High Oil Temps, RMS stage II vortech car

[Bisan]

Well I tried searching and I got some answers, but still wanted some insight.

As the title says, i have RMS stage II car.

I am seeing temps as high as 250-260.

Either for a few hard pulls, or for long drives.

I am using 10w-30 Mobil 1.

What oil you guys running, only pushing 11.5 psi.

And actually another question, my car feels crazy slow first and second gear, its almost like its muffled or detuned for those gears.

I get more wheel spin in third then first. Can a car be tuned differently in different gears????

[rushtillyoudie]

did you get a different Rms kit? whats ur new set up?

[Bisan]

RMS stage II, with ford green tops and 993 hfm.

Still can't get the car tuned properly though.

[///M3 CRAZY]

mobil 1 is not a true synthetic anymore and you will want to run a thicker oil then that! especially in florida. you shouldn't run anything less then 10/40 of a real synthetic oil ex. amsoil, royal purple or castrol.

[marc1119]

RMS stage II, with ford green tops and 993 hfm.

Still can't get the car tuned properly though.

Whose tune are you running....?

[Bisan]

Whose tune are you running....?


I was running AAs but we had all types of issues, just didn't and couldn't see eye to eye.

Marco thats great power anything special in seeing that much power out of your car? Is it again since its obdII????

[Bisan]

mobil 1 is not a true synthetic anymore and you will want to run a thicker oil then that! especially in florida. you shouldn't run anything less then 10/40 of a real synthetic oil ex. amsoil, royal purple or castrol.


Is that just for precautionary measures or is that because of my high oil temp issues????

[///M3 CRAZY]

thicker oil will dissipate heat better which is why the warmer it is out the higher grade of oil is recommended. it will even say that in your manual. and that theory is for any engine FI or not.

[marc1119]

I was running AAs but we had all types of issues, just didn't and couldn't see eye to eye.

Marco thats great power anything special in seeing that much power out of your car? Is it again since its obdII????


my power in my sig was at 10 lb boost..I make 12+ now...

You probaly went about handling your setup incorrectly..You should have done it through me...with the tune...Karl and I work famously together, I know these setups like no other.....whatever

Oh well...

[Mod Addict]

Well I tried searching and I got some answers, but still wanted some insight.

As the title says, i have RMS stage II car.

I am seeing temps as high as 250-260.

Either for a few hard pulls, or for long drives.

I am using 10w-30 Mobil 1.

What oil you guys running, only pushing 11.5 psi.

And actually another question, my car feels crazy slow first and second gear, its almost like its muffled or detuned for those gears.

I get more wheel spin in third then first. Can a car be tuned differently in different gears????


I use Amsoil Euro 5w40 and I love it.

And I think my AA tune runs outstanding, no issues and boatloads of power compaired to the last tune I had :)

[Bisan]

I use Amsoil Euro 5w40 and I love it.

And I think my AA tune runs outstanding, no issues and boatloads of power compaired to the last tune I had :)

How much power you putting down with that stge III since my car would be considered comparable mods wise.

[328iJunkie]

If you do choose to run M1, run their 15w50.

[Bisan]

I use Amsoil Euro 5w40 and I love it.

And I think my AA tune runs outstanding, no issues and boatloads of power compaired to the last tune I had :)

thanks i just ordered some, we'll see how it goes,

[Jim M3]

High oil temps would have me concerned about what is going on in your car.

My car bogged terribly with the AA tune in 1st and 2nd gear, not sure why but I think all of these cars are different. On Marco's car with the same tune it ran fantastic.

I went to Nick G's tune and he worked very closely to dial in my car. I was very happy with the outcome my driveability improved dramatically.

[m3jasper]

Being that you are in Florida, is it possible to go to Nick? I'm sure that if you bring the car to him, he will find out what's wrong with it and then tune it.

I would seriously want someone that knows the cars well to take a look at it...

[Bisan]

Being that you are in Florida, is it possible to go to Nick? I'm sure that if you bring the car to him, he will find out what's wrong with it and then tune it.

I would seriously want someone that knows the cars well to take a look at it...


I've already spoken to him, he is 90 percent chance the direction I was going.

The whp numbers my car is putting down now, is lower than they were when I was at 8.6 psi on the same dyno up here in jax. And the weather is less humid and cooler out.

Makes no sense! I've got some a bunch of random parts to sell, once they do, I am going to tackle this tune issues.

[marc1119]

I've already spoken to him, he is 90 percent chance the direction I was going.

