MLS headgasket procedure

[caldweb]

So I'm going to be installing an MLS headgasket from VAC and arp head studs next weekend, and I just want to make sure I get it right the first time around, so I don't have any leaks or other problems. Here's a guess at what to do.

1) Pull head off
2) Get head surface machined smooth (to a certain micron measurement?)
3) Any need to machine block surface as well ?
4) Install studs and mls gasket
5) Apply gasket sealer to surface for timing cover
5) replace head
6) Torque arp head studs (perhaps need to rig up a thin socket to do this with cams installed)
7) any break in procedures?

What else am I missing? Any tips or experiences would be awesome. Thanks!

[BlownM3]

Good luck with the cams. There is a ton of special BMW tools needed to do it right. Installation and timing. My head was done by a BMW shop and they still had to go back and retime the cams. That is the only project I have never tried to tackle on my car. Everything else I did myself but I looked in the Bently manual and decided not to try. Also are you putting in the stock size 10mm head bolts or the upgraded 11mm ones?

[caldweb]

Ah, I was hoping not to mess with the cams because of that. I though it might be possible to install the studs with the cams still in, but maybe I'm wrong on that. I haven't decided on the size yet. I guess its just a matter of getting new threads tapped? I'm not sure if its worth the extra effort and cost.

[BlownM3]

I think the cams have to come out. Yeah the 11mm bolts need to have the stock holes drilled and retapped. I didn't feel safe having that done and went with the stock 10mm bolts.

[trthrrt489]

Gooooooood thread! You my friend arn't the only one freaked out to do this by yourself. I want more boost, but want to know whats going on in there. Bassmaster......EMC.........guys that have done this before, we would like pictures and a "how too" writeup.

[///3oris]

Gooooooood thread! You my friend arn't the only one freaked out to do this by yourself. I want more boost, but want to know whats going on in there. Bassmaster......EMC.........guys that have done this before, we would like pictures and a "how too" writeup.

Haha, just built 'er and already want more, eh? LOL :D

Damn junky! :)

Regarding the gasket, you can buy the special tool to lock/align the cams in place.

Boris

[ICS Performance]

So I'm going to be installing an MLS headgasket from VAC and arp head studs next weekend, and I just want to make sure I get it right the first time around, so I don't have any leaks or other problems. Here's a guess at what to do.

1) Pull head off
2) Get head surface machined smooth (to a certain micron measurement?)
3) Any need to machine block surface as well ?
4) Install studs and mls gasket
5) Apply gasket sealer to surface for timing cover
5) replace head
6) Torque arp head studs (perhaps need to rig up a thin socket to do this with cams installed)
7) any break in procedures?

What else am I missing? Any tips or experiences would be awesome. Thanks!
You must buy a can of copper spray silicone, spray both sides of the gasket, dont be afraid to lay it on. Let it dry, clean all surfaces, if you car is turbo you will not be able to install the stud kit before you lay the head onto the block. (much easier for the manifold to be installed off the head. Line the head up on the block, once the gasket is layed, there are dole pins to line it up. Once the head is on the bock, start to install the studs, there is a special lubricant you must install on both sides of the stud. You will need an allen tool to tighten the studs, one buy one, them install the washer and the nuts.
When torquing the cylinder head you must follow factory torque and sequence. Allow time 10-15 minutes between steps so the MLS gasket can settle. If you decide to run some big boost torque it to 65lbs for the final step. If you have any more questions regarding the installation, please do not hesitate to contact be.

[trthrrt489]

///3oris Quote:




Haha, just built 'er and already want more, eh? LOL

Damn junky!

I'm sick............no joke. It isn't even tuned to its potential and I want a low and high boost option. :(

Arn't you first in line for the Stage2?....................sicko.

BTW, George, thanks for sharing. I realize that you help alot of people, and many on this board are supporters. However, I get the "drop your car off along with 15k and I'll can do this to your car too" vibe from many of your posts. Advice like this is important, and I would love to read more like it.

[BlownM3]

George didn't say "bring the car in along with 15k" He was offering his knowledge.

[trthrrt489]

George didn't say "bring the car in along with 15k" He was offering his knowledge.
Thanks.............

[ICS Performance]

///3oris Quote:




Haha, just built 'er and already want more, eh? LOL

Damn junky!

