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View Full Version : Running Costs S50B32



GG Allin
11-28-2007, 09:13 PM
I'm curious how expensive these engines are to maintain. I'm kickin around the idea of a euro powered E36 (94 M-Technic) but haven't a clue what I'm getting in to. Would it be similar to the S38 in my M5? The build and install cost I can deal with, I'm worried about the cost of stuff breaking though.

SG_M3
11-29-2007, 03:40 AM
valve adjustments, shims, oil change.

GazM3
11-29-2007, 05:33 AM
IMO if you have some tech knowledge / mechanical skills these engines arent that expenisve to maitain. Oil changes are the key at 5000km (approx 3000mi) and as mentioned before these run solid lifters needing periodic adjustment (re-shim) which is not that difficult to perform. other than this you do wear out brakes/clutches more than you would a regular type of car, but i guess this depends on how u use it. also its good practise to change diff/gearbox oil every year or so, and every 2 years change the brake fluid.

the m3 is only really expensive if u start to break things

GG Allin
11-29-2007, 03:47 PM
Encouraging words, thanks.

liquidtension
11-29-2007, 06:01 PM
i've had it for around 2years, had to change the crank speed sensor ($60 at the stealer after 20% discount), spark plugs (PKR7A ~$15/plug), and that's it. It is daily driven very hard also, but rememer to keep it below 4000rpm til it hits ~70'c, sometimes i kick it hard earlier if someone pisses me off though hehe but i try to keep it down to a minimum while it's cold. I'd say it's a really reliable engine! but i've heard others say different stuff... especially about the S50B32's vanos unit.

euro m3
11-30-2007, 04:26 PM
depending on how u drive u can get reasonable fuel consumption considering what it is

around town i get between 16 and 25 mpg depending on how long im stuck in traffic on a run i have had around 33mpg

mind u this is based on a 1995 e36 m3 3.0

cmackin300
12-20-2011, 05:48 AM
Changing the oil every 3000 miles is not a good idea if you are using modern fully synthetic oils.
The Royal Purple I run in mine HPS 10W-40 (part #31140, quart bottle) lasts for a minimum of 10000 miles even when driven hard in start stop condition. I have sent my oil off to labs to have it checked and at 10K there was almost no degradation of performance. I do change my oil filter every 3K because it's on top and an easy cheap thing to do. But the oil made my royal purple, redline and even the castrol 10-60 is good for at least 10K miles. You do need to properly service the vanos filters, valve adjustments, etc. As previously mentioned you should change brake fluid, coolant, and power steering fluid every 1-2 years dependning on conditions. If these are properly maintained they're bulletproof. And last time I took a long trip I averaged 33 mpg on the highway. So very economical as well.

JCooper
12-20-2011, 10:59 AM
don't forget rod bearings if you want the motor to last!

SMikha
12-21-2011, 12:23 AM
Changing the oil every 3000 miles is not a good idea if you are using modern fully synthetic oils.
The Royal Purple I run in mine HPS 10W-40 (part #31140, quart bottle) lasts for a minimum of 10000 miles even when driven hard in start stop condition. I have sent my oil off to labs to have it checked and at 10K there was almost no degradation of performance. I do change my oil filter every 3K because it's on top and an easy cheap thing to do. But the oil made my royal purple, redline and even the castrol 10-60 is good for at least 10K miles. You do need to properly service the vanos filters, valve adjustments, etc. As previously mentioned you should change brake fluid, coolant, and power steering fluid every 1-2 years dependning on conditions. If these are properly maintained they're bulletproof. And last time I took a long trip I averaged 33 mpg on the highway. So very economical as well.

if only you were supposed to use 60 grade oil in the Euro spec S50s :nono 40 grade or nothing.