Car still ticks.

[GEN3RIC]

Had Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-30.

What are suggestions for oil that has a better Viscosity Index than Mobil 1 ?

Its not a bent valve.. if it were the car would shake and hardly run and it is fine. It is probably just that the oil is way too thin and isn't providing the right thickness of lubricant between alloys.

If nobody has any good suggestions I"m gong to drain the oil I just put in there and put some Redline (weight suggestions?) in.

What are the repercussions of using an all natural Dinosaur oil? I'd like to hear the technical side of this.

Real information please.

[NeedM3info]

Had Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-30.

What are suggestions for oil that has a better Viscosity Index than Mobil 1 ?

Its not a bent valve.. if it were the car would shake and hardly run and it is fine. It is probably just that the oil is way too thin and isn't providing the right thickness of lubricant between alloys.

If nobody has any good suggestions I"m gong to drain the oil I just put in there and put some Redline (weight suggestions?) in.

What are the repercussions of using an all natural Dinosaur oil? I'd like to hear the technical side of this.

Real information please.

I have the same problem using mobil 1 5w30 and i added a whole extra quart before the last auto-x, it still ticks sometimes when i start it. I think the oil is just too thin on startup or something. Also i noticed if i didn't let the fuel pump prime all the way before starting the car it wouldn't tick. Just stick the key in and turn it to crank the engine really fast, strange isn't it?

[GEN3RIC]

I know a lot of people get the tick...

But I drove for over 2 hours and it ticked horrendously loud. No letting down.

Engine has 23,000 miles on it.

[Inv3ctiv3]

I went to an auto-x this weekend and my car started to tick VERY loud after my second session but luckily my mechanic was there auto-xing as well, he said it was just a valve tick and happens when the lifters are not getting enough oil and will go away eventually. But from what I have noticed all E36s have that tick.

[GEN3RIC]

Mine was completely silent until I changed my oil. Now it is SO loud I am embarrassed to drive it.

All I can think is that normal S52s that like 5w30 are different from my S52 which was rebuilt, and perhaps clearanced differently than stock by TC Kline's engine builder Allen Jensen.

I keep meaning to call up TC Kline but by the time I actually get some freetime it is too late. I could probably figure out what oil to use to quiet it down.. It started when I put the Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w30 in. I was told Mobil 1 Synthetic is shit. I was also told 5w30 is too light and is thinning out. Well I dont know.

[souroull]

i remember someone having this problem and it turned out to be loose spark plugs... how much oil did you use? is it topped?

[JClark]

Mine did it before on a 10w30. Now I'm on Mobil 1 5w30 at about a half of a quart over the fill line. I was the only E36 at my last autox that wasnt ticking at all.

How much oil are you running? Try adding a little over the fill line.

[GotBHP?]

You can run up to a quart over the maximum shown on the dipstick, and should probably do so if you do any sort of hard driving. Mine had the lifter tick the first week that I got the car, I added oil and its never made noise since. I run M1 15-50 btw.

[BJO]

when mine was ticking continously, it turned out to be a lifter sticking. i had all 24 changed out and mine are silent until I do a few auto-x runs. that may or may not be your issue. another fix could be going to a thicker weight oil. I've found that using syntec 5w-50 delayed the onset of ticking and it went away faster.

[JUNGLISTluder]

the owner's manual recommends 15w-40 for all weather driving. I used to use 5w-30 and realized its just way to thin for these motors. Ever since switching to M1 15w-50, no ticking.

[GEN3RIC]

I have a diamond-shaped cage w/baffles welded in by the oil pickup to prevent oil starvation under hard cornering for track use.

Everybody recommends different oil weights and different solutions so Im just trying to get a feel for what the general concensus says.

I am going to go with a heavier weight this week, probably 15w50 Syntec. If that doesn't solve the problem, I am going to tear apart the valvetrain and see if I don't have a nasty lifter that sticks.

Keep comments coming.

[Mantic]

I don't know, I run 5w-30 Mobile 1 with no problems. If you want to read about oil just do a search there are hundreds of threads on it and some contain alot of great information.

[GEN3RIC]

Ive read quite a bit, all good info, no doubt. But none seem to really fit the situation exactly.

It's always something else.

[JUNGLISTluder]

I don't know, I run 5w-30 Mobile 1 with no problems. If you want to read about oil just do a search there are hundreds of threads on it and some contain alot of great information.

if you want to read about oil, read your manual.

[GEN3RIC]

Just read in this thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=265292

that Mobil 1 5w30 isn't good.



