What to replace first RTABS or RSMs?

[Garrett M]

I know both are needing to be replaced and i know i dont have any tearing jsut that they need to be replaced...Im tight on money and i feel that I should get RSMs just to play it safe and stay away from tearing. SUggestions?

[MSFIT]

RTABS are much more important, if you don't replace those and just go with RSM's you risk ruining your new RSM's because of the change of toe from f'd up RTABS. Just pony up and do both, or neither.

[Garrett M]

RTABS are much more important, if you don't replace those and just go with RSM's you risk ruining your new RSM's because of the change of toe from f'd up RTABS. Just pony up and do both, or neither.

Yea...Has anyone had a combo of after market parts they felt went well with their car?

[MSFIT]

I suggest stock RTABS, with shims, and ground control rsm's.

[Daved]

Have them inspected and replace the ones that are in worse condition.

[VeNo///M]

Get RTAB's first, the powerflex ones are nice.

[m3beemer16]

there's( there is) a groupbuy going on right now for Powerflex Rtabs and Lcabs for $130 shipped. If you're (you are) going to do the Rtabs You "might as well" do the Lcabs too.. I know.. never ending process huh? same thing here, the lists of maintence and upgrades never ends :[

[Sadiq]

"minus well?" I have never seen the english language mangled so bad.... i half expected you to say "your," which is bad enough, but you went with "you." Wow. Anyway, yea.. might as well go with both for $130 - that saves you about $10-15 on the set.

[VeNo///M]

"minus well?" I have never seen the english language mangled so bad.... i half expected you to say "your," which is bad enough, but you went with "you." Wow.

It's the internet, who gives a f*ck.

[Infini IV]

Stock RTAB's w/ shims sound like a pretty neat setup for a mostly street-driven car. For RSM's, I run the Rogue Engineering ones. Nice setup as well, but a bit pricey compared to stock, E46, or GC.

[cstang68]

I have GC RSM's with Pflex RTABS. No squeeks or rattles, slight increase in road noise but I can still hold a conversation at room volume with a passenger. It definately tightened up the rear of the car and made it much more predictable. I've got the VPD rtab puller, PM if you want to borrow it.

[Garrett M]

I auto cross monthly

[EricP]

I auto cross monthly

Oh man, if those are stock RTABs on that car they are SO torn. lols. Get some cheap upgrade RSM's and do the RTABs too. It'll make you happy in your pants.

[Stück]

Stay with stock. There is absolutely no reason to "upgrade" to uretane replacements or solid replacements for the RTAB's or RSM's

New RTAB's are $15 each or so, and new RSM's are $17 each. If $64 of parts has you scrapping then it might be time to seriously reconsider your choice of vehicle.

Buy OEM RTAB's (with GC's shims if you can) and buy the Meyle HD RSM's. They are built/look just like the stock part, but with a tapered inner core. They will last years longer.

[Balthazarr]

It's the internet, who gives a f*ck.

If you want to be seen as uneducated, fine.
Habits here translate to poor expression in communication elsewhere.
Many here can't even spell "definitely" or don't know the distinction between "then" and "than".
Look at the proliferation of misspelled words on TV ads or worse, MTV.

Anyway OP, get the RTAB's first if, the RSM's aren't torn.
But get both done soon.

[WytLytnyn]

Stay with stock. There is absolutely no reason to "upgrade" to uretane replacements or solid replacements for the RTAB's or RSM's

New RTAB's are $15 each or so, and new RSM's are $17 each. If $64 of parts has you scrapping then it might be time to seriously reconsider your choice of vehicle.

Buy OEM RTAB's (with GC's shims if you can) and buy the Meyle HD RSM's. They are built/look just like the stock part, but with a tapered inner core. They will last years longer.


+1 and do both at the same time.

[Blink21Me]

You're saying you're in a tight budget.... If you do the RSM's are you going to do it yourself??? The RSM's you can definitely do it yourself, which only costs ~$100, well I got the RE RSMs for that price... The RTABs will cost just a little more, but if you'ra having it done by a shop it'll cost you around $400...

[cstang68]

Stay with stock. There is absolutely no reason to "upgrade" to uretane replacements or solid replacements for the RTAB's or RSM's

New RTAB's are $15 each or so, and new RSM's are $17 each. If $64 of parts has you scrapping then it might be time to seriously reconsider your choice of vehicle.

Buy OEM RTAB's (with GC's shims if you can) and buy the Meyle HD RSM's. They are built/look just like the stock part, but with a tapered inner core. They will last years longer.

So stock RTABs are $22 a piece from pelican parts. The Pflex units are $70 for both. It's not that much more expensive. If you add TMS RTAB inserts (89.95) it gets even more expensive. If you autoX you'll either want Pflex bushings or stock bushings with inserts. The Pflex bushings are cheaper...

[m3beemer16]

"minus well?" I have never seen the english language mangled so bad.... i half expected you to say "your," which is bad enough, but you went with "you." Wow. Anyway, yea.. might as well go with both for $130 - that saves you about $10-15 on the set.

hahaha I didnt even realize I said that. Pardon the ebonics. I will edit.

P.S that was posted at 2am after drinking.. sorry it bothered you so much:confused

[m3beemer16]

I have GC RSM's with Pflex RTABS. No squeeks or rattles, slight increase in road noise but I can still hold a conversation at room volume with a passenger. It definately tightened up the rear of the car and made it much more predictable. I've got the VPD rtab puller, PM if you want to borrow it.

pm'd!

[Garrett M]

Ok im getting a lot of difference responses here... I want parts that will be suitable with auto-x and not a waste of money. If any could please link me to the products...

As far as being cash goes its only because of X-mas shopping (cant go over budget)

[earthwormjim]

The powerflex RTABs are supposed to push in easily.

