Jack Plate

[paul e]

Several years ago, Steve D, owner of the Ultimate Garage (www.ultimategarage.com), came up with what became known variously as a Jackpad, or a Jack Plate. Its purpose was this: Our cars come with 4 round plastic jack support pads, adjacent to the round cutout cookies in the rocker panel. The idea was that you would raise the car by using the OE jack by placing its shaft into the holes in the rocker panels, and that would leave the round black plastic jack pads free to hold a jack stand to support the vehicle.

The problem was always for those who liked to use a rolling type hydraulic jack. People who use this kind of jack like to place it under the round plastic jack pads under the car behind the rocker panels, but that always created a problem because now where do you put the Jack Stands?

Well, an answer was supplied by Steve D and these Jack Plates. They have a shaft at one end that looks like the shaft on the oe jack, to fit into the round cutouts in the rocker panel. The other end has a round, perhaps 3" diameter support platform. You place the shaft into the hole in the rocker panel, and you place the jack under the round platform. The point is, it allows you to use the rolling hydraulic jack, without using up the jack stand support points under the car just adjacent to the rocker panels.

Now, the piece Steve made was a quality piece.. Ive had mine for 5 years, and its never failed... I wanted to buy a gift for someone who wanted one of these, but he wanted a black one, and the only one I knew of that came in black, was being sold on Ebay. The price also was very cheap. So, I bought the one on Ebay. The point of all this is, look what happened to it after just One Use!!

When I wrote Steve, asking if I could buy one of his structurally strong ones like I bought years ago, this is what he wrote back:
"I stopped making them because most people don't care about quality any more and I cannot compete with the $29.95 versions being sold today. ". That is a real shame, and goes to show what can happen within our market if we're not careful.. We vote with our wallets. And we do have some control over which products are offered to us, and which arent. If we continue buying Price instead of Quality, this will be the result. And this result is a true anathema for our market.

[Mad Dog 20/20]

Wow. Who makes that tool? Judging by where it is bent, it looks like it was not inserted fully. You gotta push it in till you "hit bottom". :D

I'v had one from Pelican Parts for about 5 years and i've never had an issue. It sell for about $30.

How much was steve's?

[99Blk&Tan]

Bavauto has them for around $25 which I assume are good quality ones.

[paul e]

Wow. Who makes that tool? Judging by where it is bent, it looks like it was not inserted fully. You gotta push it in till you "hit bottom". :D

I'v had one from Pelican Parts for about 5 years and i've never had an issue. It sell for about $30.

How much was steve's?

It was bought on ebay from an outfit called ZDMAK SALES. Price was $29.95. I forget what Steve's price was, as it was at least 5 yrs ago.

Wow... just viewed that Pelicanparts one, pic attached (the one with the continuous shaft), and it looks Identical to my one from Steve D! It looks better than all ive viewed online. The main difference IM seeing is that on this Pelicanparts one, and Steve's, the shaft is made of one continuous piece.. Compare this to the pic of the bent one, and how the shaft shows a transistion. The BavAuto one shows a transition from a square part of the shaft, to a thinner shaft body. Ive enclosed a pic of that one also.. Thanks for the tip :)

>>Bavauto has them for around $25 which I assume are good quality ones<<

First, if you go to the site, youll see they are $29, and not $25.. And second, why on earth would you 'assume' they are of good quality? I just showed you how careful you have to be, and how steve, who made the only real quality one in the market that IM aware of had to stop making them because of the inferior ones which people were buying. .I showed you what happens when you buy an inferior one. And, I showed how the key seems to be in the shaft design, and how the Pelican one looks just like Steve's, which is the only one I would endorse. Please, dont make assumptions on these; look what happens when you do! Lastly, look at the two pics, one after the other.. THere is no question which is of the better quality, and more likely to outlast the other.

[hellrot325]

I don't get these anyway...if you are using a floor jack to get your car on stands, why not use the jacking points under the car?

[AntiHero]

I made mine from a broken old jack and a round peice of steel. This is a must have for lowered cars!

[///3oris]

Judging by where it is bent, it looks like it was not inserted fully. You gotta push it in till you "hit bottom". :D

You can't insert it fully unless you want the jack to scratch your car at least that's how it is with my Craftsman Aluminum Jack.


