E46 330 Brake upgrade

[Streetline]

Quote:
Dont know if these have been posted...but here is a missive from Dave Zeckhausen concerning this exact topic:

f you want the most flexibility for using factory and aftermarket
wheels without thick wheel spacers, you should avoid the Brembo and
StopTech big brake upgrades and, instead, grab a set of front brakes
from an E46 330i. It's a direct bolt-on and would replace your 286mm x
22mm rotors with much bigger 325mm x 25mm rotors. The only restriction
is the requirement for 17" wheels.

You would need the following parts to make the conversion:

34-11-6-750-149 Left Caliper
34-11-6-750-150 Right Caliper
34-10-6-750-158 Caliper Carriers (QTY 2)
34-11-6-750-159 Spring Clips (QTY 2)

Pacific BMW (1-800-909-PART) is a good source for these parts at a
discoutn price. I would suggest going to the aftermarket for a set of
Balo, Brembo, ATE, or Zimmerman rotors rather than getting them from a
BMW dealer. Quality is the same and price is lower.

I would suggest aftermarket pads. You should probably consider Axxis
Ultimate pads if you intend to do any high performance driving. If you
are going to road race the car on the track, then you'll need some track
pads. I can provide those.

Dave

__________________
[/QUOTE

[QUOTE]
Sorry to dig up an old thead but, I'm very interested in what I've read here and I'd like someone just to confirm that this can be done to the Z3 2,8 with same parts as above.

Thanks in advance, Carlo.



I posted this yesterday but in the wrong area :

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148711&highlight=rotors%29

Basically that's it,the same question as I asked yesterday, is it the same mod for the Z models. I have the 2.8.

Thanks.

[cgraff]

One caveat: You must do the appropriate rear brake upgrade or you will screw up your brake bias. E46 and E36 brakes have different MCs and valving in the ABS unit, and thus need different sized front vs rear brakes relative to each other to get the ideal brake bias.

-Chris

[nbirru]

call me crazy but i was looking at replacement aftermarket calipers for a e46 330i and I found calipers for $76 a piece at www.rockauto.com , just search the parts catalog

they are a1 cardone #192860.

anyone know anything about these? Could you just upgrade to these they are suppose to be aftermarket replacements.

[stirpicult]

call me crazy but i was looking at replacement aftermarket calipers for a e46 330i and I found calipers for $76 a piece at www.rockauto.com , just search the parts catalog

they are a1 cardone #192860.

anyone know anything about these? Could you just upgrade to these they are suppose to be aftermarket replacements.

they are remanufactured calipers, not aftermarket replacements. and they also require a core, hence the core charge of 50 bucks, bringing the total to 126.79.

[nbirru]

anyone know anything about a1 cardone
I keep searching on generic sites and I keep coming up with replacement calipers for a 330i around $80 seem like a good deal to me. I figure they will work just as good too because they fit the same size rotor
here is some links...may have to search on the page

http://webepc.wrencheadpro.com/cgi-bin/sewse?/u/www/webepc.com/cmm/scripts/epc10.cmm+global41

http://www.autopartsgiant.com/CAT_FRAMEX.cfm

www.rockauto.com

right caliper 192860
left caliper 192861

[nbirru]

they are remanufactured calipers, not aftermarket replacements. and they also require a core, hence the core charge of 50 bucks, bringing the total to 126.79.

Isn't taht cheaper than stock 330 from bmw?? How much do they normally run?

[tb0ne]

I would suggest aftermarket pads. You should probably consider Axxis
Ultimate pads if you intend to do any high performance driving. If you
are going to road race the car on the track, then you'll need some track
pads. I can provide those.


Do people really upgrade to 330 brakes if they aren't tracking their car? Isn't that a pointless waste of cash?

[stirpicult]

Isn't taht cheaper than stock 330 from bmw?? How much do they normally run?

i have no clue. i was just pointing out that it wasn't an upgrade (as "aftermarket" tends to get people to think) and it was really 126 a side. i'm sorry it is cheaper, since it's not brand new.

[Streetline]

@ tbone

Those words that you have quoted weren't originally mine.



Do people really upgrade to 330 brakes if they aren't tracking their car? Isn't that a pointless waste of cash?


I think that a lot of things that are discussed on this board could be considered " A pointless waste of cash " if you really want to see it in that way.

The whole point in the 330 upgrade is to obtain improved braking performance without going to the expense of an aftermarket BBK such as Stoptech or Brembo. Don't forget that these are OEM parts that it may even be possible to obtain economically from a salvage yard.

[Streetline]

Back to my original question: Are these "upgrade" parts cross compatible between the E36 328 and the Z3 2.8 ?



One caveat: You must do the appropriate rear brake upgrade or you will screw up your brake bias. E46 and E36 brakes have different MCs and valving in the ABS unit, and thus need different sized front vs rear brakes relative to each other to get the ideal brake bias.

-Chris


Thanks for pointing that out to me, I wasn't aware that there is a potential front / rear bias issue.

I had read in the original FAQ thread (link above) that there would be an extra inch or so travel at the bake pedal but the bias issue was not mentioned and the general direction of the discussion seemed to be towards only changing the front brakes.

Any other advice appreciated.

[tb0ne]

@ tbone

Those words that you have quoted weren't originally mine.



I think that a lot of things that are discussed on this board could be considered " A pointless waste of cash " if you really want to see it in that way.

The whole point in the 330 upgrade is to obtain improved braking performance without going to the expense of an aftermarket BBK such as Stoptech or Brembo. Don't forget that these are OEM parts that it may even be possible to obtain economically from a salvage yard.

My bad I got confused with the levels of quotes :)

330 brakes aren't going to improve your braking performance. They'll take a lot more abuse, but who needs that on the street?

[cgraff]

Thanks for pointing that out to me, I wasn't aware that there is a potential front / rear bias issue.

I had read in the original FAQ thread (link above) that there would be an extra inch or so travel at the bake pedal but the bias issue was not mentioned and the general direction of the discussion seemed to be towards only changing the front brakes.

Any other advice appreciated.

You have to calculate the stock brake torque bias based on the dimensions of the brake rotors and calipers, first (with and assumed line pressure). When this is done, you know the "balance" or brake torques you need front to rear at the disk/caliper.

