help on sub and amp install in E39 540i with DSP?

[supark]

Hey guys - I was wondering if any of you can lend some insight to my questions on installing a sub and amp to my E39 540i with DSP - below is the link to my original post on the car/stereo forum.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=462002

Thanks!
Sung

[wheresthewagons]

I just did an amp and sub install in a 540 touring. It was the easiest sub install i have ever done.

Use the speaker level inputs for your amp. The reason your amp has 2 inputs even though it is mono, is because car stereo are stereo (left and right channel). The bass level is not equal in both channels so the amp takes the signal from both and amplifies it to one speaker. You should use both.

There should be four wires on the plug into your dsp subs. It is two sets of pos and neg. Those are the wires you will use to get the speaker level signal for your amp. Just us one for the right channel and one for the left. It doesnt matter which goes where.

The radio antenna wire you are talking about should be SOLID white. It is the only all white wire on the plug. Tap into that for your amp on power.

I think that solves your issues... let me know if you have anymore questions.

[supark]

Great! so I don't need a LOC with this setup then? If not, than do you know what are the pros/cons of doing it this way as opposed to using a a LOC and just plugging into the line level input of the amp? Hope you don't mind - but I'm going to copy your response onto my original thread on the car stereo subforum so others who are similarly stereo challenged can benefit - thanks again.

[NCroadracer]

I just did a sub install in my 02 5......Easiest damn install i've ever done too.
Here's the pinout designations. They should be the same for 97 models.

2000 DSP Premium Sound connector information The pinouts for the 15 pin connector are:
PIN - CONNECTION
1- Sub 1 +
2- Sub 2 +
3- LH Rear loudspeaker + (Touring LH rear speaker ground)
4- Radio on/antenna signal
5- RH rear loudspeaker + (Touring RH rear +)
6- Sub 4 -
7- Sub 3 -
8- Terminal 30 connects to Fuse 56
9- Sub 1 -
10- Sub 2 -
11- Touring LH rear +
12- Touring RH rear -
13- Sub 4 +
14- Sub 3 +
15- Terminal 31 connects to Ground Point

The pinouts for the 18 pin connector are:
PIN - CONNECTION
1- Not used
2- Low freq. negative (-) signal - Transceiver/charging electronics
3- Not used
4- Not used
5- I-bus Signal Line - Splice X18344
6- Not used
7- Not used
8- RH front speaker - Connects to Radio
9- LH front speaker - Connects to Radio
10-Not used
11 Low freq. voltage (+) signal - Transceiver/charging electronics
12-Not used
13-Telephone mute signal - Transceiver/charging electronics
14-Not used
15-Telephone ON signal - Transceiver/charging electronics
16-Not used
17-RH front speaker + - Connects to Radio
18-LH front speaker + - Connects to Radio The pinouts for the 26 pin connector are:
PIN - CONNECTION
1- LH front woofer +
2- LH front woofer -
3- Not used
4- RH front mid-range -
5- LH front mid-range +
6- Not used
7- Not used
8- Not used
9- RH front mid-range +
10-LH front mid-range -
11-Right rear mid-range speaker/tweeter +
12-RH front tweeter +
13-RH front woofer +
14-LH front tweeter +
15 LH front tweeter -
16-Left rear mid-range speaker/tweeter -
17-Not used
18-Not used
19-Left rear mid-range speaker/tweeter +
20-Not used
21-Not used
22-Not used
23-Not used
24-Right rear mid-range speaker/tweeter -
25-RH front tweeter -
26 RH front woofer -

[wheresthewagons]

Great! so I don't need a LOC with this setup then? If not, than do you know what are the pros/cons of doing it this way as opposed to using a a LOC and just plugging into the line level input of the amp? Hope you don't mind - but I'm going to copy your response onto my original thread on the car stereo subforum so others who are similarly stereo challenged can benefit - thanks again.

If your amp has a speaker level(high) input it pretty much has a built in LOC. A lot of higher end amps do not have high inputs so you are forced to use a loc.

Once a signal is amplified the sound wave is slightly distorted. The level of distortion is proportionate to the amount of amplification. Depending on how good your amplifier is this level varies. If you think about it. the signal is amplified from the cars stock amp then squashed (by the loc or the high input on your amp) and then amplified again by your aftermarket amp.

Either way you are in a lose lose situation, but this is at a level that most people would not be able to tell. There are so many variables to look at to weigh out the pros and cons. It depends on the original signal, the loc, the amp etc. Different situations, different pros and cons.

Feel free to repost my message above. Good luck!

[supark]

ok - just did the install. It was so easy I'm a little ashamed that I asked for help. My ride's got a nice bump now - just have to fine tune the thing now because it's shaking the hell out of my trunk. I'm still really happy with a setup I've transplanted from a 2nd gen Saab 900s to an E36 325is to my current 540i. I just have a 700w monoblock alpine amp running a DVC alpine type S 12" in a ported cab powerful, cheap, sounds good and extremely durable. The amp is a freakin tank - I've had it for about 2 years now and it's still running strong.

