Suspension (Finally) Installed

[TheBestCow]

Whew! What a week! For those who don't know...

I noticed sometime during the winter that everytime I went over a speed bump with the passenger window down, I could hear a squeak. Couldn't figure out what it was. However, with 130k+ on the car, and with the persuasion of some of you on this board, I decided I might as well upgrade my springs/shocks/struts.

I checked the Rear Shock Mounts (RSMs) to make sure they weren't the culprit. They weren't, but looked pretty worn. So I called up TC Kline Racing and Ground Control, and soon enough the UPS man brought me Koni Single Adjustable Struts/Shocks and H&R Sport Springs, along with Ground Control's Street/Track RSMs.

I decided early on that if I could do this myself, I would. Save $300 from getting someone else to install them, plus the satisfaction at having done it myself. I have a friend who has a nicely modified 1998 (i think) F-150. He's got a trillion tools and said he would help me. We started Thursday. Took us eight hours, but got the job done. However, we didn't re-use the stock dustcovers/bumpstops, nor did we add the washers to the shock that keep it from fulling compressing and adjusting itself (they adjust for firmer/softer setting for the uneducated). Hmm.

Test drive... sorta rough, sorta loud. Obviously because of the missing parts. At this point I'd like to thank Jay - LUNI2NZ, Chris - bimmer95, Aaron - Oxcart 1, and Brian - BMLRacer. I was confused on cutting the front bumpstops, and wanted to check to make sure I was doing everything correct. I IMed them several times in between running to the garage and taking photos so they could see I was doing everything correctly. They were invaluable help and made things A LOT easier on me. Thanks guys!

So I tried to do the fronts alone (with the help of my parents) Sunday. Got the front left, then they got tired. Friend comes back, we get everything fixed up in the front. I stupidly cut one of the rear bumpstops because I couldn't get either of them to slide down on the shock shaft. I've got some new covers/stops on order with the dealership, should be here later this week.

Test drive Monday - Ah, nice and quiet. Wait, what's that noise. Thump, thump thump.. thump thump thump. D'OH! I meant to write down and remind myself to make sure the wheel lugs were tight. Oops. At least I was just going around the neighborhood! We had only hand tightened them. So... tightened them down. All better.

Car handles beautifully. I'm taking corners 10+ mph faster than I used to be able to. So sweet! Getting an alignment tomorrow, and will install the rear bumpstops/dustcovers whenever I get the parts (hopefully before the 21st- that's when I leave for college).

Thanks for all the support everyone!

[Preppy]

And the pictures are where? :confused:

Good job dude :)

[ms318is]

Congratulations! :clap: :clap: :clap:

I remember my first "big" DIY project - rebuilding the small block in my '65 Ford. Did not go as originally planned, but I sure learned a LOT! And in the end, it came out perfectly.

Most importantly, it taught me that I was intelligent enough to overcome ANY obstacles or surprises! Soliciting help from experienced folks is a very intelligent choice...

Again, congratulations, and enjoy!

[TheBestCow]

Haha Chris... pics will be coming soon enough :)

And if I missed anyone who happened to help out on one of the several threads I posted, my mistake!

[snk328is]

TheBestCow, good job man! :buttrock

I, like you until now, have never done a suspension swap job. I'm going to be doing the *exact* same upgrade (Koni SA, HR Sport), hopefully within the next few weeks. I'm looking forward to it, but I'm also a little nervous. I hope to have the help of a friend who has done a lot of work on cars.

I've trolled the boards for information on suspension swaps and have learned a great deal, but I still have a few questions that I either missed or didn't see answered.

Did you have to compress the springs, or were they short enough to fit without compression?

I've seen a few write-ups where the DIY-er had trouble getting a few bolts off, namely, the ones holding the struts onto the control arm. Did you have to resort to using air tools, or were you able to muscle it off? The reason I ask is because I'm not sure that I can get access to air tools...

What kind of fluids/lubes/oils/etc. did you need/use? So far I recall from other posts that I would need Locktite Red and penetrating oil. Anything else?

Finally, I understand that I'll probably want to get a few spare bolts, etc. Did you get these from the dealer?

Sorry for the 20-questions post. Once again, congrats! And I hope to join your ranks soon with my own suspension upgrade...