I don't get these anyway...if you are using a floor jack to get your car on stands, why not use the jacking points under the car?

How would you jack by the jack points when you can't even slide under the front bumper? The only way I can (and have) done that is by first jacking up one side, putting a jack stand under and then jacking up from the front.

Boris

[Mad Dog 20/20]

You can't insert it fully unless you want the jack to scratch your car at least that's how it is with my Craftsman Aluminum Jack.

Boris


So I was right. :stickoutt

You HAVE to insert it fully or you are creating too much leverage on too little metal and you get the bends. Its prolly a decent jack plate - just improperly used.

[///3oris]

So I was right. :stickoutt

You HAVE to insert it fully or you are creating too much leverage on too little metal and you get the bends. Its prolly a decent jack plate - just improperly used.

I'd say improperly built then... it should stick out further.

Boris

[paul e]

I'd say improperly built then... it should stick out further.

Boris


Im quite sure that the Steve D one doesnt bend, without having to be flush all the way in. And insofar as the Pelican one looks identical to the Steve D one, Id give that one a shot. I wouldnt trust the one i used, or the Bav Auto one, because the shafts are thinner.

[gasolina]

I have been looking for one of those plates too. I was about to order the one from pelican, but they charge 10 bucks for shipping! So 40+ bucks for a slight convenience. I opted to use the crossmembers as jacking points. :(

[hellrot325]

How would you jack by the jack points when you can't even slide under the front bumper? The only way I can (and have) done that is by first jacking up one side, putting a jack stand under and then jacking up from the front. Boris My car is not lowered but I have a Craftsman jack that easily fits under the car front or back and is two pumps to full extension or until it makes contact. With my old jack I would use ramps...or I've seen people build little ramps to get the car high enough to slip a jack under there. Easier than jacking the car up four times to get it on stands. I could see these if you were jacking up just one wheel, but I just use my floor jack to lift under the jacking puck and back it up with a jackstand.... :dunno

[Mad Dog 20/20]

I'd say improperly built then... it should stick out further.

Boris

They are all made like that.
The pad on the jack and the pad on the jack plate only need about 50% overlap. This gives the jack plenty of clearance.

[Mad Dog 20/20]

My car is lowered but I have a Craftsman jack that easily fits under the car front or back and is two pumps to full extension or until it makes contact. With my old jack I would use ramps...or I've seen people build little ramps to get the car high enough to slip a jack under there. Easier than jacking the car up four times to get it on stands. I could see these if you were jacking up just one wheel, but I just use my floor jack to lift under the jacking puck and back it up with a jackstand.... :dunno

Its really just a matter of convenience, especially when at the track without a creeper, multiple jacks, etc. For $30, a jack plate makes it very easy to see exactly where the jack pad is making contact. Without it, you are laying on the (greasy, dirty, wet?) ground trying to make sure your are jacking off of the puck or front support (which is very difficult, if not impossible, if you have a lowered track car). Its also very easy to just toss a jackstand under the puck once the car is in the air - for a safe/secure work environment, or for then taking your jack around to the front to jack from the center support ,which is now easily accesible - to get the whole front on stands.

Its just makes things easier. A $30 no-brainer.

[99Blk&Tan]

And second, why on earth would you 'assume' they are of good quality?

I would trust Bavauto more than a random ebay purchase. They are a good company and sell good products. Since your Steve friend doesn't make them anymore I was just posting another source. I don't have one so I can't vouch for quality.

[GroovinPickle]

I've used the Pelican jack pad probably two dozen times without any problems, and I very rarely (if ever) insert it all the way. I put the pad in and then put my jack at about a 45 degree angle to the side of the car so I still have room to slide a jack stand under the car where the factory puck is (although lately I've removed the puck before doing so, as I've heard several warnings about putting a non-flat jack stand on the puck).

In short, the Pelican pad seems to be a quality piece.

[RLM]

The problem is that the place for the jack pad on the car isn't the strongest. After repeated use the metal insert can fatigue and crap out. I'd rather use a low jack, like an AC hydraulic and a 2x10 under a wheel to get to the front cross member and put the whole front up at once and then place jack stands and leave the jack at the member for a fail safe.

