Car not starting. Starter??? Please help

[IIrjII]

I have a 99 m3. The car won't try and start. I can turn the key, and it won't even click. The instrument lights turn on. I replaced the battery thinking it was the battery, but nothing happened. I disabled my starter kill from alarm, so I know its not the starter kill. Could it be the starter or starter relay? Does anyone know which relay is the starter relay? Anyone have any suggestions?

[M-Theory]

Do you have to have the clutch in on 99's to start it?

[Miknow]

Well, I have a brand new Bosch starter that I'll sell you for cheap. It was going in my car then I sold the car.

[Miknow]

But of course I'd diagnose the problem first to make sure its the starter.

But be warned. That thing is a PITA to install.

I actually removed my whole intake manifold to instal it but I found that the tight cramped space was difficult to work on the starter.

If I had to redo it, I'd prolly go under the car and start there.

[hinzm3]

I know I have to push my clutch in to start my car and its a 99. Someone had the same problem before and it was the switch behind the clutch pedal. I would check into that.



But of course I'd diagnose the problem first to make sure its the starter.

But be warned. That thing is a PITA to install.

I actually removed my whole intake manifold to instal it but I found that the tight cramped space was difficult to work on the starter.

If I had to redo it, I'd prolly go under the car and start there.

Its even harder under the car because you have a hard time getting to the bolts on top of the starter.

[IIrjII]

I installed a remote start alarm into my vehicle, so the clutch was bypassed. But I'll check the clutch switch. No one thinks it could be the relay?

[///MacDaddy]

Check and clean the connections from the battery, the ground and the posssitive at the starter. That's where I would start if the battery has plenty of juice.

[ChipM]

Central locking system could be confused. Try another key to the car, or try cycling the locks repeatedly using the key in the door lock, not a keyless system.

[M-Theory]

I installed a remote start alarm into my vehicle

That right there is going to be factor 1. I'd start from that point.

[nightkrawler]

i wouldnt point the finger at the starter just yet. i had the same problem on my last m3, it was due to a bad key. could be lots of things, relay, bad key, ews problem, ring antenna, etc, the list goes on. try this, turn on the headlights. have someone stand outside the car and see if they dim for a momentarily when you turn the key to start the car. if the dont dim, then there is no power being diverted to the starter.

[IIrjII]

What do I do if they don't dim? I've tightened my connections on my battery. Do I clean of corrosion on the starter, or tighten anything on the starter? After messing with the battery, my starter started clicking. When I turn the key, the starter clicks, and thats it. I do this a couple of times, and then it won't click anymore.

[nightkrawler]

did you do the "test" as i said to try? did the headlights dim when you tried to start the car? as said, the whole point of this is an easy way to see if power is being diverted to the starter. if you're getting clicks now after screwing with the battery, clean all connections and make sure that battery is fully charged or get a new battery but even if you get a new one, test it or have the store test it and make sure it is good. iirc, autozone will test batterys for free.

[hal9000]

If the starter clicks, but doesn't turn over, then I"m guessing you've got a dead spot on the starter or your kill switch relay is still hosed. Hook a battery charger up and see if it cranks (use the engine connections to eliminate trunk wiring). I think you've still got a bad battery connection.

[ParadigmGuy]

I have a 99 m3. The car won't try and start. I can turn the key, and it won't even click. The instrument lights turn on. I replaced the battery thinking it was the battery, but nothing happened. I disabled my starter kill from alarm, so I know its not the starter kill. Could it be the starter or starter relay? Does anyone know which relay is the starter relay? Anyone have any suggestions?
If it doesn't click but the car has power it seems to be one of 2 things. It could be the battery (even though the radio works) or it's just the fuse under the hood. There's an EWS fuse (I think it's 25 amp). I don't remember what number fuse it is, but it's in the row that parrallels the bumper, not doors. I blew it several times while trying to figure out how to bypass my EWS. :)
I tried to jump start my M3 and couldn't get it to start. I decided to get the battery tested anyway and found out my battery was bad. I bought a new battery and then blew some fuses. :)

[nightkrawler]

If the starter clicks, but doesn't turn over, then I"m guessing you've got a dead spot on the starter or your kill switch relay is still hosed. Hook a battery charger up and see if it cranks (use the engine connections to eliminate trunk wiring). I think you've still got a bad battery connection.

forgot about that, good catch, it is very possible that you have a dead spot on the starter. as soon as you know that the battery is good and that you are getting fulll power to the starter, try the old "hammer" trick. i dont think you can get a hammer back there but maybe the end of a breaker bar. as you try turning the car over and the starter is clicking or even doing nothing, have a friend start hitting the starter firmly with the breaker bar. sometimes it will get the starter to crank and maybe then the car will start. i've done this many times on many different cars. i had an accord years ago that had a starter that had a dead spot, i used the "hammer" trick to start it many times before i replaced it.
also, i dont remember if our starters have a solenoid on them that can be replaced seperately, but it could be that also.

[DMahon]

I had the same problem. Turned out it was my crank angle sensor. Best thing to do is get a PEAKE tool and check the code.

[CarbonBlkE36]

put power right to ur starter, if it dont go u need 1

[nightkrawler]

put power right to ur starter, if it dont go u need 1

very good idea, if you cant get a wire down to the starter for some reason, you can drop the pass side kick panel and drop the small black box that says "ews" on it. dont quote me on this but iirc there is a thick purple wire running out the other side of the box, jump power to the wire and the starter will crank. you probably might want to get a wiring diagram to check the exact color of the wire. i know this works because when my key went bad and the car wouldnt start, i did everything i could on my own to get it to start, thought it was in the ews system. the ews box is black and has a plug going into one side and wires coming out the other, one of them gives power to the starter.