This balance, if everything UPSTREAM to the master cylinder is constant, should be about 67%/33% for ideal brake bias in a 50/50 car. If the car is nose heavy, you need more bias up front, and vis-versa. This is why you see FWD cars with big front brakes and tiny rears, and why you see Porsche 911s with massive brakes both front AND rear. (Ideal brake bias balance is actually a function of load transfer under braking, but we can simplify this to front/rear weight distribution as opposed to actually finding the center of gravity (CofG) of a car, and resolving the load transfer under x-g's amount of braking.

Anyway, getting back to the bias calculations....the E34 M5 for example has a near 67%/33% brake torque bias, with no bias valves, no ABS unit trickery, no stepped master cylinder; i.e. the same line pressure front and rear. The E36 M3 is also the exact same (i.e. same line pressures front and rear).

The E36 325i, for example is about 61%/39%. The E36 325i also has different ABS and master cylinders than the E36 M3, which means there is a proportioning valve in the system to give different line pressures front and rear. Should you keep the E36 325i ABS and MC the same, then you need to resolve the brake torques from your rotor and caliper upgrades to get as close to 61%/39% as possible. The E36's upstream components will resolve themselves for the appropriate line pressure at the front and rear brakes to get you a physically near 67%/33% actual brake torque bias.

The calculations for brake torque are reasonably simple hydraulic pressure/force calculations. I have a spreadsheet at home that does this for me for a variety of different set-ups.

What I've found is that none of the Zionsville E46 upgrade "kits" front and rear really match the E36's requirements. You can get near, but it's not ideal. That is why I wouldn't recommend the Zionsville kits completely.

I don't have that spreadsheet here at work, but I can look it up for ya and give you some examples when I'm home. I'll make sure to get you the E46 330i fronts and stock E36 325/8i rears, and which rears you'll need to get the bias correct with the 330i fronts.

-Chris

[JedzE36/5]

good information. i have been doing research on a brake upgrade on my Ti since i put the 6 cylinder in. im glad i found this thread.

[Streetline]

My bad I got confused with the levels of quotes

330 brakes aren't going to improve your braking performance. They'll take a lot more abuse, but who needs that on the street?


No worries, I did present it poorly :) thanks anyway.


Ok, so I'd get greater resistance to fading etc but not necessarily shorter stopping distances.. hmm. I suppose that is always an improvement though.

I became more interested in this conversion also because I know where there's a totalled E46 330 and thought, well if I can get the parts for a reasonable price it would make a good weekend project. Also, my current front disks will be up for renewal soon.

@ Chris

Thanks for taking the time to explain the significance of the bias ratio in such a detailed manner. Very interesting.:buttrock

[stirpicult]

330 brakes aren't going to improve your braking performance.


are you sure about that? how do they not?

[G. P. Burdell]

Larger rotors and pads do not guarantee a shorter stopping distance.

330 front brake pads are the same size as the pads for an E36 M3. While it's true that 330 brakes give you increased pad-to-rotor contact area, you also gain a few pounds of unsprung weight at each wheel due to the larger rotor and caliper mass. If you have 15" or 16" wheels now and want to put 330 front brakes on your car, be aware that you'll also have to switch to 17" (minimum) wheels and tires, which also increases the amount of unsprung weight.

Tire compound, ambient temperature, the condition of your suspension, and vehicle weight are just a few of the factors that help determine your car's stopping distance.

[Streetline]

I currently have the OEM 17" wheels so that's not a problem.


330 front brake pads are the same size as the pads for an E36 M3.

So the E36 M3 or E36 MZ3 swap would yield the same results. I think I would need to change the spindles though.

Thanks

[orthm]

Larger rotors and pads do not guarantee a shorter stopping distance.

<snip>

Tire compound, ambient temperature, the condition of your suspension, and vehicle weight are just a few of the factors that help determine your car's stopping distance.

Correct on all counts... The stock system is limited by traction, not fade. Even on track, the stock components will last 30 minute sessions unless you're running in the advanced or instructor groups and really pushing it at a place like Sebring or Summit Point. Even so, the rotors and calipers work fine. The pad compound and brake fluid choice have more to do with how quickly fade sets in.

Bigger components offer more surface area for cooling and pad contact at the price of increased unsprung weight and rotational mass. Going to larger rotors and wheels has the same effect as putting a heavier flywheel on a motor. It now takes more energy to accelerate all the rotating components, which equals being slower unless there's more power available.

[G. P. Burdell]

So the E36 M3 or E36 MZ3 swap would yield the same results.
The M brake swap would yield similar results. M3 front rotors are 315x28mm compared to 325x25mm for 330 rotors. I forget which one is heavier. The difference isn't huge.

[photopaintball]

Wouldnt a zionsville kit for e46 brakes all around be simmilar enough bias for a non-m e36 car?

Can someone pull up the bias ratios on both cars?

[cgraff]

Wouldnt a zionsville kit for e46 brakes all around be simmilar enough bias for a non-m e36 car?

Can someone pull up the bias ratios on both cars?

OK...here's the brake torques with constant line pressure, stock MC and no proportioning valves anywhere on stock E34s: (front/rear)

E34 M5: 68.8% / 31.2%
E34 535i: 67.5% / 32.5%
These cars are near 50/50, in fact I believe the 535i is perfect 50/50 static weight distribution. The brakes are very well biased indeed.

Now, if you do the brake torques at the wheels for the E36, with constant input line pressure but with it's stock MC you'll get these:
-- E36 325i standard: 68.1% / 31.9%
-- E36 328i convertible: 66.3% / 33.7%

These are some of the aftermarket ones available:
E36 Brembo Upgrade 1 front and rear (320mm fronts): 66.6% / 33.4%
E36 Brembo Upgrade 2 front and rear (335mm fronts): 67.8% / 32.2%
E36 StopTech Upgrade 1 front and rear (332mm fronts): 64.8 % / 35.2%

Personally, I feel that the StopTech one may be a bit to rearward biased.

Now, here are the E46s (discounting proportioning that the DSC unit does):
E46 323i stock: 60.8% / 39.2%
E46 325/8i stock: 60.4% / 39.6%
E46 330i stock: 60.7 % / 39.3%
(So we know that the E46s use a proportioning valve somewhere down the line in the DSC/ASC units to get at the wheel brake torques correct)

And now, for some combinations that you can put on an E36 (keeping MC and ABS units constant) (here's the brake torque at the wheels distributions):

1. E36 with E46 323i brakes front and rear: 64% / 36%
-- Too much rear brakes.
E36 with E46 325i/8i front and E46 323i rear: 65%/35%
-- Slightly too much rear brakes

2. E36 with 325/8i E46 brakes front and rear: 64% / 36%
-- Again, way too much rear brakes for the E36. Too much rear bias (while maybe wanted on track) can cause you to lock up rear brakes quicker than fronts...and perhaps lose control under braking. Granted, we have ABS....but no driver aid is a match for pure physics.

