours available.

2. Undo all 5 clips securing the top of the intake box. Remove the mass-air sensor electrical connector by pressing down on the metal retention clip and pulling outward. Separate the front and rear intake tubes to the box and remove the top half with filter insert.

http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv1s.jpg (http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv1s.jpg)
**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv1h.jpg**

3. Remove the two bolts with a 10mm socket. Carefully lift out the bottom half of the intake box.

http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv2s.jpg
**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv2h.jpg**

4. Undo the four clips holding the cover on for the positive battery lead and other electrical cabling. You may want to disconnect the battery lead at this time so you can move the battery lead out of the way.

http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv3s.jpg
**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv3h.jpg**

5. Undo the three twisting retention clips holding the cabin air filter cover on and remove the cover and filter insert.

http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv4s.jpg
**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv4h.jpg**

6. Use the T-40 torx to remove the four bolts holding the cabin air filter box in place and remove the box.

http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv5s.jpg
**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv5h.jpg**

7. Remove rubber moulding from around the brake cylinder housing. Be cautious, there are loose rubber grommets that protect the hoses. Remove the two twisting clips holding the plastic shield that protects the brake cylinder area. The clips are similar to the cabin air filters'.

http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv6s.jpg
**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv6h.jpg**

8. Carefully remove the shield protecting the brake cylinder. Take your time and try different angles as it's an obtuse piece of plastic.

http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv7s.jpg
**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv7h.jpg**

9. Remove the clamps holding the air duct with mass-air flow sensor attached with either a long flat-head screwdriver or 6mm socket. The circled tubing may or may not need to be removed as they may bend out of the way for you. The F-shaped connector is barbed so you will need to use thin flat head screwdrivers to pry it out. I decided to remove mine and broke the lower tube. I'm looking for a replacement though my DIY Super-Glue & Tape job is holding for now.

http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv8s.jpg
**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv8h.jpg**

http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv10s.jpg
**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv9h.jpg**

http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv9s.jpg
**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv10h.jpg**

10. Remove two T-40 torx bolts holding the adjustment box in place against the manifold. Remove the adjustment box by pulling it straight out. I forgot to take a picture with it on so here's a prior one with it circled and the after shot with it removed.

http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv11s.jpg
**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv11h.jpg**

http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv12s.jpg
**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv12h.jpg**

11.Removing this retention clip that is held in place by a T-40 torx bolt may be helpful in freeing up workspace.

http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv13s.jpg
**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv13h.jpg**

12. Remove two T-40 torx bolts holding the Idle Control Valve mount against the Idle Control Valve itself. Also use a flathead screwdriver or 6mm socket to loosen and remove the clamp holding the idle air duct against the Idle Control Valve. Pull the idle air duct off of the Idle Control Valve. It is barbed to secure itself in place but work with it and it'll come off.

http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv14s.jpg
**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv14h.jpg**

13. Remove the electrical connection to the Idle Control Valve by pushing down on the pin and pulling outward. Remove the Idle Control Valve by simply pulling it away from the throttle body duct. It is barbed so work with it and it will come out. Be careful around the ICV mount, it'll bend away but don't put too much backward force against it. This picture was taken after removing the Idle Control Valve. I circled the electrical connector and pointed to the throttle body air duct.

http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv15s.jpg
**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv15h.jpg**

14. Examine your Idle Control Valve. Mine shows a lot of carbon and grime build up. I used brake cleaner on a clean, old, t-shirt that was wrapped 2-ply around the end of a long, thin, flathead screwdriver to poke around and wipe the inside clean. Be sure to get some cleaner inside and twist the ICV back and forth to clean and lubricate. After using the cleaner I took the Idle Control Valve inside to let it dry (it was about 35*F outside).

http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv16s.jpg
**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv16h.jpg**

http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv17s.jpg
**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv17h.jpg**

http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv18s.jpg
**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv18h.jpg**

15. Re-install the ICV and work your way backwards!

16. Smile... it's now three hours later, night-time, and you're all done!

http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv19s.jpg
**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv19h.jpg**

I have noticed a LOT less idle problems but since it's very cold in the morning, some rough idling still occurs. Since the cleansing though, it hasn't stalled due to rough idle.

Please let me know if this helps you in any way or if I've missed/overlooked something!

[ggareis]

Awesome man! Thanks for writing this up!

[Tacoman]

Good job dude. BTW I like your art work, got any gallery showings any time soon? :)

[GWEEDOspeedo]

Maaannn... circles are hard to free-hand with a mouse.

[jmsanders78]

Thanks for the DIY! My ICV is drying (after cleaning) at this very moment.

[FSUmac]

Thank you very much. I just ordered a new valve yesterday in case I got down in there and decided to replace instead of clean.

[GWEEDOspeedo]

You're very welcome!

[jmsanders78]

Alright, car's back together and the idle does seem to be better after my short test drive. I found that, on my car, a T-40 socket fit a little better for removing the cover and ICV mount. I also skipped steps 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8, although step 8 would probably create a little more room to get at a couple of hose clamps (those sucked).

Anyhow, the ICV was pretty dirty - mine has 126,000 miles on it.

Thanks again!

[Hot328Ci]

How much was the valve to replace?? Just wondering. And Clean it out with break cleaner?? or electrical cleaner?? Thanks for the post. very awesome.