[TheBestCow]

snk328is- No problem! One of the benefits of this board is the question and answering... I got help and will gladly help you out.

I was nervous too. I'll get some pics of the tools I bought at Sears that I used to tackle the front left while my friend wasn't available. All Craftsman - so I can take them back in 10 years and get new ones if need be. I bought a 1/2" drive breaker bar (officially known as a "Flex T bar")... more leverage = easier to take those factory red loctite bolts out! Also bought a 1/2" drive rachet, and a socket set (9-19mm). You will also need a 22mm socket (1/2" drive) and some sort of other 18mm bolt. I'll get to that in a minute.

We muscled every bolt off - granted, it was difficult and took us obviously longer than air tools would have, but we're on a restricted budget here!

All we used was Red Loctite and WD-40. Spray the WD-40 onto the three bolts holding the strut to the rotor and let it soak for a good hour; extremely helpful. We didn't use any spare bolts and at no point did I think we were going to break one.





Here are the write-ups I used:
Bernman's Excellent Adventure (http://bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3476)
Logun.com (http://www.logun.org/suspension.htm)
BMW-m.net's Extensive 20+ page Adobe PDF Coilover Install - good for pics (http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/H&R%20COILOVER%20INSTALL%202.0.pdf)
and the one I found the most helpful (due to the pics and he was doing almost exactly what I was doing) UD///M's Write-Up (http://home.earthlink.net/~r_tech/cars/automotive.html)

Let me point out the places where the bolts are -- pics courtesy of UD///M's writeup...
http://home.earthlink.net/~r_tech/cars/images/suspension/frontstrut.jpg
See at the bottom of the strut, there are three holes. The two bolts on the side will be the red loctite bolts on your old strut. The middle hole is where a bolt on the rotor goes onto the strut (I think that's where it comes from).

If you look above this middle hole you can see another area a few inches above it. This is the third bolt. Mine did not have loctite on it (if I remember correctly), but has the bolt and a washer on one side, and then a nut and washer on the other side. This is where you will need the second 18mm socket. Use your two rachets at the same time on the nut and bolt sides to loosen this one. When you take the bolts out the strut may be "stuck" to the rotor (i.e. nothing is holding it in place other than the fact it has been there forever and it's accustomed to being there). On one side we had to take a screwdriver and a hammer to get in between the lower bolts. But watch out - once it goes, it will drop (assuming you've loosened the top 3 13mm bolts). Make SURE you have someone there to support the rotor. Secure it with rope - REALLY WELL. If you put too much stress on the brake line you are screwed.

One thing I noticed, that on several of the write ups when they were using the 22mm socket on the top strut nut, another tool was needed to hold the strut in place. All we did was hold the strut/shock body with our hands and loosen with the 22mm. No extra special tools needed. Also, don't remove the brake caliper - that's nonsense. Make sure you get a McPherson Strut Compressor from your local tool store. It has to be for McPherson. And if you can, get a one piece unit that uses one nut to compress. I got one from sears that is two seperate compressors.. they get the job done but the one nut would've been nicer.

Wow this was a long response. :) *hopes all the image and url tags work*

[snk328is]

Awesome!

I've read through some of the links you posted, but the UD//M link is definitely a good one I've never seen!

I've bookmarked this thread so I could refer back to it for future reference. Thanks for answering my Q's.

Now I'm going to be busy for the next few hours reading through the goldmine of information. :)

Thanks for the quick and very informative reply!

[TheBestCow]

Oh yea - do give the loctite time to due it's stuff. I didn't buy the Loctite Brand stuff... Sears nor Advance Auto Parts had it. Advance Auto Parts did have something JUST like it, even in red and blue. Instructions on the back said give it at least 15 minutes to initially set, 3 hours for full strength (and full strength can supposedly wishstand 3000 psi).

And as I said in my first post in the thread - do make sure you tighten the wheel lugs! Use wheel chocks, jack stands... be safe! Nothing is worth dying for carwise!

Good luck!

[snk328is]

Yep, safety is always a priority. I have a hydraulic jack and jack stands so I've already crawled underneath to "scope things out". I gotta admit, I'd never been under a car before so it was a little scary at first. I kept imagining myself getting pinned underneath the chassis with no way to get out (my car has the sport suspension so it's a tad lower than non-sport). After the Konis/HR sport goes in though, I'll be impaled by under-chassis components if the car ever falls on me! :) But that won't happen because the jack stands are rock solid.

