85 325 Conversion to 350 SBC 700R4

[BlownShovel]

I built this car a while back ...EDIT....PICTURES ADDED......
My account doesn't have image posting rights yet so i will have to add the pictures later....

.040" 350 Chevy and a 700R4 automatic with overdrive. Car was put together with many parts I had around the garage at the time. The conversion took less than 40hrs. I drove the car for several years before selling it last fall. I picked up an 87 325es for the new project.

[garretvs]

Hey Blownshovel

Those of us doing a swap into the E30 would love to see your pics and read a general write-up of how you did it re: electrical integration, exhaust system, cooling, fuel, etc and what the car was like to live with after the swap.

Garret & Steve E30-LS1 aka 357is

[BlownShovel]

Hey Blownshovel

Those of us doing a swap into the E30 would love to see your pics and read a general write-up of how you did it re: electrical integration, exhaust system, cooling, fuel, etc and what the car was like to live with after the swap.

Garret & Steve E30-LS1 aka 357is

I will post up my conversion pics once I have enough posts to link pictures. Btw I am also doing an ls1 project (95 Silverado)

[BlownShovel]

http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/PROJECTION01.jpghttp://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/FRONT_004.jpgHere are some pics

http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/ENGINE02.jpg

http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/DASH01.jpg

[whiltebeitel]

No burnout pics?

[BlownShovel]

http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/BMW_HOW_TO.htm

HOW TO Convert your BMW 325 / 318 Drive train to a Small Block Chevy Power


I have received numerous emails wanting more details about HOW-TO perform the conversion. I have plenty of notes and need to get them on the web before I forget all the details. I built the car in a few months. There are many ways to attack a conversion project. I performed research and took many ideas from the JTR s-10 Conversion Manual (http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Chevrolet_S-10_V-8.html). This conversion requires fabrication skills. A sawzall, welder, drill, grinder, and common sense are required to perform this conversion. I hoisted the motor into the engine compartment and studied the engine, engine compartment, and thought of how to attach all the necessary components. I don’t claim to have all the answers. This is how I performed my conversion.

INTERIOR

I installed a B&M Pro Stick in the factory 5-speed console. I put the backup lights on a switch. The neutral safety switch works. I had the dash apart several times. Everything works except the trip-o-meter. The speedometer is electronic and gets its signal from the rear differential. The factory gauges were manufactured by VDO. I installed VDO Tachometer and Voltmeter. I converted from 5-speed to automatic gas and brake pedals.

FIREWALL and TRANSMISSION

I used a hammer on the firewall where the trans. tunnel starts. Since I used a 700R4 instead of a TH350 I had to trim a small section (about an inch-inch and a half by 12inch long) of the tunnel on the passenger side where the tunnel flattens out to floorboard. (http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/BMW/Transfloor06.jpg) I used a factory transmission crossmember. (http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/BMW/Transmember09.jpg) I turned it around and moved it back (in the floorboard slots). My Father welded a plate on it to bolt the transmission mount to it. (http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/BMW/Transmember02.jpg) There is another crossmember under the car. I used it under the rear of the transmission. I bolted a rubber snubber from a traction bar to it to help support the rear of the transmission. We had to tweak the Transmission Dipstick Tube to face toward the front of the car a little more. (http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/BMW/TransDipstick.jpg)

BRAKES
The original brake booster would not clear the valve cover. There were many options..BMW motor sports offer a very expensive manual brake kit. There are also many aftermarket master cylinders (Summit/Jegs). I chose a part I had on the shelf a master cylinder from my 70 Chevelle. The unit is cast iron, heavy, but functional. I installed it but the brakes didn't work as well without a stiff push. I changed the relationship of the brake pedal, push rod and master cylinder to achieve a better ratio (more brake pressure with less foot pressure). I can't remember the ratio but do remember that I came up with a ratio slightly more aggressive than what WILWOOD (http://www.wilwood.com/Products/005-PedalAssemblies/pages/techtip/pedaltech.asp) brake manufacturing suggests (probably 6.5-7 to 1).

POWER STEERING
I haven't hooked up the power steering yet. I just hooked the 2 rack hoses to the factory reservoir. The car steers remarkably well so I haven't been in a rush to add the power steering pump.


CROSSMEMBER AND OIL PAN
I clearanced the front crossmember for oil pan clearance and then welded a few strengthening pieces to it. My motor is a 70’s vintage 350 with 99 Vortec Heads. The OIL PAN (https://web9.tdl.com/jags/Parts_S10-4x4OilPan.html) that I used is the same used for S10 4X4 V8 conversions. An oil pump pickup from a 4x4 V6 S-10 was installed.

MOTOR MOUNT

I originally tried to use the factory BMW motor mount locations. It wasn't working out that well. I took a faster, easier route. I ended up using a front motor plate. (http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/BMW/Motorplate.jpg) The motor plate spacing the water pump out 3/8 of an inch, which created pulley alignment problems. I cut and welded a pulley that I used for a while. I came across a SBC pulley from a mid 80's Monte Carlo SS that lines up pretty well. I'll find out how it works come spring.


