Help!!! Problems problems problems

[starcraft]

I have a lot going on with my 1992 325i automatic. Please help me with what you can and I would greatly appreciate it. Here is whats up:

1) While in a car wash the engine shut off. This turned out to be the DME getting wet, however before I knew what was wrong I had assumed that the fuel pump broke. So, I sprayed starter fluid into the intake to see if that would start the car. Now that I got it running again, the check engine light for the emission related indicator stays on. Did I cause this by any chance?

2) Since the car wash, the car seems to struggle to stay on when I come to a stop. It will chug and the RPMs will jump between 500 and 800.

3) The brakes were done about a year ago by a normal mechanic (not a BMW specialist). Ever since then the brake lining wear light stays on. Moreover the ABS light comes on and off sporatically. It never stays on for a whole trip and by the same token it never stays off either.

4) The check light next to the electronic shift contol goes on and off sporatically. This is not in conjunction with the ABS light though.

5) There is a shimmy in the wheel when I am going at high speeds and turn to the right. The car will pull me in that direction and shake wildly. Its really dangerous.

6) The fan blade seems to not be on tightly. Sometimes it is loose and takes a little time to start and stop spinning. Othertimes it spins like it should (starting up immediatly with the engine and then stopping with it as well)

I know its alot and I am sorry for the long thread but I really need help. Also, feel free to let me know if I should sell the car cheaply as it is just to get rid of it. It is a nice looking car and only has 128000 miles on it but I think it might be too ruined. Thanks for the time.

[willie]

3) The brakes were done about a year ago by a normal mechanic (not a BMW specialist). Ever since then the brake lining wear light stays on. Moreover the ABS light comes on and off sporatically. It never stays off for a whole trip and by the same token it never stays off for a whole trip either.

The brake pad wear sensor needs to be replaced. There's one on each axle, and if it makes contact with the rotor it needs to be replaced. It's only a $15 or so item, so not too much. It doesn't hurt to not replace, but it is an annoying light.



6) The fan blade seems to not be on tightly. Sometimes it is loose and takes a little time to start and stop spinning. Othertimes it spins like it should (starting up immediatly with the engine and then stopping with it as well)

This sounds like the infamous exploding fan waiting to happen. Use the search for more info. I think this is why people do the FDM (fan delete modification) so it won't break apart and rip through your radiator, belts & hoses.

[starcraft]

Thanks alot willie. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

[bimmer4ever]

I have a lot going on with my 1992 325i automatic. Please help me with what you can and I would greatly appreciate it. Here is whats up:

1) While in a car wash the engine shut off. This turned out to be the DME getting wet, however before I knew what was wrong I had assumed that the fuel pump broke. So, I sprayed starter fluid into the intake to see if that would start the car. Now that I got it running again, the check engine light for the emission related indicator stays on. Did I cause this by any chance?

2) Since the car wash, the car seems to struggle to stay on when I come to a stop. It will chug and the RPMs will jump between 500 and 800.

3) The brakes were done about a year ago by a normal mechanic (not a BMW specialist). Ever since then the brake lining wear light stays on. Moreover the ABS light comes on and off sporatically. It never stays off for a whole trip and by the same token it never stays off for a whole trip either.

4) The check light next to the electronic shift contol goes on and off sporatically. This is not in conjunction with the ABS light though.

5) There is a shimmy in the wheel when I am going at high speeds and turn to the right. The car will pull me in that direction and shake wildly. Its really dangerous.

6) The fan blade seems to not be on tightly. Sometimes it is loose and takes a little time to start and stop spinning. Othertimes it spins like it should (starting up immediatly with the engine and then stopping with it as well)

I know its alot and I am sorry for the long thread but I really need help. Also, feel free to let me know if I should sell the car cheaply as it is just to get rid of it. It is a nice looking car and only has 128000 miles on it but I think it might be too ruined. Thanks for the time.