I'm sick............no joke. It isn't even tuned to its potential and I want a low and high boost option. :(

Arn't you first in line for the Stage2?....................sicko.

BTW, George, thanks for sharing. I realize that you help alot of people, and many on this board are supporters. However, I get the "drop your car off along with 15k and I'll can do this to your car too" vibe from many of your posts. Advice like this is important, and I would love to read more like it.
You would be suprised how little I charge for a head gasket swap on S52 motor, much cheaper than many people hear on the board that sell prducts that you yourself, think is inexpensive and top notch. If you have no idea what I charge please do not think to comment if you yourself have not dealt with me, and heard from others that have not dealt with who assume.

[BlownM3]

Mine came to $2800. That was because unknowing all my exhaust valves were bent. $950 plus $19 a valve to fix the head. At least I installed a BMP headgasket. Maybe something good came about it, the gasket to slightly lower the compression and finding out the valves were bent. I never would have checked the valves. I would have just put the new gasket in and slapped it together.

[caldweb]

Thanks George! Exactly what I was hoping to hear... experience from those who've done it lots before.

[trthrrt489]

You would be suprised how little I charge for a head gasket swap on S52 motor, much cheaper than many people hear on the board that sell prducts that you yourself, think is inexpensive and top notch. If you have no idea what I charge please do not think to comment if you yourself have not dealt with me, and heard from others that have not dealt with who assume.
George, I'm not talking about actual prices. I'm talking about vibe. I've been reading this board for a while, and have my opinions. I used to sell cars, and you remind me of my used car manager. I used to say you could take him and drop him in the middle of the desert, come back in three years, and he would have a camel lot. Its not a bad thing. I just think you have alot of informaton that is "privaledged". How to do a headgasket is what I would consider to be "privaledged" information. I think it's great that you are sharing.

[///M3 Sedan]

///3oris Quote:




Haha, just built 'er and already want more, eh? LOL

Damn junky!

I'm sick............no joke. It isn't even tuned to its potential and I want a low and high boost option. :(

Arn't you first in line for the Stage2?....................sicko.

BTW, George, thanks for sharing. I realize that you help alot of people, and many on this board are supporters. However, I get the "drop your car off along with 15k and I'll can do this to your car too" vibe from many of your posts. Advice like this is important, and I would love to read more like it.



lol, good advice and you have to respond like an ass, sweet

[///3oris]

Thanks George! Exactly what I was hoping to hear... experience from those who've done it lots before.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=274061

By the way, all this information comes with your headgasket/studs. I'd have to look at mine again, but I remember reading it all in the instructions. The hardest part (for you) will be timing everything again... the gasket itself should be a snap. Follow instructions (with the gasket/studs, not your Bentley).

Boris

P.S. Use the lube and tightening torques specified in ARP. If George says 65ft/lbs I'd go with that, since he has many cars that run fine with big boost. I'll have to look up how much tensile strength that equates to.

[trthrrt489]

lol, good advice and you have to respond like an ass, sweet
easy................are you looking to join a camp?

[///3oris]

Stop blowing your head gaskets guys (pun intended ;))... we're just talking gaskets... relax ;)

Boris

[ICS Performance]

Thanks George! Exactly what I was hoping to hear... experience from those who've done it lots before.
One important thing i forgot to tell you, around the t/c side of the gasket(front part) make sure your also spread silicone (tube style) on the block, then lay the gasket, and spread some also on the gasket before laying the cylinder head, they seem to leak oil from there if they are not properly sealed.

[///3oris]

One important thing i forgot to tell you, around the t/c side of the gasket(front part) make sure your also spread silicone (tube style) on the block, then lay the gasket, and spread some also on the gasket before laying the cylinder head, they seem to leak oil from there if they are not properly sealed.

George, on top of the copper sealer? Can you go into more details please?

Thanks,

Boris

[///M3 Sedan]

easy................are you looking to join a camp?

No, just calling it as I see it. Some good advice with no hint of a sales pitch and you bite, perhaps you've chosen a camp already?

[trthrrt489]

One important thing i forgot to tell you, around the t/c side of the gasket(front part) make sure your also spread silicone (tube style) on the block, then lay the gasket, and spread some also on the gasket before laying the cylinder head, they seem to leak oil from there if they are not properly sealed.
Details like these are why I read this board. Thank you.

[caldweb]

So what about machining the head to a specific finish as bassmaster suggests. Anyone else do that?