2. E36 with E46 325/8i front, E36 328iC rear: 68% / 32%
-- I feel this is a good combo. 16's fit under it too.

3. E36 with E46 330i front and rear: 66 % / 34%
-- This isn't much different than the E36 328iC set-up, but I still feel it may be just a tad too much rear biased. In any case, it's very decent, potentially cheap, but only 17's (and some 16s) fit on it.

4. E36 with E46 330i front and E46 325i/328i rear: 68% / 32%
-- This is an ideal street set-up. But again, only 17s fit.

5. E36 with E36 M3 fronts and E46 330i rears: 67% / 33%
-- Again, only 17's and some 16s fit., also ideal set-up

Now, I like a lot of stuff Zionsville's done. But here's they're set-ups:

Stage 1: E46 325i/328i fronts / E46 323i rears
Stage 2: E46 330i fronts / E46 325i/328i rears
Stage 3: M3 fronts / E46 330i rears

I'd only really recommend stage 2 and 3. Not Stage 1, as it gives slightly too much rear brake bias.

If you've got 17s, and don't plan on keeping 16s, then most any brake upgrade is ok. But if you must run 16s...you're pretty much SOL. Only #2 really works well (E46 325i/328i fronts and E36 328iC rears).

Hope this helps.

-Chris

EDIT: I corrected a mistake on the rear 330i info I had and the Zionsville set-ups. I also now include brake torques at the wheels for the E36s. Also, these set-ups ARE NOT valid for ti's or Z3's as those cars use different rear suspension trailing arms and regular E36 brakes won't fit on the rears.

[photopaintball]

thanks a lot:)

[Streetline]

Thanks for all the great info.:buttrock

[mikiro]

Yeah thanks a lot for the info. I was worried for a sec. there when i started reading the beginning of this thread as i had already installe dmy zionsville kit. Luckily its the stage 2 complete with stainless steel lines. Quick question, does anyone know what if any changes need to be made to the master cylinder?

[G. P. Burdell]

Quick question, does anyone know what if any changes need to be made to the master cylinder?
Larger caliper pistons can contribute to a soft pedal feel or longer pedal travel. If you want to firm up the pedal, install an E36 M3 brake master cylinder. Search my user name and "brake master cylinder" for a thread that may be useful.

[1996 328ti]

Since people refuse to believe this. Let's repeat.

Tire compound, ambient temperature, the condition of your suspension, and vehicle weight are just a few of the factors that help determine your car's stopping distance.
And I will add that tire compound is the biggest factor. Compare braking distance with snow tires to R-comps. Night and day.

[G. P. Burdell]

But...but...bigger is always better y0!! :rolleyes

It's a shame that Michael Romano's Web site on brakes is no longer around. That was an incredibly informative site.

[Streetline]

3. E36 with E46 330i front and rear: 58.6 % / 41.4%
-- This isn't much different than the E36 328iC set-up, but I still feel it may be too much rear biased. In any case, it's decent, but only 17's (and some 16s) fit on it.


I like the sound of this conversion, even if it has slightly more rear bias.

Also if you can find a salvaged 330, you have all your parts there.

It would seem that the front end would be an easy conversion for the Z3, basically the same as the E36 ( discs, calipers, carriers & clips ).

What about the rear on the Z3 (coupe), has anyone tried this ?


Thanks all for your great advice.

[cgraff]

I like the sound of this conversion, even if it has slightly more rear bias.

Also if you can find a salvaged 330, you have all your parts there.

It would seem that the front end would be an easy conversion for the Z3, basically the same as the E36 ( discs, calipers, carriers & clips ).

What about the rear on the Z3 (coupe), has anyone tried this ?


Thanks all for your great advice.

Yes, I actually have some new information, which may change those numbers slightly. You also have to remember that the E46 used a stepped MC whereas the E36 did not, this is why a straight swap won't necessarily work between the two cars (which is the whole point of beware E46 brake upgrades). In any case, I'll confirm my new calcs on bias tonight.

-Chris

[cgraff]

Since people refuse to believe this. Let's repeat.

And I will add that tire compound is the biggest factor. Compare braking distance with snow tires to R-comps. Night and day.


So very true!

-chris

[Streetline]

But...but...bigger is always better y0!!


Isn't that why poseurs go oversize anyway ? :D

No, but as far as the aesthetics are concerned, I'd have to lie If I said that I wouldn't like my rims to be little more filled out by the brakes.

Considering the slight problem of the increased unsprung mass in such a conversion, do any of the aftermarket rotors (that are reasonably priced) weigh any less an therefore help to negate the increase ?

[1996 328ti]

Isn't that why poseurs go oversize anyway ? :D Real men work (and women) work with the tools they have. :D
You really need to speak with other Z Coupe owners.
I might be concerned that you don't have a lot of weight on the rear plus the semi-trailing arm suspension may compromise braking. I could be wrong but. . .
They reason I say this is because I was using track pads front and rear (on track) and found myself having too much rear brake. The rear would slide around a bit. Since going to track pads in the front and good street pads in the rear, moderate to hard braking has improved greatly. We share the same characteristics of the car. Maybe calipers/rotors aren't the same thing as just pads. But the last thing you want is for the rear to swing out from you under moderate to hard braking.

[cgraff]

Real men work (and women) work with the tools they have. :D
You really need to speak with other Z Coupe owners.
I might be concerned that you don't have a lot of weight on the rear plus the semi-trailing arm suspension may compromise braking. I could be wrong but. . .
They reason I say this is because I was using track pads front and rear (on track) and found myself having too much rear brake. The rear would slide around a bit. Since going to track pads in the front and good street pads in the rear, moderate to hard braking has improved greatly. We share the same characteristics of the car. Maybe calipers/rotors aren't the same thing as just pads. But the last thing you want is for the rear to swing out from you under moderate to hard braking.

The Ti is an alltogether different beast than the regular E36, as you've found out. Having a shorter wheelbase and more front weight bias, the Ti is very sensitive to too much rear brake bias. You *ought* to rectify your situation with the appropriate front/rear calipers/rotors such that you can run identical pads front and rear and not worry about bias. I mean, honestly, different pads front and rear is like fixing a hack.....do-able, but not ideal.

