Need help ordering belt tensioner parts... Please help.

[D Unit]

My car has 170K miles on it and I need to replace some wear and tear items. Since my belts are squealing and need to be replaced, I want to start with the belts, belt tensioner, and alternator, except I'm not 100% certain on what to order. Can someone please help me out with a complete list of items to replace to prevent myself from doing repetitive work?

08 - HYDRAULIC BELT TENSIONER 11281717188 $81.75
Do I need to order the Idler Pulley as well? Where is it?

[Balthazarr]

Your link to diag didn't work.
I think I have a diag in my bfc attachments.
Search for "belt tensioner" with a date of April 2004 or thereabouts.

There are several threads that include the part numbers for the pieces.
Search for those.

[D Unit]

Your link to diag didn't work.
I think I have a diag in my bfc attachments.
Search for "belt tensioner" with a date of April 2004 or thereabouts.

There are several threads that include the part numbers for the pieces.
Search for those.

I've been trying to read some of those threads, but I'm not much of a gear head. I was a little confused about the belt tensioner, pulley tensioner, and idler pulley tensioner. Are they the same are different? Should I replace them all?

[Balthazarr]

I've been trying to read some of those threads, but I'm not much of a gear head. I was a little confused about the belt] tensioner, pulley tensioner, and idler pulley tensioner. Are they the same are different? Should I replace them all?

Replace all,but don't get from the stealer.
Buy Febi parts.
Don't worry about the AC tensioner unless you want to do that too.

[Novacaine]

there are three pulleys. two belt tensioner (you have a main belt and a AC belt) and one idler pulley for routing purposes on the longer main belt. The car uses a piston connected to the tensioner pulleys to automatically tension the belts the correct amount (makes life easy). No need for a belt tensioning tool.

each of those three pulleys can go bad. first take off the ac belt and see if the squealing stops. if yes, spin the pulley by hand, is it smooth and noise free?? replace the belt only. if it the pulley is funky, replace it and migth as well replace the belt at this point. no one likes taking off that undertray. Oh and spin your AC compressor as well, does it spin nicely? hopefully or you got make another post asking about that.

if the squealing continues with the ac belt off, take off the main drive belt and spin the pulley's on that line. if any of them are funky, replace them. and then replace the belt if it has been a while. hopefully problem solved. try listening to the alternator hopefully that isn't your problem but it has been known to occur

[Ron97M3]

The best prices, free shipping, and he knows his stuff!

Not to mention he is a supporter of this site!

[Balthazarr]

I can't get the images to show so here is a link.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8678193&postcount=4

[D Unit]

I can't get the images to show so here is a link.
diag (http://forums.***************************************?att achmentid=180177&d=1171301505)

part numbers (http://forums.***************************************?att achmentid=180178&d=1171301642)

lol... links still don't work, but I did contact Art. He sent me a pretty complete list. What do you guys think? I'm going order as much as I can since I plan to make this car as long as it can... Hopefully this will help anyone else in the same boat as me.

How does this look Balthazarr?

Hi Darren,

To take care of your belts you will need the following part numbers:

11-28-1-437-873 A/C Belt
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=224

11-28-1-469-266 Alternator Belt
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=225

11-28-1-748-130 Idler Pulley Qty.1
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1255

11-28-1-748-131 Idler Pulley Qty.2
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1260

You can also get tensioner shocks but don't get them unless yours are leaking oil or feel weak.
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2422
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1266

To redo your cooling system you will need:

Expansion Tank:
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=270

Expansion Tank Cap:
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1903

Radiator Fan
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1920

Fan Clutch
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=58

Radiator Mount Qty.2
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1802

Thermostat
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1468

Aluminum thermostat housing (unless you already have one)
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=55

Thermostat housing gasket
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1470

Bleeder screw (old once are brillte can brake off in your new expansion tank)
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2478

Radiator L&R or Behr
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=53

Water hose
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1981

Water hoise
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1977

Water pump OEM or Graf
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1363

Upper radiator hose
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=56

Lower radiator hose
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=57

Hose clamp Qty.2
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=57

Hose clamp Qty.2
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2719

Hose clamp Qty.4
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2720

BMW Coolant Qty.2
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2026


Thanks,
Art.
RM European Auto Parts.
www.rmeuropean.com
303-317-4199

[Balthazarr]

Yeah, BFc doesn't allow linking images without a separate url.

I don't believe you have to buy a separate bleeder screw and t-stat housing gasket!
You'd think those would be incl with the main parts!?!

That's a lot of stuff.
IDK how much you want to spend, but that looks to be about $700-$800 for everything.
Imagine what it would cost from the stealer then add labor...

[D Unit]

Here's a quick list of things I'm about to order for the belts and stuff. Does this look good guys?

