Control Arm (LCA) Bolt Frozen

[spuckett]

I'm putting the UUC Sachs performance kit on my 328i and replacing the LCA and LCABs at the same time. Ive gotten tie rods off and the struts removed from the car and I am now unable to free the wheel bearing assembly from the outer ball joint bolt. I assume it is the same design as the tie rod with the smooth wedge shaped base that fits into the metal sleeve(like a cork in a bottle).

I banged on it with a hammer for a while, WD40d the hell out of it, and I got a generic tie rod puller I've been trying to pop it out with but its grippers seems too large and it keeps just workings its way off the assembly when i use it. I went and got a 2 Jaw puller but it wont fit with the way that sleeve is set at a 90 degree angle to the wheel bearing assembly.

Anyway anyone have any suggestions on how I can get this godforsaken bolt loose? I don't really care about damaging the control arm in the process either cause I'm replacing them.

Help is paid back in love

[ih8rainnc]

WD40 is not a penetrating oil, try PB Blaster. I'd also suggest a 5lb sledge instead of a carpenter's hammer. That's what it took on the last two sets of LCA's that I pulled off.

[Pilgrim]

My favorite penetrating oil is Kroil, but PB Blaster is also good. If needed, good old kerosene is also effective.

Soak it and let it sit for a day or two.

Also remember that heating and cooling can break things loose. A propane torch and a bowl of ice can generate some helpful expansion and contraction effects....but when using a torch, take a look at what's on the other side of the object you're heating, wear gloves, use eye protection, and don't melt rubber parts or set anything on fire.

[spuckett]

Much love to ya brothers, I suggested using a blow torch but my dad acted like it was a dumb idea. I told him, science can fix things! I'm going to go pick up a can of Kroil tommarow and start saturating.

Thanks!

[97'scort]

Torch +1. Easiest and fastest way to do things, if you know what you're doing!