Tint Removal -- The Aftermath (HELP!)

[Ben Carufel]

Well, I had a bit of trouble taking off the tint on my '89 325i today.

I used the spray-ammonia-on-back-window-then-cover-with-garbage-bag-and-let-sit-for-an-hour method...but the tint came off in lines. It's hard to explain with my brain being full of these fun ammonia fumes (:() but basically the tint "broke" whenever it hit a defroster line. I was able to get less than half of it off...all that's left is the second, lighter layer of tint, but apparently I'm screwed as people have told me that this layer won't come off unless it comes off with the first layer.

So, is there anything I can do to get the rest of the tint off and save the defroster lines? Not all of them work but I think the window would be kinda funky without them back there anyhow.

I don't wanna drive the car too much with the half-assed rear tint on because, frankly, it looks like crap, so please lemme know what you guys have done in this situation (if you've been in this situation) ASAP. :D

Thanks for the help...I'm going to go do the driver's side rear quarter window now...

[Hyperion]

What the hell have you done...:confused:

Razor blade no work?

[IslandS62]

ewww...sounds like a real mess. I have never heard of the ammonia and garbage bag method, every tint I ever removed came right off in sheets. I am not surprised at the rear though. Sometimes tinters will cut the tint at the defroster lines. I don't know exactly why they do this but they did it on my 240Z. I know you are trying to save the defroster by not razoring, so I think its time to call a Pro. Tinters are usually expert removers as well.

[dysphunxion]

Step up to a stronger solvent? If your father/friend/Jim has a garage full of crap take some tint and test various products on it, which ever one eats it alive is your stuff. Also try Goof Off or Castrol Super clean in the purple spray bottle.

Good luck, and all else fails take it to a pro......

[NY98M3]

Originally posted by IslandS52
Sometimes tinters will cut the tint at the defroster lines. I don't know exactly why they do this but they did it on my 240Z. I know you are trying to save the defroster by not razoring, so I think its time to call a Pro. Tinters are usually expert removers as well.

Tinters make the cut on the defoster lines so you dont see where the line is....

[Bart C]

The last time I removed auto tint, I used no sprays or ammonia. I did take two people though. One on the inside pulling the tint and the second on the outside with a heat gun, blowing at the point where the tint was peeling from the glass.

[Ben Carufel]

Hmm...someone suggested I use a hair dryer...:dunno

I think I'm going to try the hair dryer tomorrow, then take it to a pro if it doesn't work. Or wait, would acetone eat that sh*t right up? I mean, it's just the flimsy, light, bottom thin tint film thats left...

[jsp98m3]

Ben,

Acetone?

Is this worth death? Give it to someone who is trained.

[Ben Carufel]

Originally posted by jsp98m3
Ben,

Acetone?

Is this worth death? Give it to someone who is trained.

Aww, but acetone is fun! :D

Ok, yeah, if the hair dryer doesn't work I guess I'll take it somewhere and have it done. I inhaled enough ammonia today to hold me over for a good long while.

Jim, are you going to have some time one of these days before October to help me convert the left fog to H7? I'm going to order a new assembly after I get a car cover and the Corbeau's from Ed. Oh, and do I have to order the whole thing or can I just get the glass or what? It wasn't too clear on your website...or maybe the ammonia's still working :rolleyes:

You should see it now. The rear quarter windows are nice and clear, but the back looks nice 'n ghetto, and there is: no rear deck, no rear seat back, no rear seat bottom, no passenger seat, no spare tire, and no spare tire cover. They all came out for a good simple greening tomorrow, along with the driver's seat at the same time. Then I'll steam clean the 'ol carpets and be ready to have the Corbeau's in sometime in the next 3 weeks when I can afford them.

I'm thinking of taking out the tar in the trunk and putting Dynamat Extreme in. Any thoughts people?

*watches thread go off-topic*

[DOO]

hair dryer ain't hot enough. i used a heat gun from the home depot. tint slid off real nice!

[jsp98m3]

Ben,

I am going to warn you in all seriousness.

Hairdryer motors generate sparks internally. If you fill the car with acetone fumes and don't kill yourself from that, you might make a deadly mistake with the hairdryer.

Don't even think about it.

Now, if you can't stand the driver's side fog, you will have to buy a new one. No glass replacement alone exists to my knowledge. It isn't cheap, I think it is about $90.

I should be able to so it with you any weekday after 6pm. Don't bring that tint job over here for me though. I take those high labor, low cost jobs to pros.

[Ben Carufel]

No, I didn't mean acetone AND a hair dryer at the same time. I just meant the hair dryer alone...

How much are heat guns at Home Depot? Before I drive over there and shell out the bucks...I mean, this is probably no more than an hour for a tint pro...

Anyone have any good recommendations for tint shops in San Diego?

[Ben Carufel]

Originally posted by dysphunxion
Step up to a stronger solvent? If your father/friend/Jim has a garage full of crap take some tint and test various products on it, which ever one eats it alive is your stuff. Also try Goof Off or Castrol Super clean in the purple spray bottle.

Good luck, and all else fails take it to a pro......