11-28-1-437-873 A/C Belt - $8.14
11-28-1-469-266 Alternator Belt - $13.75
11-28-1-748-130 Idler Pulley Qty.1 - $22.60
11-28-1-748-131 Idler Pulley Qty.2 - $19.40 x 2 = $48.80
11-28-1-717-210 INA (OEM) Belt Tensioner Hydraulic Shock for A/C Compressor Belt - $34.33
11-28-1-717-188 INA (OEM) Belt Tensioner Hydraulic Shock for Alternator Belt - $50.35

TOTAL: $177.97

11-28-1-437-873 A/C Belt - $8.14
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=224
http://www.rmeuropean.com/ProductImages/belts/11-28-1-740-023.jpg

11-28-1-469-266 Alternator Belt - $13.75
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=225
http://www.rmeuropean.com/ProductImages/belts/11-28-1-469-266.jpg

11-28-1-748-130 Idler Pulley Qty.1 - $22.60
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1255
http://www.rmeuropean.com/ProductImages/belts/11-28-1-748-130.jpg

11-28-1-748-131 Idler Pulley Qty.2 - $19.40 x 2 = 48.80
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1260
http://www.rmeuropean.com/ProductImages/belts/11-28-1-748-131.jpg

You can also get tensioner shocks but don't get them unless yours are leaking oil or feel weak.
$34.33
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2422
http://www.rmeuropean.com/ProductImages/belts/11-28-1-717-210.jpg
$50.35
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1266
http://www.rmeuropean.com/ProductImages/belts/11-28-1-717-188.jpg

[Novacaine]

tensioner shocks shouldn't be needed. I replaced one on a whim, but the old one was still good. Still haven't figured out why I run through AC belts in 4-5 months. all pulleys are new, shock is new, AC compressor spins beautifully. I'm mystified. new belt equals no squealing but give it 4-5 month and it starts coming back. AC blows cold too.

[Balthazarr]

That's CHEAP!
An AC belt for $8; Serp belt for $14.
Tensioners for low price too.
INA is good.

[Novacaine]

$8 is good, just dropped 20 for it at the $tealer

[D Unit]

How can I test to see if my tensioner shocks are bad? If they're not bad, then I'll just save myself the $90 and order everything else. BTW, what's INA?

[Balthazarr]

How can I test to see if my tensioner shocks are bad? If they're not bad, then I'll just save myself the $90 and order everything else. BTW, what's INA?

INA is supplier to BMW.

If tensioner is not leaking and belts are doing what they should,
no need to unless you want to avoid working on them later.

[D Unit]

Big thanks to Art from RMEuropean.com. I ended up replacing my belts and all 3 idler pulleys. For safe measure, I also ordered the two tensioner shocks just in case they were bad, but they weren't. I can't believe how much quieter my car is now. Not only did the squeal go away, but engine noise is noticeably quieter than before from inside the cabin. Thanks Art for the parts and thanks to all you guys that helped me out.

:redspot

[Julz69]

[B]Here's a quick list of things I'm about to order for the belts and stuff. Does this look good guys?

11-28-1-748-130 Idler Pulley Qty.1 - $22.60
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1255
http://www.rmeuropean.com/ProductImages/belts/11-28-1-748-130.jpg

11-28-1-748-131 Idler Pulley Qty.2 - $19.40 x 2 = 48.80
http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1260
http://www.rmeuropean.com/ProductImages/belts/11-28-1-748-131.jpg



So putting in these 3 idler pulleys stopped the noise in your engine bay? Did your car sound like it was supercharged?
TIA

[D Unit]

So putting in these 3 idler pulleys stopped the noise in your engine bay? Did your car sound like it was supercharged?
TIA

I wouldn't say it sounded like a supercharger before, but there was an audible difference when I changed them out that was VERY noticeable. I would highly recommend doing them. BTW, I did not replace any of the tension shocks either.

[IppoJ]

...there was an audible difference when I changed them out that was VERY noticeable. I would highly recommend doing them. BTW, I did not replace any of the tension shocks either.
X2 I did this right after I got my M3 earlier this year. With CalypsoM3's help it only took ~20 minutes to do everything and the chirping sound is now gone.
I did use Goodyear Gatorback belts instead of the Contis though, I really, really like the Gatorbacks.:redspot

[D Unit]

X2 I did this right after I got my M3 earlier this year. With CalypsoM3's help it only took ~20 minutes to do everything and the chirping sound is now gone.
I did use Goodyear Gatorback belts instead of the Contis though, I really, really like the Gatorbacks.:redspot

WTH? How did you guys do it 20 minutes??? I couldn't get to the lower pulley release to remove the bottom belt so I after giving up after an hour and half, I removed my radiator to get to it...

[IppoJ]

WTH? How did you guys do it 20 minutes??? I couldn't get to the lower pulley release to remove the bottom belt so I after giving up after an hour and half, I removed my radiator to get to it...
My front under tray is gone, I'll replace it in the spring.

[D Unit]

My front under tray is gone, I'll replace it in the spring.

I also uninstalled my JTD undertray and still couldn't get to it. Part of the plastic radiator shroud got in the way. I even tried a small allen wrench instead of the bulky 8mm hex... i suck at fixing cars....

[mikea128]

my tensioner shocks were extremely weak once i got them off...i couldn't tell before pulling them out or comparing to a new one, but it was a huge difference. much smoother motion on the new one and the rubber bushing at the end was very worn out on the old ones. I can't say for sure this helped my engine run smoother/quieter since I also did the belts and pullies at the same time, but it was clearly worth it in my mind based on the poor condition of the old ones....especially since everything will be apart already.

[stupenal]

I also uninstalled my JTD undertray and still couldn't get to it. Part of the plastic radiator shroud got in the way. I even tried a small allen wrench instead of the bulky 8mm hex... i suck at fixing cars....

Don't worry, it took me a couple hours to do my belts. I had to remove the upper radiator hose to remove my fan. Hence, had to add more coolant and rebleed. What a pain.

I went from the top, used a big ol pipe over an 8mm allen to get the torque needed to remove and replace the belts.

Here's the thing - my engine whines and squeels and is ridiculously loud. Replacing the belts quieted it down some, and I was going to do pulleys next. However, according to my records, previous owner replaced all pulleys within the past 50k miles. Would I need to replace them again?

I may tackle the tensioner shocks next...