5) Note that Mobil 1 0w-30, 5w-30, and 10w-30 are NOT ACEA A3 or BMW LL approved oils. This is because they all are thin 30 weight oils (approximately 9.8-10 CST@ 100c) and have HTHS of approximately 3.1. Mobil 1 0w-40 and 15w-50 are A3 rated and the Ow-40 is BMW LL-01 approved. For 99% of climates and users 0w-40 or 5w-40 is the appropriate grade. There are some 0w-30 and 5w-30 oils (like the BMW 5w-30) that are forumlated on the heavier end of the 30 weight scale and are accordingly rated A3. These oils will work well also. LOOK FOR THAT ACEA A3 rating. If the oil doesn't have it, pass on it.


So in other words, I bought a non ACEA A3-rated oil and it is probably why I am experiencing ticking because of the thin nature of Mobil 1's oil. I could go with BMW 5w30 and be fine.

[Mantic]

Ive read quite a bit, all good info, no doubt. But none seem to really fit the situation exactly.

It's always something else.

That's true but it's also because no one on here really knows. People use what they seem to think works the best. In other words they just have a general idea. Any of the top brand synthetics are miles a head of what we used to use. My car is a street car, sure i drive the hell out of it sometimes but it's not a race car so my oil temps don't get that high so i feel 5w-30 is enough.

[GEN3RIC]

I believe I will purchase 0w40 Mobil 1 Synthetic. As far as I know it is ACEA A3 rated and is thick enough at operating temperatures to still work.

[Mantic]

All I can say is try it out. Report back and let us know if it solved your problem.

[GEN3RIC]

Will do, dont know when Ill have time for an oil change t hough. I work too much.

[Mantic]

Will do, dont know when Ill have time for an oil change t hough. I work too much.

Do you know where you can buy the Mobile 1 0w-40? I just bought 10qts of 5w30 and i'd be willing to return it and try the other stuff if i can get it locally.

[passblayer]

Do you know where you can buy the Mobile 1 0w-40? I just bought 10qts of 5w30 and i'd be willing to return it and try the other stuff if i can get it locally.

I buy my Mobil1 0w-40 from Kragen or Autozone.

[GEN3RIC]

i kind of wonder if maybe walmart has it... on their website they dont have a car maintenance section though, the bastards.

im going to stop there after work if theyve got it im going to change it tonight. while im at it im going to remove the CDV and put new studs in my exhaust manifold / track pipe flange.

['96 E36 M3]

At my last oil change I used Mobil1 10w-30 and have found that a) I burn a lot of oil and b) my engine is louder than it has been in the past. After reading a number of posts I determined to go with a different brand that is ACEA-3 rated. I purchased <strong>Lubro Moly 5w-40</strong> from <a href="http://www.bavarianautosport.com/shop.asp">Bavarian Autosport</a>. They were running a special $24.95 for 5 liters.

I'll change replace the Mobil1 and see how she runs.

[GEN3RIC]

So I need 7 quarts of this stuff, how many quarts is in 5 litres?

Pretty much a gallon IIRC but me and the metric system mix like oil and water do.

I would buy online to get Lubro Moly since its good, but I can't wait any longer. I have a fear that this ticking noise is somehow damaging my engine and I wont drive it like this any longer than I absolutely have to.

[M3325]

Definitely run thicker oil to eliminate ticking. Our engines are designed to run thick oil. Don't put oil designed for hondas like mobil 1 5W30.

1 US gallon= 3.78L
we need 6.5L = 6.9quarts

[paul e]

>>What are suggestions for oil that has a better Viscosity Index than Mobil 1 <<

Eric, Check this thread out:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=265292&page=1&pp=25

['96 E36 M3]

So I need 7 quarts of this stuff, how many quarts is in 5 litres?

Pretty much a gallon IIRC but me and the metric system mix like oil and water do.

I would buy online to get Lubro Moly since its good, but I can't wait any longer. I have a fear that this ticking noise is somehow damaging my engine and I wont drive it like this any longer than I absolutely have to.

Actually, you'll need 6.86 quarts. :)

Something you might not be aware of, Google does offer some conversion calculations from their search engine. Type "6.5 liters in quarts", click search and you'll get the answer. Pretty cool stuff.

[CarbonBlkE36]

no matter what yall say, u still havn't tried the lubro moly 5-40 and can't vouch on the quality of this oil. i was running 15-40 and had the tick daily. but after i got a new vanos unit, and some oil leaks, i switched to the l.m. 5-40 and my car feels faster and better gas mileage. and NO TICK

[JeffCupino]

Ok... i might sound like a noob here... and maybe i am but what does the ticking actually sound like? cause im not even sure if my car ticks or not! currently im running 5w-30 and it seems to be running fine. it just got me wondering because most of the people running 5w-30 they were ticking and im not! (well i dont think i am) well thats all im just wondering!