[ICS Performance]

George, on top of the copper sealer? Can you go into more details please?

Thanks,

Boris
REmove the head, clean the the the deck of the block, lightly use some sandpaper to make sure the the surface is conpletely cleaned, next get a tube of high temp silicone, spread it onto the block in the front half when the timining chain side is. Spread the silicone around the t/c chain ares, the complete rectangular area. Then install the MLS gasket once it is sprayed well with many layers of high temp silicone. Lay the head unto the block, make sure the dole pins are keeping the gasket into place.Then once the gasket is layed onto the block, same goes with the silicone on the other side of the head gasket in the same place. While installing the head make sure you use the dole pins in the block for proper allignment and fitment. Then install your stud kit, make sure you use the grease in the package for instalation of the studs, must be used on the threads only and the allen side is facing up, start from the middle out. Once all the studs are installed, then you need to install the washers and then the nuts, make sure they are properly greased using the product in the box, and then the usual torquing, give 10-15 minutes between torque steps to assure proper settling of the MLS gasket. (VERY IMPORTANT) Make sure you count all of the studs washer and nuts before installation, and check the nuts and make sure all are the same size and are threaded, ive had problems where some of the nuts where not threaded from the factory, not a pleasant surprise, believe me. Good luck everyone.

[EMC]

Copper spray is not needed on these MLS gaskets. There is a coating already on the gasket which acts as an adhesive. From my engine builder...The key to a good seal is to make sure it gets hot and seals up before you add coolant to the motor. Start the engine up, let it get close to operating temp, then start adding warm water/coolant. This will allow the adhesive to get tacky and the gasket to seal before it comes into contact with coolant.

You will still need to put gasket sealant on the timing chain cover to get that sealed.

I know that my motor and Mike A's motor (Mike's motor was put together by VAC) did not use copper spray. I used the break-in technique from my engine guy and neither one of us has had any kind of problems with coolant or oil leaks.

You must remember to be very careful with the cylinder head when you pull it off the block. Have a nice soft/flat place to lay it down so the sealing surface doesn't get scratched. Follow the torque procedure in the Bentley manual and things will go along smoothly. It's not a very hard job if you have the right tools (under $300) and patience to follow the procedures.

[EMC]

.....I'll post a procedure with full pictures next week if people are interested. I just won't have computer access until Monday evening, so please be patient. ;)

[trthrrt489]

.....I'll post a procedure with full pictures next week if people are interested. I just won't have computer access until Monday evening, so please be patient. ;)
I am. This is very important to know how to do. Step by step, with pics is the only way to really remotley show someone how to do this.

[EMC]

I am. This is very important to know how to do. Step by step, with pics is the only way to really remotley show someone how to do this.

Drive on out to Michigan and I'll make sure my engine builder can be there to do some of the work and make sure we don't make any mistakes. I timed my cams and installed the vanos. He just made sure the head was prepped and torqued the nuts/studs.

The guy owns 13 or more snap-on torque wrenches and has them calibrated all the time. I guess thats what you have to do when you build viper engines and hemi crate motors for your day job....then make more than that drag racing in the summer months. I'm lucky to have worked with him and had him assemble my motor.

[Geno325is]

The hardest/critical part really is the cam timing-

Dave, I can lend you my buddy's cam locks if you want.

[ICS Performance]

Copper spray is not needed on these MLS gaskets. There is a coating already on the gasket which acts as an adhesive. From my engine builder...The key to a good seal is to make sure it gets hot and seals up before you add coolant to the motor. Start the engine up, let it get close to operating temp, then start adding warm water/coolant. This will allow the adhesive to get tacky and the gasket to seal before it comes into contact with coolant.

You will still need to put gasket sealant on the timing chain cover to get that sealed.

I know that my motor and Mike A's motor (Mike's motor was put together by VAC) did not use copper spray. I used the break-in technique from my engine guy and neither one of us has had any kind of problems with coolant or oil leaks.

You must remember to be very careful with the cylinder head when you pull it off the block. Have a nice soft/flat place to lay it down so the sealing surface doesn't get scratched. Follow the torque procedure in the Bentley manual and things will go along smoothly. It's not a very hard job if you have the right tools (under $300) and patience to follow the procedures.
Im sorry to tell you that you are wrong, b/c ive done so many and they leak without spraying them, and yes I was told it dosent need to be sprayed, but ive seen leakage. Better safe than sorry.

