Bleeding clutch master cyl and slave...order?

[blackstarpower]

I just finished replacing the clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder. Whata is the order that you bleed?

[hard2explain18]

RR/LR/RF/LF and then slave cylinder for clutch.

Are you using a pressure ball or bleeding manually? Both methods use the same sequence but the pressure ball is the best $40 I've spent in a long time.

[blackstarpower]

OK thanks. Just reg. Does the car need to be running?

[hard2explain18]

No the car doesn't need to be running. Good Luck.

[blackstarpower]

Just to clarify. You bleed the brakes for the clutch? Little confused...

[hard2explain18]

aren't they all on the same system? Do you only have 1 reservoir for fluid? My car has the brakes and clutch on the same system. So when i replace my fluid every year, I have to bleed the brakes and the clutch in the order posted above. Now my toyota truck has a separate system for the clutch and brakes. Your car should have the same system as mine. Hope this helps.

[blackstarpower]

Yes, it does. I am sure I have the same system as you. So you bleed the clutch by pushing the clutch pedal and doing it in the order as posted above? Then you go through again and do it by pushing the brake pedal? I think if you could just type out the exact process to bleed the clutch system that would help me a lot. I did a search, but everybody does it so very differently. I am not going to be using any type of pressurized vacuum bleeder, just a buddy system.

[bmwbachelor]

You do not need to bleed your brakes since it is the clutch lines you have replaced. The container is used for both, but the brakes feed from a lower point for safety reasons. Do a search and there is ALOT of info and is how I learned to do mine. It is time consuming but definately a do-it-yourself project.

[blackstarpower]

Yea, I did a search and researched a for about 2 hours. Everyone does it differently. Just looking for a good way to bleed the clutch with the buddy system. Is all that I do for this, is just open the clutch slave cylinder bleeder and bleed normally?

[blackstarpower]

Bump :(

[blackstarpower]

The hydraulic clutch uses the rear chamber of the brake fluid reservoir, which is only about 1" wide (measured front to back). There is a divider between the clutch chamber and the brake chambers so, in the event of a hydraulic leak in the clutch, you don't also loose your brakes. Even though the reservoir looks full, it's likely you've drained the rear chamber. Use a quality DOT 4 brake fluid such as ATE TYP 200 or Motul 600 and fill the reservoir, making sure the fluid flows over the divider into the rear chamber.

If you have a pressure bleeder, hook it up to the reservoir and adjust the pressure to 20-25 psi. Much more than 30 psi and you risk blowing the reservoir apart and that would make quite a mess! Brake fluid is not good for painted surfaces.
With your pressure bleeder set at 20-25 psi, crawl back under the car with a 7mm box end wrench and a plastic tube or a brake bleeder catch bottle. Remove the rubber cap from the clutch slave cylinder's bleed screw and place the wrench over the end, then attach the plastic tube to the nipple. Turn the wrench about 1/4 turn and hold it for about 4 to 5 seconds as the air bubbles are purged from the system. Do not hold the bleed screw open much longer or you'll run the reservoir dry.
If you don't have a pressure bleeder, then you'll have to do this with an assistant. It will take longer, especially if you've fully emptied the reservoir and have introduced air into the system while swapping out the CDV. As before, fill the reservoir to the very top. Get under the car and follow the same procedure described in the paragraph above, except this time you'll have an assistant push the clutch pedal to the floor repeatedly. If there is air in the system, the pedal will drop uselessly to the floor and your assistant will need to reach down and pump it up and down with his/her hand. Open the bleeder screw while your assistant is pushing down and close it while he is lifting the pedal up. Frequently, your assistant should stop and check the fluid level. Keep testing the clutch pedal to see if it has returned to full firmness. Once the clutch pedal feels normal, tighten the bleed screw and replace the rubber cap.
Dry the fluid off the CDV and hydraulic lines and test for leaks by having your assistant push the clutch pedal repeatedly. If you have a pressure bleeder, simply leave it set at 20 psi and watch for leaks around the base of the CDV or the base of the hydraulic fitting.

[doverby]

RR/LR/RF/LF and then slave cylinder for clutch.

Are you using a pressure ball or bleeding manually? Both methods use the same sequence but the pressure ball is the best $40 I've spent in a long time.

could you provide a link, or some info on how to find this "pressure ball"? I'm about to bleed my clutch system, and it sounds like a handy tool.

[FernandoSensano]

Try This It's Easier! Make Sure Your Reservior Is Full, Get Under The Car And Lossen And Back Off The Two Nuts Holding On The Slave Cyclinder (do Not Completely Take Off The Cyl You Should Have About An Inch Of Travel). Push The Slave Cyl In And Out Actuating The Rod. This Will Reduce The Time You Have To Pump It On The Pedal. Continue Until You Feel The Pressure Build Up And Then Have Your Buddy Pump The Pedal And Then Bleed It.
What This Does Is Actualy Actuate The Rod Which Draws The Fluid Down To The Slave Cylinder Instead Of Pushing The Fluid And Air To It Which Can Take A While.

[doverby]

Ok, I'll try that! Thanks for the input!