MY sterring wheels shakes when i press on the brakes at high speeds

[kpipalldaway2]

ok so here is the problem, when i bought my m3 i new i needed the brakes change, but after checking and reinstalling my brake pads and rotors. i still have the problem, and that problem is when i am at high speeds like 70 or 80, when i apply the brakes the steering wheel would shake pretty strongly. the brakes also dont feel that well compared to my 328i.
what do you guys think it could be, abs???

[Msantos]

check control arm bushing's?

[Msantos]

usually bad control arms will cause the steering wheel to shake

[markesq]

Brake rotors are warped. When is the last time you had your brakes done?

[markesq]

Just read your post completely :)

Did you just put back on the old rotors and pads?

[rGrissM3]

i have the same problem, ill check the bushings

[giterdone]

Just read your post completely :)

Did you just put back on the old rotors and pads?

....that is what it looks like. :confused

[markesq]

but after checking and reinstalling my brake pads and rotors.

So I am ASSUMING you did not put new rotors and pads on. Then get new rotors.

I used to have a Corrado that went through rotors like crazy because I did quite a bit of driving.

When I changed the rotors the problem went away.

[kornkid8600]

Must be warped rotors causing the problem.

[kpipalldaway2]

when i had the car checked out before it bought it they said all the bushings where fine, and as far as the rotors, they are perfect so i dont see that being the problem. any other thoughts?

[chandlerseattle]

+1 on the rotors

[racer m]

know anybody w/ a dia(meter) gauge. this would be is easy to see if the rotar was warped.

[huyner]

control arm bushing would be the first thing to look at if it isnt warped rotors

[kpipalldaway2]

can some give me a picture of the control arm bushing? and what would a bad one look like?

[racer m]

www.pelicanparts.com (http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search.cgi?please_wait=N&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&description=control+arm+bushing&I1.x=0&I1.y=0&FILTER_TECH=ON&FILTER_SUPP=ON&FILTER_ACCE=ON&FILTER_CARE=ON&FILTER_STUF=ON&FILTER_PERF=ON&FILTER_MISC=ON&FILTER_GADG=ON&FILTER_TOOL=ON&FILTER_ABMW=ON&FILTER_BE21=ON&FILTER_BE30=ON&FILTER_BE36=ON&FILTER_BE46=ON&FILTER_BE12=ON&FILTER_BE28=ON&FILTER_BE34=ON&FILTER_BE39=ON&FILTER_BE7S=ON&FILTER_BEZ3=ON&FILTER_BE68=ON&FILTER_BE02=ON&FILTER_BEMI=ON&FILTER_BEX5=ON&FILTER_BMWM=ON)
look it up

[kpipalldaway2]

also when you guys change brake pads in there a little metal bracket thing that goes behind the brake pad????? like an anti squel thing??? no what im talking about anyone?

[kpipalldaway2]

also is there anyway its abs

[The-Great-328ic]

also when you guys change brake pads in there a little metal bracket thing that goes behind the brake pad????? like an anti squel thing??? no what im talking about anyone?

the anti-rattle clip has nothing to do with your wheel vibration....

sorry to hear the good deal is starting to catch up :(


Also, did you get your rotors machined turned, it's recommended to do it after every pad replacement

[kpipalldaway2]

sorry to hear the good deal is starting to catch up :(


lol, it would have still be a good deal if it didnt even have breaks!

i didnt get them turned but they dont even have a rip on them, so they wouldnt need to be turned!

[The-Great-328ic]

lol, it would have still be a good deal if it didnt even have breaks!

i didnt get them turned but they dont even have a rip on them, so they wouldnt need to be turned!

well, let's just hope this is the only problem with it

[FinalBoss]

lol, it would have still be a good deal if it didnt even have breaks!

i didnt get them turned but they dont even have a rip on them, so they wouldnt need to be turned!

Unless you fly around in red and blue with a giant "S" on your chest I doubt you can eyeball if your rotors need turning or not. Get them turned.

[giterdone]

Unless you fly around in red and blue with a giant "S" on your chest I doubt you can eyeball if your rotors need turning or not. Get them turned.

+1

It doesn't take much for the rotors to cause you wheel vibration. The smallest move taht you can't see (or feel with your fingers) can cause you lots of shaking. If your wheel shudder is only under braking, it is most likely your rotors. Now if you have vibrations under other circumstances, it could clear your rotors, but it is most likely them.

[markesq]

Holy cow hard headed person. :banghead:

Trust us, it sounds like the rotors.

[bennyfizzle]

It's damn near impossible to warp our rotors, this whole 'warped rotor' thing has become a thing of the past, especially on modern sports car brakes...

You probably have pad material deposits on the rotors, go re-bed the pads, and if that doesnt work have them turned if there's enough material on the rotor left, or get new rotors, just saying, them being 'warped' is probably not your problem.

