PDA

View Full Version : Time for a new clutch, and other things.



anthrpicdecadnc
12-17-2007, 04:26 AM
Hi, I'm Dan, and i am new to this forum. I recently purchased a 95 BMW M3 with 91k miles on it. Somewhere along the way, the clutch started to slip, and now it's time for a new clutch. My friend works at Advance Auto Parts and said he can get me a 'Perfection' brand clutch or a 'Zoom' brand clutch. are any of these good, or should i just stick with a Sachs kit, or heck, is there anything i can upgrade to?

Also, my power steering lines ruptured and all the fluid drained out. I LOVE the way the steering feels now (i do not like power steering, ever). I was wondering if any of you have disabled your PS, and what belt size to run to power the AC compressor, if that is at all possible, and perhaps a write up?

CMG
12-17-2007, 10:33 AM
Are you serious? Perfection & Zoom brand clutches? No PS?

anthrpicdecadnc
12-17-2007, 11:03 AM
well i dont know anything about those brands, hence why i asked. and yes, no PS. i love the way the car feels w/o it.

Ron97M3
12-17-2007, 11:33 AM
I thnk you should go with a OEM sachs clutch disc and pressure plate and stay out of trouble there. Also replace the pressure plate bolts, pilot bearing, the through-out bearing, the clutch fork, the pivot pin-post, and clip. Also consider replacing the shifter bushings and any other seriously worn rubber while easy to reach.

If your clutch has been slipping there is a real possibility the non-turnable dual mass flywheel may be damged to the point it needs to also be replaced unfortunately, this will be a significant extra cost and of course the use once bolts for that must also by replace then.

I plan to do my 97 m3 clutch someday myself when it needs it and I have been collecting the facts about that serious job.

Make sure you tape the slave cylinder punger in place so it can't come out and cause a air leak in the hydralic system of course don't press on the clutch pedal once the slave is disconnected.

anthrpicdecadnc
12-17-2007, 11:52 AM
The kits come with the plate, disc, throw out and alignment tool. Thats what i know of. Does it come with any of the other aformentioned items?

Ron97M3
12-17-2007, 12:07 PM
The kits come with the plate, disc, throw out and alignment tool. Thats what i know of. Does it come with any of the other aformentioned items?

No! Parts 3, 6, and 7 are the other parts I mention at the link/diagram below.
6 and 7 are real cheap and 3 is the clutch fork which has a BMW fix order on it
to be replaced with a revision #2 stamped part (don't know why).

See this link for the diagram ..
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BF93&mospid=47486&btnr=21_0053&hg=21&fg=05

Try www.rmeuropean.com for the parts at likely the lowest prices. Art will
help you find the right ones if in doubt if you email or call.

Ron97M3
12-17-2007, 12:18 PM
The job requires about 3 feet of extension and torx socket set to reach the torx bolts on the upper bell housing. The extension is run along the top side of the transmission. I plan on duct taping several 1 foot extensions together and taping the socket on to make things hold together as I struggle with those bolts.
A little bend in the extension will help I know.

You can or do tilt the transmission and motor down a litte to get some room for this but there is a risk of damaging the brake reservior or something else in the rear engine area as you tilt. So becareful and slow!

I trust you have a bentleys manual and/or the http://www.101projects.com/BMW/index.htm. Both are excellent to have for this project. Good Christmas gifts too!

anthrpicdecadnc
12-18-2007, 11:20 AM
So i've found a sachs that comes with a 'formula 1 racing (brand)' chromoly lightweight fly for under 500 (prolly over with shipping and other expenses) from a retailer called 'gripforce' on Ebay. Anybody have any experiences with this company?

also, i would like to thank everyone on their input thus far

Jrdeamicis
12-18-2007, 11:22 AM
how much does the flywheel weigh, and I wouldnt do it. fleabay.

anthrpicdecadnc
12-18-2007, 02:38 PM
it weighs 16 lbs.

Mekihead
12-18-2007, 03:10 PM
The job requires about 3 feet of extension and torx socket set to reach the torx bolts on the upper bell housing. The extension is run along the top side of the transmission. I plan on duct taping several 1 foot extensions together and taping the socket on to make things hold together as I struggle with those bolts.
A little bend in the extension will help I know.

You can or do tilt the transmission and motor down a litte to get some room for this but there is a risk of damaging the brake reservior or something else in the rear engine area as you tilt. So becareful and slow!

I trust you have a bentleys manual and/or the http://www.101projects.com/BMW/index.htm. Both are excellent to have for this project. Good Christmas gifts too!


I just did all this a couple months back by myself. The only mechanical experience I have is working on this car. You can tilt the tranny and motor back. It won't affect the brake/clutch reservoir. However, the top bolts that attach the tranny to the block are A FAT UGLY BITCH if you don't know where they are. On top of that, if you don't apply enough pressure at the correct angle, you'll round them. Then you have to pull the intake manifold off (which sucks huge donkey balls) and dremel the heads of those bolts off. PLEASE, please, take your time on those. You'll add hours of work if you round even one of the top bolts. Get a swivel joint and about 3 feet of extension, and a huge breaker bar plus some pipe and make sure the pressure is applied at the correct angle. Keep that thing as straight as possible. Get one of those bendable snake lights and a buddy to point it at them from under the hood. That's the only way you'll find them at all or be able to reach them. Good luck.

