clutch slipping

[cabezon]

I've never had a clutch slip so much so quickly. the wierd thing is that the clutch pedal feels wierd. could something just be stuck? I only have 108K miles.

I drove home fine on the highway, but after I stopped at the grocery store it slipped on the way home. I hope it heals overnight. :(

is there a DIY? :help:help:help

[thm1102]

What do you mean so much so quickly? Did you just install a clutch recently?

[craka]

I think he probably means he didn't ever experience problems before and all of a sudden it started slipping.

Wait and see if it keeps doing it before you get too worried.

[cabezon]

no. but it was fine on the highway, and now... boom, slipping away. the feel of the pedal is all wrong too.

[Blanco]

Could be the slave or master cylinder going out.

[cabezon]

I got it to work today, bad idea but I made it. It was slipping in third on the on ramp, and I babied it along in fourth gear.

I'm searching florida german for a mechanic.

Should I go lightweight flywheel? any recommendations?

[miatawnt2b]

Hydraulic clutches go very very quickly with little warning... it's just the nature of the self adjusting hydraulics. Anyhow, the chances of the master or slave failure causing a clutch to slip is... well... almost too low to even calculate I would imagine. If a hydraulic cylinder fails, then the loss of pressure causes the pressure plate to put full force on the clutch... not the other way around.
-J

[miatawnt2b]

OH... baby the thing if you don't want to torch your flywheel.
-J

[DJ Genius]

The first I would try to do is to bleed the clutch, at least that would be out of my mind.

[cabezon]

Hydraulic clutches go very very quickly with little warning... it's just the nature of the self adjusting hydraulics. Anyhow, the chances of the master or slave failure causing a clutch to slip is... well... almost too low to even calculate I would imagine. If a hydraulic cylinder fails, then the loss of pressure causes the pressure plate to put full force on the clutch... not the other way around.
-J

OK, so I feel better that it's normal for it to be an all of a sudden thing. All my other cars had cable clutches or autotragic.


OH... baby the thing if you don't want to torch your flywheel.
-J

Bah, I babied it like, well a baby.

I have an appointment at a local shop, he quoted $1001. No change in flywheel. What about the guibo? I never had a car with one. Isn't it time for that thing as well?

[miatawnt2b]

if the guibo isn't bad, I wouldn't change it yet... though it is up to you. The part is cheap enough, and it's not any more labor since the old has to come off anyhow. It's not something that you need to pull the trans to get to or anything, so it is a DIY kinda job later on if you are comfortable crawling under a car and using tools. You can tell if they are bad with a quick visual. If it's shredded, replace it.

A grand seems a little steep to me for just a clutch job. Make sure he is replacing everything! Clutch, Pressure Plate, TO bearing, pilot bearing (many will cut this corner) and clutch fork pivot bearing and spring (many cut this one too) For the extra $5 for the pilot bearing and the extra $5 for the fork pivot & spring (dealer only item) I wouldn't chance not replacing them.

Here are part numbers for the pivot and spring.

21-51-1-223-328-M200 = pivot
21-51-1-223-234-M9 = spring

so those 6 items are the must IMO. If you want to be real safe, replace the rear main seal and the trans input shaft seal as well.

and remember, you CANNOT resurface the OEM flywheel. I just scuffed mine with a coarse 3m disk.
-J

[cabezon]

thanks. The price he quoted did include the rear main and pilot bearing

edit: OK, car is dropped off, I really liked the mechanics. the mechanic mentioned the lightweight flywheel, so I will finally be getting a cool mod, as I can slip that by the wife.

[KyleAwesome]

I'm needing a new clutch soon and was wondering how you liked your setup?