[trthrrt489]

Drive on out to Michigan and I'll make sure my engine builder can be there to do some of the work and make sure we don't make any mistakes. I timed my cams and installed the vanos. He just made sure the head was prepped and torqued the nuts/studs.

The guy owns 13 or more snap-on torque wrenches and has them calibrated all the time. I guess thats what you have to do when you build viper engines and hemi crate motors for your day job....then make more than that drag racing in the summer months. I'm lucky to have worked with him and had him assemble my motor.

Fine, I will drive out. I'm serious about watching this. Does he normally work on the weekends? Or I have a couple of personal days that I might be able to use. Weekends are better though.

[trthrrt489]

The hardest/critical part really is the cam timing-

Dave, I can lend you my buddy's cam locks if you want.

Did you HAVE to take your cams off? Or just make sure the timing never changed, and keep them locked while the head is off?

[Geno325is]

Theres no reason to remove the cams- You will have to time the cams back regardless. Trust me, use the cam locks- :D

[EMC]

Im sorry to tell you that you are wrong, b/c ive done so many and they leak without spraying them, and yes I was told it dosent need to be sprayed, but ive seen leakage. Better safe than sorry.

Is the block checked for flatness and the head as well? Thousands of these gaskets have been installed without copper spray. Are they leaking oil or coolant? I just attended an SAE seminar on MLS gaskets this past week...and...OEM's use these as well...

...oh well, just use the copper spray if it makes you feel better. :D I doubt it would hurt anything using it. I'd still stick with starting the motor up without coolant and letting it get some heat in there before adding coolant. Like I said before, my motor and Mike's are bone dry. There are things to do if they start to leak. Heck, even stock gaskets will leak...probably for the same reasons you've seen MLS gaskets leak.

George, how long does it take to develop a leak? Mike's probably got about 1,000 miles of boosting his motor already and we haven't seen anything as of yet.

Also...its very safe to use only water on a fresh motor when you start it up. You can always drain some and add antifreeze later on. See....if there is a problem, antifreeze will kill your bearings, whereas water won't do the same kind of damage.

[EMC]

Fine, I will drive out. I'm serious about watching this. Does he normally work on the weekends? Or I have a couple of personal days that I might be able to use. Weekends are better though.

I'm sure we can find a weekend to do this. I'll start looking at my schedule later today. Things are too hectic right now to pick a time within the next 6 weeks or so...

[trthrrt489]

I'm sure we can find a weekend to do this. I'll start looking at my schedule later today. Things are too hectic right now to pick a time within the next 6 weeks or so...

I would appreciate that.

[ICS Performance]

Is the block checked for flatness and the head as well? Thousands of these gaskets have been installed without copper spray. Are they leaking oil or coolant? I just attended an SAE seminar on MLS gaskets this past week...and...OEM's use these as well...

...oh well, just use the copper spray if it makes you feel better. :D I doubt it would hurt anything using it. I'd still stick with starting the motor up without coolant and letting it get some heat in there before adding coolant. Like I said before, my motor and Mike's are bone dry. There are things to do if they start to leak. Heck, even stock gaskets will leak...probably for the same reasons you've seen MLS gaskets leak.

George, how long does it take to develop a leak? Mike's probably got about 1,000 miles of boosting his motor already and we haven't seen anything as of yet.

Also...its very safe to use only water on a fresh motor when you start it up. You can always drain some and add antifreeze later on. See....if there is a problem, antifreeze will kill your bearings, whereas water won't do the same kind of damage.
Im not doubting you in any way, I had 2 leak, and since then I use copper spray gasket, and havent had a problem ever since, tons of boost no leaks, nice and dry. Very cool thanks for the info. :D

[EMC]

Im not doubting you in any way, I had 2 leak, and since then I use copper spray gasket, and havent had a problem ever since, tons of boost no leaks, nice and dry. Very cool thanks for the info. :D

How quickly did the leaks develop? Were they internal or external? Oil or Coolant?

Thanks,
Eric

[///3oris]

Thanks George and Eric :D

Boris

[ICS Performance]

How quickly did the leaks develop? Were they internal or external? Oil or Coolant?