Just my 2.37 cents adjusted for F/X

[mlytle]

Im quite sure that the Steve D one doesnt bend, without having to be flush all the way in. And insofar as the Pelican one looks identical to the Steve D one, Id give that one a shot. I wouldnt trust the one i used, or the Bav Auto one, because the shafts are thinner.

i have a steve d one. the pelican parts one does not look like it. the steve d original is much stronger construction.

these things are great for jacking up a lowered car or for putting the rear on jackstands.

definitely do not want to only insert it part way. jack point on the car is not designed for the extra leverage.

[BJO]

i sold my steve d jackplate a few weeks ago. it was a nice and well made. i stopped using it since my AC DK20 and HF Al jack are low enough to lift my car.

[///3oris]

My car is lowered but I have a Craftsman jack that easily fits under the car front or back and is two pumps to full extension or until it makes contact. With my old jack I would use ramps...or I've seen people build little ramps to get the car high enough to slip a jack under there. Easier than jacking the car up four times to get it on stands. I could see these if you were jacking up just one wheel, but I just use my floor jack to lift under the jacking puck and back it up with a jackstand.... :dunno

The jack fits easily under my car too, but what do I do if I want to put a jackstand on the same puck that I jacked it up by?

I don't have ramps my car was never high enough to roll on them. Anyway, to date the best jack has been the stock BMW jack... anyone have a spare? or two? :D

Boris

[hellrot325]

The jack fits easily under my car too, but what do I do if I want to put a jackstand on the same puck that I jacked it up by?

I don't have ramps my car was never high enough to roll on them. Anyway, to date the best jack has been the stock BMW jack... anyone have a spare? or two? :D

Boris Don't jack via the puck, jack via the crossmemebers. The only time I would ever use the trunk jack was if I had a flat out on the road...otherwise it stays were it is, and belongs.

[///3oris]

Don't jack via the puck, jack via the crossmemebers. The only time I would ever use the trunk jack was if I had a flat out on the road...otherwise it stays were it is, and belongs.

Once again, I can't jack by crossmembers if I can't reach them!!!

Boris

[hellrot325]

Once again, I can't jack by crossmembers if I can't reach them!!!

Boris Then why did you write "The jack fits easily under my car too" :rolleyes

[///3oris]

Then why did you write "The jack fits easily under my car too" :rolleyes

To lift the car by the hockey pucks on the sides! Crap, I f'd up... the guy I quoted meant by crossmembers.... "MAH BAD YO!"

Seriously... sorry :embarrasm

Boris

[mlytle]

Don't jack via the puck, jack via the crossmemebers. The only time I would ever use the trunk jack was if I had a flat out on the road...otherwise it stays were it is, and belongs.
concur about the trunk jack. i can't get to the crossmembers on a lowered car. use the plate to jack up the side of the street car to put jackstands under the rear puck and front frame rail. race car is easy. wayo to low for crossmembers, but so stiff with the cage that either puck takes the whole side of the car up no problem.

i need a full car lift....;)

[MTRD3]

I've used the Pelican jack pad probably two dozen times without any problems, and I very rarely (if ever) insert it all the way. I put the pad in and then put my jack at about a 45 degree angle to the side of the car so I still have room to slide a jack stand under the car where the factory puck is.

First, I know this is an old thread, but I'm a proponent of using the search function to find a topic that has already been opened instead of posting something new.

I was recently considering buying a Jack plate piece like this from ECS because my car is now lowered enough that I can no longer get the jack easily under the front bumper (even with the use of wood) and in place under the crossmember to jack the car up in manner that leaves the place for the jack stands free of obstruction and easily able to be put in place and lowered onto. This jack pad plate seemed to be the solution for me because I figured that if I had the hydraulic jack running parallel to the car or at a 45 degree angle, while using the jack plate piece in the factory side skirt insert, I could jack the car up and still have enough place to slide a jack stand into place properly and lower the car onto it.

The thing is I wanted to do that on both sides to get the front up onto jackstands on both sides. This is where I forsee a problem that I was hoping someone with one of these jack plates could affirm or negate - When you use the jack plate in the side skirt to raise one side of the car and lower it onto the jackstand in its designated place, are you able to go over to the other side of the car and repeat the same in order to have the car, in the end, up on two jackstands/with the front in the air? (or rear, whatever you're working on). Is doing this part of the designed acceptible practise with these jack plates or are they only ever supposed to be used for raising one wheel or corner of the car up? Is the car, once up on the one jackstand at an angle that it obstructs you from being able to put the jack plate into the side skirt on the other side safely while still having the clearance for the hydraulic jack to go underneath?