I have a friend of mine who did an S52 conversion to his Ti, and upgraded his brakes with an eye to the appropriate bias. It really works VERY well now and he's been on track with it.

[G. P. Burdell]

Considering the slight problem of the increased unsprung mass in such a conversion, do any of the aftermarket rotors (that are reasonably priced) weigh any less an therefore help to negate the increase ?
The E36 M3 OE floating front rotors are slightly lighter than their non-floating counterparts. Active Autowerke also offers Exzess floating rotors for the E36 M3. They seem a little pricey. I'm not aware of any floating rotors in E46 non-M3 fitment.

Cross-drilled/slotted aftermarket rotors would naturally weigh less, but at the expense of thermal capacity.

[Streetline]

You really need to speak with other Z Coupe owners.


Good call :buttrock Yes I'll post up a fresh thread over there. There will be no doubt others that have considered these options prior to myself.

It's been a good informative thread. Thanks to everyone that has taken the time to offer their advice and opinions.

[1996 328ti]

The Ti is an alltogether different beast than the regular E36, as you've found out. Having a shorter wheelbase and more front weight bias, the Ti is very sensitive to too much rear brake bias. You *ought* to rectify your situation with the appropriate front/rear calipers/rotors such that you can run identical pads front and rear and not worry about bias. I mean, honestly, different pads front and rear is like fixing a hack.....do-able, but not ideal.

I have a friend of mine who did an S52 conversion to his Ti, and upgraded his brakes with an eye to the appropriate bias. It really works VERY well now and he's been on track with it.The ti has the same wheelbase as other E36s. Maybe an inch difference depending on LCAs. Different pads front and rear is not a hack. Very common practice. Ideally I'd like to have an M Coupe rear subframe and brakes. At +200K miles I don't have the desire nor the money.

[cgraff]

The ti has the same wheelbase as other E36s. Maybe an inch difference depending on LCAs. Different pads front and rear is not a hack. Very common practice. Ideally I'd like to have an M Coupe rear subframe and brakes. At +200K miles I don't have the desire nor the money.

Ah yes, same wheelbase. Sorry. My brain fart.

As for different pads front and rear...it is a hack even if its common practice. You should be able to size the brakes front and rear appropriately for the car and driving environment. That's the correct engineering way to do it. I understand that in a real world situation where you don't have all the options in the world to pursue as far as sizing components goes, and price and availability are issues, you might have to resort to different pad compounds. I've seen that done numerous times just fine. But in the end, it's the same type of thinking as putting on different tires front vs rear. It's like you're putting on a super sticky R-compound tire on the front and a normal "summer" tire on the rear to cure your understeer issues you got from a poor suspension upgrade or setting.....it's a hack. If you're going to the expense of upgrading your brakes, do it right from the start, that's all I'm saying.


-Chris

[19jerryo63]

I am interested in doing an upgrade on my e46 330i brakes.....in my opinion the stock discs are far too soft wearing out prematurely and all the dust on the wheels is a joke. Does anyone have any advise on what is a good direction to take here.....this is purely for street use. Thanks in advance.

[M52 POWER!]

G.P. Burdell just wanted to say I have the E46 330i brakes if you remember from past threads a long time ago and installed a 95 e36 M3 MC hoping for a firmer pedal.

Unfortunately it feels almost exactly the same! The first inch or so is soft, then it firms up real quick. Is this the best it gets? I've bleed the car many many times, possibly air bubbles in the ABS system but I've bleed that with the abs pump activated 3x now.

[RhInO328i]

Yes, I actually have some new information, which may change those numbers slightly. You also have to remember that the E46 used a stepped MC whereas the E36 did not, this is why a straight swap won't necessarily work between the two cars (which is the whole point of beware E46 brake upgrades). In any case, I'll confirm my new calcs on bias tonight.

-Chris

Thinking about doing the E46 330i fronts/328i rears to my car soonish.

Any more info on the above ???

[Volcom8190]

idk, i think ill be going with brembos

[G. P. Burdell]

G.P. Burdell just wanted to say I have the E46 330i brakes if you remember from past threads a long time ago and installed a 95 e36 M3 MC hoping for a firmer pedal.

Unfortunately it feels almost exactly the same! The first inch or so is soft, then it firms up real quick. Is this the best it gets? I've bleed the car many many times, possibly air bubbles in the ABS system but I've bleed that with the abs pump activated 3x now.
Yes, I remember. Unfortunately, my E36 328i was wrecked more than a year ago, and I do not have it anymore. As I recall, the change in pedal feel with the M3 master cylinder installed was rather subtle, but still noticeable.

[dls729]

Has anyone figured out the parking brake dilemma for the E46 330i rear brake swap? I'm thinking about doing this on my 92 325i, does anyone know if it matters that it's a pre 6/92 production date? Also does anyone know the part numbers for the E46 330i or 325/328i rear brake swap? Help is appreciated, thanks

[G. P. Burdell]

Also does anyone know the part numbers for the E46 330i or 325/328i rear brake swap? Help is appreciated, thanks
You can look up the part numbers on RealOEM (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/).

[ClayMan]

What about this combination? What's the distribution for this?
-E46 330i fronts with E36 M3 rears

[jimmyloose]

So what options for rear brakes do 318ti owners have?

[earthwormjim]

So what options for rear brakes do 318ti owners have?

Z3M rear brakes I believe.

[cedchung]

What will be the brake torque if I upgrade the front brakes to E46 330i and leave the rears stock on my 325i?
Thanks

[str0ngbad]

I really wish that there was a definitive answer on this one. I too have 325 and want larger brakes, even if its just to fill out V710's or CSL Reps. I have spoken to several reputable shops and they all say that the 32x parking brake shoes would need to be modified to sort this out, this being a 330 brake upgrade front and back. When I ask about leaving the rears stock size and upgrading the front to 330 (caliper, rotor, pads etc) I get the "you will screw up your brake bias" answer. Its almost like "you'll shoot your eye out". Does it really screw up the brake bias on a E46, or a E36 for that matter? There is a set of front and rear E46 M3 brakes for sale on these forums.. I'd love to purchase and install those but again, the parking brake issue comes up. It seems like this is a popular discussion, has someone figured out how to get the parking brake working correctly? This reminds me of the Non-M header discussion on the E46's. There are plenty of headers including ebay and others.. however there are none with cat's included. If someone had the time to sort out these two items, they would make a fair but of cash, imo.