Thanks,
Eric
It was external oil. :)

[NickG]

Wow. A thread with some good FI related technical content. That's what this place is all about :)

[trthrrt489]

Wow. A thread with some good FI related technical content. That's what this place is all about :)
How about it, anything to add to the process? Everyone is sharing at this party :D

[NickG]

I think everything's pretty much been covered. Bottom line is that the MLS gaskets can be tricky to install properly. Different methods exist that wind up achieving the same end result.

[stimpee]

Any opinions on the best head stud kit? I have heard some differing opinions on this.

Not that I would ever consider doing something like this!!

:D

[trthrrt489]

Any opinions on the best head stud kit? I have heard some differing opinions on this.

Not that I would ever consider doing something like this!!

:D

Got Psi says to use ARP. He says he is using Raceware right now, but at the end of the summer he might change them out for ARP. I don't remember what the reasoning was behind the choice.

[caldweb]

I just ordered the 10mm ARP head studs. I didn't feel like messing around drilling and re-tapping the holes. Hope I made the right decision...

[themadhatter]

so what's the general consensus:

can 10 mm head studs be used safely (over the 11 mm variant)?

-Ron

[mrdoenutz]

so what's the general consensus:

can 10 mm head studs be used safely (over the 11 mm variant)?

-Ron


i think so, they should hold up fine. plus you wont have to retap the block for the 11's and modify the head to accept the 11's

[themadhatter]

i think so, they should hold up fine. plus you wont have to retap the block for the 11's and modify the head to accept the 11's
thanks, I also would like to avoid tapping the block since the hg install is going to be a DIY for me.

[highboostingm3]

i think so, they should hold up fine. plus you wont have to retap the block for the 11's and modify the head to accept the 11's
WOW! This is big news! HUGE! I am about to finally install the .140 MLS HG that has been sitting around my garage forever. Beyond all the copper spray and silicone stuff...it would be great if my tuner didn't have to deal with the 11's on this. There are enough headaches! :redspot

[///3oris]

WOW! This is big news! HUGE! I am about to finally install the .140 MLS HG that has been sitting around my garage forever. Beyond all the copper spray and silicone stuff...it would be great if my tuner didn't have to deal with the 11's on this. There are enough headaches! :redspot

Get 10's unless you take out your engine and have them retap it on a machine. You won't get it perfect by hand. Plus, there may not be enough meat to grab on to, since you already have a 10mm hole w/threads. Not worth the PITA....

Boris

[base146ball]

Who's headgasket is everyone running and are you having problems or not??

[themadhatter]

Who's headgasket is everyone running and are you having problems or not??
I believe these are the ones sourced from VAC motorsport.

[mrdoenutz]

Who's headgasket is everyone running and are you having problems or not??


there are basically 4 gaskets available-

AA's Headgasket - I ran this before and works very good
Cometic (Vac Sells this one) - Going to try this one now, no info on it yet
BMP - Similar to AA's
OEM

[trthrrt489]

there are basically 4 gaskets available-

AA's Headgasket - I ran this before and works very good
Cometic (Vac Sells this one) - Going to try this one now, no info on it yet
BMP - Similar to AA's
OEM

So is MLS a brand?

[mrdoenutz]

So is MLS a brand?

no, mls is a style of gasket. Cometic is the brand.

[caldweb]

MLS = Multi Layer Steel, Cometic's gasket is an MLS. AA uses a copper spacer.

[caldweb]

Oops, a little slow on the draw.

[mrdoenutz]

AA uses a copper spacer.


not always true. depends on the setup. I ran the AA gasket with no copper spacer because I already had lower compression.

[Geno325is]

So is MLS a brand?

:(

[Bad Bimr]

Got Psi says to use ARP. He says he is using Raceware right now, but at the end of the summer he might change them out for ARP. I don't remember what the reasoning was behind the choice.

From what I understand both are great products. Raceware are supposed to use better stronger steel. Old their old website they said they are "NASA" grade. I had these in my first engine and they did their job. They do cost more then the ARP's.

I have 1/2" ARP's in my currect engine. The only reason I went ARP is because that is what my engine builder has experience with. Yes my block and heads were modefied to accept the 1/2" studs.

I think both products are equally good. I doubt you can have complaits for either.

Bill

[///3oris]

there are basically 4 gaskets available-

AA's Headgasket - I ran this before and works very good
Cometic (Vac Sells this one) - Going to try this one now, no info on it yet
BMP - Similar to AA's
OEM

I believe BMP sells the same Cometic gaskets that VAC does.