Because you have a few problems doesn't means to sell it.
I think you maybe damaged the flow meter (MAF) w/the starting fluid.
The brake pads needs new sensors
Traction control Light???
Sounds like a bad wheel bearing, jack the car and wiggle the wheel up/down and then right/left and hear for a click or looseness
Your fan clutch may be bad but check for friction- rotate fan w/car off and see if stops quick or stays spinning.

BTW- Good to hear that the car is running and DME isn't fried (rtv the dme cover to seal it)

[starcraft]

Thanks alot for the help.............. Would the broken MAF cause the car to have the emission related indicator light on. Also, would this cause the car to chug when I slow down quickly or speed up slowly? I am kinda broke right now too, so are these MAF sensors expensive? .......... I am not sure about what the check light is. I know its not traction control because the car doesnt have that feature. The manual just says it is the check control light. It is yellow/amber in color and is in between the electronic shift control and seatbelt warning lights........ I now know that the brake sensors have to be replaced, but will that fix both the brake lining wear light and the ABS light? Can I remove something to stop the ABS system from trying to work?

Sorry for all the questions...... I'm not that good with cars.

[starcraft]

Ohh and I almost forgot about the fan blade....... I am not sure how it is supposed to opperate but it sometimes is looser than others. I checked to make sure it clears everything around it, and it does (spins freely). Perhaps nothing is wrong. I just got a little spooked after reading all of these horrible stories about exploding fan blades. I guess the best way to describe it is that, if I give it a good spin by hand, most of the time it rotates maybe a half way around before stopping. However, other times it will rotate a full turn or two before stopping. Is this normal?

[DJ Genius]

Don't you dare to try to stop the ABS system, one day it might save your life, my friend.
Brake pad sensors will stop brake pad light comming on. And then you'll see what's going on with ABS light. Just change the sensors.
Don't rush on buying the MAF. First, get the engines light to be reset. I think your spray stuff caused the emision system to fail and make the light fo off, it's just telling you something is wrong, but you know it was because of that spray. So go and reset the engine lights. If the lights comes off again, then you try to solve the problem.

[starcraft]

How do I reset the dash lights? Do I need special equiptment to do it?

[starcraft]

If I disconect the battery and then reconect it will that reset the instrument panel??

[jehuflores]

I guess the best way to describe it is that, if I give it a good spin by hand, most of the time it rotates maybe a half way around before stopping. However, other times it will rotate a full turn or two before stopping. Is this normal?
If I understand correctly, you're talking about how much the fan spins. In my case because my fan clutch was gone the fan would do that, causing the car to overheat when I was in slow/stopped traffic. Mine would go about a full turn, after I replace it it'll go bout 1/4 of a turn.

[DJ Genius]

How do I reset the dash lights? Do I need special equiptment to do it?
You can get it reset by garage shop by Scan Peake Tool. But I would suggest to you to find somebody in your area with a tool and reset it.

[starcraft]

Thanks ........... guess I have to find someone in NJ who has the tool....... The car now bogs when I only give it a small amount of gas and it hiccups for a second if I punch the throttle. I'm guessing this is my MAF. Is there any way I can check to make sure that its broken?? And where is the cheapest place to get one of them. I appreciate the help

[supacharged21]

Thanks ........... guess I have to find someone in NJ who has the tool....... The car now bogs when I only give it a small amount of gas and it hiccups for a second if I punch the throttle. I'm guessing this is my MAF. Is there any way I can check to make sure that its broken?? And where is the cheapest place to get one of them. I appreciate the help

Relax and go get some MAF cleaner or electric parts cleaner. I am not sure on the bmw MAF, but on my camaro you can take a q-tip and carefully clean the diode's that are on the maf with the cleaner.

The diodes function off of heat, and give the computer a reading based off of that heat and the air movement cooling them. If they are dirty or coated, then you get a reading that is not in conjunction with what is actually happening with the air in the intake. This is why your car stumbles from MAF problems.