I was pondering whether I need new RSMs (I checked 'em out the other day and they looked like they were in pretty damn good shape for a 70K mile car). Seeing as the E46 convertible RSMs are so cheap, I'm thinking of picking some up at the local indy Bimmer shop. I thought about the GC ones but I thought I'd save the extra $30 for the 22mm wrench. I bought a 122-piece Craftsman mechanic tool set but the biggest socket in the set is a 21mm, D'oh!

Are you going to post the pics you took during the job? Please? :D

[TheBestCow]

I didn't take any during the job, sorry! I meant pics of just it being lower!

If you go the E46 route, you could also get Z3 Reinforcement plates. These are mentioned on the Bmw-m.net write up. I personally like the GC ones because you don't have to -ever- remove the trunk lining again (thank God!). You can remove the shock from the wheel well.. it's so nice! Plus they are life time guarenteed!

[snk328is]

You know, I might end up with the GC's afterall. I just called a local dealer and they quoted me $83.40 *before* tax! D'oh! I might as well pay the extra $10 and get a quality piece.

Now let's see that before/after pic! :D

[Bratik]

Originally posted by TheBestCow
I was confused on cutting the front bumpstops, and wanted to check to make sure I was doing everything correct. I IMed them several times in between running to the garage and taking photos so they could see I was doing everything correctly. They were invaluable help and made things A LOT easier on me. Thanks guys!

So

I am getting ready to install almost the same set up (Eibach Prokit) next week. I have a question for you: How much(if at all) did you have cut down Bump Stops on the front and rear? If you have a pics of how they should look, it would be very helpful.

Thanks,
Paul

[TheBestCow]

Bratik - You cut the fronts at the first groove down from the top. See my thread where I asked the same thing here (http://bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=42725). There is no need to cut the rears.

Okay Okay I'm going to go out and take the pics now... she's not been washed yet though! :)

[WJones]

Originally posted by Bratik


I am getting ready to install almost the same set up (Eibach Prokit) next week. I have a question for you: How much(if at all) did you have cut down Bump Stops on the front and rear? If you have a pics of how they should look, it would be very helpful.

Thanks,
Paul

Doesn't the Eibach pro-kit system come with new bumpstops? They are already shorter than stock.

[Bratik]

Thanks TheBestCow,
Your other post was very helpful.
I just called Eibach and the technician told me not to cut bump stops:dunno When I'll take everything a part I'll do some measurements and will make a decision on cutting or not.

[bimmer95]

Originally posted by WJones
[BDoesn't the Eibach pro-kit system come with new bumpstops?[/B]
No they don't.

As far as disconnecting the struts from the kingpins, loosen up all three bolts, knock the one with the nut on it loose with a hammer if it's jambed in to place. Thread the nut on the one bolt finger tight and then pry the bottom of the strut away from the kingpin. When it breaks free, the top bolt/nut will keep the kingpin/caliper/rotor combo from dropping.

The top nut on the strut is recessed in to the strut bearing. You have to use a 22mm SOCKET, not a wrench, to remove.

Use this project as an excuse to buy an air compressor and an air impact. It makes the job WAY easier. If anyone asked me to do the job without air tools I would laugh in their face :biglaughb

[snk328is]

Although I would LOVE to own an air compressor and impact wrench, the project budget does not allow that luxury. I need a workout anyway... ;)

I'm going to rent a strut spring compressor free from Autozone and save myself $40. Afterall, I don't see myself using a tool like that very often. I can buy a 22mm socket and a 1/2-in drive flex handle with the money I save.

My confidence level is definitely up, thanks to TheMadCow and countless others that have posted their trials and tribulations.

Thanks Bimmerforums!

[1995red318i]

Originally posted by ms318is
Congratulations! :clap: :clap: :clap:
Soliciting help from experienced folks is a very intelligent choice...

darn straight it is!;)

this guys had his hands in my car more than once:)

[aus]

Just take the strut to the local gas station and ask them to impact the top nut. It'll be worth it in terms of time and aggravation saved.
You guys are lucky you don't have to cut the stock strut like some of us had to. Kinda painful without the right tools.

Nice write-up.

[WJones]

Originally posted by WJones


Doesn't the Eibach pro-kit system come with new bumpstops? They are already shorter than stock.