[lonaldluck]

Do you know if the throttle position sensor is anywhere near there, I received with a peake reader a bad throttle position sensor. just dont know where it is ,it did not throw a SES light but peake reader showed a throttle position sensor number. 19-76

[jmsanders78]

I didn't price a replacement... I figured that I would try cleaning first. When I took it off, I could hear the valve inside changing position, but after a few shots with some brake cleaner the valve seemed to have a lot more motion (and with more ease). I can't be sure that the brake cleaner completely freed the valve though, since shaking the entire ICV doesn't make the valve move as much as quickly twisting the entire ICV in your hand. Difficult to explain, but I discovered this after cleaning it so my before/after comparison is possibly skewed.

[Hot328Ci]

Okay. Thank you. I'll take your word for it and clean it out this monday, then repost up on this thread how it all worked out. If the car doesn't run any better, although I'm broke, I'll jump to step two. Replace the rest of the shit I haven't replaced yet! haha, which isn't much.

[GWEEDOspeedo]

Ah, I did forget to mention it's good to twist the ICV back and forth while cleaning. It'll help clean and lubricate.

[GWEEDOspeedo]

Do you know if the throttle position sensor is anywhere near there, I received with a peake reader a bad throttle position sensor. just dont know where it is ,it did not throw a SES light but peake reader showed a throttle position sensor number. 19-76

I really have no idea. Someone with a bentley manual might know. Try the sticky'd DIY link too.

[FSUmac]

Can you describe what kind of torx tools I will need for this job? Is it a screwdriver or a socket? I need to go to sears and pick something up.

[FSUmac]

Also, since the ICV has electrical parts, is there somewhere we should NOT spray brake cleaner?

[GWEEDOspeedo]

I used a socket attachment since they were really tight.

I'm 99.99% sure the inside is sealed off from any electrical connections. There is only a motor with fins that move back and forth to control the amount of air going to the throttle body so it's a simple device. Brake cleaner is said to leave absolutely no residue just like electrical cleaner since that would otherwise leave a film on the rotor and render the brakes useless.

[FSUmac]

Thanks again.

The indy shop quoted me $350 for the ICV and labor.

I picked up the part myself for $116.

Even if I go ahead and put in the new ICV, you've saved me a ton.

[GWEEDOspeedo]

Glad I could help!

[jmsanders78]

I ended up using one of those folding torx driver sets, like a Swiss Army knife. There's enough room for one of those, but probably not for larger drivers. However, I would say that the sockets are probably best.

[jmsanders78]

Also, since the ICV has electrical parts, is there somewhere we should NOT spray brake cleaner?

I also don't know about what the inside of the ICV is in terms of electrical stuff, but it's not hard to blow brake cleaner through the end of the ICV that needs cleaning without getting the electrical end covered in dirty solvent. All I can really say is that my ICV still works, as does Gweedo's!

[Cobra]

hey gweedospeedo, my car also stalls out in the cold after awhile(while temp gauge is still in blue) and i wanted to make sure the steps are the same for my car(2000 328i), before i messed with it, so i took pics(they're from a phone, large pics but quality isn't that great);

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/7104/engine1vk3.jpg

http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/2974/engine2oc1.jpg

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/5653/engine3am0.jpg

so what do you think? same steps for me?

[GWEEDOspeedo]

Yup. It looks just like mine when I approached the job.

Good luck!

[jmsanders78]

hey gweedospeedo, my car also stalls out in the cold after awhile(while temp gauge is still in blue) and i wanted to make sure the steps are the same for my car(2000 328i), before i messed with it, so i took pics(they're from a phone, large pics but quality isn't that great);

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/7104/engine1vk3.jpg

http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/2974/engine2oc1.jpg

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/5653/engine3am0.jpg

so what do you think? same steps for me?

This probably isn't the right fix for your problem - the cold stalling is usually attributed to a VANOS problem, but it can't hurt either.

[russiamutha]

nice writeup, you must be driving that car in desert.

[GWEEDOspeedo]

Haha thank you for the compliment, and you would think so by looking at my engine bay!

[FSUmac]

I'm doing this DIY in the morning. Thanks again.

[jmsanders78]

My car almost stalled this morning when I was coming to a stop, which I thought I had fixed by cleaning the ICV. I guess the hunt for the problem is still on...

[FSUmac]

Alright, I've got the ICV off and cleaned. It was definitely a little harder to get to than I anticipated.

The valve would not even rotate when you twist it when I first took it off. After cleaning, the valve rotates easily.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b264/tkduke77/IMG_0966.jpg

Diiiiiiiiiiiirty at 70k:

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b264/tkduke77/IMG_0954.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b264/tkduke77/IMG_0956.jpg

What came off of the valve:

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b264/tkduke77/IMG_0958.jpg


Nice and clean!

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b264/tkduke77/IMG_0961.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b264/tkduke77/IMG_0965.jpg

[FSUmac]

Question, did you clean the gunk off the back of the adjuster box while you had it off? It looks pretty nasty, but I don't want to touch it if I can possibly screw something up.

Here's a pic of what I am talking about:

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b264/tkduke77/IMG_0969.jpg

[GWEEDOspeedo]

I didn't, though that would probably have been a swell idea.

[GWEEDOspeedo]

My car almost stalled this morning when I was coming to a stop, which I thought I had fixed by cleaning the ICV. I guess the hunt for the problem is still on...