[thejlevie]

First understand that a BMW suspension is very highly tuned and thus very sensitive to minor fault that would otherwise be insignificant on some other make. Slight wear in control arm ball joints or bushings, upper strut mounts, tie rods, or shocks can couple with uneven pad deposits on the rotors, bent rims, or out of round tires and produce a lot of vibration under braking. The most common trigger for this is uneven pad deposits on the rotors as a result of a poor choice in pads for the driving conditions/style. If pads with too low a Maximum Operating Temperature (MOT) are fitted aggressive driving can result in the MOT being exceeded. If the car is brought to a stop before the pads and rotors have cooled to well below the MOT of the pads an imprint of the pad will be left on the rotor. That alone can cause minor vibration (usually just felt in the brake pedal), but coupled with minor faults elsewhere in the front suspension can cause steering wheel shake. Low-dust pads are common offenders when used on BMW's, even when the car is only driven on the street.

Re-bedding on the pads may help, but in stubborn cases scrubbing with track pads, sanding of the rotors, or replacement may be required. Since the wear allowance on BMW rotors is only 2mm, turning is seldom an option if there's appreciable wear as after turning the rotors will probably below minimum thickness. And obviously, if there is wear in the suspension or wheel/tire problems unless that is addressed the problem will continue or return.

While very rare, it is possible to have a warped rotor. A dial indicator check will tell if that's the case. But before blaming the rotor you should check to see if the mating surface of the hub has corrosion. Even slight corrosion of that surface (or of the rotor face) will prevent proper seating of the rotor and result in rotor wobble.

[bennyfizzle]

First understand that a BMW suspension is very highly tuned and thus very sensitive to minor fault that would otherwise be insignificant on some other make. Slight wear in control arm ball joints or bushings, upper strut mounts, tie rods, or shocks can couple with uneven pad deposits on the rotors, bent rims, or out of round tires and produce a lot of vibration under braking. The most common trigger for this is uneven pad deposits on the rotors as a result of a poor choice in pads for the driving conditions/style. If pads with too low a Maximum Operating Temperature (MOT) are fitted aggressive driving can result in the MOT being exceeded. If the car is brought to a stop before the pads and rotors have cooled to well below the MOT of the pads an imprint of the pad will be left on the rotor. That alone can cause minor vibration (usually just felt in the brake pedal), but coupled with minor faults elsewhere in the front suspension can cause steering wheel shake. Low-dust pads are common offenders when used on BMW's, even when the car is only driven on the street.

Re-bedding on the pads may help, but in stubborn cases scrubbing with track pads, sanding of the rotors, or replacement may be required. Since the wear allowance on BMW rotors is only 2mm, turning is seldom an option if there's appreciable wear as after turning the rotors will probably below minimum thickness. And obviously, if there is wear in the suspension or wheel/tire problems unless that is addressed the problem will continue or return.

While very rare, it is possible to have a warped rotor. A dial indicator check will tell if that's the case. But before blaming the rotor you should check to see if the mating surface of the hub has corrosion. Even slight corrosion of that surface (or of the rotor face) will prevent proper seating of the rotor and result in rotor wobble.

Yeah that's the college educated way of putting it :rofl

[brentbrent83]

when i had the car checked out before it bought it they said all the bushings where fine, and as far as the rotors, they are perfect so i dont see that being the problem. any other thoughts?

it could be your tie rods. i had the same problem with mine. my rotors and front tires were messed up because of my tie rods. so i replaced tie rods and rotors, and no shimmy (some from current fronts - replacing them either today or tomorrow).

[Johno]

Thejlvie know what he's talking about.

I had shimmy a while back and two shops told me the rotors measured fine.
So I replaced CABs, tire rods, control arms. Still there.

then I turned the after-market rotors -- well within the spec printed on the hub, and the problem vanished for $25. After spending >$1000 on other stuff. it was pad deposits.

the upside is my front end is tight.

I suggest biting the bullet and getting BMW rotors from the BMW dealer. My stock rotors from the factory lasted >60,000 miles. After market rotors always get pad deposits within about 12 months on my car, if not sooner.

[purduinaM3]

Where do you get your rotors turned? I have zimmermans that are not even a year old, and I also have a shimmy.

[antik]

First understand that a BMW suspension is very highly tuned and thus very sensitive to minor fault that would otherwise be insignificant on some other make. Slight wear in control arm ball joints or bushings, upper strut mounts, tie rods, or shocks can couple with uneven pad deposits on the rotors, bent rims, or out of round tires and produce a lot of vibration under braking. The most common trigger for this is uneven pad deposits on the rotors as a result of a poor choice in pads for the driving conditions/style. If pads with too low a Maximum Operating Temperature (MOT) are fitted aggressive driving can result in the MOT being exceeded. If the car is brought to a stop before the pads and rotors have cooled to well below the MOT of the pads an imprint of the pad will be left on the rotor. That alone can cause minor vibration (usually just felt in the brake pedal), but coupled with minor faults elsewhere in the front suspension can cause steering wheel shake. Low-dust pads are common offenders when used on BMW's, even when the car is only driven on the street.

Re-bedding on the pads may help, but in stubborn cases scrubbing with track pads, sanding of the rotors, or replacement may be required. Since the wear allowance on BMW rotors is only 2mm, turning is seldom an option if there's appreciable wear as after turning the rotors will probably below minimum thickness. And obviously, if there is wear in the suspension or wheel/tire problems unless that is addressed the problem will continue or return.

