Dinan S/C along with Euro Ellipsoids?

[czechM3]

Does this combination fit? TIA Marty

[V Shah]

It sure does

http://members.cox.net/vshah/gallery/images/M3%20-%20Engine%20Bay.jpg

[czechM3]

Thanks for the reply. Any modification required to ellipsoid or Vortec? TIA Marty

[V Shah]

Well, I have a powerdyne, not a vortech, so the intake tubing may be different on yours. Although mine required no modification to fit, it is an extremely tight fit.

[czechM3]

Thanks for the help. Do you know any board members with the Vortec/Ellipsoid combo? TIA Marty

[V Shah]

Contact Chuck, his name on bimmerforums is psk145. He has the Vortech and ellipsoids.

[psk145]

not sure about the dinan kit and ellipsoids, but on my RMS kit, the air meter is moved directly behind the air filter, and a fitting is put on the intake to clear the lights.

[kitwetzler]

PSK145- got pics?

[psk145]

here's a pic I have that shows it. If you need more pics, I can get some. You can see how the tube bends away from the headlights.

[nicholas]

RMS Vortech kits require the use of a reducer to work with Euro Ellipsoids. The only disadvantage is that you are constricting the intake piping size from the filter to just behind the headlights, which will cost you some power, but not much.

[psk145]

Originally posted by nicholas
RMS Vortech kits require the use of a reducer to work with Euro Ellipsoids. The only disadvantage is that you are constricting the intake piping size from the filter to just behind the headlights, which will cost you some power, but not much.

plus you wont be able to use a euro HFM cause the 3.5" pipe wont clear. I think removing the backing plate will allow the use of the 3.5" pipe though

[kitwetzler]

How much did that pipe cost you? Looks interesting. So the MAF ends up way down by the filter? Dinan's filter comes all the way up to the MAF, I think I'd have to remove the brake duct to fit the MAF down there...

The Bosch Ellipsoids are shallower (and put out a nicer light) than the ZKWs.

[psk145]

dunno the price. RMS just included it in my install. I cant imagine it being very expensive. Its a steel pipe with 1 bend I think. MAF is directly behind the K&N. Brake duct is gone since the filter sits behind the opening.

When I bought my ellipsiods a long time ago, zkw's were the only commonly available ones. The intake pipe is now rubbing on my headlight after the engine swap. Something probably isnt lined up right, but I havent had time to really fix the problem.

[paul e]

Brake duct is gone since the filter sits behind the opening

PSK...Ive always wanted to know where on the RMS kit the K&N goes, since I didnt think he put it in the same place Dinan did.....Dinan , if you look at my sig line, puts like a 4-5" elbow attached to the MAF at one end, into the rubber flange of the K&N< which is anchored by going through a 3.5" hole in a steel plate which serves as an anchor for the filter, and as a heat shield in that it separates the engine compartment from the area which contains teh filter, which is situated such that the filter bottom just about touches the top of the brake duct.

Whats the difference between this setup, and what RMS uses?

[psk145]

of course your sig isnt working now paul! But I think I know what you mean. Its similar to the CAI right?

I think the only difference is the length of the pipe. The filter actually sits in the airflow of the brake duct opening as opposed to on top of the brake duct. No shielding too, just sucking directly from the dect opening. Did that answer the question? Im not sure if Im describing it well.

[paul e]

No shielding too, just sucking directly from the dect opening. Did that answer the question? Im not sure if Im describing it well

Yea PSK I think I get it...BTW, I fixed my pics...Yahoo I think changed its link somehow. BTW, that close up of your SC and Ellipsoids...wow....how clean is that! YOur pipes look so much cleaner than mine...your Vortech too...Please tell my you took the pic right after the installation! Anyway, if your filter is right in your brake duct, what is anchoring or holding it? On Dinans, theres this metal plate with a 3.5" hole in it into which the K&N rubber flange fits, into which fits a steel eblow, around whic goes the hose clamp, to anchor the filter...its pretty solid...and the anchor plate does double duty as a heat shield isolating the filter form sucking any engine air..its not air tight, but good enough.

With your filter down in the brake duct, your even more suceptible to hyldro lock than I am...not much though. And Id imagine it gets pretty dirty pretty quickly...No doubt though you get a good strong flow of clean air...thats a real good high pressure area feeding that duct. Is your brake duct completely removed, or cut in half, or just gutted, to make room for the filter. I bet we could fit a bigger cone by opening up the duct like yours. Let me know how its anchored without that plate...thanks.

[psk145]

Paul: its not anchored at all. The filter is clamped to the air meter, the air meter is clamped to the intake pipe you see. There is no achor. I heard RMS does this because as the engine goes under load, the whole thing kinda rotates a bit. Its what I hear, so maybe someone can confirm. Dirt doesnt bother me. Arent K&N's supposed to filter better as they get dirtier?

I took the pic right after install, but it pretty much looks like that now too. The aftercooler and piping doesnt fit as well as it did before. When Vortech sent the new blower, I think the outlet neck is a bit longer, so its messing up the geometry a bit, so the aftercooler rubs on the shock tower and the strut bar.

I was also worried about sucking water since there's nothing blocking air/water from coming into the duct opening. The brake duct is completely gone.

[paul e]

The brake duct is completely gone.

So, PSK, it looks like youve got plenty of room for a nice large filter. And it sounds like we if we wanted to remove our anchor plate(heat shield), and either radically open up our brake ducts, or remove them altogether, wed have a similar intake to you RMS guys. Cept our HFM would probably stay where it is...I dont see any point in moving it down there near the brake duct like the RMS location. Also, with all that room, it would probably be easier to work with an ITG and get it to fit and hose up.

[kitwetzler]

Paul, keep in mind that RMS uses a 1 piece tube from the compressor inlet all the way down to the throttle body, where we have a few sections with flex hose there. Dinan's kit deals with the flex uses the flex pieces before and after the MAF (which shields it from vibrations), as well as the anchor plate to hold the filter. The RMS kit uses a lightweight rigid pipe.

We can use the RMS piping, but you have to replace the inlet and discharge tubes, and use a different bypass valve setup, and the RMS kit doesn't have a provision for the PCV to return before the MAF. (it only goes to the oil separator tank...) You can just run it to a catch can, though.

[psk145]

Originally posted by kitwetzler
the RMS kit doesn't have a provision for the PCV to return before the MAF. (it only goes to the oil separator tank...) You can just run it to a catch can, though.


actually there is a return from the pcv valve back into the intake before the compressor but after the air meter

[kitwetzler]

sorry PSK145, you're right, my bad.

I slapped Bosch Ellipsoids in my car last night. Removed the filter mounting bracket and reoriented the filter to give me some more room. I was in a rush, but I plan to make a better mount for the filter. Works great.

Ellipsoids + HID are God's gift to night driving... wow!

[nicholas]

Confirming what chuck said,
RMS does not hard mount the intake pipe anymore. They used to and that was how my car was originally. But, as the engine twists the intake pipe was coming loose from the supercharger, throwing check engine lights. They now just soft mount the pipe with a piece of rubber and use an improved and stronger clamp where the intake pipe mounts to the S/C. This way the engine and intake can twist in unison. As far as the filter and HFM, you can run a cut up brake duct or just remove it altogether (but the brake duct no longer can feed the brake, you must block up that back of the duct to prevent debris from the tires hurling towards the HFM and filter); and you need to be careful in rainy weather or large puddles. Also, be careful when washing the car. But, here in California, rain is seldom seen.:D