[yeomgon]

great info.

[Matheus]

very nice info here..

Regarding brake up-grades needs, if is a 100% street car, off-course, the brake up-grade is not a must, because E36 cars has a good brake system by factory.

but, for people like me, that run in trackdays, the brake up-grade is a must.

I burned the pad/calipers in my former car running in Interlagos trackday.. i lost 100% of my brake after 18 min of track.. i came back to boxes using handbrake only.

Some circuits like Interlagos heater the brake system very fast..

Im thinking in going to E46 brakes too.. but i don´t want use 17" wheels, due increase rotational mass.. but, i will decide after..

[Sanderman]

Hi, i am going Forced induction soon and must Upgrade my brakes,because the current are dead on my 328i E36.
I am really thinking about E46 330 upgrade front and rear.
The question is - are there 16" rims that can feat Rear 330i brakes?
Since I am drifter, it's very important, because sponsor can get only 16" tires [for rear only].
Will be glad to hear some expirience from people.

[Rubberduck]

Hey, then use E46 325/328i in the rear, they are 294/19 and then there is no problems for the parking brakes

[325iklu]

This is a good thread to bring back up

I also have a question that might be answered here.

I upgraded my fronts to a Brembo 4 piston 320mm 2piece rotor w/ ss lines. Looks great and breaking distance is great.

Question: What are my options for rear breaks? Can i use the 330 rears?

I dont want to buy a rear BBK for $2k

[thedude60126]

Very informative thread great job guys

[C3322HC]

A guy from DTM Society forum said that e46 330 rear brakes fit perfectly on E36, and for the problem with the hand brake you'll need e36 M3 handbrake pads.
There's a link to his thread
http://www.dtmpower.co.za/forums/showthread.php?t=2003

[techno550]

If you want to keep the rear e-brake functional, E46 328 rear calipers are the answer. Acutally, bias wise, a full set of E46 328 calipers is your best bet.

like these (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1244853) :)

[RaceTec]

A guy from DTM Society forum said that e46 330 rear brakes fit perfectly on E36, and for the problem with the hand brake you'll need e36 M3 handbrake pads.
There's a link to his thread


the link is broken... only changing the handbrake pads to the m3 e36 the problem is solved?
thanks

[synkro]

This is a good thread to bring back up

I also have a question that might be answered here.

I upgraded my fronts to a Brembo 4 piston 320mm 2piece rotor w/ ss lines. Looks great and breaking distance is great.

Question: What are my options for rear breaks? Can i use the 330 rears?

I dont want to buy a rear BBK for $2k

Sorry for bringing back an old thread but I'm having the same question.

I've upgraded the fronts with a Brembo GT just like the one above and I'm wondering if the 330i e46 rear brakes will complete the system.

The guys from Brembo said that using the stock rears will be just fine, but I guess that there's room for improvement.

Thanks

[mikerob97]

I have the E46 330 up front, and the E46 328's in the rear. Stock master cylinder. I also used the brass guide pins, Brembo cross drilled rotors and Akebono pads. Also installed stainless steel brake-lines. The set up is wonderful! I can drive the car hard and have never experienced any brake fade. The pedal does not have any excess travel. The incremental upgrade costs for this project were under $500. Used front and rear calipers. I even had them powder coated prior to installation and rebuilt the calipers with new seals. I am not disputing what anyone has said in this post - just providing some feedback from someone who has done the upgrade.

[Consonance]

What about this combination? What's the distribution for this?
-E46 330i fronts with E36 M3 rears

This is exactly what I asked but I can't find out the brakes suitability for this application.

Any help...?

[TK84e30]

So much good information. Still a little confused on what a "ideal" setup would be. I have a e36 325, I was thinking e46 330 fronts and e46 325 rears with a e36 m3 master cylinder.

[Jason5driver]

Are the E46 330i calipers aluminum or cast iron?
Will they fit on the E39?
:D

[Reizvoll]

rebirth of a dead thread! sorry i believe there should be a lot of info on this subject.

the e46 330i calipers are cast iron, and heavy, maybe 15-20 lbs a piece compared to 7-10 lbs for the stock

[cfreak]

Ok folks. Im having a bit of a problem in this 330-brake upgrade. E36 325i -92 and 325x25 rotors upfront. 330i calipers with Z4 carriers, but the carrier seems to be to small but according to what i can see the part-number is all the same.. OR are they? I mean i can't even see the difference from Z4 to e46 330i. Something tells me the Z4's are the wrong ones.

Edit: Problem kinda solved itself. New carriers ordered

[CrabFish]

Im thinking of the dust shields. Will the stock ones need to be removed? If so will the ones from 330i just bolt on?

[Reizvoll]

no you can use your stock dust shields.

[MParallel]

And you can always cut away parts of the dust shield if they are in the way.

My dust shields were cut a major way when my BBK was fitted.

[rome2001]

Im not trying to revive an old thread but has anyone upgraded their brakes? (http://www.webuyyourusedcar.com) I'm interested in turning my 330 into a street vehicle.

[Reizvoll]

This thread is in reference to 330 brakes on an e36.

[hrpkustoms]

hello everyone i have a set of 330i front drilled and slotted rotors for sale brand new 130.00 bucks for the pair and also have new calipers if interested let me know . thanks

[BLAKE AuST]

I've just bought a e36 318is im building as a trackcar.

I'd like the biggest brakes front and rear that will fit under 17's

My idea is;
Front - ksport 330mm 8piston caliper (friends all run this kit with great results!)
Rear - OEM 320x22 330i caliper/rotor

from what i have read, getting the 330i rears to work will need either the whole suspension from 330i, OR to reline the handbrake shoes *4mm thicker.

Can anyone help calculate bias? depending on the bias numbers, the 294x19mm 328i rears might be better...

Thanks
BLAKE AuST

[tstcbx4v]

my car got e46 330 for rear
and e38 brembo front

and its hold much better than original one

[BLAKE AuST]

my car got e46 330 for rear
and e38 brembo front

and its hold much better than original one

Hey mate, can i ask what was involved in getting the e36 brembo caliper and 330 rears working on the e36 non-m?

Cheers

[tstcbx4v]

Hey mate, can i ask what was involved in getting the e36 brembo caliper and 330 rears working on the e36 non-m?

Cheers

My friend left these in my garage and when i ask he said i can do whatever with it.