While very rare, it is possible to have a warped rotor. A dial indicator check will tell if that's the case. But before blaming the rotor you should check to see if the mating surface of the hub has corrosion. Even slight corrosion of that surface (or of the rotor face) will prevent proper seating of the rotor and result in rotor wobble.

:handclap

[bennyfizzle]

Where do you get your rotors turned? I have zimmermans that are not even a year old, and I also have a shimmy.

any brake place shouldnt have a problem doing it

[giterdone]

Where do you get your rotors turned? I have zimmermans that are not even a year old, and I also have a shimmy.

i don't believe you can turn slotted or x-drilled though. only blanks.


Just to comment, I had wheel shimmy under braking also. I just go tmy car back from my mechanic, and they changed my front rotors and pads. No more shimmy.

[Johno]

I have zimmermans that are not even a year old, and I also have a shimmy.

That's why I'm not longer getting brembos or zimmermans. The may be "OE manufacturere" but they are not BMW equipment.

If yours are relatively un-grooved they can be turned. There is a spec on the rotor hub that says what the minimum width is. Follow that and you're OK.

If they are newish enough you can perhaps get another 10 months out of them before a repeat.

I have euro floating rotors ready to install in front and will buy the back rotors and pads from the dealer.

[bhallid]

Jack it up - Turn your steering all the way 1 direction - take off the wheel and spin the rotor - does it look warped? My guess; buddy just had the exact same problem and put on new control arms and baby is back to normal. I'd bet control arms!

[markesq]

Wouldn't bad control arms make the steering wheel shimmy during other driving conditions, not just braking?

[TheM3nsah]

i don't believe you can turn slotted or x-drilled though. only blanks.


this is wrong, the shops will just tell you that becuase they dont want their bit to wear down. becuase the gaps in a slotted rotor cause the bit to wear faster. im not sure about crossdrilled but should be the same.

and to the OP did u bed ur rotors properly in the first place?

[kpipalldaway2]

well this m3 is an automatic so brakes are used a lot more than in a proper gear box:D
id also vote rotors being the route of this problem
hey fish how is your old air intak emade out of a garbage can???;)

il take the rotors in to get turned i guess, explain how i go about bedding the brakes, i di da search and it didnt make sence to me.
i just bought the car so i was never the one to bed them!

[giterdone]

hey fish how is your old air intak emade out of a garbage can???;)

il take the rotors in to get turned i guess, explain how i go about bedding the brakes, i di da search and it didnt make sence to me.
i just bought the car so i was never the one to bed them!

http://www.pagidusa.com/bedding_in_procedure.htm

[kpipalldaway2]

so am i suppose to ride my breaks when im doing this or what? gas and brakes to maintian 35 miles per hour, then come to a complete stop after i drive 2000 yardS?

[GUINNESS]

First understand that a BMW suspension is very highly tuned and thus very sensitive to minor fault that would otherwise be insignificant on some other make. Slight wear in control arm ball joints or bushings, upper strut mounts, tie rods, or shocks can couple with uneven pad deposits on the rotors, bent rims, or out of round tires and produce a lot of vibration under braking. The most common trigger for this is uneven pad deposits on the rotors as a result of a poor choice in pads for the driving conditions/style. If pads with too low a Maximum Operating Temperature (MOT) are fitted aggressive driving can result in the MOT being exceeded. If the car is brought to a stop before the pads and rotors have cooled to well below the MOT of the pads an imprint of the pad will be left on the rotor. That alone can cause minor vibration (usually just felt in the brake pedal), but coupled with minor faults elsewhere in the front suspension can cause steering wheel shake. Low-dust pads are common offenders when used on BMW's, even when the car is only driven on the street.

Re-bedding on the pads may help, but in stubborn cases scrubbing with track pads, sanding of the rotors, or replacement may be required. Since the wear allowance on BMW rotors is only 2mm, turning is seldom an option if there's appreciable wear as after turning the rotors will probably below minimum thickness. And obviously, if there is wear in the suspension or wheel/tire problems unless that is addressed the problem will continue or return.

While very rare, it is possible to have a warped rotor. A dial indicator check will tell if that's the case. But before blaming the rotor you should check to see if the mating surface of the hub has corrosion. Even slight corrosion of that surface (or of the rotor face) will prevent proper seating of the rotor and result in rotor wobble.


Very well said.

Also, one thing to use as a judge/guide... what kind of braking is it under? Moderate, light, hard? I just went to the shop today to speak with a mechanic about the vibration in my wheel under braking. It's there at speed and light to moderate braking. If I really stand on it and do some hard braking, no vibration. Without putting it on a lift and looking at everything, that's leading us to believe pad deposits or bushings.

Just something to think about... if you stand on the brakes hard and it's still there, it's more than likely rotors.

[GUINNESS]

so am i suppose to ride my breaks when im doing this or what? gas and brakes to maintian 35 miles per hour, then come to a complete stop after i drive 2000 yardS?

Yes, ever so lightly. Don't actually ride the brakes... hell, you shouldn't even have to push the pedal far at all, just barely.

[kpipalldaway2]

i doubt it, especially the shape you had your car in!
did you add boost?