It's been a while since I've been here, give me the refresher

[SilverBeam]

I want to give my car a very good detail this Christmas. Engine bay, wheels, everything. I did DACP and Klasse on it two months ago, but my neighbors sprinklers have covered all of my work with hard water spots. Whats more is the DACP didn't remove all of the spider webs, although it did greatly improve the look of the car.

I haven't been around these parts for a long time. What are the new favorite products? What should I use? I am doing to give her a 50/50 viniger bath to remove the water spots. Then I think I woud like to try a new polish on her, even though I just bought more DACP. I'll do Klasse again, and then I want to layer her with a wax. Which kind?

For under the engine bay and the wheels I was going to use simple green. Is this still everyone's product of choice?

Then the interior. The Z4 has this textured material on the doors and dash that are just impossible to clean. WHo has found a solution to this? Also, what do people use for leather now? Lexol still the choice?

Thanks :)

[JohnZ3MC]

The vinegar/water should fix the hard water spots.
I've been seeing wonderful results with Menzerna products like their IP or SIP polishes, depending on the severity of the swirls. Finish with the 106FF and you'll be ready for the final sealant/wax combo.
Pad suggestions would be orange or green for the Intensive Polish or Super Intensive Polish. White pad for the finishing polish 106FF.
For a blue like yours, my preference would be a sealant like SG or Optimum OptiSeal or Ultima PGP followed by a head turning beauty wax like Souveran or Victoria Wax (the red stuff).
For a jaw dropping, head turning shine, I'd wait a few days between carnauba applications and do 3 or 4 layers. Wait a day or two between layers to let the solvents in the wax evaporate and the wax set up.
As a disclaimer, I'd recommend you not drive the Z4 on sunny days after the above regimen. The shine will be too spectacular and cause way to many accidents from other drivers being blinded and distracted.
Welcome back,
-John C.

[chuckd1356]

At the above post: lol.

[blk328is]

I did DACP and Klasse on it two months ago, but my neighbors sprinklers have covered all of my work with hard water spots.

one of my single greatest pet-peeves. now when i detail my car i kick one of the other cars out of the garage for a few days to avoid the sprinklers
btw, what is dacp?



I haven't been around these parts for a long time. What are the new favorite products? What should I use?

i like griots garage products for claying and polishing.



I'll do Klasse again, and then I want to layer her with a wax. Which kind?

i like p21s/s100. i think sovereign would also look incredible on light blue.



For under the engine bay and the wheels I was going to use simple green. Is this still everyone's product of choice?

for wheels i just use a generic degreaser, diluted. you can find it at any autoparts store/walmart/target/wherever. i think the one i have now is called purple power but i think simple green is similar.


Then the interior. The Z4 has this textured material on the doors and dash that are just impossible to clean. WHo has found a solution to this? Also, what do people use for leather now? Lexol still the choice?

id like to know answers to these questions as well!

[SilverBeam]

DACP= Meguiar's Dual Action Cleaner Polish. It's good, but I want to try something else. THanks for the responses so far, I think I will look into Menzerna products. The swirls aren't bad at all, there is just a little left over from the DACP, but the DACP did take rid of most of them.

[nickdeck]

I'll second the recommendation for Menzerna polishes. If the swirls aren't bad, I'd hit it first with Menzerna Final Polish. If that doesn't cut it, kick up to the Intensive Polish.

Sealant-wise, I just used Menzerna's Full Molecular Jacket for the first time about a week ago. Awesome stuff, and much easier to remove than Klasse SG. I applied the FMJ with a blue pad, to insure even distribution, then just wiped it off by hand. Car looks great.

[SilverBeam]

Thanks! I have so much SG that I'd much rather put that stuff to work before buying another sealent. Can I find Menzerna at autogeek?

[cosmom3]

For a jaw dropping, head turning shine, I'd wait a few days between carnauba applications and do 3 or 4 layers. 3-4 applications of wax is excessive to say the least. I dont know who reccomended this to you, but it sounds like a good way to blast through cups of wax rather than improving shine.

Wax is a great way to make your car shine, but the truth is all you need is 1 layer of a paste wax and 1 application of a glaze. The only time you do things more than once are with swirls, light scratches and SG.

[cosmom3]

Thanks! I have so much SG that I'd much rather put that stuff to work before buying another sealent. Can I find Menzerna at autogeek? SG is a great product for durability , however if this is not your primary goal I would stick with just wax. Sealant Glaze's tend to give more of plastic look, what this means is your final product will ultimatly lose debth...with exception to white cars of course.

Good luck with your detail.:)

[cosmom3]

All other products aside, 1 coat of Pinacle Paste Wax

http://m3pix.com/albums/060205/images/IMG_2617.1.jpg

http://www.m3pix.com/albums/051119/images/IMG_0821.1.jpg




Edit: 1000th post woohoo :) Only took me 3 years to do it. ;)

[nickdeck]

Can I find Menzerna at autogeek?Last time I checked, they had the Menzerna polishes, but not the FMJ. I got my FMJ from detailedimage.com.

Also, if you look around here, you'll see some posts by a guy called FMINUS. He does remarkable work and swears by a sealant called Jet Seal 109, from Chemical Guys. Haven't tried it yet, myself. (Like you, I've got too much other product sitting around that I need to use up first. :) )

[cosmom3]

Last time I checked, they had the Menzerna polishes, but not the FMJ. I got my FMJ from detailedimage.com.