[IIrjII]

I did the headlight test, and the lights didn't dim. A few questions here. How do I get the starter out? Does anyone know which relay is the starter relay? Whats the best way to remove the starter? And finally, how do I get the wire down and get power to the starter without going behind the glovebox?

[nightkrawler]

the manifold has to come off to remove the starter. you should first test the bettery and make sure it is ok. next jump power directly to the starter, see if it cranks. do the "hammer test" as i said a lot of times it will jar the starter enough to get it past the dead spot. if your battery is definately good then you're not getting power to the starter cause if th lights dont dim then you're not drawing power from the battery. actually first thing you should do is get a chiltons or haynes manual for the car.

[palvarez]

the manifold has to come off to remove the starter. you should first test the bettery and make sure it is ok. next jump power directly to the starter, see if it cranks. do the "hammer test" as i said a lot of times it will jar the starter enough to get it past the dead spot. if your battery is definately good then you're not getting power to the starter cause if th lights dont dim then you're not drawing power from the battery. actually first thing you should do is get a chiltons or haynes manual for the car.

The Manifold does not have to come off to release the starter. You release the bolts that hold the starter from the transmition side from the bottom and you have to remove your intake and maybe the rear support for the manyfold and dip stick but dont release the manifold to do a starter. You can try to jump your starter to make cancel out the starter. Your best bet is to take it to a shop and have them check out to make sure it is not an EWS problem or your aftermarket alarm install, I have seen these cause all sort of problems before. So good Luck Man! And if you are going to check out a manual, make it a Bentley manual, really all the manuals out there aren't very good but if you have to use one go for this one.

[IIrjII]

I tested the battery and I am getting 12volts. I tested the wire behind the starter and I am also getting 12volts. The ground seems to be okay, cause I tested for continuity. I jumped power to the starter and still no start. My friend and I hammered down on the starter and still no start.
The aftermarket alarm has been bypassed, so I know that its not the alarm. All the fuses in the vehicle seem okay. I don't want to take it to a shop, cause I don't know if I can trust any shops in San diego without ripping me off. If it was an ews problem, would I have been able to pop start my car? Any more suggestions from anybody? I appreciate all the help peeps. Does anyone know which relay is the starter relay?

[nightkrawler]

if you really did jump power directly to the starter and it didn't crank, then i would say it is bad and to replace it. i have 2 manuals in the car, i'll try and get you the location of the relay before i head to work, but it shouldn't matter, if you definately got power to the starter then it should crank because you're bypassing the relay. i assume you mean trying to start the car by catching it in gear? if nothing else besides the starter is bad, then yes, you should be able to catch it in gear. my buddy used to live on a hill and we used to catch his mustang in gear for a good week or so before we replaced the starter. make sure you know what you're doing before you try and catch it in gear or you'll be pushing the car a long way home. it can be done because i do it on my car sometimes.

[nightkrawler]

looked through the chiltons and haynes books quick and they say shit when it comes to the m3. i think the starter relay is with the rest of the relays under the hood in the fus box or on the side of it. there should be a sticker on the inside of the fuse box cover giving you the locations of the fuses and relays. but, if you are jumping power directly to the starter, the thick red wire that attaches to the starter(jump power to that wire), and it dosent crank, then the starter is no good. also, i think the starter solenoid is piggy backed onto the starter, could be the solenoid also. just make sure you're jumping power to the right wire! good luck.

[hotshu]

My 97 M3 had similar non start symptons as yours. After much diagnosing by 2 shops, it turned out the EWS disabled my key. Unfortunately when I bought the car from the PO, it only came with 1 key. I had to get another from the dealer & it started. Do you have another oem ignition key? If so try that.

[65Matt]

Hey, I wanted to chime in. Yesterday, my 96 328 would not start. After reading this and other threads, I performed a few tests. I was getting 11 and a half volts from the battery, and the car would not jumpstart. The headlights were not going dim when I turned the key. I ran the Peake tool and it showed me error code 'EWS signal'. I looked in the Bentley, and checked the 3 fuses that went to EWS, and one was blown. Changed the fuse and the car cranks up fine!

Now RJ, if you jumped 12 volts right to the starter, (and you jumped power to the correct terminal) the starter (or its solenoid) must be bad. You are bypassing everthing else, including the relay.

[nightkrawler]

My 97 M3 had similar non start symptons as yours. After much diagnosing by 2 shops, it turned out the EWS disabled my key. Unfortunately when I bought the car from the PO, it only came with 1 key. I had to get another from the dealer & it started. Do you have another oem ignition key? If so try that.

exact same thing happened to me, bad key, car would not crank, not even a click. also, hotsu, i dont know if your shop told you but the dealer told me never to use the bad key again, or it would screw up something and the car would not start again, i told him to throw it away. just a head's up.

"Now RJ, if you jumped 12 volts right to the starter, (and you jumped power to the correct terminal) the starter (or its solenoid) must be bad. You are bypassing everthing else, including the relay." he is exactly right. but maybe you have to jump power to the solenoid itself instead of the starter? what i find strange is that you said after the problem initally occurred, you heard the starter "clicking" one time when attempting to start it. when my key die, the only way i could get it to carnk is jump power to the starter wire coming out of the ews box. are you sure it was the starter clicking or could it have beeen a relay?