JEFF

[JeffCupino]

and another thing... i only put 6 quarts in my car! and it falls higher than half way between the fill line and the low line. should i add more? sorry to raid this thread...

JEFF

[Balthazarr]

ticking sounds like it is ...a rapid tapping,but more like ticking than tapping.:laugh

Higher pitch than a tap.

I use Castrol Syntec Blend 10w-40 and no more ticking, in fact I think prior to the switch and used GTX 20w-50...really don't remember, but I had ticking with Valvoline 15w-40 before that and I have never used 5w-30 in this car.

[Balthazarr]

and another thing... i only put 6 quarts in my car! and it falls higher than half way between the fill line and the low line. should i add more? sorry to raid this thread...

JEFF

Just add another 1/2 qt to get you above the max line. Might even take a little more.
I put 7 in mine with new filter.

[GEN3RIC]

Im glad people are getting into this thread don't worry about hijacking.

I went to Walmart and they only had one quart of the Mobil 1 0w-40, I was glad to see the ACEA A3 rating and the "European Formulated" phrase on it. I bought it anyways. The guy thought I was going to try to do an oil change with 1 quart. I died laughing at this.

I went to Target.. realized they have NO auto section. :confused

Told them to go blow themselves even though they were female and left. (joke)

Went to Checker and they had EXACTLY 6 quarts (one case) of 0w30 Mobil 1. IT WAS A SIGN!

I was suddenly glad I picked up the stray quart of oil.. I will change it out tomorrow night after 7 pm and tell you how it goes. :D

[KermitM3]

I had this same problem - drove me nuts. I finally fixed it!

Car = '95 M3 w>130k miles
Oil = 8 qts Castrol Syntec 5w50 every change
Environment = Arizona (HOT ASS SUMMERS)

The fix:
I used to do the "extra quart" of oil thing, which worked for a while, but eventually became ineffective. The final solution was a good old-fashioned american remedy. Two oil changes ago I drained out ~1 quart of oil, then poured in 1 quart of Dexron III ATF (VERY high detergent). I then ran the car for about 10 minutes. Then I completed the oil change the regular way with new Castrol and Mahl filter. Voila! No more ticking noise - even after hard driving, which used to be the worst!

Hope this helps...

P.S. I tried Mobil 1 in my car once and it did not seem to care for it. I stick with the Syntec now.

[Balthazarr]

The ATF approach if all else fails.
Probably a good idea for high mileage cars regardless of lifter noise or not.

[paul e]

what does the atf 'do' when poured into the crankcase? Why does this seem to help?

[KermitM3]

what does the atf 'do' when poured into the crankcase? Why does this seem to help?


It acts like the detergent you put in your dishwasher. It cleans the deposits and crud that are inside your engine. The lifter noise is cause by one or more lifters not being able to fill and discharge completely during its cycle. The ATF helps to clean out any junk that may be in the lifter. It also cleans the entire drive train, oil passages, oil pump, etc.. Then all of the stuff goes into the oil and is washed out during the oil change.

[BJO]

dunno if this is true or not, but here's a page that does not recommend the ATF in the engine for rotary motors.
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/atftrick.htm

[ChewToy]

Guys.. when you hear the "ticking" with the car in neutral, push the clutch in and see if it makes any difference and report back.

[KermitM3]

dunno if this is true or not, but here's a page that does not recommend the ATF in the engine for rotary motors.
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/atftrick.htm


Hmmm....
1) BMW's don't have rotary motors
2) That "trick" calls for putting ATF in the combustion chamber - not in the crankcase oil. This is not the same thing as what I described.

[BJO]

Hmmm....
1) BMW's don't have rotary motors
2) That "trick" calls for putting ATF in the combustion chamber - not in the crankcase oil. This is not the same thing as what I described.

true, but what about the seals and internal rubber parts? i am just wondering if there are any side effects to putting atf in the engine.

[buckwilly]

I run 5w30 mobile 1 synth every 3K miles. I have 110K on my car with no ticking. But I don't take my car to the track and I don't stay at redline very much.

[GEN3RIC]

I have that too its because I have the wrong tranmission oil in. LTW flywheel rattle sucks. Heavier gear oil will work great.

My ticking is constant.

[black_box]

I'm overfilled with mobil1 15-50 and still get some ticking after autocross runs. Someone this weekend mentioned that he got ticking when the oil was getting old, but mine has only 4k on it (unless autocross "ages" the oil faster?). I'm going to try and change to mobil1 0-40 before my last autocross to see if that helps. I also don't want to use the 15-50 for cold startups in the winter, below 60F, it takes a couple extra chugs.