My car still has a rough idle from time to time but it's so much less frequent than before I cleaned the ICV. I agree there could be something else involved.

[Daler69]

thanks man this is awesome, iv noticed my car is a bit rough when idling, my car has been sittin in the drive for 5 months, still another month to go untill i get my licence back and i want to do all i can to make it run perfect when i get my licence back, cleaning the ICV was one of the top things on my list. this will be very helpfull. Good write up :) Btw, my car has done 115k miles and its probably never been cleaned lol, ill take pics.

[GWEEDOspeedo]

thanks man this is awesome, iv noticed my car is a bit rough when idling, my car has been sittin in the drive for 5 months, still another month to go untill i get my licence back and i want to do all i can to make it run perfect when i get my licence back, cleaning the ICV was one of the top things on my list. this will be very helpfull. Good write up :) Btw, my car has done 115k miles and its probably never been cleaned lol, ill take pics.

Glad I could help ya!

Mine had roughly 103k miles and I'm fairly certain it had never been cleaned.

[Daler69]

I have a few mods in mind soon so i will make sure to take some pics and post my own DIYs. No doubt i will have alot of problems too because its been standing for so long so i will post DIYs on any repairs too lol.

[FSUmac]

I cleaned the gunk off the adjuster box with a clean towel without chemicals.

The toughest part of this whole process was getting some of the barbed hoses to release.

[FSUmac]

A few things you might want to put into your DIY:

Step 10:

Unclip that electrical connection on the right side of the adjuster box so you can get the torx screw. (the torx screws on the box and the ICV are definitely t40)

Step 12:

Note that you need to remove that 10mm bolt holding the ICV onto the mount. It's removed in your picture.

Thanks again.

[Grandsrus]

Combustion Cleaner and a Q-tip work wonders. Clean it all up, just do not use too much force!
:buttrock

[FSUmac]

done!

I took it out for a drive and it idled like a champ. lol.

[DeadMeat]

Great DIY having the same problem just glad i'm not the only one ;) will try this as soon as i can :D Thanks again !!!!

[dirsh]

gonna try this soon
thanks

[GWEEDOspeedo]

Hope it works out well for ya both!

Loving the rear bumper Dirsh :buttrock

[dirsh]

well i cleaned my MAF last night and my idle is waaaaaaaaay better now. I guess I won't be doing this cleaning for now.

[GWEEDOspeedo]

well i cleaned my MAF last night and my idle is waaaaaaaaay better now. I guess I won't be doing this cleaning for now.

Did you blast it clean like whatshisface recommended?

[dirsh]

just shot it about 15 times. damn idle got a little rough again today. gave a few codes but half as much as before. I think I might try cleaning it again

[FSUmac]

Well, my ICV code is back again. :(

Looks like I will be performing this again except this time I will just replace the damn thing.

[GWEEDOspeedo]

My idle still isn't perfect. With my tax refund I'm going to replace the oxygen sensors (recommended every 100k miles), clean that adjustment box, clean the MAF, and see what happens.

[digivation]

you might want to hit the MAF and perhaps the throttle body while you're down there, you know, since everything is pretty much off anyway ;)

I did the MAF last night but didn't feel like pulling out the whole air assembly to get down to the ICV and throttle body. I'll probably do that today or tomorrow.

[salexander867]

Thanks for this DIY. I did my 325i last week and this info helped. On my 325, however, all of the bolts are actually T-40 with the exception of the retention clip. A T-30 will fit the others (with some slop), but the T-40 is the correct size. Using a smaller size can damage the bolt.

Thanks

[snikwad]

damn, mine must be clogged up, with my mileage.
excellent write up BTW

[FSUmac]

Went in and replaced it today. Only took about half the time which was nice since I did it a few months ago.

Like the other guy said, those bolts on the adjuster box and ICV are definitely T-40.

[dsmith]

I've written this before. If you clean your ICV AND it makes a difference, you need to replace it. They really don't clean enough not to stick. Since these are somewhat difficult to replace vs older cars, you might as well just replace it, if your car is having idle problems and is about 6 yrs old and a bunch of miles. It may not be your only problem, but it will be a problem soon, if not already.

[GWEEDOspeedo]

If cleaning works though, it's a step in the right direction. It postponnes further expenditure for a slightly expensive part. It's also good practice for if you decide to go in and replace it as FSUmac did.


Went in and replaced it today. Only took about half the time which was nice since I did it a few months ago.

Like the other guy said, those bolts on the adjuster box and ICV are definitely T-40.

I editted it, thanks for pointing that out again. I had missed it the first go around.

[snikwad]

How much do they typically cost?

I was thinking about replacing it initially, but had dismissed it as unnecesary after seeing how to clean it.

[GWEEDOspeedo]

How much do they typically cost?

I was thinking about replacing it initially, but had dismissed it as unnecesary after seeing how to clean it.

Bout $120.00

[Ethek]

Would a seafoam cleaning have done anything for this?

[GWEEDOspeedo]

Would a seafoam cleaning have done anything for this?

Sorry, I don't know what that product is.

[luphilly330ci]

Thanks for the great post & pictures.. It took me under 2 hours to complete.

If your thinking of replacing.. I found it for $116 at autohausaz.com

[RotaryBzzz]

any updates?

[rhuie1]

Looks like the link to all the pics are dead. OP - do you have a backup of the pics or have them posted at another location? I am just about to replace mine.