The whp numbers my car is putting down now, is lower than they were when I was at 8.6 psi on the same dyno up here in jax. And the weather is less humid and cooler out.

Makes no sense! I've got some a bunch of random parts to sell, once they do, I am going to tackle this tune issues.

If you live in Florida, and already have an AA tune in your car, why not go to AA and see if it can be straightened out?

Did you buy a tune from AA, or are you using a "used tune" from someone elses car that may or may not be set up like your car?


Why start all over, paying someone else from scratch for a "custom tune" for big dollars, If you are close enough to go to the tuner who you already bought a tune from...?

Unless, you didn't buy a tune from AA? did you?

[m3jasper]

I've already spoken to him, he is 90 percent chance the direction I was going.

The whp numbers my car is putting down now, is lower than they were when I was at 8.6 psi on the same dyno up here in jax. And the weather is less humid and cooler out.

Makes no sense! I've got some a bunch of random parts to sell, once they do, I am going to tackle this tune issues.
IMO, it would be the best thing to do. You are lucky that you live in Florida, take advantage of it. You will like Nick, he is a straight out / honest guy that will tell you exactly what's wrong with the car. I had great success with his tunes (as we discussed), if he has your car and is able to tune it in person...I would expect nothing but stellar results. You won't have to worry about getting various revisions and paying shipping.

I just sucked it up and bought a new tune since I didn't want to deal with the hassle of trying various chips/revisions and having to pay for dyno time over and over.

Best of luck with whatever route you choose, hopefully everything gets resolved...:thumbup:

If you live in Florida, and already have an AA tune in your car, why not go to AA and see if it can be straightened out?

Did you buy a tune from AA, or are you using a "used tune" from someone elses car that may or may not be set up like your car?


Why start all over, paying someone else from scratch for a "custom tune" for big dollars, If you are close enough to go to the tuner who you already bought a tune from...?

Unless, you didn't buy a tune from AA? did you?
If he did buy it directly from AA would he be charged more to custom tune it on their dyno? Or is that included in the original purchase price?

[marc1119]

IMO, it would be the best thing to do. You are lucky that you live in Florida, take advantage of it. You will like Nick, he is a straight out / honest guy that will tell you exactly what's wrong with the car. I had great success with his tunes (as we discussed), if he has your car and is able to tune it in person...I would expect nothing but stellar results. You won't have to worry about getting various revisions and paying shipping.

I just sucked it up and bought a new tune since I didn't want to deal with the hassle of trying various chips/revisions and having to pay for dyno time over and over.

Best of luck with whatever route you choose, hopefully everything gets resolved...:thumbup:

If he did buy it directly from AA would he be charged more to custom tune it on their dyno? Or is that included in the original purchase price?

Of course, a "custom tune" would NOT be included in the original purchase price...But normally a financial consideration is given for the cost of the base tune...Which I am sure would be CHEAPER than starting from scratch from another tuner.....


Not even taking into consideration, the other tuner would require "specific injectors" and a "specific HFM "perhaps, specific fuel pump, plus the cost of scouring the whole system in advance before doing the tune..= BIG BUCKS....

[m3jasper]

Of course, a "custom tune" would NOT be included in the original purchase price...But normally a financial consideration is given for the cost of the base tune...Which I am sure would be CHEAPER than starting from scratch from another tuner.....


Not even taking into consideration, the other tuner would require "specific injectors" and a "specific HFM "perhaps, specific fuel pump, plus the cost of scouring the whole system in advance before doing the tune..= BIG BUCKS....
Since there is something wrong with the car, whomever he goes to should look the car over to insure that everything is properly installed. At least that would be the smart thing to do, IMO. It could be that his issues are being caused by something mechanical. I was always told to check the hardware first as 95% of the time, it's a hardware issue and not a tune issue.

I believe I recall Bisan mentioning that he had his car converted to OBD1 in the PM's that he sent me. Either way, the HFM should work, it did for me when I switched to the Technique Tuning OBD2 tune. I just had to get a new set of injectors, which after selling my green tops cost me <$50. Not bad at all, IMO.

[marc1119]

Since there is something wrong with the car, whomever he goes to should look the car over to insure that everything is properly installed. At least that would be the smart thing to do, IMO. It could be that his issues are being caused by something mechanical. I was always told to check the hardware first as 95% of the time, it's a hardware issue and not a tune issue.

I believe I recall Bisan mentioning that he had his car converted to OBD1 in the PM's that he sent me. Either way, the HFM should work, it did for me when I switched to the Technique Tuning OBD2 tune. I just had to get a new set of injectors, which after selling my green tops cost me <$50. Not bad at all, IMO.