[Bernman]

I had lots of what sounded like VANOS noise (marbles in a can) through three oil changes of Mobile 1. After switching to Castrol Syntec the marble noise has gone away. Even at the DE I attended, I did not have the post race lifter noise that I previously had after hard mountain (street) driving.

Oil is like religion to some people so I definately am not looking for a debate. Just lending my oil related noise experiences :)

[Mantic]

How much did you pay for the 0w-40? I take it's not available in 5qrt jugs?

[black_box]

walmart is the only place i've seen the 5-qt containers, and they only had 5-30 and 15-50 :(

[Mantic]

The only place that has it around here is Autozone and they only had 5qrts. Wal*Mart didn't have 0w-40.

[GEN3RIC]

I paid close $4.99 a quart at Checker Autoparts for the 0w30 Mobil 1 EUROSPEC (:laugh)


So I changed the oil out and I had no tick on cold start up, but after it warmed up I developed a tick. This went away after 10 minutes and I haven't gotten it to tick yet, and I also haven't driven it hard.

Another thing to mention: the ticking I heard was almost definitely coming from the starter/flywheel/transmission area *underneath* the car. It comes and goes on it's own schedule even though I've asked it to never return...

[Mantic]

Well i've managed to get 7qts of the 0w-40 and plan on changing my oil in the next day or two.

['96 E36 M3]

I received the Lubro Moly 5w-40 from Bavarian Autosport today and replaced the Mobil 1 10w-30. I must say that the difference between the two oils are like night and day. I took her out for a spin to fill the oil filter and got on the accelerator once the engine was sufficiently warmed up. I have to say that the engine seemed to pull much better through the higher RPMs - far better than when I had the Mobil for lubrication. I'm sure much of the difference can be attributed to my "feeling better" that the proper oil grade was installed and that I wasn't doing any more damage to my engine. Of course it was my stupidity for cheaping out with the 10w-30 bulk buy to save some cash. I won't be doing that again. Hopefully I haven't shaved too many miles off the life of the engine - I only ran the Mobil for 2k miles.

Anyway, I'll post back when I've got 2k on the Lubro Moly and report my experience. So far, so good.

[black_box]

I just got the last 7 qts of mobil1 0-40 from my local wal-mart, I believe it was $3.77 each. I'll be changing oil before my autoX this saturday, we'll see how it does.

[paul e]

$3.77? are u serious? I just shelled out $4.99 per qt of this stuff.. And i bought 2 cases of it! Your price would have saved me 20 bucks! Bah.... Thats a great price for Mobil 1 0W-40. Oh well, at least my price is Still cheaper than what I had been paying for Amsoil which I had been using.

[buckwilly]

I don't know what you guys are talking about, I know quite a few people who run their M's on 5w30 Mobil 1 Synthetic and never had any problems. I have been running it for two years without any issues. But running your oil for over 5K per oil change is just stupid in the first place, IMO. These forums are so rediculous some times...also I have two local BMW garages that use Mobil 1 synth and strongly recommend it.

[paul e]

>>But running your oil for over 5K per oil change is just stupid in the first place, IMO<<

Ok.. and you know this because, um, Oil Analysis told you so? Are you aware that, with a filter change half way through the srvc lite cycle, its possible to run many synthetics through the complete ~9000 mile E36 M3 src cycle with virtually ZEro wear on engine parts, and Zero degradation of Oil Quality??

['96 E36 M3]

These forums are so rediculous some times...also I have two local BMW garages that use Mobil 1 synth and strongly recommend it.

Hmmm. Sorry my experience doesn't match with your experience. Nevertheless, I'm not sure how that translates into the forums being ridiculous. Bottom line for me is the 10w-30 burned like hell and in general made the car sound quite crappy. Switching to the LM 5w-40 alleviated those problems - for me anyway. I'm glad your Mobil 1 experience suits you though.

[Casebrius]

revival - I'm afraid to put ATF in my crank case but have heard of guys using Rotella (diesal crank-case oil) in for a wash cycle. There are also products made specially for "washing" your engine. Has anyone ever tried them? There is also a product made specially for removing lifter tick (imagine its just a detergant) called CD2 that was talked about on this board months ago. I tried it for awhile before a change and it did quiet the engine down some.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148562&highlight=valves+ticking+cd2
Random CD2 Google results:
http://forums.vmag.com/suvrodeo0300/messages/9214.html
http://www.f150online.com/forums/archive/topic/8546-1.html (y2k post)