Thanks

[GWEEDOspeedo]

Looks like the link to all the pics are dead. OP - do you have a backup of the pics or have them posted at another location? I am just about to replace mine.

Thanks

It appears my domain provider is temporarily down. I'll check why if it's still down by Monday when I'll be back from Ireland. I do have them on my computer at home.

[retep101]

hi guys,
this is a great writeup. i've had alot of idling problems and have just found a big hole in my idle air duct - the one that connects to the idle control valve (the arrow in step 12 points to it).

so my question is: how hard do you think it is to take off this section of air duct? (it looks like the clip under the ICV might be tricky to get at and i only have basic tools so i dont want to strip it down only to find that i need a flexible socket attachment to get it opened!)
thanks

pete

[GWEEDOspeedo]

A lot of hoses are flexible and can be worked around but logically, don't go in there and just push things around. I no longer have my car to use as a reference but I remember that section of hose being part of the main intake tube. It might actually be a chore to get that whole piece off. If there's time available to you, go for it. At minimum you'll come out with knowledge of how your intake system is put together.

[Fmstrat]

Great writeup, helped me out in doing mine, thanks. However, your guide does take quiet a few steps that aren't necissary. For anyone who's used to Japanese cars you can get everything out just by removing the center intake hose. I would add the following information to help future users of the guide:

1-3: Optional, but recommended
4-8: Optional, just for more space
10: First, remove the electrical connection, then this step. If you did not do 4-8, angling up and slightly rotating will allow it to come out.
11: Optional, just for more space
12: There is also a 10mm nut holding a bracket over the ICV bracket that needs to be removed first

And last but not least, carb cleaner works great, and evaporates very fast for quick re-mount. Also, when doing none of the optional steps it took me exactly 45 minutes using this guide for reference for anyone else.

Again, thanks for taking the initiative to write this up.

Ben

[G. P. Burdell]

GWEEDOspeedo, thanks for the tutorial. It's a great supplement to BMW TIS and its so-so photos. I just finished replacing my car's idle control valve this afternoon.

Some notes:

Since I didn't want to encounter any surprises, I purchased not only a new valve, but also the rubber mount for the valve, the grommet (see attached photo) that seals the valve to the intake manifold, extra Torx bolts, hose clamps, the upper and lower intake boots, the F-shaped hose connector for the upper intake boot, and the plastic ring that connects the two boots.
The original rubber boots were becoming quite hard, but they showed no signs of tears or holes. If you have a high-mileage car that's never had its intake boots replaced, you might want to consider replacing them while you're in there.
With new boots on hand, I found it a lot easier to remove the old stuff - I cut the upper boot where the small hoses attach, and I cut the lower boot where it connected to the ICV and throttle body. Destroying the old boots enabled me to get to the original hose clamps at the throttle body and the old valve, which were doubtless installed by sadists before the engine was installed in the car. When reassembling everything, I made sure to position the new clamps so that they would be more accessible next time. A flex driver with a 6mm socket was incredibly useful in getting to the hose clamps.
I was unable to remove the DISA valve without removing the microfilter plenum and partially removing the plastic partition between the brake booster/E-box compartment and the main engine compartment. With the plastic fasteners removed from the plastic partition, I lifted the partition just enough so that the DISA valve wiggled free from the intake manifold.
Be careful with the DISA valve. A small metal pin secures the end of the flap to the frame that surrounds it. This pin backed out and fell into the engine bay as I was removing the valve from the intake manifold. Luckily, I was able to recover it after a frantic search.
BMW TIS recommends replacing the rubber grommet that seals the ICV to the intake manifold. The old grommet comes out easily if you grab it with a pair of pliers. It was covered in what appeared to be engine oil. TIS also recommends making installation of the ICV easier with a bit of anti-seize. I applied a thin coat of anti-seize to the barb on the valve before pushing it into the grommet.
While I had everything apart, I cleaned the air flow sensor with a can of CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner (http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=05110). It appears to have raised my fuel economy by about one MPG compared to this time last year.

[H1RSCHY]

valve is 240$ at auto zone... its not a part that breaks easily though so i would just clean it unless you have money to toss around.

[G. P. Burdell]

valve is 240$ at auto zone... its not a part that breaks easily though so i would just clean it unless you have money to toss around.
You can get a brand new OE valve from Tischer BMW of Silver Spring (http://www.getbmwparts.com/) and other discount vendors for about $160.

[neil1138]

I just cleaned mine, I will let you guys know how it goes!

[weisiong123]

I have a faulty idle valve. Just wanna ask, what are the steps above for ? Why can't I jump to this to access the idle valve ?
http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv11s.jpg

[jmsanders78]

I have a faulty idle valve. Just wanna ask, what are the steps above for ? Why can't I jump to this to access the idle valve ?
http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv11s.jpg

My recollection is that the steps have to be followed to have the room and access to the part. May not make sense now, but it will when you get into it.

[GWEEDOspeedo]

My recollection is that the steps have to be followed to have the room and access to the part. May not make sense now, but it will when you get into it.

Yeah, that's the reason.

[weisiong123]

I am in the process of removing and cleaning my ICV....