L3000C
12-18-2007, 03:48 PM
make sure the clutch u get on ebay is a sprung hub one. If it is not, and u are using a LTW flywheel it is gonna be REALLY loud.

anthrpicdecadnc
12-18-2007, 04:59 PM
heh, nothing wrong with a little noise.. i also want to do a straight cut box, but not now...

anthrpicdecadnc
12-19-2007, 12:21 AM
well, i ordered new bushings, pressure plate bolts, spring clip, pivot pin, pilot bearing, and i sent a question to that ebayer about his clutch/flywheel deal. to clear things up for me, a kit for a 3.2 will NOT fit on a 3.0?

i also got a bentley (cuz mitchell on demand blows) and i also picked up a copy of that 101 projects book. does it look like anything is missing? btw, the kit comes with new flywheel bolts (8).

Ron97M3
12-19-2007, 12:32 AM
well, i ordered new bushings, pressure plate bolts, spring clip, pivot pin, pilot bearing, and i sent a question to that ebayer about his clutch/flywheel deal. to clear things up for me, a kit for a 3.2 will NOT fit on a 3.0?
i also got a bentley (cuz mitchell on demand blows) and i also picked up a copy of that 101 projects book. does it look like anything is missing? btw, the kit comes with new flywheel bolts (8).

Sounds like you are right on target. I believe a 3.2 clutch is different but I am not sure. www.realoem.com part numbers from 1995 and 1997 selection
should tell you if different.

Another poster here with a 95 m3 says that there is no concern about titling the engine hitting the brake/clutch reservoir but he has a 95 and not a 97 M3 with ASC. So I believe it is a concern on our 97 cars!

saint166
12-19-2007, 12:41 AM
i bought my firdenza flywheel and sachs clutch from gripforce . i have had it in for 2 yrs and its worked flawlessly

anthrpicdecadnc
12-19-2007, 02:50 AM
hmmm.. apparently the S52's came with a different flywheel... i wonder if they are interchangeable? maybe some of the seasoned veterans of this site could shed some light on this?

Tater Salad
12-19-2007, 03:58 AM
I can not recommend UUC Motorwerks Stage II LTW flywheel w/ M5 sachs clutch enough. It has stock driveability and is an absolute blast to drive. Be careful first time in the corners though, it'll rev a lot faster than you are used to. :evil2

anthrpicdecadnc
12-19-2007, 04:15 PM
i bought my firdenza flywheel and sachs clutch from gripforce . i have had it in for 2 yrs and its worked flawlessly

yeah, but thats with a fidanza. It appears the flywheel that comes with this kit is 'f1 racing.' unless somehow they are one and the same.

Eric98Sedan
12-19-2007, 04:53 PM
I can not recommend UUC Motorwerks Stage II LTW flywheel w/ M5 sachs clutch enough. It has stock driveability and is an absolute blast to drive. Be careful first time in the corners though, it'll rev a lot faster than you are used to. :evil2

So you're saying that the car is actually more powerful due to the flywheel?

giterdone
12-19-2007, 04:56 PM
So you're saying that the car is actually more powerful due to the flywheel?

no, just the cars are more rev happy with the lighter flywheel. LTW flywheels are at usually at least half as light (sometimes lighter, depends on the set up you get). So in a low gear, it make rev more than you expect, and you break your rear end loose.

Just to let ya know, the stock dual mass flywheel weighs 26lbs I believe, and the lightweight flywheels range anywhere from 8-16lbs. (generally 12 pounds is the heaviest you'll find)

Tater Salad
12-19-2007, 05:54 PM
So you're saying that the car is actually more powerful due to the flywheel?

It won't change anything power wise, but the engine will rev faster. The UUC one is 8.5lbs vs the stock 26lbs. It is less rotational mass that the engine must turn. It's like when you have the clutch in and gas, the engine revs fast because the transmission is not engaged = less drag.

anthrpicdecadnc
12-19-2007, 10:26 PM
i'd imagine that'd be a concern when downshifting, at lest until you get used to it.

Tater Salad
12-19-2007, 11:08 PM
i'd imagine that'd be a concern when downshifting, at lest until you get used to it.

You get used to it pretty quick... Best grand I ever spent on my old M3. It died about 3 months later though :(

giterdone
12-20-2007, 12:20 AM
i'd imagine that'd be a concern when downshifting, at lest until you get used to it.

not really. It isn't like you just changed your whole car, just the rpms will raise a bit easier. Rev matching can be easier (or harder...depending on how slow you are).

williampugh
12-20-2007, 06:33 PM
Also consider replacing the clutch slave cylinder, rear main seal and transmission input shaft seal while you have everything disassembled.

I did this job a couple of months ago on a 95 M3 and posted some pointers about what I ran into during the job, just search for my old posts.

The BIG thing to keep in mind. You are working on an 11 year car and are going to find lots of rusted fasteners. If you have the time in your schedule, the best way to handle a rusted fastener is to spray it with penetrant and let it soak overnight.

Good luck to you,