Also, if you look around here, you'll see some posts by a guy called FMINUS. He does remarkable work and swears by a sealant called Jet Seal 109, from Chemical Guys. Haven't tried it yet, myself. (Like you, I've got too much other product sitting around that I need to use up first. :) )
I have looked at his posts, he does fantastic work. But every time I compare a car with a SG to a strictly paste wax I am to say the least...disappointed. I never have tried Sealant he uses though.

[SilverBeam]

Before I buy something new, I have some 3M Finesse-It should I just finish that up?

[cosmom3]

Before I buy something new, I have some 3M Finesse-It should I just finish that up?Have you ever tried Megs #80, better product than 3M Finesse-IT imo.

[Steve530]

...Then the interior. The Z4 has this textured material on the doors and dash that are just impossible to clean. WHo has found a solution to this? Also, what do people use for leather now? Lexol still the choice?...

I'm not sure what sort of textured material your Z4 has. If it's plastic, you might try 303 Aerospace Cleaner. I had great success cleaning the tan door panel of my son's 1998 323is with this stuff. I used it full strength, but you might be able to get away with it diluted. I actually use the 303 Aerospace Cleaner diluted with water 1:100.

My choice for leather is Leatherique Rejuvinator Oil and Pristine Clean. Nothing else like it.

I forgot to mention that I'd stay away from Simple Green on the wheels. It's probably OK, but I've read that it will darken aluminum if left on too long. P21S is the best wheel cleaner I've used. My suggestion is to get the wheels really clean, then apply a sealant. Klasse AIO and SG will work. I've been using Wheel Wax lately and it works well.

[SilverBeam]

Have you ever tried Megs #80, better product than 3M Finesse-IT imo.

No, I've never tried it.


Steve, I think it might be time to try 303, I've only heard good things about it. My seats aren't to the point of needing leatherique, maybe next year.

[Steve530]

... My seats aren't to the point of needing leatherique, maybe next year.

IMHO, your seats need Leatherique now.

I'm not suggesting that you use the due and filler, I'm suggesting you use the Rejuvinator Oil and Pristine Clean. Those are maintenance products, not repair products. They keep the leather supple.

BTW, the 303 Aerospace cleaner may only be available in gallons at this point. If you check out their website, you'll find other cleaners that are dilutions of the Cleaner. There's a fabric cleaner, a spot remover, and a convertible top cleaner. One of those would probably work. The 303 Aerospace Protectant is great for dashboards and tires. These are available from Autogeek and the may be available locally at boating stores.

[SilverBeam]

bumping this bad boy up. We got a good amount of rain this winter so I decided to hold off on the detail. We're pretty much out of "winter" now and with spring break next week, I just gave detailed image a good sum of money and ordered some of the products you guys recommended.

Here is the plan thus far
1. wash
2. clay
3. DACP
4. Menzerna intensive polish (to get what DACP didn't)
5. Klass AIO
6. S100 wax

Is that order good? I'm starting with a light polish and going to the heavier one to clean up what the light one didn't. Is that right or should I do it the other way around? ALso, if I want to use the S100 shine enhancing cleanser do I do so before or after the AIO?

For the interior I got the 303 so I'll be giving that a try. I'm also going to see if I can find my leatherique. If I can, I'll go ahead and do that as well.

[98DakarM3]

Then the interior. The Z4 has this textured material on the doors and dash that are just impossible to clean. WHo has found a solution to this?

I am not completely positive what this so called "textured" material is but here is something you could try. If this material is not leather, get a bucket of soapy water. Use a mit or gentle brush and spread the suds on it really good. When i use a mit, i try and get as much suds and the least amount of water possible. Then wipe down the door panel really well with the mit. Then hook up the air nozzle on the end of your air compressor and blast that sucker down! This does a good job of blowing dirt out of small cracks in the texture.

I have often used this method when I clean the fake plastic leather on the dashes and door panels of a really dirty truck I detail for a guy twice a year.

[SilverBeam]

Only problem with that plan is the lack of an air compressor.

The dash on the newer bimmers is textured, it's like there are little raised dots all over it, which makes it down right impossible to clean. I'm going to try your brush and soap idea if I'm not satisfied with the 303.

[GH41]

I know what you mean about the dash and doors. It reminds me of shark skin. If you brush against it your skin will leave a skuff mark (skin dust)! I vacume wit a brush and wipe-blot with a real damp terry cloth towel. If you rub it will leave lint. GH

[MrNorwall]

You do the heavy polish first, it is more likely to leave a hazing, the lighter polish will get rid of the hazing, what machine are you using

[SilverBeam]

Porter cable. Um I can't quite remember which designation right now, I've had it for at least 5 years.

[Ianbiz]

For the dash and doors, I used a cheap sponge and put quite a bit of (your choice of protectant here) on it, and then either dab it on, or wipe it on. I usually let the car sit in the heat for a while, then apply it quite thick, then put the car back in the sun for a while (just to absorb it and see the missing spots).

This is what I use (not the green side though): http://www.absolutvision.com/gallery/gallery/th/2L2000.100.jpg

[ProStreetDriver]

excellent job cosmom3.... wanna do my car too??? :D