I can't remove the damn thing...I already removed the Green cicle tube connecting to the ICV....but I can't remove the ICV from the blue circle ....what do I do ? Tried so hard to pull it out...no luck......help its getting dark! Also, how do I remove the last intake elbow to access the TB opening ? I couldnt so I just sprayed through the last intake elbow to the TB opening and cleaned from there...

http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/2814/icv15s1lp9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/icv15s1lp9.jpg/1/w800.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img329/icv15s1lp9.jpg/1/)

[GWEEDOspeedo]

Not really sure. Mine had no sort of 'barb' or 'clamp' that affixed it securely to the port (blue circle). I just pulled on it and out it came. Maybe try feeling around with a flat-head screw-driver to see if there are any devices holding yours in.

[weisiong123]

The thing is I can't see the blue area..it is behind .......you know what I mean....all I can see is up to the green circle tube connecting 1 side of the ICV...the back which is holding it I cannot see

[neil1138]

Weisiong, I had the same problem. Pull as hard as you can on it. Trust me, it's barbed so you have to wiggle it around for it to come out. Just pull very hard

[weisiong123]

Nvm, I gave up.....I just cleaned 1 side which is the side I could see...1 side of the 'T' shape....

Same with the TB opening...don't know how to get the last intake elbow out....so I just sprayed the cleaner from the last intake elbow and stuff a cloth in to clean.

[G. P. Burdell]

Also, how do I remove the last intake elbow to access the TB opening ?

Same with the TB opening...don't know how to get the last intake elbow out....so I just sprayed the cleaner from the last intake elbow and stuff a cloth in to clean.
The rubber intake tubing is all held together, including the connection at the throttle body, with hose clamps. Feel around the circumference of the clamp for the hex head. The hex heads at the throttle body and the ICV on my car were located at very awkward angles, but I was able to loosen them with the help of a flex driver.

When you put everything back together, you can reposition the clamp so that it will be more accessible the next time you have to take something apart.

[weisiong123]

The rubber intake tubing is all held together, including the connection at the throttle body, with hose clamps. Feel around the circumference of the clamp for the hex head. The hex heads at the throttle body and the ICV on my car were located at very awkward angles, but I was able to loosen them with the help of a flex driver.

When you put everything back together, you can reposition the clamp so that it will be more accessible the next time you have to take something apart.

Yes, I always reposition those clamps..but somehow I can't seem to reach the clamps on the last intake tubing.

[bmw328ciwa]

Thanks GweedoSpeedo for the write up :wiggle

My Engine Service Light just came up last night, and went away today.

Codes: 1 of 1


P1510 - Maint Cntrl Veh. Speed
Idle Speed Control
Auxiliary Inputs

What does this codes mean? P1510 Idle Control Valve / Adjuster Unit is going to be cleaned to see if thats the culprits for the rough idle. Also buying a new rubber intake boot...if it helps. What you guys think?

[Dimitri4501]

Can you tell me what the piece is call in picture under step 12 where you have the red arrow pointing to. My e46 that piece is crack which lets a lot of air in. That i think is the cause of why my idle is acting crasy and shuts down my car sometime.

[easymoney]

does this thread only pertain to coupe 5 speed?

[GWEEDOspeedo]

does this thread only pertain to coupe 5 speed?

I don't know for certain but I doubt it. I'm going out on a limb and saying I think all E46's have their ICV's in the same spot.

[raylightt123]

my god, clean your engine bay

[GWEEDOspeedo]

my god, clean your engine bay

Car was in an accident resulting in a total loss so it's in even worse shape now...

[Greg S]

Can you tell me what the piece is call in picture under step 12 where you have the red arrow pointing to. My e46 that piece is crack which lets a lot of air in. That i think is the cause of why my idle is acting crasy and shuts down my car sometime.
That can definitely cause that and it's a very common problem. I would go ahead and replace both the upper and lower intake boots(the one you're referring to is the lower) if your car is over 4 yrs old. They're $15 or so a piece.

Anyways, I thought I'd say I just got done cleaning the DISA valve and the ICV. Took me 1:10 start to finish.

[abduke232]

Thanks for this great write up! My ICV was stuck when I pulled it out, I sprayed it down with electronic cleaner and then it started moving on the inside when I shook it, I hooked everything back up and my rough idle was gone!!! My only question is if it's safe to drive around without installing those annoying little metal clips on the ICV ?!!?! I couldn't put it back in and then I lost it :(... it was also a pain to put back the lining (the one the OP referred to as an "obtuse piece of plastic") any suggestions on how to get it back on easily?!?! Thanks again!!!!!

[ShadowF]

Thank you man, I did replaced ICV and so far no stalling and no rough idle, I do own Bentley manual and according to them I would have to remove da whole intake manifold, which is not easy task to do..great post.

[M13]

I think I need a new DISA. I unplugged the power to it and all the noise went away. The video can be found here:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=15286987&postcount=1


Two questions:

1) Is there any way to repair this part? Otherwise, it's going to be $200 for a new one.

2) Using this DIY as a guide, can I just remove the DISA without removing other items? Is it just the two torx bolts or will something have to go to free up access?

[atwater3030]

Great job putting this up. I live in L.A. and its not cold but my car stalls a lot espacailly when I'm in stop in go traffic with the AC on. It dips way to low. You think if I clean my Idle Control valve it should fix this problem?

[M13]

Great job putting this up. I live in L.A. and its not cold but my car stalls a lot espacailly when I'm in stop in go traffic with the AC on. It dips way to low. You think if I clean my Idle Control valve it should fix this problem?

