Brake rotors from HELL!

[Shark Bait]

OK, so I found the brake problem, not a problem I guess, physics explains it all. When the brake shoe is gone, you get a gawd-awful racket from the brake. No problem here, understand that just fine.

Now that I understand that, how do I get the friggin' rotor off! I've pulled the caliper, removed the lock bolt, but still tight as a 14 year old virgin! (OK, so I live in CA, it could be 12). Does this fall under the "get a bigger hammer" category, or am I missing something? These are the rear by the way.

Also, only a brake sensor on the passenger side? No wiring, nothing on the driver's side, just a brake line. I did find the sensor on the passenger side and it has the insulation worn off, but is still intact. How inportant is the isulation? These look like they would be rather easy to fabricate, anyone done that?

Thanks for any info.

[JAlfredPrufrock]

When you say brake shoe, you are talking drum brakes right? If so there is no rotor to remove...

[JAlfredPrufrock]

Also I don't know what the e24 is like, but my E34 has brake sensors both driver's side front and passenger side rear.

They are like $5 new at the stealer.

[Shark Bait]

When you say brake shoe, you are talking drum brakes right? If so there is no rotor to remove...


By shoe, I mean the meat of the pad. These are four wheel disc brakes. Rear brakes are just these little wimpy things, but boy can they make alot of noise.

[Shark Bait]

Also I don't know what the e24 is like, but my E34 has brake sensors both driver's side front and passenger side rear.

They are like $5 new at the stealer.


$5 for the $tealer, or 3 cents worth of wire? And not having to make the trip.

[JAlfredPrufrock]

OK so you simply want to get the rotor off?

I'm unexperienced with e24s in general but I'm assuming they have a fairly similar brake setup to the e34.

So there is nothing obstructing the rotor, correct? Got the caliper off and everything...

On my e34 there is one bolt that sets the rotor in place. It has an input for an allen wrench and sits between the studs that hold the lug nuts in place when the wheel is on. I know it sounds stupid for me to ask but did you take this bolt out?

If there is nothing left holding the rotor in place... it's most likely just rust/corrosion holding it there. I'd spring for a rubber mallet and give it a few good whacks.

[JAlfredPrufrock]

$5 for the $tealer, or 3 cents worth of wire? And not having to make the trip.

Your call. :dunno

[ebantegui]

Each rotor has a small allen screw that holds it in place.
http://bavauto.com/shop.asp

search for this part number

Part # : 34 11 1 123 072

[bumbavfan]

Here you go step by step:

1. You must remove the socket head bolt, I think you need a 5mm allen wrench to do the job.
2. Make sure the emergency brake is not engaged. Check to see that you can rotate the rotor rather freely. If the rotor does turn freely, and the rotor is not comming off, that means it is being held in place by rust or by a tight adjustment on the emergency brake shoes. From the back side of the rotor, hit the rotor at one spot with a rubber mallet, then go to another spot 180 deg apart and hit the back side of the rotor there. Alternate back and forth, you should eventually see movement of the rotor, and repeat until you get it off.
3. If you can not rotate the rotor, and the emergency brake is not engaged, then you've got a problem. Probably a cable seized to its sheath. I'll stop here for now.

As far as why one sensor per side, I believe the theory behind the design was that both sides should wear about the same, left to right. Any real world deviation in wear left vs right is probably addressed in how much of an early warning you get when the sensor is tripped. For $5, I would replace it.

BTW why are you removing the rotors in the first place??

[Shark Bait]

Here you go step by step:

1. You must remove the socket head bolt, I think you need a 5mm allen wrench to do the job.
2. Make sure the emergency brake is not engaged. Check to see that you can rotate the rotor rather freely. If the rotor does turn freely, and the rotor is not comming off, that means it is being held in place by rust or by a tight adjustment on the emergency brake shoes. From the back side of the rotor, hit the rotor at one spot with a rubber mallet, then go to another spot 180 deg apart and hit the back side of the rotor there. Alternate back and forth, you should eventually see movement of the rotor, and repeat until you get it off.
3. If you can not rotate the rotor, and the emergency brake is not engaged, then you've got a problem. Probably a cable seized to its sheath. I'll stop here for now.

As far as why one sensor per side, I believe the theory behind the design was that both sides should wear about the same, left to right. Any real world deviation in wear left vs right is probably addressed in how much of an early warning you get when the sensor is tripped. For $5, I would replace it.

BTW why are you removing the rotors in the first place??

Item 1 -- Got the bolt.

Item 2 -- I'll have to check the adjustment on the shoes - I Have noticed that the e-brake is a bit weak, but that and corrosion could be the ticket.

Item 3 -- Rotor moves, but is tight on the hub.

Interesting theory on the sensors, makes sense.

Removing the rotor because they went metal to metal, big scar in the rotor, gotta be replaced. The rear brakes were gone when I bought the car, after a week, I'm just now getting to checking the rear brakes and lookie what I found! :confused

Worked on this last night, today with some better light the whole thing could become clear.

[dm635]

i would try soaking with a good penatrant like pb blaster and just try working it off.my fronts are stuck on and soaking.one of the bolts were stripped on mine and the head will have to be drilled off.i put the 'ol pb around the hub and into the lug holes,they've been on a while.haven't even gotten to the rears yet.

[funkmasta]

If youre not saving the rotor, take a BFH and take a few good thwacks at it.

as far as the sensors, the Right front and left rear are the two fastest wearing brakes out of each set. I dont remember why. I initially found this out years ago, when I was watching someone perform a pre purchase inspection. He checked only the right front and the left rear, and I was confused. He said that it was because the RF wears slightly faster than the LF and vise versa for the rear. :dunno:
Absolutely get a new sensor on there, it is cheaper to replace a sensor and brake pads than it is to change brake pads and rotors ;) I think the last one I bought was $15 for an E36

As for them being the rears, you could have overextended brake shoes for the parking brake. and there really isnt anything you can do about it, you will need to replace them if they are that bad anyway. --> back to the BFH method.

[bumbavfan]

Yeah, I agree with the BFH theory if at this point you have'nt gotten any where. The best would be if you could get a buddy to help you so that you could hit from opposing sides simultaneously.

I have to disagree with the guy that says the left fronts and the right rears wear out quicker. This guy is just pulling your leg. Of the many brake jobs I've done, I have never seen one side wear significantly more than the other. Unless.. maybe the guy was talking about oval track racing or NASCAR. Nope, that would mean only one side wears more, not opposing corners. Just my opinion..

[funkmasta]

by the way, I wouldnt use a rubber mallet. If you use a solid metal hammer, it will be more jarring. Youre not saving the rotor, remember?

Bring a set of ear plugs.

It should only take 3 or 4 hard hits.

[jklnhyde]

...14 year-old virgin...? I knew Califas was liberal, but... :devillook

[Shark Bait]

The roughly equal pad wear theory probably explains the lack of sensors on two wheels. And yes, I've heard the left-front, right-rear theory before, holds true for jags and triumps too. In my case, I'm the exception, left-rear went to metal before the right-rear got to the sensor. Cheap fix though.

Thanks for the info....