The stock RTABs need to be pressed in. Although you could just make your own tool to do that.

[m3beemer16]

if you want to order the Powerflex rtabs and lcabs for $130 shipped go to www.AAKmotorsports.com at the bottom of the page theres a link for the Bimmerforums group buy. Heres the Bfc link: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8168319#post8168319

[VeNo///M]

if you want to order the Powerflex rtabs and lcabs for $130 shipped go to www.AAKmotorsports.com (http://www.AAKmotorsports.com) at the bottom of the page theres a link for the Bimmerforums group buy. Heres the Bfc link: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8168319#post8168319

Just wanted to clarify... that group buy comes with both LCAB's, both RTAB's, and all four sub-frame bushings correct? Basically everything but swaybar bushings? Thanks.

[Sadiq]

hahaha I didnt even realize I said that. Pardon the ebonics. I will edit.

P.S that was posted at 2am after drinking.. sorry it bothered you so much:confused



haha, my post was also at 2am after drinking :help

[M3 Eurotrash]

Just wanted to clarify... that group buy comes with both LCAB's, both RTAB's, and all four sub-frame bushings correct? Basically everything but swaybar bushings? Thanks.


Doesn't come with rear subframe mounts. Just Lcabs and Rtabs.

[Stück]

There is absolutely nothing to gain by installing urethane bushings on a car that sees 95% of its use on the street. They only thing you will gain is more NVH. They won't make you any faster, nor will they make any sort of significant impact on your road holding ability over brand new OEM RTAB's with or without the GC shims. I'd get the GC shims myself, the TMS ones are nicer looking but that point aside no better. KISS applies well here.

[VeNo///M]

There is absolutely nothing to gain by installing urethane bushings on a car that sees 95% of its use on the street. They only thing you will gain is more NVH. They won't make you any faster, nor will they make any sort of significant impact on your road holding ability over brand new OEM RTAB's with or without the GC shims. I'd get the GC shims myself, the TMS ones are nicer looking but that point aside no better. KISS applies well here.

Hmm, the NVH makes me worry, definitely don't need anymore than I have now, thanks. :nono I was considering the Powerflex for use in autocross, and ease of installation. Also in the past I have gone with OEM Bushings,and I know the urethane will last much longer, I'm assuming the GC Shims will make them much less susceptible to wear? If so then I will agree with you that it's the best way to go, Guess I'll just have to pony up and pay the extra for GC Shims and OEM Bushings. As for the LCAB's what would you reccomend? OEM as well? Thanks.

[m3beemer16]

heres an older thread discussing the same issue; http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=426553&referrerid=&highlight=powerflex+%22

[VeNo///M]

heres an older thread discussing the same issue; http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=426553&referrerid=&highlight=powerflex+%22

I've seen that, doesn't seem to address the noise/vibration issue that is common with the Powerflex bushings.

[pdub]

I have the Rogue RSMs and powerflex RTAB's and so far, so good. NVH is a non issue (right now). I'll let you know if things rattle to pieces in a year, but after 6 months with the RSMs and a few weeks with the RTABs, everything's golden and the rear end feels tight and planted.

It was worth it to me for ease of installation (in both cases) and the peace of mind knowing that I wouldn't have to replace either in a few years. To each their own.

[Razziel24]

can someone please post a pic or drawing of the RTABS and LCABS ? :95

Thanks :freak

[ucberic]

When do you normally replace LCABs? (Lower Control Arm Bushings?) Around the same time as the RTABs or do those last a lot longer? I just hit 85K on my M3 and I think I need to do the RSM (to be safe) and the RTABs as well.

[m3beemer16]

not sure the usual time period, but my car is around 88k and needs Rtabs badly and I am doing the Lcabs to go with the upgraded powerflex rtabs.. Ive dont the RSM's a couple months ago..

[VeNo///M]

can someone please post a pic or drawing of the RTABS and LCABS ? :95

Thanks :freak

Here is a Diagram that might help you out.

http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/3913/e36diagsc7.gif

Now for some identification:

1. LCAB's - Lower Control Arm Bushing's
2. Front Sway Bar Bushings

5. Rear Sway Bar Bushings
6. Front Subframe Bushings
7. Rear Subframe Bushings
8. RTAB's - Rear Trailing Arm Bushing's

Hope that helps. :freak

[ChosenGSR]

Here is a Diagram that might help you out.

http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/3913/e36diagsc7.gif

Now for some identification:

1. LCAB's - Lower Control Arm Bushing's
2. Front Sway Bar Bushings

5. Rear Sway Bar Bushings
6. Front Subframe Bushings
7. Rear Subframe Bushings
8. RTAB's - Rear Trailing Arm Bushing's

Hope that helps. :freak

This is excellent, thank you very much. Is this pretty much everything bushing-wise to worry about? Or is there a more complete diagram/list somewhere?

[Razziel24]

Here is a Diagram that might help you out.

Now for some identification:

1. LCAB's - Lower Control Arm Bushing's
2. Front Sway Bar Bushings

5. Rear Sway Bar Bushings
6. Front Subframe Bushings
7. Rear Subframe Bushings
8. RTAB's - Rear Trailing Arm Bushing's

Hope that helps. :freak

Thank you very much, It did help a lot :clap

[VeNo///M]

This is excellent, thank you very much. Is this pretty much everything bushing-wise to worry about? Or is there a more complete diagram/list somewhere?

That's a list of the more important bushings that are most prone to wear and that most commonly need replacement. There are several other bushings elsewhere in the suspension, I'm sure, but I'm not too familiar with them. These are just some of the main bushings. I'll look and see if there is a list of ALL of them anywhere, and I'll post it here.