So i started some mod, build an adapter for front caliper since housing's different (its e38 7series brembo calipers anyway), new 230mm rotor with aluminum hub

And for rear you can use the stock 330 rotor but you have to reline handbrake shoe, i use the stock 328 rear rotor by cut all the disk off and use the center hub, make the surface thinner and cap it with 330 rotor.

[hrpkustoms]

any one in need of cross drilled and slotted brake rotors. email me at hrpkustoms@gmail.com

[n3985]

Sorry to bump an old thread but what brake lines did you all use? The original E36 ones? Will they fit onto E46 calipers?

[jagerking]

Yes, original brake lines work fine in 330 calipers. I upgraded my lines to SS when I did my 330/328 retrofit, and used the set I ordered for an E36. They worked fine.

[Chasedrk1]

I love this info! Thanks OP!

[carwiz008]

CGraff did a good bit of work here:


OK...here's the brake torques with constant line pressure, stock MC and no proportioning valves anywhere on stock E34s: (front/rear)

E34 M5: 68.8% / 31.2%
E34 535i: 67.5% / 32.5%
These cars are near 50/50, in fact I believe the 535i is perfect 50/50 static weight distribution. The brakes are very well biased indeed.

Now, if you do the brake torques at the wheels for the E36, with constant input line pressure but with it's stock MC you'll get these:
-- E36 325i standard: 68.1% / 31.9%
-- E36 328i convertible: 66.3% / 33.7%

These are some of the aftermarket ones available:
E36 Brembo Upgrade 1 front and rear (320mm fronts): 66.6% / 33.4%
E36 Brembo Upgrade 2 front and rear (335mm fronts): 67.8% / 32.2%
E36 StopTech Upgrade 1 front and rear (332mm fronts): 64.8 % / 35.2%

Personally, I feel that the StopTech one may be a bit to rearward biased.

Now, here are the E46s (discounting proportioning that the DSC unit does):
E46 323i stock: 60.8% / 39.2%
E46 325/8i stock: 60.4% / 39.6%
E46 330i stock: 60.7 % / 39.3%
(So we know that the E46s use a proportioning valve somewhere down the line in the DSC/ASC units to get at the wheel brake torques correct)

And now, for some combinations that you can put on an E36 (keeping MC and ABS units constant) (here's the brake torque at the wheels distributions):

1. E36 with E46 323i brakes front and rear: 64% / 36%
-- Too much rear brakes.
E36 with E46 325i/8i front and E46 323i rear: 65%/35%
-- Slightly too much rear brakes

2. E36 with 325/8i E46 brakes front and rear: 64% / 36%
-- Again, way too much rear brakes for the E36. Too much rear bias (while maybe wanted on track) can cause you to lock up rear brakes quicker than fronts...and perhaps lose control under braking. Granted, we have ABS....but no driver aid is a match for pure physics.

2. E36 with E46 325/8i front, E36 328iC rear: 68% / 32%
-- I feel this is a good combo. 16's fit under it too.

3. E36 with E46 330i front and rear: 66 % / 34%
-- This isn't much different than the E36 328iC set-up, but I still feel it may be just a tad too much rear biased. In any case, it's very decent, potentially cheap, but only 17's (and some 16s) fit on it.

4. E36 with E46 330i front and E46 325i/328i rear: 68% / 32%
-- This is an ideal street set-up. But again, only 17s fit.

5. E36 with E36 M3 fronts and E46 330i rears: 67% / 33%
-- Again, only 17's and some 16s fit., also ideal set-up

Now, I like a lot of stuff Zionsville's done. But here's they're set-ups:

Stage 1: E46 325i/328i fronts / E46 323i rears
Stage 2: E46 330i fronts / E46 325i/328i rears
Stage 3: M3 fronts / E46 330i rears

I'd only really recommend stage 2 and 3. Not Stage 1, as it gives slightly too much rear brake bias.

If you've got 17s, and don't plan on keeping 16s, then most any brake upgrade is ok. But if you must run 16s...you're pretty much SOL. Only #2 really works well (E46 325i/328i fronts and E36 328iC rears).

Hope this helps.

-Chris

EDIT: I corrected a mistake on the rear 330i info I had and the Zionsville set-ups. I also now include brake torques at the wheels for the E36s. Also, these set-ups ARE NOT valid for ti's or Z3's as those cars use different rear suspension trailing arms and regular E36 brakes won't fit on the rears.

[Rover 200vi]

OK...here's the brake torques with constant line pressure, stock MC and no proportioning valves anywhere on stock E34s: (front/rear)

E34 M5: 68.8% / 31.2%
E34 535i: 67.5% / 32.5%
These cars are near 50/50, in fact I believe the 535i is perfect 50/50 static weight distribution. The brakes are very well biased indeed.

Now, if you do the brake torques at the wheels for the E36, with constant input line pressure but with it's stock MC you'll get these:
-- E36 325i standard: 68.1% / 31.9%
-- E36 328i convertible: 66.3% / 33.7%

These are some of the aftermarket ones available:
E36 Brembo Upgrade 1 front and rear (320mm fronts): 66.6% / 33.4%
E36 Brembo Upgrade 2 front and rear (335mm fronts): 67.8% / 32.2%
E36 StopTech Upgrade 1 front and rear (332mm fronts): 64.8 % / 35.2%

Personally, I feel that the StopTech one may be a bit to rearward biased.

Now, here are the E46s (discounting proportioning that the DSC unit does):
E46 323i stock: 60.8% / 39.2%
E46 325/8i stock: 60.4% / 39.6%
E46 330i stock: 60.7 % / 39.3%
(So we know that the E46s use a proportioning valve somewhere down the line in the DSC/ASC units to get at the wheel brake torques correct)

And now, for some combinations that you can put on an E36 (keeping MC and ABS units constant) (here's the brake torque at the wheels distributions):

1. E36 with E46 323i brakes front and rear: 64% / 36%
-- Too much rear brakes.
E36 with E46 325i/8i front and E46 323i rear: 65%/35%
-- Slightly too much rear brakes

2. E36 with 325/8i E46 brakes front and rear: 64% / 36%
-- Again, way too much rear brakes for the E36. Too much rear bias (while maybe wanted on track) can cause you to lock up rear brakes quicker than fronts...and perhaps lose control under braking. Granted, we have ABS....but no driver aid is a match for pure physics.