Oh, and Dys, I am the master of the garage. He asks me where things are and if he can borrow my detailing equipment :D...

I'll probably just take it to a pro on Monday or Tuesday.

[Stockman]

Know how much I was quoted to remove tint from all 7 windows?
2 front
2 side
2 side small windows
1 rear

$50.
and this was from some expensive place... Just let someone who knows what they are doing finish it

[Ben Carufel]

Wow. Yeah, I think pro must be the way to go. Still looking for a good shop recommendation in San Diego...

[r6e36]

Ben,
Sound like you got the tint film off and just have the layer of adhesive on the glass. If that is the case you can just uses some Go Gone adhesive remover to clean up the glass.

[BS05ZHP]

is Brillo pads without the soap. Works perfect and does not scratch the glass.

I use the Gila tint (Pep Boys Wally World cheapo stuff) removal spray in conjunction with the Brillo.

Good luck

[Ben Carufel]

The tint is still there partially. The inner, thinner, lighter layer is there but the outer, thicker, darker layer is gone...

I'm going to take it in. I just don't feel like messing around with it anymore.

[Alvin]

Tint devil in miramar did a really good job taking my fading tint off and putting new tint on. Signed a disclaimer saying i wouldn't sue if my defroster stopped working, but they still do. La jolla audio does tint, but it's going to be expensive. Just hope they don't charge you more since you started the job and made it harder for them to finish.

[Ben Carufel]

Yeah, I was thinking they might do that. I hope they have some secret way to get it off. :dunno

Good to know La Jolla audio does it. If I can't get over to Tint Devil tomorrow or Tuesday maybe I'll just take it there. Both places are 3 miles or so from my house...

[Cobra Jet]

The easiest way to remove tint:

1) start at one edge and peel the tint film completely off the window - DO NOT WET

2) after film is removed from window, all that is remaining is the actual tint adhesive or glue. Once the colored film is removed, the windows will look either clear, or like there is smears on them, depends on how much glue was used and what brand tint was on windows and length of time it was on the window.

3) Get an empty glass cleaner bottle that has a "spray type" head on it. Mix up a warm solution of soap and water in a spray bottle. (Dawn dish detergent works best with warm water). Spray the window with the solution and then use a flat edge razor blade to "shave" the adhesive off. Shaving it in one direction (either up or down, your preference) works best. Have a paper towel in your other hand to wipe the blade with the goop on so you have a clean blade each pass. Repeat until all adhesive is off the window.

4) Use your favorite glass cleaner to clean the windows after all tint/adhesive has been removed 100%.

The above is the easiest way and quickest way to remove window tint - trust me... I've done it plently of times with no problems and it really cuts down on having a big mess and using multiple chemicals that can damage or discolor interior parts!
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If tint was removed from a rear window with defroster lines and it was not done correctly - the defroster lines will remain on the window - BUT - the actual copper coating over the etched line is what actually comes off on the tint film... The window will still appear the same, but of course when you go to use your defrosters they will not work.

Defroster lines are etched into the glass and there is a copper overlay on each line to make a circuit.

The slightest cut in any defroster line renders it useless.

The best way to see what defroster lines are bad is to sit on the back seat, and look into the rear window on a nice day. With the daylight shining in from the outside, you look over each line. With the daylight hitting the lines, you will be able to see where the cut is, or where the copper coating was removed.

FIX for defroster lines:

You can by the defroster line grid liquid fix at most auto Parts stores. I know for a fact Ford sold it too - $16.00 for a bottle smaller than a chapstick stick.

Easy way to fix inoperable defroster lines:
(NOTE: this method only works best on lines that have cuts in them. If an entire line was removed, this method may still work, but cannot be guaranteed to work very well).

Again you will want to do this on a nice day when the sun is out so you can see your busted/cut lines.

Use Scotch tape (it's easy to remove from the glass and seals very well when applying). Take tape and place it on each side of the broken defroster line as close as you can get to the actual line. You want to mask each side of the broken line to avoid any of the fix liquid from seaping onto the glass, or making the line look ugly afterwards. Make sure that the tape is "sealed" on both sides of the line to prevent any leakage of the fix fluid.

Apply the fix fluid to the actual line (the tape will be on each side of the line). If you get some on the tape, don't worry. After applying the fix solution, leave it sit for about 20 minutes or so to let it thoroughly dry. After that time, carefully remove the tape from the glass. If you were successful in applying the fix liquid, your broken defroster line(s) will now work. From the outside of the car, it will appear as if nothing was done to the lines (as long as your masking job with the tape was good and clean).

I've fixed defroster lines before, and as I said, if the stuff is applied correctly, it works forever.

Think of the rear defroster lines as a circuit board. When the copper overlay is disturbed, the circuit is broken to that line. The current cannot "jump" the cut in the line. The line no longer works until it has been repaired. Sometimes you can have numerous "cuts" in the line and be able to fix it. If an entire line has been completely peeled off due to tint film removal, have fun trying to repair a line that is almost completely gone.... it's very hard.

Now, if only the manufacturers would make a rear window where the defroster grid lines are integrated into the glass (below the glass surface), it would solve the whole problem of removing the defroster lines when removing tint film... :D