Cleaning the ICV has been known to improve idle and restore low end torque. I see you're new here, check out E46fanatics.com and search under the general area for threads that will answer your inquiry in more detail.
BFC is more like e36.com :D

[atwater3030]

Thanks bro! I have a great weekend lined up now. Stop oil leak do to striped threading on the oil pan, replace water expansion tank, clean the ICV. : )

[iaknown]

I think I need a new DISA. I unplugged the power to it and all the noise went away. The video can be found here:

Two questions:

1) Is there any way to repair this part? Otherwise, it's going to be $200 for a new one.

2) Using this DIY as a guide, can I just remove the DISA without removing other items? Is it just the two torx bolts or will something have to go to free up access?

1)You may be able to epoxy the shaft to the paddle to take up the play, but personally I just called Vines BMW and asked for a manifold adjuster unit...$75

2)Yup, 2 torx bolts and you don't have to touch anything else to remove it

Now, can someone help me out? The little F connector off the intake elbow in the original DIY pics of this thread....can anyone tell me where the line to the small nipple (the one that broke) goes to? My vacuum lines are all mixed up and I can't get any info on it. Please help!

[M13]

1)You may be able to epoxy the shaft to the paddle to take up the play, but personally I just called Vines BMW and asked for a manifold adjuster unit...$75


$75 for the unit? Are you talking about Part # 11617544805?

It's around $170

[iaknown]

Yup, just got mine in....they'll quote you around a hundred for it, tell them you need it for $75, that's what I got mine for. Now can someone answer my question?? lol

[M13]

http://www.vinesauto.com/

Is that them? Did they send you a new part? refurbished? used?


Sorry, I don't understand your question. Rephrase?

[iaknown]

Yea, that's them....That's for a used one, I just told them to try and check it for play and they sent me a good one, no more chatter.

On the intake elbow there is a little plastic F shaped connector with a big hose and a small hose, where does the small hose go to?

[SL Blak Soldier]

i just finished cleaning my ICV. that thing was so dirty. i only have 100k miles too. i was cleaning it and big chunks of carbon was falling out. after i cleaned it the valve moved freely. my problem is better, the car doesn't stall but still has some weird idle issues. next thing i'mna do is clean the maf.

also i suggest removing all the pieces. at first i didn't want to because it was too much work, but after loosing two sockets(i only found 1) i found the extra space useful.

great diy.

[danewilson77]

The F fitting that is broken on your car is described below...

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/5875/cellphone364.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/5875/cellphone364.jpg)

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/7200/cellphone363.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/7200/cellphone363.jpg)

The little elbow is the one you need

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/9302/219.png (http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/9302/219.png)

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/7673/cellphone366.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/7673/cellphone366.jpg)

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/48/cellphone367.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/48/cellphone367.jpg)

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/2339/cellphone356.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/2339/cellphone356.jpg)

[SL Blak Soldier]

i didn't even take that connector out. i just left it on the intake tubing and moved the tubing aside. haha

[danewilson77]

that would've been the smart move...hehe

[kbok]

How much was the valve to replace?? Just wondering. And Clean it out with break cleaner?? or electrical cleaner?? Thanks for the post. very awesome.

List price of idle control valve is $211, $150 at RM European
(M54, 2005 325i) #13411744713

[Carl winslow]

Gweedospeedo thanks for the write up was having some stuttering issues when she got warmed up,hopefully this will get it!

I did this..and found it took me about 1.30 hours,thanks.
[QUOTE=

1-3: Optional, but recommended
4-8: Optional, just for more space
10: First, remove the electrical connection, then this step. If you did not do 4-8, angling up and slightly rotating will allow it to come out.
11: Optional, just for more space
12: There is also a 10mm nut holding a bracket over the ICV bracket that needs to be removed first

Ben[/QUOTE]

[Lpminniti]

Thanks Gweedospeedo for the writeup the pictures were very helpful and saved me a lot of time especially the "artwork"
I have the Bentley manual but it was almost useless as it lacks many details despite its "heft"
I just finished replacing the Idle Control valve as was recommended by the dealer. It was not too bad and it took me about 2 hours.
I had the most trouble loosening and removing the clamp holding the idle air duct against the Idle Control Valve (see arrow on picture #12)the screw is facing away from you and it is very difficult :mad to get to, even with a 6mm wrench, it must have been installed with the engine off the car.
I have to admit to cutting a few corners and skipping a few steps (3,4,5,6,7,8 and 11) :evil2 but I was able to put everything together anyway.
Nothing beats the satisfaction of doing it yourself :alrightand sticking it to the dealer that wanted to charge me $500 for the job
Infact this was part 3 of a DYI adventure that started with the Left anterior CV boots,(difficult) thermostat (easyest)and now the Idle Control Valve(somewhere in between).
Thanks Gweedospeedo!

[danewilson77]

i got the info on the F fitting for you.....Oops....old post......well maybe the info below will help someone

The F fitting that is broken on your car is described below...