I'm trying to figure out the best place to mount the amp - I like the idea of mounting it on the access door for the battery, but I'm concerned whether it's strong enough. Opinions on places to hang the amp?

[deepdish20s]

I'm trying to figure out the best place to mount the amp - I like the idea of mounting it on the access door for the battery, but I'm concerned whether it's strong enough. Opinions on places to hang the amp?


I mounted my JL Audio 250/1 on that door. It looks very cool and tucks the amp away nicely. It is more than strong enough to hold the weight of my amp.

[wheresthewagons]

congrats.:redspot The dsp system sounds so much better with some real subs.
The battery compartment is where i mounted my amp. I dont know the size comparison between the wagon and sedan, but im sure thats the best spot to hide it.

[supark]

So for the benefit of other stereo challenged bimmer owners out there, I've noted the wires I used below for my install:

15-pin wire:
pin 1: sub 1 (+) blue/white stripe
pin 4: stereo on/antenna white/brown stripe
pin 6: sub 4 (-) yellow/brown stripe
pin 9: sub 1 (-) blue/brown stripe
pin 13: sub 4 (+) yellow/white stripe

[supark]

Also - in terms of tuning the system as a whole, have any of you guys installed crossovers in the deck mount subs and tuned the aftermarket sub take care of a certain range of freqs?

I've set the gain on my amp to low for the moment with the LP filter on 50 hertz. If I roll the the LP filter anywhere past around 70 hertz, it pushes the subwoofer in an odd way, making it rattle.

Also, would you guys suggest setting the LOC lower and using the gain on the amp to control volume?

[wheresthewagons]

Also - in terms of tuning the system as a whole, have any of you guys installed crossovers in the deck mount subs and tuned the aftermarket sub take care of a certain range of freqs?

I've set the gain on my amp to low for the moment with the LP filter on 50 hertz. If I roll the the LP filter anywhere past around 70 hertz, it pushes the subwoofer in an odd way, making it rattle.

Also, would you guys suggest setting the LOC lower and using the gain on the amp to control volume?

Are you running the stock sub with your new setup? Did you end up using a LOC with your system?

The stock sub signal has a crossover that is usally set at 50hz. So no matter what you change your amp to the signal is already a low pass signal.

[supark]

Are you running the stock sub with your new setup? Did you end up using a LOC with your system?

The stock sub signal has a crossover that is usally set at 50hz. So no matter what you change your amp to the signal is already a low pass signal.

I ended up using a PAC SNI-35 LOC (2-channel adjustable). It was all they had at cartoys and the price was right.

I actually had a 12" DVC Alpine type S sub from my old ride so I just plugged that in.

I'm getting some clipping with the current setting - especially when I adjust the low pass filter to anything around 65-70 hertz. It seems a little meatier when I turn the lp filter to around there - so if the stock sub signal is already set at 50hz, I'm not sure why it sounds "better" to me there. When I adjust the signal down to 50hz on the amp, it sounds a little muddy.

All in all though, I'm extremely happy with the setup - enough bass to shake my chest.

[NY550i]

Is anyone else having the same problem as me?

I got my subwoofers and amp installed and im running the stock DSP head unit.

My problem is when i crank up the volume on my radio the bass like almost disapears and i hear words mostly and when the volume is averge to low i get tons of bass?

[supark]

Is anyone else having the same problem as me?

I got my subwoofers and amp installed and im running the stock DSP head unit.

My problem is when i crank up the volume on my radio the bass like almost disapears and i hear words mostly and when the volume is averge to low i get tons of bass?

Sounds like the subwoofer amp you added is clipping and is shutting down when you crank it up. My amp did the same thing when I cranked up Method Man - the bass would cut out to only the rear deck subs when I cranked it up.

If this is the case, you want to fine tune your settings so the loudest signal you run on your radio isn't distorting/clipping your sub amp. It's taking some doing for me - I'm not really done yet either.

I found on my Alpine MRP-M350, setting the low pass to about 55 hertz and giving it a bit over nominal gain gets a decent punch. I'm still hearing a bit of distortion on the sub though... so I need to do some more finetuning.

[wheresthewagons]

Sorry, i meant are you running the stock sub as well as your new ones off the same signal?

[supark]

Sorry, i meant are you running the stock sub as well as your new ones off the same signal?

yeah I just tapped into subs 1 and 4 for a left and right signal to go into the LOC.

[wheresthewagons]

Hmm... im thinking it could be one of two things.
With both the old and new subs running of the same signal; i can see that causing some issues with speaker impedence. Try disconnecting your old sub box and see if you still have the issue.

As you get loud, your amp can be cutting out because it isnt getting enough power. Check and see if your amp is shutting off or cutting out. If it is shutting off then you have a power issue. make sure you are testing with your car running. You could have a bad battery and or alternator.

Thats all i can think of so far.