Ok... then IF we know that 95% of the time it is a hardware issue ( and I agree) why are you suggesting that the best thing he can do, is bring it to another for a "custom' tune?
New tune...matching hardware..etc...

Sounds a little strange to me...that is all..

[m3jasper]

Ok... then IF we know that 95% of the time it is a hardware issue ( and I agree) why are you suggesting that the best thing he can do, is bring it to another for a "custom' tune?
New tune...matching hardware..etc...

Sounds a little strange to me...that is all..

IMO, it would be the best thing to do. You are lucky that you live in Florida, take advantage of it. You will like Nick, he is a straight out / honest guy that will tell you exactly what's wrong with the car. I had great success with his tunes (as we discussed), if he has your car and is able to tune it in person...I would expect nothing but stellar results. You won't have to worry about getting various revisions and paying shipping.

I just sucked it up and bought a new tune since I didn't want to deal with the hassle of trying various chips/revisions and having to pay for dyno time over and over.

Best of luck with whatever route you choose, hopefully everything gets resolved...:thumbup:

If he did buy it directly from AA would he be charged more to custom tune it on their dyno? Or is that included in the original purchase price?
I think you missed where I typed that he should get the car checked out to see exactly what is wrong with his car. If his car has a hardware or tuning issue, Nick is capable of fixing both.

[Mod Addict]

How much power you putting down with that stge III since my car would be considered comparable mods wise.
I dont want to get into a dyno dispute but I will give out the basics.
I made 400rwhp 312rwtq and I had a slipping cluch on a RMS tune that was modified by Karl and was not able to produce enough fuel with the hardware I had, so I upgraded to his new package.:) My old Afr was 14.5 above 5000rpm.
The new tune and hardware is very aggresive and with my setup I cannot run any more timing or boost without going to a race fuel. :D
Karl is a saint btw..

[marc1119]

I think you missed where I typed that he should get the car checked out to see exactly what is wrong with his car. If his car has a hardware or tuning issue, Nick is capable of fixing both.

whatever,,I really do not care anymore...
Your answer will have to stand, or else there will be no end to this....

[marc1119]

I dont want to get into a dyno dispute but I will give out the basics.
I made 400rwhp 312rwtq and I had a slipping cluch on a RMS tune that was modified by Karl and was not able to produce enough fuel with the hardware I had, so I upgraded to his new package.:) My old Afr was 14.5 above 5000rpm.
The new tune and hardware is very aggresive and with my setup I cannot run any more timing or boost without going to a race fuel. :D
Karl is a saint btw..


Amen.....:)

[BMWManiac]

I think he should go to AA since it has their tune, and their requirements to run their tune...they would then be more adept to identifying the hardware issue, no? Then, if no hardware issue is found, then can adjust their tune, which still would cost less and should be easily handled there, no?

I know NickG can handle it, but I have to agree with Marco that before ripping everything out and starting fresh/new tune, let's address the problem.

[97m3john]

I'll awnser for (Bisan).His car was at AA for a long time and the tune isn't right.
Andrew pm me.

[Bisan]

pm sent.

thanks for all the info on my oil temps. and the heads up about the M1 not being synthetic.

Also fellas this was not the point of my thread to start a hells storm with who is better NickG or AA.

thats not my intentions,

There is no going back on the issues, and I am not trying too, or am I posting what exactly happened.

I just want my car to run right. Seriously I've almost come close to hating the vehicle in its entirity *spell check* and riping off the setup that I am into for close to like 7k dollars now, and just selling the car. Oh well truely honestly just want it all setup so I can enjoy it.

[fivaxis]

I'm using the Amsoil Euro 5w40 oil too, so far so good.

[BMWManiac]

I'm not turning this into AA vs Nick G either.....looking at it from this standpoint:

You have software and hardware from company A. Another company, B, also sells software for you car and has a great reputation, much like company A. Your car is having issues. You can visit company A or B. Company A, who seems to know your car inside and out now, SHOULD be able to give you the BEST care with BOTH hardware and software. If you go to company B, they'll have to take extra time to figure out what is going on with your setup, and then charge you for their hardware and software.

Now, if you have constantly worked with Company A and you're still not satisfied, by all means....go to another Company, whether its company B, C, etc....we all want you to be happy with your car trust me....

[marc1119]

I'm not turning this into AA vs Nick G either.....looking at it from this standpoint:

You have software and hardware from company A. Another company, B, also sells software for you car and has a great reputation, much like company A. Your car is having issues. You can visit company A or B. Company A, who seems to know your car inside and out now, SHOULD be able to give you the BEST care with BOTH hardware and software. If you go to company B, they'll have to take extra time to figure out what is going on with your setup, and then charge you for their hardware and software.