COOLING

I installed a HOWE (http://www.howeracing.com/) aluminum radiator with a front mounted fan..very unfortunate that there is not as much room between the water pump and radiator. The front mount electric fan pretty much rules out an air conditioning install. (http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/BMW/Fans.jpg)


SUSPENSION
I haven't changed the factory suspension (Yet). So far the car drives well. It is a little more front heavy than before. The car has a little bit of a front end down rake. I figure the front came down about an inch and the rear came up about the same.


DRIVESHAFT

My drive shaft is actually 3 shafts welded into one. Chevy trans. yoke welded to a junkyard (Chrysler I believe) shaft that is welded to the BMW rear "yoke". The BMW drive shaft is NON-serviceable. I found this out after taking the u-joint off. We found a u-joint that fit at a local auto store. My father put everything together and hit it with a couple tack welds to hold the u-joint caps in place. (http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/BMW/Driveshaft03.jpg) I used epoxy to completely secure the u-joint in place.


STOCK REAREND.
Both axles had a bad cvc boot when I bought the car. It made a little noise when putting the car in drive or reverse. I made it a few thousand miles before one of the CV Joints pretty much came apart. I replaced the axle shafts with 90,000-mile axles and haven't had any problems since. I do have a 3.73 rear end to replace the 2.93 but haven't felt the need. I know the acceleration would be better but I really enjoy cruising in 4th gear below 2,000rpm on the freeway.

Some Extra Thoughts.
I put the Chevy motor in because I had it and I'm a Chevy guy. The HEI played a big part in engine location. I didn't want to get rid of the heater. The blower motor is at the top of the firewall and is pretty large. A crank trigger ignition would allow the motor to be set back further. If air conditioning was a must I would install a 4.3 V6. 200HP is easily obtainable with basic modifications. I would install this motor with the factory Fuel Injection and computer. The car would get over 25MPG with this setup. A small block Ford might fit easier than the SBC. A small block ford could be tucked further back in the car, possibly as much as 2 inches. A ford 2.3T..my next project would make 3-400HP while passing emissions, retaining AC and get over 25mpg...

last updated 03-17-02

[BrianLaverty]

Hey, Blown Shovel. You still around? I know this threads' kinda old, but I'm doing a SBC/T-5 e30 conversion into a 86 325es and had a couple of questions for ya.
First of all, I'm using a 1966 283 engine with a 2-pc rear main seal. By the looks of the aftermarket S10 4x4 oil pans, they seem to be 7-quart pans. Surely this would be way too low to the ground for our cars, no? Do you know if there is a 5-quart front pump pan for a 2-pc seal?

[BlownShovel]

I'm still around. The S10 pan was easiest as I had it laying around. You can fab your own pan and make it fit to your liking. I don't like cutting up or fabbing pans too often but I have done it especially when it comes to conversion pans.

[jonny2128]

what size radiator is that cause i have a bmw 318is with a chevy motor everythings complete but it keeps heating up and i kno its the radiator but im sure i can measure it and HOWE's can make it?

[BlownShovel]

what size radiator is that cause i have a bmw 318is with a chevy motor everythings complete but it keeps heating up and i kno its the radiator but im sure i can measure it and HOWE's can make it?



It is a std Howe radiator sold primarily to circle track racers. Nothing special or custom. I sold this car so I can't measure the radiator and my current car is running a half height radiator. The key is getting air flowing through the radiator. Are you using a mechanical or electric fans?

Any links to a build page for your car?

[jose1981]

I was going thru the forums cause iam building my e30 and i saw you did a crazy job urself I need advise or help on motor mounts iam trying to put and 383 small block in my e30 i saw you did the 350 same block i just dont know how to do the mounts if you can help thanks.
Compression:
10.1:1 (Trick Flow heads)

Reciprocating Assembly:
Trick Flow 3.750" forged crank and 5.7" forged rods, Keith Black hypereutectic pistons with -12cc dish

Camshaft:
Comp Cams hydraulic roller, 230°/236° duration @ .050, .510"/.520" lift

Rocker Arms:
Trick Flow roller, 1.5 ratio

Induction:
Edelbrock Victor Jr. manifold with Holley 750 cfm double pumper

:redspotabout 510hp and 495ft lbs of tourqe

[BlownShovel]

This particular car used motor plates. Others I have built/helped with utilized mounts on the front of the motor like mid 50's Gm trucks or fabbed motor mounts. Either way you need to fab some mounts on the inside of the BMW frame rails for the front or side engine mounts to sit on. I prefer the front style and use the BMW round rubber cushion mounts between the motor and frame rail mounts.

[SeveredHCustoms]

Obviously I'm resurrecting this post. I am currently swapping in a 4.6 Modular into my e30 and I was wondering how you clearanced the front cross member and if you have any pictures of it?