2. E36 with E46 325/8i front, E36 328iC rear: 68% / 32%
-- I feel this is a good combo. 16's fit under it too.

3. E36 with E46 330i front and rear: 66 % / 34%
-- This isn't much different than the E36 328iC set-up, but I still feel it may be just a tad too much rear biased. In any case, it's very decent, potentially cheap, but only 17's (and some 16s) fit on it.

4. E36 with E46 330i front and E46 325i/328i rear: 68% / 32%
-- This is an ideal street set-up. But again, only 17s fit.

5. E36 with E36 M3 fronts and E46 330i rears: 67% / 33%
-- Again, only 17's and some 16s fit., also ideal set-up

Now, I like a lot of stuff Zionsville's done. But here's they're set-ups:

Stage 1: E46 325i/328i fronts / E46 323i rears
Stage 2: E46 330i fronts / E46 325i/328i rears
Stage 3: M3 fronts / E46 330i rears

I'd only really recommend stage 2 and 3. Not Stage 1, as it gives slightly too much rear brake bias.

If you've got 17s, and don't plan on keeping 16s, then most any brake upgrade is ok. But if you must run 16s...you're pretty much SOL. Only #2 really works well (E46 325i/328i fronts and E36 328iC rears).

Hope this helps.

-Chris

EDIT: I corrected a mistake on the rear 330i info I had and the Zionsville set-ups. I also now include brake torques at the wheels for the E36s. Also, these set-ups ARE NOT valid for ti's or Z3's as those cars use different rear suspension trailing arms and regular E36 brakes won't fit on the rears.


I changed my e36 325i rear calipers and rotors to the 328i vented type and my rears are locking before the fronts are? What went wrong?

[BKKBeemer]

I went for the E46 325/328 fronts and E36 328 convertible rear with grooved discs, Goodridge hoses and EBC Redstuff pads

Brakes are very responsive, but the EBCs seem to fade fast (and really smell) when pushed hard - I kinda wish I'd gone for the yellows. They're really dusty too.

I really appreciated this thread being posted up - some really good information included - Thank you

[AdrianE36]

I'm not sure if this was answered yet, but do the 330i rear rotors and calipers bolt right up to the E36 (328iS) rear end with out too much trouble? Or would I need to swap out suspension parts like the M3 brake conversion?

[jagerking]

I'm not sure if this was answered yet, but do the 330i rear rotors and calipers bolt right up to the E36 (328iS) rear end with out too much trouble? Or would I need to swap out suspension parts like the M3 brake conversion?
It has been, and they will not bolt up without trouble with the e-brake. The inner drum of the 330 rotors is too large for the e-brake shoes, and it's more trouble than its worth to make it work. Not to mention that is skews your braking bias in a poorer direction than just using E46 325/328 rear brakes.

[AdrianE36]

Gotcha. I'm only asking because I got the entire 330i setup as a package not knowing that I actually only needed the fronts.

[DJ Genius]

That is not entirely true.
I am running 330 brakes (discs, callipers, carriers) all around. All you need is to get parking brake kit assembly too (shoes, springs, expanding lock and etc) and you'll have front + fully functional rear brakes and parking brake. It bolts up.
And you may not need slave cylinder as some 328 and compact EURO models use the same slave cylinder as M3 (#21526775924).

[AdrianE36]

What parking brake kit exactly? Is it one that I can get from a vendor, or would I need the components from/for the 330i? I've read of numerous attempts to get the parking brake to work, but little to no success in getting it to work.

[madnod]

if i do the swap on a 328i, should i buy SS brake lines from the E36 or the E46 catalog? or are they the same?

[n3985]

anyone have issue installing E46 323/325/328 rear brakes?

Mine wouldn't fit using oem ATE 40/19 calipers onto my 328is.

With rotor on, the caliper bracket hits it, and is then 5mm "too far" from the hub mounting holes.

Rotor is confirmed by ruler 294mm by 19mm aka vented regular E46 rear rotors.

EDIT:

OK found out why

As a pro tip for anyone doing this in the future, DO NOT BUY E46 323i SEDAN OR COUPE rear brakes (convertible or touring is fine)

the caliper ATE 40/19 is shared across all non-330i E46 cars for the rear brakes

BUT the 323i sedan/coupe uses 276mm x 19mm rotors like the E36 328i convertibles and NOT the 294mm x 19mm used by the E46 325i and 328i

So while the caliper is the same the caliper BRACKET is different on E46 323i

BMW part # for 323i sedan/coupe rear caliper bracket is 34216765879 while 325/328 is 34216758134 (caliper is same for all with 34216758135 for left and 34216758136 for right)

323i sedan/coupe (only!) rear brakes

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=AN33-USA-10-2000-E46-BMW-323i&diagId=34_1013

325i (for example)

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=AN37-USA-01-2001-E46-BMW-325i&diagId=34_1013

[spyderg0d]

I found a way for the ebrake.. Use the ee36brake shoes and springs ect. How,just have to alter the shoe holding block that cast onto the arm and the shoe possibly.

- - - Updated - - -

Or if you want to make it real easy. Just weld the e46 shoes on top of 100% used e36 shoes. Obviously make sure of figment in the process.

- - - Updated - - -

And just for a update on my case. I used 330 front AND rear on my 325ic. Modified the rear dust shield and parking brake as described above. I also running the mpars. 9.5's. With 245 front 255 rear.. I find with the wheel setup land the vets weight bias, the full 330 brake setup better than stock. When I crunch the peddle on solid sticky pavement all four lock up almost identical. And almost two years later my pads have worn about 1 mm. Rotors almost unscathed for drilled and slotted. I highly recommend the full swap for any wide wheel enthusiast.

[TheKolton]

Decided to bump this thread with inputs on what I did. This is the first thread that pops up in a search for e36 to e46 brakes, so might as well add to the info here. Mods, feel free to yell at me if I'm doing it wrong.

I have a '95 325i and have installed E46 M3 front brakes and E46 330i rear brakes. Stoptech slotted rotors, Hawk HPS pads.

The balance is really nice, but I need to stop being lazy and install the E36 M3 Master Cyl. The pedal travel is a little long and a little soft. I will also end up removing the factory bias valve, and installing an aftermarket one to dial in the balance a little better.

I went M3 fronts for the extra rotor thickness, plus the calipers have the M logo cast into them lol, and they were the same price used on ebay. The E46 M caliper brackets/carriers do require machining the mounting surface down by 6.5mm(~0.25") in order to get the calliper to be centered over the rotor.