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/5875/cellphone364.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/5875/cellphone364.jpg)

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/7200/cellphone363.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/7200/cellphone363.jpg)

The little elbow is the one you need

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/9302/219.png (http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/9302/219.png)

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/7673/cellphone366.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/7673/cellphone366.jpg)

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/48/cellphone367.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/48/cellphone367.jpg)

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/2339/cellphone356.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/2339/cellphone356.jpg)

[FDiesel77]

NEED HELP!!!! the write up is fantastic.... but cant see pictures!! im lost any help would be appreciated

[zanardi13]

Just did this...also seemed to help the rough idle on our car (short test drive also with a couple of stops). Definitely alot of carbon/oily residue buildup throughout the intake system. I think these cars must dump oil in through the pcv system somehow. I will try to SeaFoam it and see how that works.

[slvrXI]

Im curious if you are planning on doing this... should you seafoame first? or after?

[22ocean]

Just wanted to thank you for posting this. I have a 2002 330cic that was, at start up, idleing like it was driving over railroad tracks and would even cut off on occassion at stop lights from low rpm's. Now, I've NEVER worked on my own car before and feel borderline retarded when I look under the hood, but the way you layed out this step-by-step post, I figured that I'd give it a try. So, I followed the steps you listed, and also cleaned the T-Shape Idle Regulating Valve since it was already out anyway, and PRESTO! My car runs like it just rolled off the show room floor! I had almost forgotten what my BMW was supposed to run like. So thanks again for this awsome post. And, if anyone is thinking about trying to do this themselves, trust me, just do it!

[danewilson77]

Yeah baby....that's what its all about!!! I'm stoked that the extra time he took helped you out.....

[a007prav]

Glad I could help!

Alright Pal, Cheers for putting this up. Unfortunately my car is at the garage, and he has had it for about 2 weeks and trying to find the fault. He has been tellin me one of the senors are failing and he trying to find which one.

It sounds like the same problem, in occasions the car has difficultly to idel and put the pedel down only cures the problem after about 5-10 seconds. Otherwise the car is fine.

Is this simliar to what you had?

[bishop1977]

i would do this but i don't have rough idle, i cleaned my maf, and i have a superchager in the way

[dwpauly2]

into the idle control valve once the boot is off, leaving the valve in place? I've got to replace the boot - car is idling fine ('02 330ci) - but thought I'd try to clean the valve while I had it exposed, unless someone convinces me otherwise. Thanks.

[danewilson77]

into the idle control valve once the boot is off, leaving the valve in place? I've got to replace the boot - car is idling fine ('02 330ci) - but thought I'd try to clean the valve while I had it exposed, unless someone convinces me otherwise. Thanks.

No....not really because....I assume your cleaning because you had indication it may be sticking....and after you clean it.....you need to rotate in your hand "quickly" like the throttle on a motorcycle to verify freedom of movement of the valve itself.

If you just shoot it in there, then re-assemble, you may not have fixed your problem, hence wasting your valuable/precious time.

OK...so re-reading the above, you didn't have indications....but if your gonna clean for ease of mind, I suggest remove it...IMHO.

[Phillips0417]

Remove it, clean it, reinstall. Easy squeezy lemon peezy.

It's easy to remove and even easier to reinstall.

[anacondatcu]

i'm having some trouble with removing the lower intake boot. i've got the clamp loosened and out of the way but can't get a good grip or pull hard enough to get it to come off. i'm going to borrow a hair dryer tomorrow in hopes of heating the rubber to loosen it more. Also, on my black mounting bracket, to the right of the right red circle in step 12 my throttle cable is connected to it on some mounting device. not sure what to do with it, i don't want to mess it up or break/stretch it. not sure how to upload pictures...first post

[genuity]

List price of idle control valve is $211, $150 at RM European
(M54, 2005 325i) #13411744713

It's cheaper at autohausaz.com

[TSM330X]

Does anybody know if the broken f connector pictured above is available at Pepboys or Autozone?

[4G63 T]

Bring back pix please!

[danewilson77]

That's my F pin and I highly doubt its available at anything non bmw. It was like 3 bux at dealer....or throw into one of your bigger orders at ecstuning.


Does anybody know if the broken f connector pictured above is available at Pepboys or Autozone?


Bring back pix please!


What do you need pics of?

[Troutfish]

Bring back pix please!

Who wants to read a book when you can watch a movie?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STy-J10DtiU

[G. P. Burdell]

GWEEDOspeedo, thanks for the tutorial. It's a great supplement to BMW TIS and its so-so photos. I just finished replacing my car's idle control valve this afternoon...
I thought I would post an update. I had originally replaced the ICV and intake boots two years ago in an effort to quiet a whistling noise that I heard when the engine idled in warm weather. Earlier this year, I also replaced the DISA valve because it was chattering. It turns out that the whistle had nothing to do with the air intake system or the DISA valve.

A couple of months ago, I replaced my car's fan clutch and power steering pump in the same weekend. The whistle has been gone ever since, and I suspect that the fan clutch was the real culprit.

Not everyone will have the same results as I did, but if your car whistles at idle, you haven't been able to track down its source, and you need a new fan clutch anyway, you might be in for a pleasant surprise. :)

[aldrichgo4]

The little plastic F fitting is the exact part I need. I can see from your post what the part number is, but can't seem to find anyone who sells it. Do I need to go to a local dealer and see if they have it?

[maparriott]

The collective knowledge on this forum saved me $100's, so I want to post my experience. I have a 2002 330ci.