Sorry... the Eibach Pro suspension system

[JuBu]

Attempting this job WITHOUT an IMPACT GUN or AIR COMPRESSOR???

OMG that's gonna be a bitch of an install..........


Use this project as an excuse to buy an air compressor and an air impact. It makes the job WAY easier. If anyone asked me to do the job without air tools I would laugh in their face

Damn, I don't know if I could laugh........maybe cry though.

--Justin

[snk328is]

It's been done... $500+ for an air compressor and impact wrench/wrench set = $500+ that I won't be able to spend on my next project.

My friend is planning on buying an air compressor and impact wrench soon, though, so I can always use his set. he he :D

[ebm34]

I just finished a GC coilover install this weekend (well, sort of, there's some noise in the back that I'm trying to track down). Anyway, I can't imagine how I would've done it without and impact wrench.

I just bought a cheap $160 electric wrench from Canadian Tire (yes, that's C$160 which is only about US$100) rated at 240ft-lbs. It worked fine for the all front lower strut bolts. And was a big help getting the top 22mm nut out. No need to hold the shaft, just give a few quick zips and the nut is out.

One thing I learned that maybe I should pass on.... the 18mm "impact socket" I had was way too fat to get around the lower strut bolts. I tried to undo one and almost ground it smooth. oops. So I purchased a normal 18mm socket. Worked fine on all four bolts.

[snk328is]

Cool ebm34. Do you like the way your car handles now? Could the noise in the back be the RSMs?

Anyway, I'm going to get a "Flex T Handle Ratchet" from Sears for the bolts. It should give me enough leverage to get those tight bolts off.

[Bernman]

A 1/2" drive 18mm socket and ratchet work well for taking off the lower strut bolts. It is a major pain the first time since BMW used some "super-strength" loctite on those bolts. :eek:

While it is *very* nice to have an impact, and even better a pneumatic impact and pneumatic ratchet, I have done the job three times on my car without it. Very desireable. Not absolutely necessary.

snk328, I am not sure what a "Flex T Handle Ratchet" is, but anything that moves, or otherwise flexes would probably make it harder to get the bolts off. A good size 1/2" drive should do it, and if that is not quite enough, get a pipe that will fit over the handle to extend the grip for another 8 inches or so. That will do it for sure :)

Have fun!
Bernman

[ebm34]

I haven't pushed it that hard yet cause I want to determine the source of the noise first. However, the ride is definitely stiffer (not harsh, I have 375/450 springs) and body roll is much improved. I changed to GC RSMs at the same time, so the noise isn't the typical stock shock mounts failing. It's a loose metallic jiggle, and happens even over very small bumps/ridges in the road. I may be something as simple as the plastic bump stop thingy in the rear Konis. Or maybe I didn't tighten the main nut on the rear strut properly and the GC RSM bushings are rubbing. Also, I haven't been able to determine if it's only coming from one side. Anyway, not to panic just yet.

[TheBestCow]

Bernman - I believe he is referring to the flex t bar I mentioned in my original post ... I put " " around the long name because all it is is a 1/2" drive breaker bar. 18 inches or so of nice metal with a 1/2" drive on the end. Very handy.

[snk328is]

Bernman, this is the link.

<a href="http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summary/productsummary.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@2077418738.102 9772478@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccgjadcfmikdihmcehgcemgdffmdfin.0&vertical=SEARS&bidsite=&pid=00944201000" target="new"> 15" 1/2-in Drive Flex Handle </a>

BTW, your suspension writeup was my inspiration to tackle the job myself. :D

[Bernman]

That looks pretty sturdy :)

For breaking the really tough bolts loose, I use my 1/2" drive torque wrench (set upwards of 200ft-lbs). The damn thing is more than two feet long, and makes short work of those 18mm bolts.

Glad that the write-up helped you out...even if only for inspiration ;)

It is not the hardest thing to do. Just take your time, and be careful with the springs, and *really* careful with the jackstands.

Have fun!
Bernman

[snk328is]

Well it certainly inspired me, but it will also come in handy when I actually get to the job... :)

I just bought a 3-ton jack from Sears yesterday (came with free jack stands), which will complement my 2 1/4-ton jack, also from Sears. I have a total of 4 jack stands now. :D