Now, if you have constantly worked with Company A and you're still not satisfied, by all means....go to another Company, whether its company B, C, etc....we all want you to be happy with your car trust me....


You would think it should be.. that the 'best interest' is always taking into consideration, unfortunately..it is not always that way...:(

[m3jasper]

I'm not turning this into AA vs Nick G either.....looking at it from this standpoint:

You have software and hardware from company A. Another company, B, also sells software for you car and has a great reputation, much like company A. Your car is having issues. You can visit company A or B. Company A, who seems to know your car inside and out now, SHOULD be able to give you the BEST care with BOTH hardware and software. If you go to company B, they'll have to take extra time to figure out what is going on with your setup, and then charge you for their hardware and software.

Now, if you have constantly worked with Company A and you're still not satisfied, by all means....go to another Company, whether its company B, C, etc....we all want you to be happy with your car trust me....
+1

I just want you to get the car fixed so that you can enjoy it. I don't get anything out of you bringing your car to company a, b, or c.

Best of luck with the situation. :)

[marc1119]

+1

I just want you to get the car fixed so that you can enjoy it. I don't get anything out of you bringing your car to company a, b, or c.

Best of luck with the situation. :)

not even satisfaction?;)

[Bisan]

thank you very much guys. I finally put my headlight back in. I was running with a driverside headlight. The car is slowly coming all back together now.

But any ideas why it would feel sooooooo damn sluggish in first and second gear. I mean my stage I. Completely tore up my first two gears. Now it feels like I am pulling a 30 foot boat behind me in those gears. All the bark but none of the bite.

[marc1119]

thank you very much guys. I finally put my headlight back in. I was running with a driverside headlight. The car is slowly coming all back together now.

But any ideas why it would feel sooooooo damn sluggish in first and second gear. I mean my stage I. Completely tore up my first two gears. Now it feels like I am pulling a 30 foot boat behind me in those gears. All the bark but none of the bite.


I would like to help you..But I have no history, chronologically.. of what you have on your car, what tune..who tuned it, where you bought it from, what it was intended for?
hardware...who installed it, what it looks like....

Shooting in the dark here....

[m3jasper]

not even satisfaction?;)
Not even monetary compensation. ;)

[marc1119]

Not even monetary compensation. ;)

Who said monetary?
Maybe just "brownie points"?:)

[m3jasper]

Who said monetary?
Maybe just "brownie points"?:)
That's a good question...I'm gonna have to call and ask! :stickoutt

[marc1119]

That's a good question...I'm gonna have to call and ask! :stickoutt


see? your welcome!!!!!!!!;) :buttrock

[BMWManiac]

I'm not 100% certain with regards to superchargers, but it sounds to me that your engine is not being cooled sufficiently (high oil temp and sluggishness both sounds like heat fatigue to me)

So....do you have an RMS aftercooler....do you have to bleed that thing? Are you getting enough fuel (any injectors bad, fuel filter clogged, fuel pressure?) Again, trying to check hardware first. Fan clutch working, thermostat, waterpump working?

[Mod Addict]

thank you very much guys. I finally put my headlight back in. I was running with a driverside headlight. The car is slowly coming all back together now.

But any ideas why it would feel sooooooo damn sluggish in first and second gear. I mean my stage I. Completely tore up my first two gears. Now it feels like I am pulling a 30 foot boat behind me in those gears. All the bark but none of the bite.


What do your fuel trims look like?

How is your bypass valve recirculation hose installed on your thermoplastic intake tube?

[carcrazed4life]

...But any ideas why it would feel sooooooo damn sluggish in first and second gear. I mean my stage I. Completely tore up my first two gears. Now it feels like I am pulling a 30 foot boat behind me in those gears. All the bark but none of the bite.

I would say when is the last time you were on the dyno and had an AFR log with it?

Sounds like you'll most likely narrow down what you are looking for in there.

[YellowBed]

where is your oil cooler?

[Bisan]

Alright, everything hardware wise is properly done. For the bill they tried stuffing me with, better hope that all the hardware issues were takin care of. The car stayed at a tuner shop for over a month.

My AFRs are fine. A lil rich 3/4 up the tach. Full throttle at like 5k, I am seeing like 10.8.