Boris

[trthrrt489]

:(


LOL! Dickhead.


BTW, there is an article in this months "DSport" magazine on racing fasteners. They take a tour or ARP's factory and explain what materials are used and how they are made. For being a "ricer" magazine, it has some great articles.

[M3TurboCa]

Boris unless BMP changed the head gaskets recently I think they are different.

When I repalced mine in Sept 02 the BMP head gasket was a multi layered kevlar/stainless steel but it also came with 6 separate rings for each cylinder.

This is what I am currently using.

[///3oris]

Boris unless BMP changed the head gaskets recently I think they are different.

When I repalced mine in Sept 02 the BMP head gasket was a multi layered kevlar/stainless steel but it also came with 6 separate rings for each cylinder.

This is what I am currently using.

Ahh, ok, I've been told it's a Cometic, guess not. Thanks for the correction.

Boris

[Mikea]

Im running raceware and a VAC MLS gasket. If any of you guys are running the AA or BMP gasket make sure to retouqe the head bolts after 3000-5000miles on my old set-up they need a half turn on each bolt.

[M3TurboCa]

Hey Mike did not do that and there is no leak, should I have my mechanic retorque it now ?

It has been 2.5 years now.

[Mikea]

Hey Mike did not do that and there is no leak, should I have my mechanic retorque it now ?

It has been 2.5 years now.


I would...just from personal experience.

[Juker008]

Also...its very safe to use only water on a fresh motor when you start it up. You can always drain some and add antifreeze later on. See....if there is a problem, antifreeze will kill your bearings, whereas water won't do the same kind of damage.

I'm alittle confused here, from what I am understanding is your technique involves letting the engine run w/o any coolant. This technique allows it to warm up, just below operating temp, to allow a good seal. My question is, if there is no coolant, then what lubricates the water pump?

Also if you could please explain how antifreeze will kill your bearing compared to water.

Thanks in advance,




Juker008

[Juker008]

Hey Mike did not do that and there is no leak, should I have my mechanic retorque it now ?

It has been 2.5 years now.


:rofl .




Juker008

[Mikea]

:rofl .




Juker008


Whats so funny?

[Juker008]

Whats so funny?


Its funny that you are asking if you should retorque your head studs, after there has been no leak, for 2.5 years. If you haven't had a problem for 2.5 years, I think the answer is ovbious :D .




Juker008

[EMC]

Its funny that you are asking if you should retorque your head studs, after there has been no leak, for 2.5 years. If you haven't had a problem for 2.5 years, I think the answer is ovbious :D .




Juker008

Mike had the same studs and head gasket on his first setup. Everything was fine with that as well, but when the head studs were checked several hundred miles later, they were in need of torqueing again. He's just saying that its better to be safe than sorry. Re-checking the torque won't hurt anything, but it will take a little time.

[Mikea]

Mike had the same studs and head gasket on his first setup. Everything was fine with that as well, but when the head studs were checked several hundred miles later, they were in need of torqueing again. He's just saying that its better to be safe than sorry. Re-checking the torque won't hurt anything, but it will take a little time.


Thanks, Eric.... if you call AA and ask them about retorqeing there headgasket they will tell you the same.

[Juker008]

I'm not trying to imply on anything negative. I was just tring in point out the humor that I saw. There wasn't a problem for 2.5 years, no leaks, everything was fine. I would think that after 2.5 years and not a problem that there would be no need to fix what is not broken.




Juker008

[caldweb]

Help. Those of you who've done this before... did you get both surfaces machined before installing the gasket? Do I need to get the block surfaced as well to get a good seal? There's some residue left from the original gasket. I can scrape some of it off with my fingernal. How about using scotch-brite pads on it? The head is getting surfaced. It was in pretty good shape, just a small hump in the middle that's being taken out.

[EMC]

Just use a scotchbrite pad...that should be good enough on the deck. Don't rough anything up, just clean it and you will be fine.

How much are they taking off the head? A little goes a long ways in changing the compression ratio.

[caldweb]

Ok, thanks. That's easy enough.

They're doing the bare minimum to make it flat. I think was something like 4 thousandths out of line at one point.

[icemann633]

.004 could make a difference i am sure...

[caldweb]

.004 could make a difference i am sure...
:confused. So now my MLS headgasket is effectively .136". oh well