My Check Engine Light had been on for a while, but I didn't notice any decrease in performance or fuel economy, so I ignored it. I also had the high pitched whine that others have described under certain engine loads. With the colder weather in the past 2-3 months, I've had a rough/surging idle and stalling. I also experienced an error that simultaneously set off the EML, DSC and yellow brake lights. I read elsewhere that this might be a vehicle speed sensor problem. I removed all four sensors, cleaned them, cleaned the housing--didn't fix the problem.

Went to Autozone and had them pull the OBD-II codes. I had a laundry list including: P0171, P0174, P0313, P1083, P1085 P1501.

I pulled the intake assembly, and found a giant hole in the lower intake boot where it branches off. My gash was about an inch long. While I had things pulled apart, I also removed the DISA and the Idle Control Valve. My DISA unit was still functional, but very dirty. I cleaned it and the ICV with brake cleaner. In addition to the large gash in the lower boot, the smaller vacuum hose on the "F" fitting had dryrotten. It broke during disassembly. I got the lower intake boot from my BMW dealership for $40ish. I picked up the vacuum hose at the parts store.

After letting the DISA and the ICV dry completely, I reassembled everything. Idle was steady (despite the cold weather) and performance was much better. After a few days, my Check Engine Light went off. The high-pitched whine also went away.

That's been two weeks ago and things are still perfect. Also-- the DSC, EML, and brake light error that had been happening just about every time I drove anywhere has not returned.

[thekubiaks]

I learned something during this project which might help. I replaced the ICV on my 330i with a new one. I reassembled evything and about a week later started getting codes again (DSC, EML, etc) I took it to the dealer to see if their computer showed anything else. Their computer also stated that the ICV was throwing codes and that I should replace it. Since the ICV was new, I doubted that it was bad.

So, last week, I pulled the ICV back out of the car, looked at it (it was spotless inside) I put it back into its proper place. I was sure I had it seated as far as it would go. Just for good measure, I took a short 1" diameter rod and placed it againset the rubber mount on the ICV and gave it a moderate whack just to make sure it was seated. I felt the ICV move about another 1/4" and felt a "click" as it seated properly.

I guess the first time I replaced the ICV I didn't seat it far enough and the codes popped up when the motor was cold and the ICV was probably leaking.

It has been running great for the last week with no codes and perfect idle. (Hope I didn't jinx myself) but I think it is fixed.

[danewilson77]

What were the codes?

[thekubiaks]

What were the codes?

All I was seeing was DSC and EML lights and the engine going into limp mode. I didn't tell the dealer what the car was doing just to tell me what he is seeing on his computer. The first thing he told me was "The ICV is throwing codes"

That is all I wanted from the dealer.

[99 magna]

Hello,
I can not get the high res pictures to open up to view," Can't find server" window message kept poppin up, help. Thanks.

[AyDee]

Gweedospedo, nice write up. I amjust about to do this job on my 1999 328i - do you still have the pictures available.

Thanks

Al

[iwantbmwm3]

bump...need pics too...anybody?

[Blake029]

the pictures arnt working for me

[djmotor]

no pictures :(

[adionik]

I'll take pictures this weekend when I complete mine

[bimbum]

Who wants to read a book when you can watch a movie?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STy-J10DtiU

A huge thank you. Am going to be doing this next on the wife's car. Originally towed to shop that changed some vacuuum hoses for $300 but didn't solve the problem as it stalled out on the way home. Wish I saw this thread first! Funny thing too when I went to pick up the car all of a sudden the a/c didn't work. They changed a "final" pack in the dash and another $255 later I was on my way. Feels like I paid the stupid tax all right, oh well. Onward ho.

Found this as well for pic hunters:
http://www.bmw-planet.com/2009/01/10/diy-idle-control-valve-unit-icv-cleaning-e46/

update with good news: valve was clean and seemed ok rattling it back and forth. of course this still doesn't rule out the electrical part of it though.
the bad news: car still runs like cr@p at and off idle, poor throttle response, stalling. now what.

update: read the one code p-yada yada lean condition bank 1, cleared it with the peak tool. sprayed down the MAF with CRC cleaner, cleaned and reoiled the K&N (not related), rechecked all the fittings (busted one of the clamps bought close replacement at Oh Oh Oh O'Reillys open till 10pm!), verified DISA was functional & resealed it with bead of permatex.

Result? Car running like a top again! Wife happy, me happy. Will use it all day tomorrow as final test before the work week but I believe the dip and stall problem is finito. GL out there.

[Clut5]

hey guys, i was wondering if you guys would do me the favor of helping me out with a problem. When i start my car and let her idle for warm up the rpms drop to the point she turns off. i cleaned the MAF, cleaned the icv, checked the intake boots for cracks or rips (non existent) and the problem still persists. she shakes everytime the rpms drop (think of a cold puppy..if you have pets, or a grossed out girl if you dont) recently i had a couple of misfires on the intake side solved and the o2 sensors replaced (..supposedly, the guy i got her from did it moaning and groaning because he did it for free due to the fact he sold her to me without being able to pass smog) i do know for a fact he didnt change the spark plugs and im thinking that might have something to do with it. shes always done it it wasn't a problem before but now that i've gotten attached its kind of annoying. i want to fix this problem and have her running tip top before i go putting coilovers and all that stuff into her.. oh and before i forget while the secondary air pump is working at start up the rpms dont drop at all it only happens after it shuts off, and theres no codes, no check engine light, nothing. thanks in advanced for the help..

[jasha]

My car idles fine but as soon as I accelerate it's like it running on 3 cylinders