My injectors have less than 500 miles on them, my HFM should be brand new also less than 500 miles. Water temp does not budge. I am talking about new everything, oversized alum. radiator, new hoses, thermostat, pump is less then 4k miles old. Car also has a walpro fuel pump.

Oh yeah I don't have an oil cooler, honestly have no idea where its gonna fit, crazy tight in there as it stands now.

I have a innovative motorsports LM1 I should try and log the data off of it. Also kind of weird, i have a small hesitation at around 2.8k rpms slight but def noticeable. And you get hesitation if the car is in gear, while coming down the tach also between 5k and 2k rpms about two or three hesitations. Don't know whats that about. I officially logged in about 700 miles on the car. It feels fast, but not blistering. My buddy has a powerdyne unit at 6 psi, and our cars feel very close in performance which in my eyes is ridiculous.

[Bisan]

Fuel pressure was checked about 1k miles ago. I was seeing 62psi at full boost of about 12psi.

Which should be right. Considering its 1 fuel psi for everyone one psi of boost.

[marc1119]

Alright, everything hardware wise is properly done. For the bill they tried stuffing me with, better hope that all the hardware issues were takin care of. The car stayed at a tuner shop for over a month.

My AFRs are fine. A lil rich 3/4 up the tach. Full throttle at like 5k, I am seeing like 10.8.

My injectors have less than 500 miles on them, my HFM should be brand new also less than 500 miles. Water temp does not budge. I am talking about new everything, oversized alum. radiator, new hoses, thermostat, pump is less then 4k miles old. Car also has a walpro fuel pump.

Oh yeah I don't have an oil cooler, honestly have no idea where its gonna fit, crazy tight in there as it stands now.

I have a innovative motorsports LM1 I should try and log the data off of it. Also kind of weird, i have a small hesitation at around 2.8k rpms slight but def noticeable. And you get hesitation if the car is in gear, while coming down the tach also between 5k and 2k rpms about two or three hesitations. Don't know whats that about. I officially logged in about 700 miles on the car. It feels fast, but not blistering. My buddy has a powerdyne unit at 6 psi, and our cars feel very close in performance which in my eyes is ridiculous.

Your hesitation from 5K down to 2K RPM is probaly the BPV nipple location on the thermo tube..

Everything else? who would know?
You say..the Hardware "should be right" ..doesn't mean it is...You know?
We haven't seen your setup, dyno graph, AFR chart....etc....
Just be shooting in the dark...

[pbonsalb]

I think 10.8 is too rich. I see high 11s to low 12s at full throttle, full load.

[nugent1021]

Can you uninstall, send that RMS crap back, and get a good complete kit from Marco? Not trying to rub it in, good luck with the diagnosis.

[Mod Addict]

Is your car pulling timing?

[97m3john]

I bet that the tune has too much timming being pulled or may I say not enough timing in it.probably causing high egt's and high cyl temps.

[Mod Addict]

We need some data to figure what is going on and to help you out.
I say get some fuel trim data and take a look at your timing (real time while you take it for a spin). Im sure any real european shop will have the right scan tool for the info you need to get.

[GG///M3]

Bisan do you need a h2o/alc injection kit ;)??????

[Bisan]

Bisan do you need a h2o/alc injection kit ;)??????

LoL, how you doing man? I need a lot of things right now.

Alright I will get you guys that info from my wideband tomorrow.

Anyway to find out the vehicles timing????????

[Bisan]

Can you uninstall, send that RMS crap back, and get a good complete kit from Marco? Not trying to rub it in, good luck with the diagnosis.

Umm... kinda late for that.

[Bisan]

Also I noticed today I only 200 miles to the tankful, 93 octane, and pretty normal daily driving I'd say 50 percent was highway toooo.

Also car smells like gas, not so much under engine compartment, or inside cabin. Kinda like trunk rear end region.

[Shuasha]

LoL, how you doing man? I need a lot of things right now.

Alright I will get you guys that info from my wideband tomorrow.

Anyway to find out the vehicles timing????????
Any OBD2 scanner that can do real time monitoring can tell you.

[Jim M3]

Do you have an AFR guage, maybe your tune is dumping fuel. 200 miles on a tank of gas highway driving sounds very suspicous.

[Mod Addict]

Any OBD2 scanner that can do real time monitoring can tell you.
If the car has been converted to obd1 then you are going to need a bmw specialty tool. A Snap-on mt2500,Solas,Modis or OTC Genesis scan tool will work, but it has to have the euro pkg that would come with the 20 pin diagnostic connector.
A standard obd2 scan tool does not have this 20 pin connector which is your only link to access the info from the computer.
Hope this helps.