I never plan to use the plate to support the car in the air, but do often put either the entire front up in the air or entire rear at the same time. That means being able to place the front or rear jackstands both. I'm thinking going with a lowered hydraulich jack under the crossmember may in the end still be a better solution because once jacked up in the air BOTH jackstands can be put in place at one time and eleviates any of the issues that come to mind about doing it one side at a time with the plate. I could be wrong though, hence the question put forth.

T.I.A. for any inputs, always good to find pretty much everything can be found with proper use of the search function.

[RRSperry]

Just a thought...

I wouldn't use that jack holes for anything other than an emergency. The receiver tubes are not solidly welded to the unibody, they are tacked. I've seen some serious deflections on cars that have lived in a rough winter climate.

I have 3 jacks, (and a lift in the garage), but what I do/did, is/was, jack one side of the car with the AL racing jack so that I could get the full size jack on the front crossmember and go from there. Then jack the rear.

[Jrrrrrrr]

This jack pad plate seemed to be the solution for me because I figured that if I had the hydraulic jack running parallel to the car or at a 45 degree angle, while using the jack plate piece in the factory side skirt insert, I could jack the car up and still have enough place to slide a jack stand into place properly and lower the car onto it.

The thing is I wanted to do that on both sides to get the front up onto jackstands on both sides. This is where I forsee a problem that I was hoping someone with one of these jack plates could affirm or negate - When you use the jack plate in the side skirt to raise one side of the car and lower it onto the jackstand in its designated place, are you able to go over to the other side of the car and repeat the same in order to have the car, in the end, up on two jackstands/with the front in the air? (or rear, whatever you're working on). Is doing this part of the designed acceptible practise with these jack plates or are they only ever supposed to be used for raising one wheel or corner of the car up? Is the car, once up on the one jackstand at an angle that it obstructs you from being able to put the jack plate into the side skirt on the other side safely while still having the clearance for the hydraulic jack to go underneath?

I have the Pelican jack pad and have done what you describe several times. I don't advocate lifting one side of the car while the opposite is on jackstands -- even though I have done so. Typically, I use the jack parallel to the car technique to lift just one side. With use of a jackpad, uou have enough room to place a jackstand under a hockey puck if you position the jack parallel to the car

The problem with the jackpad is that it can very easilly slip off your floorjack once the car starts getting high enough to actually place a jackstand under the hockey puck. Lifting one side of the car while the opposite is on a jackstand is also a good way for the car to slip off that jackstand -- I've had several near misses over the years.

These days, I just use the jackpad to get one corner of the front end high enough to get a separate jack under the front subframe.

Even a slammed car should have enough height in the back to get a low-profile jack under the rear subframe.

[Chokingdogs]

I have the Pelican jack pad and have done what you describe several times. I don't advocate lifting one side of the car while the opposite is on jackstands -- even though I have done so. Typically, I use the jack parallel to the car technique to lift just one side. With use of a jackpad, uou have enough room to place a jackstand under a hockey puck if you position the jack parallel to the car

The problem with the jackpad is that it can very easilly slip off your floorjack once the car starts getting high enough to actually place a jackstand under the hockey puck. Lifting one side of the car while the opposite is on a jackstand is also a good way for the car to slip off that jackstand -- I've had several near misses over the years.

These days, I just use the jackpad to get one corner of the front end high enough to get a separate jack under the front subframe.

Even a slammed car should have enough height in the back to get a low-profile jack under the rear subframe.


Mine is not lowered, and there isn't a whole lot of room to get the car up when using a floor jack under the rear subframe.

The jack that I ( have to ) use is a Craftsman 1.5 ton aluminum job, my 2 ton is too big, and by the time the jack is under the X-member the handle has about a half inch of travel. It's a series of say 15 pumps before the rear is high enough that there's enough travel to get the ass end up faster.

It's really NBD though, just takes a little more time and effort, I'd classify it as a minor nuisance.