I'm running a hydraulic hand brake from my drift days, so I just ignored the drums and lost some weight, after adding a lot.

Front;
325mm x 28mm w/ 60mm Caliper Piston
Rear;
320mm x 22mm w/ 42mm Caliper Piston

All said, here's a price quick price breakdown. Not what I paid, but the common sales prices I could find.

$100, M3 Calipers w/brackets (ebay)
$100, 330 Calipers w/brackets (ebay)
$190, E36 M3 Mast. Cyl.
$85, M3 Front Hawk HPS Pads
$95, 330i Rear Hawk HPS Pads
$205, M3 Front Stoptech Slotted Rotors
$185, 330i Rear Stoptech Slotted Rotors

So about $800 all said and done. You will still need to, depending on year and model, adapt over from m10 to m12 on the master cyl, get the caliper brackets machined, and decide if you need an e-brake.

Rear Rotor Difference. Must trim or get rid of dust sheild.
588014

Front Rotor Difference.
588015

Area to be machined on the E46 M caliper brackets. I just did this on a manual mill, most machine shops could do this.
588016

[mtech325]

Bumping this thread as I think it pertains to my current situation. Recently I installed a StopTech ST-41 Touring BBK from Bimmerworld on my 1996 328is (in case anybody is wondering, stock 17x7.5 AND 17x8.5 Contour wheels with a 12mm spacer barely clear the calipers, so wheel weight placement is crucial). The kit uses standard e46 M3 sized rotors, which are 325x28mm. Ideally I’d like to upgrade the rear brakes from the stock solid 280x10mm, and I was wondering if the e46 325/325 vented rear 294x19mm would be a good fit? I purchased a 1995 M3 master cylinder in case it needs to be swapped in as well.

Additionally, I was at the junkyard the other day investigating the e46 rear calipers, and I noticed the rear brake lines are a little different than my e36. The rear of the e46 had a single rear line and had a longer fitting where they screw into the caliper. I have the inner & outer rear line setup with the metal “S” pipe in between, but some later e36’s seem to have switched to the single line per rear caliper setup? If I were to go this route, what are the proper brake lines to use?

[magnetron]

Just bought my set. Will swap the front first.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190818/7f222e09e7bc12dcfe6feb48a044e67c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190818/9d7f033356fa3c903e5e77a8db4defdd.jpg

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G973F met Tapatalk

[QUiKSR20]

I have a 95 325i Convertible 5MT, Can anyone confirm this is the best upgrade for my car from what I gathered in this thread?

Front - E46 330 Calipers / Rotors
Rear - E46 328 Calipers / Rotors ( Should I do 328i or 328i Convertible for rears? ) I have a 1995 E36 325i Convertible w/ ASC ( disabled but not sure if they got diff brakes ).

Also is it worth to get an E36 M3 Master or will that just help but not 100% needed?

Any confirmation would be greatly appreciated esp if you have first hand experience, Buying parts this week.

Thanks in advance!

[QUiKSR20]

Hey Guys, Quick Sanity check....

My car = 95 325i Vert

Just picked up the following to perform the upgrade :

Front - E46 330i Pads / Rotors / Calipers / Caliper Brackets ( do I use a stock E36 wear/pad sensor? )

Rear - E46 325i Pads / Rotors / Caliper Brackets / ( are E36 & E46 rear calipers the same exact part? )

Just trying to confirm that they are the same parts and if so its one less part for most of us to source out when upgrading our front & rear brakes.

Thanks

[spyderg0d]

E36 brake wear sensors should fit in the e46 pads.. I think e36 rear calipers are not as long. But that may depend if it was an e36 with solid rear rotor or vented. I know i used a e36 rear caliper on wifes e46 325 for a while in a pinch, but only fit because the pads were more than half way worn, and i had to use the e46 bracket to fit on the e46 rotor.

[KingJacob1995]

Sorry if I am doing this wrong, it is my first post. I have tried reading a bunch of posts on here that were made available to me after searching every combo of the words "E36 to E46 brake upgrade". I have all the 2002 330ci hardware needed for the front. I have all of the 2002 325i hardware needed for the rear. The only thing I need to know is if E36 braided steel brake lines will fit the E46 calipers. I have a pre 12/1997 E36 so I have six brake lines (two on each side in the rear). Do I need to order the E46 four line kit to fit my calipers? Or will I need to order the E36 six line kit for the E46 rears? Above it is posted that their E36 lines fit the E46 calipers. However, it is not specified if they have the six piece lines or four. Again I apologize if this is somewhere else or already answered. I see a few people above me asked the same question and I did not see an answer. I cleared over twenty pages reading almost every post that was even close to the answer I am looking for.

[spyderg0d]

Sorry if I am doing this wrong, it is my first post. I have tried reading a bunch of posts on here that were made available to me after searching every combo of the words "E36 to E46 brake upgrade". I have all the 2002 330ci hardware needed for the front. I have all of the 2002 325i hardware needed for the rear. The only thing I need to know is if E36 braided steel brake lines will fit the E46 calipers. I have a pre 12/1997 E36 so I have six brake lines (two on each side in the rear). Do I need to order the E46 four line kit to fit my calipers? Or will I need to order the E36 six line kit for the E46 rears? Above it is posted that their E36 lines fit the E46 calipers. However, it is not specified if they have the six piece lines or four. Again I apologize if this is somewhere else or already answered. I see a few people above me asked the same question and I did not see an answer. I cleared over twenty pages reading almost every post that was even close to the answer I am looking for.

Yes. E36 and e46 take the same threaded fitting. If I'm not mistaken, even modern f 3 series take the same threaded fitting. I know for a fact e90 does after e46 as I've test fitted them.

[L8Braker35]

Anyone have an issue with rear caliper brackets, going from solid to vented? I acquired some used calipers/brackets, purportedly from an E46 325, and the brackets are correct for the rotor diameter, but are not offset properly for the vented rotors. Difference appears to be about 10mm. Caliper is fine. Is it possible I was sold 330 rears?

[takasauras]

Bumping this thread because I just found out that the BBS style 5s 17" interfere with the e46 330 brake calipers. However, the DS2s fit with no interference and rotate freely.

[spyderg0d]

Bumping this thread because I just found out that the BBS style 5s 17" interfere with the e46 330 brake calipers. However, the DS2s fit with no interference and rotate freely.

My 17" style 5s fit just fine over my e46 330 brakes.