M60 knock sensor replacement

[94530inh]

Had the 1222 code, rippped the intake manifold off and replaced all the gaskets. I saw that my knock sensor boots were cracked. Ordered new knock sensors but have a problem. The coolant tube is in the way and the bolt will not come off unless i remove the tube. How should I go about draining the coolant so that I ont make a huge mess in the garage?


Also is there a torque spec on knock sensor bolts?

This is an m60 V8 motor

[Antrieb]

You have to drain the coolant from the block. I think the bolt for that is on the driver side. Then you have to take off the manifold in the back of the engine to get the coolant pipes off.

http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/c/k/3.png

[teufel530]

I was able to drain my motor without taking the manifold off. You have to do it from underneath and lift the motor up a few inches. Also add a little locktight to the bolt when replacing.

To keep the coolant from making a huge mess lift the car to atleast jack stand hieght and place a foam cooler underneath or something similar. I happened to have one that I bought for a party a few years back and cost me about $5. You're still going to get coolant on the ground but this method will collect most of it.

My bentlys did not have a touque spec. Best judgement but I would not go much higher then 15 fl lbs.

[Antrieb]

I was able to drain my motor without taking the manifold off. You have to do it from underneath and lift the motor up a few inches. Also add a little locktight to the bolt when replacing.

To keep the coolant from making a huge mess lift the car to atleast jack stand hieght and place a foam cooler underneath or something similar. I happened to have one that I bought for a party a few years back and cost me about $5. You're still going to get coolant on the ground but this method will collect most of it.

My bentlys did not have a touque spec. Best judgement but I would not go much higher then 15 fl lbs.
But he has to take off the manifold to get to the knock sensor. Sorry I wasn't clear about that before.

[teufel530]

Absolutely, you have to take the intake off.

[Antrieb]

Absolutely, you have to take the intake off.
No, lol. Of course the intake has to come off, I'm talking about the cooling manifold in the back of the engine. That has to come out (4 10mm poltb IIRC) before you can take the tube out which he needs to do to get to the knock sensor.

[teufel530]

Duh, now I get why you posted the picture, my bad. I read manifold and initially thought you ment the exhaust which made no sence to me. I was replying way past my bed time.

BTW the block has two drain holes, one on each side.

Antrieb - I need to ask you question about a seperate issue concerning setting the timing after the head gasket job. I can't seem to get my timing right even with the special tools.

[Antrieb]

Antrieb - I need to ask you question about a seperate issue concerning setting the timing after the head gasket job. I can't seem to get my timing right even with the special tools.
I would be glad to help you. I had the exact same problem with my engine when rebuilding so I'm sure I can help you. My AIM is "zacwiliams" if you have that otherwise send me a PM.

[Ratfink77]

Here's a little trick to avoid removing the water distribution assembly, and get the two bolts on the left side out.

Loosen the bolts as much as you can until they almost touch the pipe. Once you break the bolt loose it turns easily.

Then we used an air powered hack saw that looks like a miniature sawzall to cut off the bolt heads. Use whatever you can get that will fit in the space to cut it.

Then you can loosen the bolts the rest of the way with needlenose pliers and your fingers, and remove the old sensors.

To reassemble, use 25mm length bolts. They will fit in the space available and still have plenty of threads to hold the sensor.

[bertoneguy]

Here's a little trick to avoid removing the water distribution assembly, and get the two bolts on the left side out.

Loosen the bolts as much as you can until they almost touch the pipe. Once you break the bolt loose it turns easily.

Then we used an air powered hack saw that looks like a miniature sawzall to cut off the bolt heads. Use whatever you can get that will fit in the space to cut it.

Then you can loosen the bolts the rest of the way with needlenose pliers and your fingers, and remove the old sensors.

To reassemble, use 25mm length bolts. They will fit in the space available and still have plenty of threads to hold the sensor.

You are the man for posting this idea. Imagine how much more time (wasted) by removing the coolant manifold just to move the pipe out of the way... Thank you.

[dannyzabolotny]

My preferred method was always to remove the water pump on the front of the engine to remove the coolant crossover pipes. Yes, it might seem like more work, but it's much more accessible and far easier to work with the water pump than the rear coolant manifold... those rear coolant manifolds love breaking bolts and leaking if the gaskets aren't placed 100% perfectly.

[jehu]

My preferred method was always to remove the water pump on the front of the engine to remove the coolant crossover pipes. Yes, it might seem like more work, but it's much more accessible and far easier to work with the water pump than the rear coolant manifold... those rear coolant manifolds love breaking bolts and leaking if the gaskets aren't placed 100% perfectly.

Also removing the WP will save you from breaking one of the water manifold bolts off in the head... the BMW manual repair for this is to remove the head.. I had mine at a shop to do these and he was going to do the water pump end... I said :" Oh I did it from the water manifold and it was easy... so he did it that way and broke a bolt... some artful effort with a right angle air wrench helicoiling out the stub then used a stud in place and two nuts to hold that location in... worked ok but could have been worse.